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iV  S  T  O  R  1  A 


V 


OR 


ANECIXVrF.S    OF   AN   ENTERPRISE 


BKTOVD    THE 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


liY    WASHINGTON    IRVING. 


IN    TWO    VOLUMES. 

VOL.  I. 


PIIILVDELPHIA: 
CAREY.   LEA,   &   BLANCHARD. 


r 

;  7- 

y.l 


INTRODUCTION. 


In  the  course  of  occasional  visits  to  Canada  many  years 
since,  I  became  intimately  acquainted  with  some  of  the 
principal  partners  of  the  great  North- West  Fur  Company, 
who  at  that  time  lived  in  genial  style  at  Montreal,  anc 
kept  almost  open  house  for  the  stranger.     At  their  hospi- 
table boards  I  occasionally  met  with  partners,  and  clerks, 
and  hardy  fur  traders  from  the  interior  posts ;  men  who 
had  passed  years  remote  from  civilized   society,  among 
distant    and    savage    tribes,   and   who    had    wonders    to 
recount   of   their    wide    and    wild    peregrinations,    their 
hunting  exploits,  and  their  perilous  adventures  and  hair- 
breadth escapes  among  the  Indians.     I  was  at  an  age 
when  the  imagination  lends  its  coloring  to  every  thing, 
and  the  stories  of  these  Sinbads  of  the  wilderness  made 
the  life  of  a  trapper  and  fur  trader  perfect  romance  to  me. 
I  even  meditated  at  one  time  a  visit  to  the  remote  posts 
of  the  company  in  the  boats  which  annually  ascended  the 
lakes  and  rivers,  being  thereto  invited  by  one  of  the  part- 
ners ;  and  I  have  ever  since  regretted  that  I  was  prevented 
by  circumstances  from  carrying  my  intention  into  effect 


INTRODUCTION. 


From  lliose  early  impressions,  the  grand  enterprises  of  tiie 
great  lur  companies,  and  llic  hazardous  errantry  of  their 
associates  in  the  wild  parts  of  our  vast  continent,  have 
always  been  themes  of  charmed  interest  to  me ;  and  I 
have  felt  anxious  to  get  at  the  details  of  their  adventurous 
expeditions  among  the  savage  tribes  that  peopled  tlie 
depths  of  the  wilderness. 

About  two  years  ago,  not  long  after  my  return  from  a 
tour  upon  the  prairies  of  the  far  west,  I  had  a  conversation 
with  my  friend  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor,  relative  to  that  por- 
tion of  our  country,  and  to  the  adventurous  traders  to 
Santa  Fe  and  the  Columbia.  This  led  him  to  advert  to  a 
great  enterprize  set  on  foot  and  conducted  by  him,  between 
twenty  and  thirty  years  since,  having  for  its  object  to  carry 
the  fur  trade  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  to  sweep 
the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 

Finding  that  I  took  an  interest  in  the  subject,  he  ex- 
pressed a  regret  that  the  true  nature  and  extent  of  his 
enterprise  and  its  national  character  and  importance  had 
never  been  understood,  and  a  wish  that  I  would  imdertake 
to  give  an  account  of  it.  The  suggestion  struck  upon  the 
chord  of  early  associations,  already  vibrating  in  my  mind. 
It  occurred  to  me  that  a  work  of  this  kind  might  comprise 
a  variety  of  those  curious  details,  so  interesting  to  me, 
illustrative  of  the  fur  trade ;  of  its  remote  and  adventurous 
enterprises,  and  of  the  various  people,  and  tribes,  and 
castes,  and  characters,  civilized  and  savage,  affected  by  its 
operations.  The  journals,  and  letters  also,  of  the  adven- 
turers by  sea  and  land  employed  bv  Mr.  Astor  in  his  com- 
prehensive project,  might  throw  light  upon  portions  of  our 


1 


INTRODUCTION. 


country  quite  out  of  the  track  of  ordinary  travel,  and  as 
yet  but  little  known.  I  therefore  felt  disposed  to  under- 
take the  task,  provided  documents  of  sufficient  extent 
and  minuteness  could  be  furnished  to  me.  All  the  papers 
relative  to  the  enterprise  were  accordingly  submitted  to 
my  inspection.  Among  them  were  journals  and  letters 
narrating  expeditions  by  sea,  and  journeys  to  and  fro 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains  by  routes  before  untravelled, 
together  with  documents  illustrative  of  savage  and  colonial 
life  on  the  borders  of  the  Pacific.  With  such  materials  in 
hand,  I  undertook  the  work.  The  trouble  of  rummaging 
among  business  papers,  and  of  collecting  and  collating 
facts  from  amidst  tedious  and  common-place  details,  was 
spared  me  by  my  nephew,  Pierre  M.  Irving,  who  acted 
as  my  pioneer,  and  to  whom  I  am  greatly  indebted  for 
smoothing  my  path  and  lightening  my  labors. 

As  the  journals,  on  which  I  chiefly  depended,  had  been 
kept  by  men  of  business,  intent  upon  the  main  object  of 
the  enterprise,  and  but  little  versed  in  science,  or  curious 
about  matters  not  immediately  bearing  upon  their  interests, 
and  as  they  were  written  often  in  moments  of  fatigue  or 
hurry,  amid  the  inconveniences  of  wild  encampments,  they 
were  often  meagre  in  their  details,  furnishing  hints  to 
provoke  rather  than  narratives  to  satisfy  inquiry.  I  have, 
therefore,  availed  myself  occasionally  of  collateral  lights 
supplied  by  the  published  journals  of  other  travellers  who 
have  visited  the  scenes  described  :  such  as  Messrs.  Lewis 
and  Clarke,  Bradbury,  Brcckenridge,  Long,  Franchere, 
and  Ross  Cox,  and  make  a  general  acknowledgment  of  aid 

received  from  these  quarters. 

1* 


6 


iNTm)i)iu;Tii»N. 


Tho  work  I  liore  prosonl  to  llic  public,  is  nocossarily  of 
a  raiiiMinir  niul  soinowliat  (lisjoiiilcd  initnrc,  (-oinpriMlng 
variou:*  ox|»oililioiKs  and  advonliin^s  by  land  and  sea.  The 
fai'ts,  liowt>vrr,  will  piovo  lo  hv,  linked  and  baiulod  tof^clbcr 
by  one.  mand  scIumuc,  devised  ami  eondiiiled  by  a  niasler 
spirit ;  one  .set  ol  characters,  also,  continues  thrt)n^hout, 
appearinif  occasionally,  thouirh  soujetimea  at  long  inter- 
vals, antl  the  whole  enterprise  winds  u|)  by  a  regular 
calaslroplie  ;  so  that  the  work,  without  any  labored  attempt 
at  arliticial  cont'truction,  actually  possesses  nuich  of  that 
luiitv  so  much  sought  after  in  works  of  liclion,  and  con- 
sidered su  important  to  the  interest  of  every  history. 


■;1 


i 


i 


CONTKNTS    OF    nir:    FIRST    VOLUME. 


CIIAPTKR  I. 


.if 


OUjcclsof  Arncricfiri  nilcrpriHc— gold  hunliri';  .uid  fur  tnidiiifr— l|„;ir 
cHi-cton  (dl(.nizulir>M— early  KrcMcli  Can.idiuii  hiIII.tm— Olf.nva  niid 
Hnn.ri  ImiilrrH— mi  Itidiaii  tradin-,'  raiii|.— coiiricrH  d<H  boi.s,  or 
ruiij^cns  of  Uio  woods— tlirir  roariiiii<;  |ii;._tli(ir  rrvclH  and  cxct  rh(;8 
— licfiiHcd  friid(!r.s— irii.HsiunarirH— Iradiiitr  |)oHtH— pritiiilivf;  French 
Caiiudiaii  tntTcliant— lii.s  i-.MtaltliHliniriit  and  (InpcnduntH— liritiHli 
Canadian  Ciir  incrcliant— origin  ol'  the  Norfli-wcHt  Company— its 
constitution— il.H  internal  trade— a  candidate  lijr  the  eoin|mtiy— priva- 
lions  in  the  wildernesH— north-west  eh'rka— north-west  parlnerH— a 
north-wcHt  naliol.— fendul  riotioim  in  the  forcHts— the  loniH  of  tli« 
hikes— lort  VVilliain— its  |)arlianientary  hull  and  banqueting  room— 
wassailing  in  the  wildurneas.     . 


r'*<;r. 


IP 


CHAPTER  II. 

Rise  of  the  Mackinaw  Company— attempt  of  tlie  American  govr  rn- 
nient  to  counteract  ibreign  influence  over  the  Indian  trihcs— John 
Jacoh  Astor— his  birthplace— his  arrival  in  the  United  States— what 
first  turned  his  attention  to  the  fur  trade- his  character,  enterpriscB, 
and  success— his  communications  with  the  American  government- 
origin  of  the  American  Fur  Company 26 

CHAPTER  III. 
Fur  trade  in  the  Pacific— American  coasting  voyages— Russian  enter- 
priscs-discovery  of  the  Columbia  river-Carver's  project  to  found 
a  settlement  tlicre— Mackenzie's  expedition— Lewis  and  Clarke's 
journey  across  the  Rocky  mountains— Mr.  Astor's  grand  commercial 
.icheme— his  correspondence  on  the  subject  with  Mr.  JefiI;rson— his 
negotiations  with  the  North-west  Company-his  steps  to  earn'  his 
scheme  into  elR;ct '10 


VUl 


CONTENTS. 


PAGI. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Two  expeditions  set  on  foot — the  Tonquin  and  her  crew — Captain 
Thorn,  his  character — the  partners  and  clerks — Canadian  voyageurs, 
their  habits,  employments,  dress,  character,  songs — expedition  of  a 
Canadian  boat  and  its  crew  by  land  and  water — arrival  at  New  York 
— preparations  for  a  sea  voyage — aorth-west  braggarts — underhand 
precautions — letter  of  instructions.  45 

CHAPTER  V. 

Sailing  of  the  Tonquin — a  rigid  commander  and  a  reckless  crew — 
landsmen  on  shipboard — fresh  water  sailors  at  sea — lubber  nests — 
sliip  fare — a  Labrador  veteran — literary  clerks — curious  travellers — 
Robinson  Crusoe's  island — Cluarterdeck  quarrels — Falkland  islands 
— a  wildgoosechase — Port  Egmont — epitaph  hunting — Old  Mortality 
— penguin  shooting — sportsmen  left  in  the  lurch — a  hard  pull — further 
altercations — arrival  at  Owyhee 54 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Owyhee — Sandwich  islands — their  nautical  talents — Tamaahmaah — 
his  navy — his  negotiations — views  of  Mr.  Astor  with  respect  to  the 
Sandwich  islands — Karakakora — royal  monopoly  of  pork — descrip- 
tion of  the  islanders — gayeties  on  shore — chronicler  of  the  island — 
place  where  Captain  Cook  was  killed — John  Young,  a  nautical 
governor — his  story — Waititi — a  royal  residence — a  royal  visit — 
grand  ceremonials — close  dealing — a  royal  pork  merchant — griev- 
ances of  a  matter-of-fact  man. 66 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Departure  from  the  Sandwich  islands — misunderstandings — miseries  of 
a  suspicious  man — arrival  at  the  Columbia — dangerous  service — 
gloomy  apprehensions — bars  and  breakers — perils  of  the  ship — dis- 
asters of  a  boat's  crew — burial  of  a  Sandwich  islander.     .        .        .80 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Mouth  of  the  Columbia — the  native  tribes — their  fishing — their  canoes 
— bold  navigators — equestrian  Indians  and  piscatory  Indians,  differ- 
ence in  their  physical  organization — search  for  a  trading  site — expedi- 
tion of  M'Dougal  and  David  Stewart — Comcomly,  the  one-eyed 
chieftain — influence  of  wealth  in  savage  life — slavery  among  the 
natives — an  aristocracy  of  Flatheads — hospitality  among  the  Chi- 
nooks — Comcomly's  daughter,  her  conquest 89 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Point  George — founding  of  Astoria — Indian  visiters — their  reception — 
The  captain  taboo's  the  ship — departure  of  the  Tonquin — comments 
on  the  conduct  of  Captain  Thorn.     .......    96 


PASB. 


45 


54 


4 


1 

I 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  X. 

Disquieting  rumors  from  tlie  interior— reconnoitring  party— prepara- 
tions for  a  trading  post— an  unexpected  arrival— a  spy  in  the  camp 
—expedition  into  Uio  interior— shores  of  the  Columbia— mount 
Coffin— Indian  sepulchre— the  land  of  spirits— Columbian  valley- 
Vancouver's  point— falls  and  rapids— a  great  fishing  mart— the 
village  of  Wish-ram— dilference  between  fishing  Indians  and  hunt- 
Mig  Indians— effects  of  habits  of  trade  on  the  Indian  character- 
post  established  at  the  Oakinagan. 


IX 


PAQE 


101 


CHAPTER  XI. 
Alarm  at  Astoria— rumor  of  Indian  hostilities— preparations  for  de- 
fence—tragical  fate  of  the  Tonquin J 13 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Gloom  at  Astoria— an  ingenious   stratagem— the  smallpox  chief- 
launching  of  the  Dolly— an  arrival— a  Canadian  trapper— a  freeman 
of  the  forest— an  Iroquois  hunter— winter  on  the  Columbia— fes- 
tivities of  new-year 124 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
Expedition  by  land— Wilson  P.  Hunt— his  character— Donald 
M'Kenzie— recruiting  service  among  the  voyageurs— a  bark  canoe 
— chapel  of  St.  Anne— votive  offerings— pious  carousals— a  ragged 
regiment— Mackinaw— picture  of  a  trading  post— frolicking  voy- 
agears— swells  and  swaggerers— Indian  coxcombs— a  man  of  the 
north— jockeyship  of  voyageurs— inefilcacy  of  gold— weight  of  a 
feather— Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks— his  character— his  risks  am'ong  the 
Indians— his  warning  concerning  Sioux  and  Blackfeet— enibarc°ation 
of  recruits- parting  scenes  between  brothers,  cousins,  wives,  sweet- 
hearts, and  pot  companions.  ... 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

St.  Louis— its  situation— motley  population— French  Creole  traders 
and  their  dependants— Missouri  Fur  Company— Mr.  Manuel  Lisa 
—Mississippi  boatmen— vagrant  Indians— Kentucky  hunters— old 
French  mansion— fiddling— billiards— Mr.  Joseph  Miller— his  char- 
acter-recruits—voyage  up  the  Missouri— difficulties  of  the  river- 
merits  of  Canadian  voyageurs— arrival  at  the  Nodowa— Mr.  Robert 
M'Lellan  joins  the  party— John  Day,  a  Virginia  hunter— description 
of  him— Mr.  Hunt  returns  to  St.  Louis 

CFI AFTER  XV. 

Opposition  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company— Blackfeet  Indians—Pierre 
Dorion,  a  half-breed  interpreter— old  Dorion  and  his  hybrid  progeny 


131 


141 


CONTENTS. 


— family  quarrels — cross  purposes  between  Dorion  and  Lisa — rene- 
gadoes  from  Nodowa — perplexities  of  a  commander — Messrs.  Brad- 
bury and  Nuttall  join  the  expedition — legal  embarrassments  of 
Pierre  Dorion — departure  from  St.  Louis — conjugal  discipline  of  a 
half-breed — annual  s#velling  of  the  rivers — Daniel  Boon,  the  patriarch 
of  Kentucky— John  Colter — his  adventures  among  the  Indians — 
rumors  of  danger  ahead — fort  Osasie — an  Indian  war- feast — troubles 
in  the  Dorion  family — Buffaloes  and  turkey-buzzards. 


P&SB. 


148 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
Return  of  spring — appearance  of  snakes — great  flights  of  wild  pigeons 
— renewal  of  the  voyage — night  encampments — Platte  river — 
ceremonials  on  passing  it — signs  of  Indian  war  parties — magnificent 
prospect  at  Papillion  creek — desertion  of  two  hunters — an  irruption 
into  the  camp  of  Indian  desperadoes — village  of  the  Omahas — 
anecdotes  of  the  tribe— feudal  wars  of  the  Indians — story  of  Black- 
bird, the  famous  Omaha  chief. 163 

CHAPTER  XVIL 

Rumors  of  danger  from  the  Sioux  Tetons — ruthless  character  of  those 
savages — pirates  of  the  Missouri— their  affair  with  Crooks  and 
M'Lellan — a  trading  expedition  broken  up — M'Lellan's  vow  of 
vengeance — uneasiness  in  the  camp — desertions — departure  from 
tlie  Omaha  village — meeting  witii  Jones  and  Carson,  two  adven- 
turous trappers — scientific  pursuits  of  Messrs.  Bradbury  and  Nut- 
tall — zeal  of  a  botanist — adventure  of  Mr.  Bradbury  with  a  Ponca 
Indian — expedient  of  the  pocket  compass  and  microscope — a  mes- 


'I 

■I 


senger  from  Lisa- 


-motives  for  pressing  forward. 


177 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Camp  gossip — deserters — recruits — Kentucky  hunters — a  veteran 
woodman — tidings  of  Mr.  Henry — danger  from  the  Blackfeet — 
alteration  of  plans — scenery  of  the  river — bufflilo  roads — iron  ore — 
country  of  the  Sioux — a  land  of  danger — apprehensions  of  the 
voyageurs — Indian  scouts — threatened  hostilities — a  council  of  war 
— an  array  of  battle — a  parley — the  pipe  of  peace — speech  making. 


187 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
The  great  bend  of  the  Missouri — Crooks  and  M'Lellan  meet  with 
two  of  their  Indian  opponents — wanton  outrage  of  a  white  man 
the  cause  of  Indian  hostility — dangers  and  precautions — an  Indian 
war  party — dangerous  situation  of  Mr.  Hunt — a  friendly  encamp- 
ment— feasting  and  dancing — approach  of  Manual  Lisa  and  his 
party — a  grim  meeting  between  old  rivals — Pierre  Dorion  in  a  fury 
— a  burst  of  cliivalry 198 


I 


i 


FAOE. 


148 


163 


177 


187 


n 
I 

I 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Features  of  the  wilderness — herds  of  buffalo— antelopes — their  varie- 
ties and  habits — John  Day — his  hunting  stratagem— intervievvr  with 
three  Arickaras — negotiations  between  the  rival  parties — tlie  Left^ 
handed  and  tlie  Big  Man,  two  Arickara  chiefs — Ariekara  village — 
its  inhabitants — ceremonials  on  landing — a  council  lodge — grand 
conference — speech  of  Lisa — negotiation  for  horses — shrewd  sug- 
gestion of  Gray  Eyes,  an  Arickara  chief— encampment  of  the 
trading  parties 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
An  Indian  horse  fair — love  of  the  Indians  for  horses — scenes  in  the 
Arickara  village — Indian  hospitality — duties  of  Indian  women — 
game  habits  of  the  men — their  indolence — love  of  gossiping — nimors 
of  lurking  enemies — scouts — an  alarm — a  sallying  forth — Indian 
dogs — return  of  a  horse-stealing  party — an  Indian  deputation — 
fresh  alarms — return  of  a  successful  war  party — dress  of  the  Arick- 
aras— Indian  toilet — triumphal  entry  of  tiie  war  party — meetings  of 
relations  and  friends — Indian  sensibility — meeting  of  a  wounded 
warrior  and  his  mother — festivities  and  lamentations. 


XI 


PAOI. 


207 


218 


198 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Wilderness  of  the  far  west — great  American  desprt—  parched  seasons 
— Black  hills — Rocky  mountains — wandering  and  predatory  hordes 
— speculations  on  what  may  be  the  future  population — apprehended 
dangers — a  plot  to  desert — Rose  the  interpreter — his  sinister  char- 
acter— departure  from  tlie  Arickara  village 230 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Summer  weather  of  the  prairies — purity  of  the  atmosphere — Cana- 
dians on  the  march — sickness  in  the  camp — Big  river — vulgar  nom- 
enclature— suggestions  about  the  original  Indian  names — camp  of 
Cheyennes — trade  for  horses — character  of  the  Cheyennes — their 
horsemanship — historical  anecdotes  of  the  tribe 236 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

New  distribution  of  horses — secret  information  of  treason  in  the  camp 
— Rose  the  interpreter,  his  perfidious  character — his  plots — anec- 
dotes of  the  Crow  Indians — notorious  horse  stealers — some  account 
of  Rose — a  desperado  of  the  frontier 242 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
Substitute  for  fuel  on  the  prairies — fossil  trees — fierceness  of  the  buf- 
faloes when  in  heat — three  hunters  missing — signal  fires  and  smokes 
— uneasiness  concerning  the  lost  men — a  plan  to  forestall  a  rogue — 
new  arrangement  with  Rose — return  of  the  wanderers.  .        .    246 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


PAGB. 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
The  Black  mountains — haunts  of  predatory  Indians — their  wild  and 
broken  appearance — superstitions  concerning  them — thunder  spirits 
— singular  noises  in  the  mountains — secret  mines — liidden  treasures 
— mountains  in  labor — scientific  explanation — impassable  defiles — 
black-tailed  deer — the  bighorn  or  ahsahta — prospect  from  a  lofty 
height — plain  with  herds  of  bufllilo — distant  peaks  of  tlie  Rocky 
mountains — alarms  in  the  camp — tracks  of  grizzly  bears — danger- 
ous nature  of  this  animal — adventures  of  William  Cannon  and 
John  Day  with  grizzly  bears. 252 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 
Indian  trial — rough  mountain  travelling — sufferings  from  hunger  and 
thirst — Powder  river — game  in  abundance — a  hunter's  paradise — 
mountain  peak  seen  at  a  great  distance — one  of  the  Big  Horn 
chain — Rocky  mountains — extent — ajjpearance — height — the  great 
American  desert — various  characteristics  of  the  mountains — Indian 
superstitions  concerning  them — land  of  souls — towns  of  the  free 
and  generous  spirits — happy  hunting  grounds 261 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
Region  of  the  Crow  Indians — scouts  on  the  lookout — visit  from  a  crew 
of  hard  riders — a  Crow  Camp — presents  to  the  Crow  chief— bargain- 
ing— Crow  bullies — Rose  among  his  Indian  friends — parting  with 
the  Crows — perplexities  among  the  mountains — more  of  the  Crows 
— equestrian  children — search  after  stragglers 267 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
Mountain  glens — wandering  band  of  savages — anecdotes  of  Shos- 
honies  and  Flatheads — root  diggers — their  solitary  lurking  habits — 
gnomes  of  the  mountains — Wind  river — scarcity  of  food — alteration 
of  route — the  Pilot  Knobs  or  Tetons — branch  of  the  Colorado — 
hunting  camp. 274 

CHAPTER  XXX. 
A  plentiful  hunting  camp— Shoshonie  hunters — Hoback's  river — Mad 
river — encampment  near  the  Pilot  Knobs — a  consultation — prepara- 
tions for  a  perilous  voyage 282 


* 
•> 


PACK. 


iirwild  and 
inder  spirits 
in  treasures 
le  defiles — 
■om  a  lofty 
tlie  Rocky 
•s — danger- 
annon  and 


252 


ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER    I. 


lunger  and 
paradise — 
Big  Horn 
-the  great 
IS — Indian 
)f  the  free 


om  a  crew 
— bargain- 
rting  with 
the  Crows 


of  Shos- 
;  habits — 
-alteration 
oloradc 


261 


267 


274 


'er— Mad 
-prepara- 


282 


1 


Objects  of  American  enterprise — gold  hunting  and  fur  trading — 

THEIR    EFFECT    ON    COLONIZATION EARLY    FrENCH    CANADIAN    SETTLERS 

— Ottawa  and  Huron  hunters — an  Indian  trading  camp — coureurs 

PES    BOIS,    or     rangers     OF    THE    WOODS THEIR    ROAMING    LIFE — THEIR 

revels     and      excesses LICENSED     TRADERS MISSIONARIES TRADING 

POSTS PRIMITIVE     FrENCH    CaNADIAN    MERCHANT HIS     ESTABLISHMENT 

AND    DEPENDANTS BrITISH   CaNADIAN    FUR    MERCHANT ORIGIN    OF  THE 

NoRTH-wEST   Company — its   constitution — its   internal   trade — a 

CANDIDATE  FOR  THE  COMPANY PRIVATIONS  IN  THE  WILDERNESS NORTH- 
WEST CLERKS NORTH-WEST    PARTNERS A  NORTH-WEST  NABOB FEUDAL 

NOTIONS    IN    THE    FORESTS THE    LORDS    OF    THE    LAKES — FORT  WiLLIAM 

ITS    PARLIAMENTARY    HALL     AND     BANQUETING     ROOM WASSAILING     IN 

THE    WILDERNESS. 

Two  leading  objects  of  commercial  gain  have  given  birth  to 
wide  and  daring  enterprise  in  the  early  history  of  the  Americas  ; 
the  precious  metals  of  the  south,  and  the  rich  peltries  of  the 
north.  While  the  fiery  and  magnificent  Spaniard,  inflamed 
with  the  mania  for  gold,  has  extended  his  discoveries  and  con- 
quests over  those  brilliant  countries  scorched  by  the  ardent 
sun  of  the  tropics,  the  adroit  and  buoyant  Frenchman,  and  the 
cool  and  calculating  Briton,  have  pursued  the  less  splendid,  but 
no  less  lucrative,  traffic  in  furs  amidst  the  hyperborean  regions 
of  the  Canadas,  until  they  have  advanced  even  within  the 
Arctic  circle. 

2 


14 


FRENCH  CANADIAN  SETTLERS. 


These  two  pursuits  have  thus  in  a  manner  been  the  pioneers 
and  precursors  of  civilization.  Without  pausing  on  the  bor- 
ders, they  have  penetrated  at  once,  in  detiance  of  difficulties 
and  dangers,  to  the  heart  of  savage  countries  :  laying  open 
the  hidden  secrets  of  the  wilderness ;  leading  the  way  to  re- 
mote regions  of  beauty  and  fertility  that  might  have  remained 
unexplored  for  ages,  and  beckoning  after  them  the  slow  and 
pausing  steps  of  agriculture  and  civilization. 

It  was  the  fur  trade,  in  fact,  which  gave  early  sustenance 
and  vitality  to  the  great  Canadian  provinces.  Being  destitute 
of  the  precious  metals,  at  that  time  the  leading  objects  of  Amer- 
ican enterprise,  they  were  long  neglected  by  the  parent  country. 
The  French  adventurers,  however,  who  had  settled  on  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  soon  found  that  in  the  rich  peltries 
of  the  interior,  they  had  sources  of  wealth  that  might  almost 
rival  the  mines  of  Mexico  and  Peru.  The  Indians,  as  yet 
unacquainted  with  the  artificial  value  given  to  some  descrip- 
tions of  furs,  in  civilized  life,  brought  quantities  of  the  most 
precious  kinds  and  bartered  them  away  for  European  trinkets 
and  cheap  commodities.  Immense  profits  were  thus  made  by 
the  early  traders,  and  the  traffic  was  pursued  with  avidity. 

As  the  valuable  furs  soon  became  scarce  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  settlements,  the  Indians  of  the  vicinity  were  stimu- 
lated to  take  a  wider  range  in  their  hunting  expeditions  ;  they 
were  generally  accompanied  on  these  expeditions  by  some  of  the 
traders  or  their  dependants,  who  shared  in  the  toils  and  perils 
of  the  chase,  and  at  the  same  time  made  themselves  acquainted 
with  the  best  hunting  and  trapping  grounds,  and  with  the  re- 
mote tribes,  whom  they  encouraged  to  bring  their  peltries  to 
the  settlements.  In  this  way  the  trade  augmented  and  was 
drawn  from  remote  quarters  to  Montreal.  Every  now  and 
then  a  large  body  of  Ottawas,  Hurons,  and  other  tribes  who 


■fi- 


INDIAN    TRADING    CAMP. 


15 


le  pioneers 
)n  the  bor- 

difficulties 
lying  open 

way  to  re- 
e  remained 
e  slow  and 

sustenance 

ig  destitute 

ts  of  Amer- 

snt  country. 

led  on  the 

ch  peltries 

ht  almost 

ns,  as  yet 

le  descrip- 

'  the  most 

m  trinkets 

s  made  by 

I'idity. 

neighbor- 

ere  stimu- 

)ns  ;  they 

)me  of  the 

nd  perils 

cquainted 

h  the  re- 

eltries  to 

and  was 

now  and 

ibes  who 


hunted  the  countries  bordering  on  the  great  lakes,  would  come 
down  in  a  squadron  of  light  canoes,  laden  with  beaver  skins, 
and  other  spoils  of  their  year's  hunting.  The  canoes  would 
be  unladen,  taken  on  shore,  and  their  contents  disposed  in 
order.  A  camj)  of  birch  bark  would  be  pitched  outside  of  the 
town,  and  a  kind  of  primitive  fair  opened  with  that  grave  cere- 
monial so  dear  to  the  Indians.  An  audience  would  be  de- 
manded of  the  governor-general,  who  would  hold  the  con- 
ference with  becoming  state,  seated  in  an  elbow  chair,  with 
the  Indians  ranged  in  semicircles  before  him,  seated  on  the 
ground,  and  silently  smoking  their  pipes.  Speeches  would  be 
made,  presents  exchanged,  and  the  audience  would  break  up 
in  universal  good  humor. 

Now  would  ensue  a  brisk  traffic  with  the  merchants,  and  all 
Montreal  would  be  alive  with  naked  Indians  nmning  from 
shop  to  shop  bargaining  for  arms,  kettles,  knives,  axes,  blankets, 
bright-colored  cloths,  and  other  articles  of  use  or  fancy ;  upon 
all  which,  says  an  old  French  writer,  the  merchants  were  sure 
to  clear  at  least  two  hundred  per  cent.  There  was  no  money 
used  in  tliis  traflic,  and,  after  a  time,  all  payment  in  spirituous 
liquors  was  prohibited,  in  consequence  of  the  frantic  and 
frightful  excesses  and  bloody  brawls  wliich  they  were  apt  to 
occasion. 

Their  wants  and  caprices  being  supplied,  they  would  take 
leave  of  the  governor,  strike  their  tents,  launch  their  canoes, 
and  ply  their  way  up  the  Ottawa  to  the  lakes. 

A  new  and  anomalous  class  of  men  gradually  grew  out 
of  this  trade.  These  were  called  coureurs  des  bois,  rangers 
of  the  woods ;  originally  men  who  had  accompanied  the 
Indians  in  their  hunting  expeditions  and  made  themselves 
acquainted  with  remote  tracts  and  tribes ;  and  who  now  be- 
came, as  it  were,  pedlars  of  the  wilderness.      These  men 


16 


COUREURS    DES    B0I3. 


would  set  out  from  Montreal  with  canoes  well  stocked  with 
goods,  with  arms  and  ammunition,  and  would  make  their  way 
up  the  mazy  and  wandering  rivers  that  interlace  the  vast 
forests  of  the  Canadas,  coasting  the  most  remote  lakes,  and 
creating  new  wants  and  habitudes  among  the  natives.  Some- 
times they  sojourned  for  months  among  them,  assimilating  to 
their  tastes  and  habits  with  the  happy  facility  of  Frenchmen ; 
adopting  in  some  degree  the  Indian  dress,  and  not  unfrequently 
taking  to  themselves  Indian  wives. 

Twelve,  fifteen,  eighteen  months  would  often  elapse  without 
any  tidings  of  them,  when  they  would  come  sweeping  their 
way  down  the  Ottawa  in  full  glee,  their  canoes  laden  down 
with  packs  of  beaver  skins.  Now  came  their  turn  for  revelry 
and  extravagance.  "  You  would  be  amazed,"  says  an  old 
writer  already  quoted,  •'  if  you  saw  how  lewd  these  pedlars 
are  when  they  return ;  how  they  feast  and  game,  and  how 
prodigal  they  are  not  only  in  their  clothes,  but  upon  their 
sweethearts.  Such  of  them  as  are  married  have  the  wisdom 
to  retire  to  their  own  houses  ;  but  the  bachelors  act  just  as  an 
East  Indiaman  and  pirates  are  wont  to  do ;  for  they  lavish, 
eat,  drink,  and  play  all  away  as  long  as  the  goods  hold  out ; 
and  when  these  are  gone,  they  even  sell  their  embroidery, 
their  lace  and  their  clothes.  This  done  they  are  forced  upon 
a  new  voyage  for  subsistence."* 

Many  of  these  coureurs  des  hois  became  so  accustomed  to 
the  Indian  mode  of  living,  and  the  perfect  freedom  of  the 
wilderness,  that  they  lost  all  relish  for  civilization,  and  iden- 
tified themselves  with  the  savages  among  whom  they  dwelt, 
or  could  only  be  distinguished  from  them  by  superior  licen- 
tiousness. Their  conduct  and  example  gradually  corrupted  the 
natives,  and  impeded  the  works  of  the  Catholic  missionaries, 

*  La  Hontan,  v.  i,  let.  4. 


M 


LICENSED    TRADERS. 


17 


itocked  with 
le  their  way 
ce  thn  vast 
!  lakes,  and 
es.  Some- 
imilating  to 
'henchmen ; 
infrequently 

pse  without 
eping  their 
aden  down 
for  revelry 
ays  an  old 
3se  pedlars 
J,  and  how 
upon  their 
he  wisdom 

just  as  an 
ley  lavish, 

hold  out ; 
nbroidery, 
•reed  upon 

stomed  to 
»m  of  the 
and  iden- 
ey  dwelt, 
or  licen- 
upted  the 
sionaries. 


■^. 


who  were  at  this  time  prosecuting  their  pious  labors  in  the 
wilds  of  Canada. 

To  check  these  abuses,  and  to  protect  the  fur  trade  from 
various  irreguhirities  practised  by  these  loose  adventurers,  an 
order  was  issued  by  the  French  government  prohibiting  all 
persons,  on  pain  of  death,  from  trading  into  the  interior  of  the 
country  without  a  license. 

These  licenses  were  granted  in  writing  by  the  governor- 
general,  and  at  first  were  given  only  to  persons  of  respecta- 
bility ;  to  gentlemen  of  broken  fortimes  ;  to  old  officers  of  the 
army  who  had  families  to  provide  for ;  or  to  their  widows. 
Each  license  permitted  the  fitting  out  of  two  large  canoes 
with  merchandise  for  the  lakes,  and  no  more  than  twenty-five 
licenses  were  to  be  issued  in  one  year.  By  degrees,  how- 
ever, private  licenses  were  also  granted,  and  the  number  rapidly 
increased.  Those  who  did  not  choose  to  fit  out  the  expedi- 
tions themselves,  were  permitted  to  sell  them  to  the  mer- 
chants ;  these  employed  the  coureurs  des  bois,  or  rangers  of 
the  woods,  to  undertake  the  long  voyages  on  shares,  and  thus 
the  abuses  of  the  old  system  were  revived  and  continued.* 

*  The  following  arc  the  terms  on  which  these  expeditions  were  commonly 
undertaken.  The  merchant  holding  the  license  would  fit  out  the  two  canoes 
with  a  thousand  crowns  worth  of  goods,  and  put  them  under  the  conduct 
of  six  coureurs  dos  hois,  to  whom  the  goods  were  charged  at  the  rate  of 
fifteen  per  cent  above  the  ready  money  price  in  the  colony.  The  coureurs 
des  hois,  in  their  turn  dealt  so  phar])ly  with  the  savages,  that  they  gener- 
ally returned  at  the  end  of  a  year  or  so,  with  four  canoes  well  laden,  so 
as  to  ensure  a  clear  profit  of  seven  hundred  per  cent,  insomuch  that  the 
thousand  crowns  invested,  produced  eight  thousand.  Of  this  extravagant 
profit  the  merchant  had  the  lion's  share.  In  the  first  place  he  would  set 
aside  six  hundred  crowns  for  the  cost  of  his  license,  then  a  thousand  crowns 
for  the  cost  of  tlie  oriiiinal  merchandise.  This  would  leave  six  thousand 
four  hundrtid  crowns  from  which  he  would  take  forty  per  cent  for  bottomry, 
amounting  to  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty  crowns.  The  residue 
would  be  equally  divided  among  the  six  wood  rangers,  who  would  thus 
receive  little  more  than  six  hundred  crowns  for  all  their  toils  and  perils. 

2* 


18 


A   FRENCH   TRADING   POST. 


The  pious  missionaries  employed  by  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  to  convert  the  Indians,  did  every  thing  in  their  power 
to  counteract  the  profligacy  caused  and  propagated  by  these 
men  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness.  The  Catholic  chapel 
might  often  be  seen  planted  beside  the  trading  house,  and 
its  spire  surmounted  by  a  cross,  towering  from  the  midst  of 
an  Indian  village  on  the  banks  of  a  river  or  a  lake.  The 
missions  had  often  a  beneficial  effect  on  the  simple  sons 
of  the  forest,  but  had  little  power  over  the  renegades  from 
civilization. 

At  length  it  was  found  necessary  to  establish  fortified  posts 
at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  and  the  lakes  for  the  protec- 
tion of  the  trade,  and  the  restraint  of  these  profligates  of  the 
wilderness.  The  most  important  of  these  was  at  Michilimack- 
inac,  situated  at  the  strait  of  the  same  name,  which  connects 
lakes  Huron  and  Michigan.  It  became  the  great  interior  mart 
and  place  of  deposit,  and  some  of  the  regular  merchants,  who 
prosecuted  the  trade  in  person,  under  their  licenses,  formed 
establishments  here.  This,  too,  was  a  rendezvous  for  the  rangers 
of  the  woods,  as  well  those  who  came  up  with  goods  from 
Montreal  as  those  who  returned  with  peltries  from  the  interior. 
Here  new  expeditions  were  fitted  out  and  took  their  departure 
for  lake  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi ;  lake  Superior  and  the 
north-west ;  and  here  the  peltries  brought  in  return  were 
embarked  for  Montreal. 

The  French  merchant  at  his  trading  post,  in  these  primitive 
days  of  Canada,  was  a  kind  of  commercial  patriarch.  With 
the  lax  habits  and  easy  familiarity  of  his  race,  he  had  a  little 
world  of  self-indulgence  and  misrule  around  him.  He  had 
his  clerks,  canoe-men  and  retainers  of  all  kinds,  who  lived 
with  him  on  terms  of  perfect  sociability,  always  calling  him 
bv  his  christian  name  ;  he  had  his  harem  of  Indian  beauties, 


p 

n 


•'S 


BRITISH    rUR    TRADERS. 


19 


lan  Catholic 
their  power 
3d  by  these 
lolic  chapel 
house,  and 
le  midst  of 
lake.  The 
imple  sons 
gades  from 

tified  posts 
the  protec- 
ates  of  the 
iehilimack- 
h  connects 
terior  mart 
lants,  who 
es,  formed 
he  rangers 
oods  from 
e  interior, 
departure 
•r  and  the 
urn  were 

primitive 
h.  With 
id  a  little 
He  had 
'^ho  lived 
ling  him 
beauties, 


-ft 


»2 


and  his  troop  of  half-breed  children ;  nor  was  there  ever 
wanting  a  louting  train  of  Indians,  hanging  about  the  estab- 
lishinonl,  eating  and  drinking  at  his  expense  in  the  intervals 
of  their  hunting  expeditions. 

The  Canadian  traders,  for  a  long  time,  had  troublesome  com- 
petitors in  the  British  merchants  of  New  York,  who  inveigled 
the  Indian  hunters  and  the  coureurs  des  hois,  to  their  posts, 
and  traded  with  them  on  more  favorable  terms.  A  still  more 
formidable  opposition  was  organized  in  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, chartered  by  Charles  II,  in  1670,  with  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  establishing  trading  houses  on  the  shores  of  that 
bay  and  its  tributary  rivers  ;  a  privilege  which  they  have  main- 
tained to  the  present  day.  Between  this  British  Company 
and  the  French  merchants  of  Canada,  feuds  and  contests  arose 
about  alleged  infringements  of  territorial  limits,  and  acts  of 
violence  and  bloodshed  occurred  between  their  agents. 

In  1762,  the  French  lost  possession  of  Canada,  and  the 
trade  fell  principally  into  the  hands  of  British  subjects.  For 
a  time,  however,  it  shrunk  within  narrow  limits.  The  old 
coureurs  dcs  hois  were  broken  up  and  dispersed,  or,  where 
they  could  be  met  with,  were  slow  to  accustom  themselves  to 
the  habits  and  manners  of  their  British  employers.  They 
missed  the  freedom,  indulgence,  and  familiarity  of  the  old 
French  trading  houses,  and  did  not  relish  the  sober  exactness, 
reserve,  and  method  of  the  new  comers.  The  British  traders, 
too,  were  ignorant  of  the  country,  and  distrustful  of  the  natives. 
They  had  reason  to  be  so.  The  treacherous  and  bloody  affairs 
of  Detroit  and  Michilimackinac  showed  them  the  lurking  hos- 
tility cherished  by  the  savages,  who  had  too  long  been  taught 
by  the  French  to  regard  them  as  enemies. 

It  was  not  until  the  year  1766,  that  the  trade  regained  its 
old  channels  ;  but  it  was  then  pursued  with  much  avidity  and 


90 


RISE    OP    THE    NOUTH-WKHT    COMPANY. 


uinuhitiun  by  individuiil  murchuntM,  uiul  hooii  transcended  its 
lornior  Imunds.  Ilxpeditions  wero  littcd  out  by  vuriouM  pjTsons 
I'rom  Montreal  und  Michilimaekinao,  and  riv  iil.sliips  and  jcaloutiies 
of  course  ensued.  The  trade  was  injured  by  their  artiliees  to 
outbid  and  undermine  each  other;  the  Indians  were  del)auehed 
by  the  sale  of  spirituous  liquors,  which  had  been  prohibited 
under  the  Fnuich  rule.  Scenes  o(  drunkeiuiess,  l)rutaUty,  and 
brawl  wcri!  tlie  consequence,  in  the  Indian  villages  and  around 
the  trading  houses,  while  bloody  feuds  took  place  between 
rival  trading  parties  when  they  happened  to  encounter  each 
other  in  the  lawless  depths  of  the  wilderness. 

To  put  an  end  to  these  sordid  and  ruinous  contentions, 
several  of  the  principal  merchants  of  Montreal  entered  into 
a  partnership  in  the  winter  of  1783,  which  was  augmented 
by  amalgamation  with  a  rival  company  in  1787.  Thus  was 
created  the  famous  '*  North-west  Company,"  which  for  a  time 
held  a  lordly  sway  over  the  wintry  lakes  and  boundless  forests 
of  the  Canadas,  almost  equal  to  that  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany over  the  voluptuous  climes  and  magnificent  realms  of 
the  Orient. 

The  company  consisted  of  twenty-three  share  holders,  or 
partners,  but  held  in  its  employ  about  two  thousand  persons 
as  clerks,  guides,  interpreters,  and  "voyageurs,"  or  boatmen. 
These  were  distributed  at  various  trading  posts,  established  far 
and  wide  on  the  interior  lakes  and  rivers,  at  immense  distances 
fiom  each  other,  and  in  the  heart  of  trackless  countries  and 
savage  iribes. 

Several  of  the  partners  resided  in  Montreal  and  Quebec, 
to  manage  the  main  concerns  of  the  company.  These  were 
called  agents,  and  were  personages  of  great  weight  and  im- 
portance ;  the  other  partners  took  their  stations  at  the  interior 
posts,  where  they  remained  throughout  the  winter,  to  super- 


■■i-I.\I 


1 


PROBATION    IN    THE    WILDERNE!»S. 


21 


isctuuled  its 
oils  persons 
(I  jealousies 
■  artilioes  to 
)  iJ(;l)!iuclu;(l 
prohibited 
utality,  and 
and  around 
!e  between 
unter  each 

ontcntions, 
itered  into 
augmented 
Tlius  was 
i'or  a  time 
3ss  forests 
idia  Corn- 
realms  of 

ulders,  or 
persons 

boatmen. 

ished  far 
distances 
tries  and 

Quebec, 

3se  were 

and  im- 

interior 

|o  super- 


-11 


intend  the  intercourse  with  the  various  tribes  of  Indians.    They 
wore  tlience  caUed  wintering  partners. 

The  goods  destined  for  this  wide  and  wandering  if-»ffic  were 
put  up  at  the  warehouses  of  the  company  in  Muntreal,  ;ind  'ii- 
veyed  in  batteaux,  or  boats,  and  canoes,  up  (he  river  Attawa,  or 
Ottawa,  which  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence  neaf  Montreal,  and 
by  other  rivers  and  portages,  to  lake  Nipising,  luk<'  Huron, 
lake  Superior,  and  thence,  by  several  chains  of  groat  and  small 
lakes,  to  lake  Winipeg,  lake  Athabasca,  and  the  great  Slave 
lake.  This  singular  and  beautiful  system  of  internal  seas, 
which  renders  an  iuunense  region  of  wilderness  so  accessible 
to  the  frail  bark  of  the  Indian  or  the  trader,  was  studded  by  the 
remote  posts  of  the  company,  where  they  carried  on  their  traffic 
with  the  surrounding  tribes. 

The  company,  as  we  have  shown,  was  at  first  a  spontaneous 
association  of  merchants ;  but,  after  it  had  been  regularly  or- 
ganized, admission  into  it  became  extremely  difficult.  A  can- 
didate had  to  enter,  as  it  were,  "  before  the  mast,"  to  undergo 
a  long  probation,  and  to  rise  slowly  by  his  merits  and  services. 
He  began,  at  an  early  age,  as  a  clerk,  and  served  an  appren- 
ticeship of  seven  years,  for  which  he  received  one  hundred 
pounds  sterling,  was  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the  compa- 
ny, and  furnished  with  suitable  clothing  and  equipments.  His 
probation  was  generally  passed  at  the  interior  trading  posts ; 
removed  for  years  from  civilized  society,  leading  a  life  almost 
as  wild  and  precarious  as  the  savages  around  him ;  exposed 
to  the  severities  of  a  northern  winter,  often  suffering  from  a 
scarcity  of  food,  and  sometimes  destitute  for  a  long  time  of 
both  bread  and  salt.  "When  his  apprenticeship  had  expired, 
he  received  a  salary  according  to  his  deserts,  varying  from 
eighty  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds  sterling,  and  was  now 
eligible  to  the  great  object  of  his  ambition,  a  partnership  in 


22 


HYPERBOREAN    NABOBS. 


the  company ;  though  years  might  yet  elapse  before  he  a!ttained 
to  that  enviable  station. 

Most  of  the  clerks  were  young  men  of  good  families,  from 
the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  characterised  by  the  perseverance, 
thrift,  and  fidelity  of  their  country,  and  fitted  by  their  native 
hardihood  to  encounter  the  rigorous  climate  of  the  north,  and 
to  endure  the  trials  and  privations  of  their  lot ;  though  it  must 
not  be  concealed  that  the  constitutions  of  many  of  them  be- 
came impaired  by  the  hardships  of  the  wilderness,  and  their 
stomachs  injured  by  occasional  famishing,  and  especially  by 
the  want  of  bread  and  salt.  Now  and  then,  at  an  interval  of 
years,  they  were  permitted  to  come  down  on  a  visit  to  the 
establishment  at  Montreal,  to  recruit  their  health  and  to  have 
a  taste  of  civilized  Ufe  ;  and  these  were  brilliant  spots  in  their 
existence. 

As  to  the  principal  partners,  or  ?f<-nis,  who  resided  in 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  they  formed  a  kind  of  commercial  aris- 
tocracy, living  in  lordly  and  hospitable  style.  Their  early 
associations,  when  clerks  at  the  remote  trading  posts,  and  the 
pleasures,  dangers,  adventures,  and  mishaps,  which  they  had 
shared  together  in  their  wild  wood  life,  had  linked  them  heartily 
to  each  other,  so  that  they  formed  a  convivial  fraternity.  Few 
travellers  that  have  visited  Canada  some  thirty  years  since,  in 
the  days  of  the  M'Tavishes,  the  M'Gillivrays,  the  M'Kenzies, 
the  Frobishers,  and  the  other  magnates  of  the  north-west, 
when  the  company  was  in  all  its  glory,  but  must  remember 
the  round  of  feasting  and  revelry  kept  up  among  these  hyper- 
borean nabobs. 

Sometimes  one  or  two  partners,  recently  from  the  interior 
posts,  would  make  their  appearance  in  New  York,  in  the 
course  of  a  tour  of  pleasure  and  curiosity.  On  these  occasions 
there  was  always  a  degree  of  magnificence  of  the  purse  about 


,1 


■v-a 


FEUDAL    NOTIONS    IN    THE    FORESTS. 


23 


re  he  attained 

amilies,  from 

)erseverance, 

their  native 

le  north,  and 

lOugh  it  must 

of  them  be- 

ss,  and  their 

ispecially  by 

n  interval  of 

visit  to  the 

and  to  have 

ipots  in  their 

•  resided  in 
nercial  aris- 
Their  early 
•sts,  and  the 
h  they  had 
lem  heartily 
nity.  Few 
Ts  since,  in 
M'Kenzies, 
north-west, 

remember 
lese  hyper- 
he  interior 
rk,  in  the 

occasions 
lurse  about 


them,  and  a  peculiar  propensity  to  expenditure  at  the  gold- 
smiths and  jewellers,  for  rings,  chains,  brooches,  necklaces, 
jewelled  watches,  and  other  rich  trinkets,  partly  for  their  own 
wear,  partly  for  presents  to  their  female  acquaintances ;  a 
gorgeous  prodigality,  such  as  was  often  to  be  noticed  in  former 
times  in  southern  planters  and  West  India  Creoles,  when  flush 
with  the  profits  of  their  plantations. 

To  behold  the  North-west  Company  in  all  its  state  and 
grandeur,  however,  it  was  necessary  to  witness  an  annual 
gathering  at  the  great  interior  place  of  conference  established 
at  Fort  William,  near  what  is  called  the  Grand  Portage,  on 
lake  Superior.  Here  two  or  three  of  the  leading  partners 
from  Montreal  proceeded  once  a  year,  to  meet  the  partners 
from  the  various  trading  posts  of  the  wilderness,  to  discuss 
the  aflairs  of  the  company  during  the  preceding  year,  and  to 
arrange  plans  for  the  future. 

On  these  occasions  might  be  seen  the  change  since  the 
unceremonious  times  of  the  old  French  traders ;  now  the  aris- 
tocratical  character  of  the  Briton  shone  forth  magnificently, 
or  rather  the  feudal  spirit  of  the  Highlander.  Every  partner 
who  had  charge  of  an  interior  post,  and  a  score  of  retainers 
at  his  command,  felt  like  the  chieftain  of  a  Highland  clan, 
and  was  almost  as  important  in  the  eyes  of  his  dependants 
as  of  himself.  To  him  a  visit  to  the  grand  conference  at 
Fort  William  was  a  most  important  event ;  and  he  repaired 
there  as  to  a  meeting  of  parliament. 

The  partners  from  Montreal,  however,  were  the  lords  of  the 
ascendant ;  coming  from  the  midst  of  luxurious  and  osten- 
tatious life,  they  quite  eclipsed  their  compeers  from  the  woods, 
whose  forms  and  faces  had  been  battered  and  hardened  by 
hard  living  and  hard  service,  and  whose  garments  and  equip- 
ments were  all  the  worse  for  wear.     Indeed,  the  partners  from 


d4 


WASSAILING    IN   THE    WILDERNESS. 


below  considered  the  whole  dignity  of  the  company  as  repre- 
sented in  their  persons,  and  conducted  themselves  in  suitable 
style.  They  ascended  the  rivers  in  great  state,  like  sovereigns 
making  a  progress :  or  rather  like  Highland  chieftains  navi- 
gating their  subject  lakes.  They  were  wrapped  in  rich  furs, 
their  huge  canoes  freighted  with  every  convenience  and  luxury, 
and  manned  by  Canadian  voyageurs,  as  obedient  as  Highland 
clansmen.  They  carried  up  with  them  cooks  and  bakers, 
together  with  delicacies  of  every  kind,  and  abundance  of  choice 
wines  for  the  banquets  which  attended  this  great  convocation. 
Happy  were  they,  too,  if  they  could  meet  with  some  distin- 
guished stranger,  above  all,  some  titled  member  of  the  British 
nobility,  to  accompany  them  on  this  stately  occasion,  and  grace 
their  high  solemnities. 

Fort  William,  the  scene  of  this  important  annual  meeting, 
was  a  considerable  village  on  the  banks  of  lake  Superior. 
Here,  in  an  immense  wooden  building,  was  the  great  council 
hall,  as  also  the  banqueting  chamber,  decorated  with  Indian 
arms  and  accoutrements,  and  the  trophies  of  the  fur  trade. 
The  house  swarmed  at  this  time  with  traders  and  voyageurs, 
some  from  Montreal,  bound  to  the  interior  posts ;  some  from 
the  interior  posts,  bound  to  Montreal.  The  councils  were  held 
in  great  state,  for  every  member  felt  as  if  sitting  in  parliament, 
and  every  retainer  and  dependant  looked  up  to  the  assemblage 
with  awe,  as  to  the  house  of  lords.  There  was  a  vast  deal 
of  solemn  deliberation,  and  hard  Scottish  reasoning,  with  an 
occasional  swell  of  pompous  declamation. 

These  grave  and  weighty  councils  were  alternated  by  huge 
feasts  and  revels,  like  some  of  the  old  feasts  described  in  High- 
land castles.  The  tables  in  the  great  banqueting  room  groaned 
under  the  weight  of  game  of  all  kinds ;  of  venison  from  the 
woods,  and  fish  from  the  lakes,  with  hunters'  delicacies,  such 


3S. 

ipany  as  repre- 
ilves  in  suitable 
like  sovereigns 
chieftains  navi- 
ed  in  rich  furs, 
Qce  and  luxury, 
It  as  Highland 
ks  and  bakers, 
lance  of  choice 
at  convocation, 
h  some  distin- 
:  of  the  British 
sion,  and  grace 

nnual  meeting, 
lake  Superior, 
great  council 
d  with  Indian 
the  fur  trade, 
md  voyageurs, 
s ;  some  from 
icils  were  held 
in  parliament, 
he  assemblage 
as  a  vast  deal 
•ning,  with  an 

lated  by  huge 
ribed  in  High- 
room  groaned 
son  from  the 
licacies,  such 


'0 

i 


THE  GLORIES  OF  FORT  WILLIAM. 


25 


as  buffalo's  tongues,  and  beavers'  tails ;  and  various  luxuries 
from  Montreal,  all  served  up  by  experienced  cooks  brought  for 
■he  purpose.  There  was  no  stint  of  generous  wine,  for  it  was 
a  hard-drinking  period,  a  time  of  loyal  toasts,  and  bacchanalian 
songs,  and  brimming  bumpers. 

While  the  chiefs  thus  revelled  in  hall,  and  made  the  rafters 
resound  with  bursts  of  loyalty  and  old  Scottish  songs,  chaunted 
in  voices  cracked  and  sharpened  by  the  northern  blast,  their 
merriment  was  echoed  and  prolonged  by  a  mongrel  legion 
of  retainers,  Canadian  voyageurs,  half  breeds,  Indian  hunters, 
and  vagabond  hangers-on,  who  feasted  sumptuously  without 
on  the  crumbs  that  fell  from  their  table,  and  made  the  welkin 
ring  with  old  French  ditties,  mingled  with  Indian  yelps  and 
yellings. 

Such  was  the  North-west  Company  in  its  powerful  and 
prosperous  days,  when  it  held  a  kind  of  feudal  sway  over  a 
vast  domain  of  lake  and  forest.  We  are  dwelling  too  long, 
perhaps,  upon  these  individual  pictures,  endeared  to  us  by  the 
associations  of  early  life,  when,  as  yet  a  stripling  youth,  we  have 
sat  at  the  hospitable  boards  of  the  "  mighty  North-westers,"  then 
lords  of  the  ascendant  at  Montreal,  and  gazed  with  wondering 
and  inexperienced  eye  at  their  baronial  wassailing,  and  lis- 
tened with  astonished  ear  to  their  tales  of  hardships  and 
adventures.  It  is  one  object  of  our  task,  however,  to  present 
scenes  of  the  rough  life  of  the  wilderness,  and  we  are  tempted 
to  fix  these  few  memorials  of  a  transient  state  of  things  fast 
passing  into  oblivion  ;— for  the  feudal  state  of  Fort  William  is 
at  an  end;  its  council  chamber  is  silent  and  deserted;  its 
banquet  hall  no  longer  echoes  to  the  burst  of  loyalty,  or  the 
"  auld  world"  ditty ;  the  lords  of  the  lakes  and  forests  have 
passed  away;  and  the  hospitable  magnates  of  Montreal— 
where  are  they ! 


26 


RISE    or   THE    MACKINAW    COMPANY. 


CHAPTER  II. 

RisB  or  THE  Mackinaw  Company — attempt  op  the  American  govern- 
ment TO  counteract  foreign  influence  over  the  Indian  tribes — 
John  Jacob  Astor — his  birthplace — his  arrival  in  the  United 
States — what  first  turned  his  attention  to  the  fur  trade — his 
character,  enterprises,  and  success — his  communications  with 
the  American  government — origin  of  the  American  Fur  Company. 


The  success  of  the  North-west  Company  stimulated  further 
enterprise  in  this  opening  and  apparently  boundless  field  of 
profit.  The  traffic  of  that  company  lay  principally  in  the  high 
northern  latitudes,  while  there  were  immense  regions  to  the 
south  and  west,  known  to  abound  with  valuable  peltries ;  but 
which,  as  yet,  had  been  but  little  explored  by  the  fur  trader. 
A  new  association  of  British  merchants  was  therefore  formed, 
to  prosecute  the  trade  in  this  direction.  The  chief  factory  was 
established  at  the  old  emporium  of  Michilimackinac,  from  which 
place  the  association  took  its  name,  and  was  commonly  called 
the  Mackinaw  Company. 

While  the  North-westers  continued  to  push  their  enterprises 
into  the  hyperborean  regions  from  their  strong  hold  at  Fort 
William,  and  to  hold  almost  sovereign  sway  over  the  tribes  of 
the  upper  lakes  and  rivers,  the  Mackinaw  Company  sent  forth 
their  light  perogues  and  barks,  by  Green  bay.  Fox  river,  and 
the  Wisconsin,  to  that  great  artery  of  the  west,  the  Mississippi ; 
and  down  that  stream  to  all  its  tributary  rivers.  In  this  way 
they  hoped  soon  to  monopolize  the  trade  with  all  the  tribes  on 


:| 


i 
I 


JOHN    JACOB    ASTOR. 


27 


RICAN    GOVERN- 
IDIAN   TRIBES 

V  THE  United 

VR  TRADE — HIS 
[CATIONS     WITH 

?'uK  Company. 

lated  further 
less  field  of 
'  in  the  high 
jions  to  the 
teltries ;  but 
!  fur  trader, 
fore  formed, 
factory  was 
from  which 
lonly  called 

enterprises 
M  at  Fort 
le  tribes  of 
r  sent  forth 
:  river,  and 
[ississippi ; 
n  this  way 
e  tribes  on 


■4v 


ills 
J' 


the  southern  and  western  waters,  and  of  those  vast  tracts  com- 
prised in  ancient  Louisiana. 

The  government  of  the  United  States  began  to  view  with  a 
wary  eye  the  growing  influence  thus  acquired  by  combinations 
of  foreigners,  over  the  aboriginal  tribes  inhabiting  its  territories, 
and  endeavored  to  counteract  it.  For  this  purpose,  as  early  as 
1796,  the  government  sent  out  agents  to  establish  rival  trading 
houses  on  the  frontier,  so  as  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  Indians  ; 
to  link  their  interests  and  feelings  with  those  of  the  people  of 
the  United  States,  and  to  divert  this  important  branch  of  trade 
into  national  channels. 

The  expedient,  however,  was  imsuccessful,  as  most  commer- 
cial expedients  are  prone  to  be,  where  the  dull  patronage  of 
government  is  counted  upon  to  outvie  the  keen  activity  of  pri- 
vate enterprise.  What  government  failed  to  eflect,  however, 
with  all  its  patronage  and  all  its  agents,  was  at  length  brought 
about  by  the  enterprise  and  perseverance  of  a  single  merchant, 
one  of  its  adopted  citizens  ;  and  this  brings  us  to  speak  of  the 
individual  whose  enterprise  is  the  especial  subject  of  the  fol- 
lowing pages ;  a  man  whose  name  and  character  are  worthy 
of  being  enrolled  in  the  history  of  commerce,  as  illustrating  its 
noblest  aims  and  soundest  maxims.  A  few  brief  anecdotes  of 
his  early  life,  and  of  the  circumstances  which  first  determined 
him  to  the  branch  of  commerce  of  which  we  are  treating,  can- 
not but  be  interestino. 

John  .Tacob  Astor,  the  individual  in  question,  was  born  in  the 
honest  little  German  village  of  Waldorf,  near  Heidelberg,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Rhine.  He  was  brought  up  in  the  simplicity 
of  rural  life,  but,  while  yet  a  mere  stripling,  left  his  home,  and 
launched  himself  amid  the  busy  scenes  of  London,  having  had, 
from  his  very  boyhood,  a  singular  presentiment  that  he  would 
ultimately  arrive  at  great  fortune. 


)1 
ll 


28 


HIS    FIRST    ARRIVAL   IN    AMERICA. 


At  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution  he  was  still  in  Lon- 
don, and  scarce  on  the  threshold  of  active  life.  An  elder  brother 
had  been  for  some  few  years  resident  in  the  United  States,  and 
Mr.  Astor  determined  to  follow  him,  and  to  seek  his  fortunes  in 
the  rising  country.  Investing  a  small  sum  which  he  had  amassed 
since  leaving  his  native  village,  in  merchandise  suited  to  the 
American  market,  he  embarked,  in  the  month  of  November, 
1783,  in  a  ship  bound  to  Baltimore,  and  arrived  in  Hampton 
Roads  in  the  month  of  January.  The  winter  was  extremely 
severe,  and  the  ship,  with  many  others,  was  detained  by  the  ice 
in  and  about  Chesapeake  bay  for  nearly  three  months. 

During  this  period,  the  passengers  of  the  various  ships  used 
occasionally  to  go  on  shore,  and  mingle  sociably  together.  In 
this  way  Mr.  Astor  became  acquainted  with  a  countryman  of 
his,  a  furrier  by  trade.  Having  had  a  previous  impression  that 
this  might  be  a  lucrative  trade  in  the  new  world,  he  made  many 
inquiries  of  his  new  acquaintance  on  the  subject,  Avho  cheer- 
fully gave  him  all  the  information  in  his  power  as  to  the  quality 
and  value  of  different  furs,  and  the  mode  of  carrying  on  the 
traffic.  He  subsequently  accompanied  him  to  New  York,  and, 
by  his  advice,  Mr.  Astor  was  induced  to  invest  the  proceeds 
of  his  merchandise  in  furs.  With  these  he  sailed  from  New 
York  to  London  in  1784,  disposed  of  them  advantageously, 
made  himself  further  acquainted  with  the  course  of  the  trade, 
and  returned  the  same  year  to  New  York,  with  a  view  to  set- 
tle in  the  United  States. 

He  now  devoted  himself  to  the  branch  of  commerce  with 
which  he  had  thus  casually  been  made  acquainted.  He  began 
his  career,  of  course,  on  the  narrowest  scale  ;  but  he  brought 
to  the  to,sk  a  persevering  industry,  rigid  economy,  and  strict 
integrity.  To  these  were  added  an  aspiring  spirit  that  always 
looked  upward ;  a  genius  bold,  fertile,  and  expansive  ;  a  saga- 


DEALINGS    IN    CANADA. 


89 


3  Still  in  Lon- 
i  elder  brother 
id  States,  and 
is  fortunes  in 
I  had  amassed 
suited  to  the 
>f  November, 

in  Hampton 
as  extremely 
led  by  the  ice 
nths. 

js  ships  used 
ogether.  In 
juntryman  of 
prcssion  that 
B  made  many 
,  Avho  cheer- 
0  the  quality 
ying  on  the 

York,  and, 
le  proceeds 
from  New 
mtageously, 

■  the  trade, 

view  to  set- 


city  quick  to  grasp  and  convert  every  circumstance  to  its  advan- 
tage, and  a  singular  and  never  wavering  confidence  of  signal 

success.* 

As  yet,  trade  in  peltries  was  not  organized  in  the  United 
States,  and  could  not  be  said  to  form  a  regular  line  of  business. 
Furs  and  skins  were  casually  collected  by  the  country  traders 
in  their  deaUngs  with  the  Indians  or  the  white  hunters,  but  the 
main  supply  was  derived  from  Canada.  As  Mr.  Astor's  means 
increased,  he  made  annual  visits  to  Montreal,  where  he  pur- 
chased furs  from  the  houses  at  that  place  engaged  in  the  trade. 
These  he  shipped  from  Canada  to  London,  no  direct  trade  be- 
ing allowed  from  that  colony  to  any  but  the  mother  country. 

In  1794  or  '.5,  a  treaty  with  Great  Britain  removed  the  re- 
strictions imposed  upon  the  trade  with  the  colonies,  and  opened 
a  direct  commercial  intercourse  between  Canada  and  the  United 
States.  Mr.  Astor  was  in  London  at  the  time,  and  immediately 
made  a  contract  with  the  agents  of  the  North-west  Company 
for  furs.  He  was  now  enabled  to  import  them  from  Montreal 
into  the  United  States  for  the  home  supply,  and  to  be  shipped 
thence  to  different  parts  of  Europe,  as  well  as  to  China,  which 
has  ever  been  the  best  market  for  the  richest  and  finest  kinds 
of  peltry. 

The  treaty  in  question  provided,  likewise,  that  the  military 
posts  occupied  by  the  British  within  the  territorial  limits  of  the 
United  States,  should  be  surrendered.  Accordingly,  Oswego, 
Niagara,  Detroit,  Michilimackinac,  and  other  posts  on  the  Amer- 


tnerce  with 
He  began 
he  brought 
,  and  strict 
hat  always 
e  ;  a  saga- 


*  An  instance  of  this  buoyant  confidence,  whicli  no  doubt  aided  to  pro- 
duce the  success  it  anticipated,  wc  liavc  from  the  lips  of  Mr.  A.  himscir. 
WlJle  yet  almost  a  stranger  in  the  city,  and  in  very  narrow  circumstances, 
he  passed  by  where  a  row  of  houses  had  just  been  erected  in  Broadway,  and 
which,  from  the  superior  stylo  of  tlieir  architecture,  were  the  talk  and  boast 
of  the  city.  "  I  '11  build,  one  day  or  other,  a  greater  house  than  any  of  these, 
in  tills  very  street,"  said  he  to  himself.    He  has  accomplished  his  prediction. 

3* 


'I' 


^^^m>- 


n      • 


1  I 


30 


FOUNDS    THE    AMERICAN    FUR    COMPANY. 


ican  side  of  the  lakes,  were  given  up.  An  opening  was  thus 
made  for  the  American  merchant  to  a  trade  on  tlie  confines  of 
Canada,  and  within  the  territories  of  the  United  States.  After 
an  interval  of  some  years,  about  1807,  Mr.  Astor  embarked  in 
this  trade  on  his  own  account.  His  capital  and  resources  had 
by  this  time  greatly  augmented,  and  he  had  risen  from  small 
beginnings  to  take  his  place  among  the  first  merchants  and 
financiers  of  the  country.  His  genius  had  ever  been  in  ad- 
vance of  his  circumstances,  prompting  him  to  new  and  wide 
lields  of  enterprise  beyond  the  scope  of  ordinary  merchants. 
With  all  his  enterprise  and  resources,  however,  he  soon  found 
the  power  and  influence  of  the  Michilimackinac  (or  Mackinaw) 
C'ompany  too  great  for  him,  having  engrossed  most  of  the  trade 
within  the  American  borders. 

A  plan  had  to  be  devised  to  enable  him  to  enter  into  success- 
ful competition.  He  was  aware  of  the  wish  of  the  American 
government,  already  stated,  that  the  fur  trade  within  its  boun- 
daries should  be  in  the  hands  of  American  citizens,  and  of  the 
ineflectual  measures  it  had  taken  to  accomplish  that  object. 
He  now  offered,  if  aided  and  protected  by  government,  to  turn 
the  whole  of  that  trade  into  American  channels.  He  was  in- 
vited to  unfold  his  nl^ns  to  government,  and  they  were  warmly 
approved,  though  the  executive  could  give  no  direct  aid. 

Thus  countenanced,  however,  he  obtained  in  1809,  a  charter 
from  the  legislature  of  the  state  of  New  York,  incorporating 
a  company  under  the  name  of  "  The  American  Fur  Company," 
with  a  capital  of  one  million  of  dollars,  with  the  privilege  of 
increasing  it  to  two  millions.  The  capital  Avas  furnished  by 
himself — he,  in  fact,  constituted  the  company ;  for,  though  he 
had  a  board  of  directors,  they  were  merely  nominal ;  the 
whole  business  was  conducted  on  his  plans,  and  with  his  re- 
sources, but  he  preferred  to  do  so  under  the  imposing  and  for- 


VI! 


S'Y. 


SOUTH-WEST    COMPANY. 


81 


ing  was  thus 
e  confines  of 
tates.     After 
embarked  in 
^sources  had 
I  from  small 
!rchants  and 
been  in  ad- 
w  and  wide 
'  merchants. 
3  soon  found 
'  Mackinaw) 
of  the  trade 

nto  success- 
e  American 
tin  its  boun- 
,  and  of  the 
that  object, 
lent,  to  turn 
He  was  in- 
ere  warmly 
;  aid. 

9,  a  charter 
corporating 
Company," 
rivilege  of 
irnished  by 
though  he 
ninal ;  the 
ith  his  re- 
ig  and  for- 


midable aspect  of  a  corporation,  rather  than  in  his  individual 
name,  and  his  policy  was  sagacious  and  eflective. 

As  the  Mackinaw  Company  still  continued  its  rivalry,  and 
as  the  fur  trade  would  not  advantageously  admit  of  competi- 
tion, he  made  a  new  arrangement  in  1811,  by  which,  in  con- 
junction with  certain  partners  of  the  North-west  Company,  and 
other  persons  engaged  in  the  fur  trade,  he  bought  out  the  Mack- 
inaw Company,  and  merged  that  and  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany into  a  new  association,  to  be  called  "  The  South-west 
Company."  This  he  likewise  did  with  the  privity  and  appro- 
l)ation  of  the  American  government. 

By  this  arrangement  Mr.  Astor  became  proprietor  of  one  half 
of  the  Indian  establishments  and  goods  which  the  Mackinaw 
Company  had  within  the  territory  of  the  Indian  country  in  the 
United  States,  and  it  was  understood  that  the  whole  was  to  be 
surrendered  into  his  hands  at  the  expiration  of  five  years,  on 
condition  that  the  American  company  would  not  trade  within 
tlie  British  dominions. 

Unluckily,  the  war  which  broke  out  in  1812  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States  suspended  the  association ;  and, 
after  the  war,  it  was  entirely  dissolved  ;  congress  having  passed 
a  law  prohibiting  British  fur  traders  from  prosecuting  their  en- 
terprises within  the  territories  of  the  United  States. 


Ww 


32 


PUR    TRADE    IN    THE    PACIFIC. 


I      ( 


!      f 


CHAPTER    III. 

Fur   trade   in   the    Pacifu; — American   coasting   voyages — Russian 

ENTERPRISES — DISCOVERV  01'  THE  COLUMBIA   RIVER CaRVER's    PROJECT 

TO     FOUND     A     SETTLEMENT     THERE MACKENZIE'S     EXPEDITION LeWIS 

AND  Clarke's  journey  across  the  Rocky  mountains — Mr.  Astor's 

GRAND     commercial     SCHEME — HIS     CORRESPONDENCE     ON     THE     SUBJECT 

WITH    Mr.   Jefkerson — his    negoti.\tions    WITH    THE    North-west 
Company — his  steps  to  carry  his  scheme  into  efpect. 


I       ! 

t! 

i  \ 
I-  I 

I  , 


While  the  various  companies  we  have  noticed  were  pushing 
their  enterprises  far  and  wide  in  the  wilds  of  Canada,  and 
along  the  course  of  the  great  Avestern  waters,  other  adven- 
turers, intent  on  the  same  ol)jocts,  were  traversing  the  watery 
wastes  of  the   Pacific   and  skirting  the  north-west  coast  of 
America.     The  last  voyage  of  that  renowned  but  unfortunate 
discoverer.  Captain  Cook,  had  made  known  the  vast  quantities 
of  the  sea  otter  to  be  found  along  that  coast,  and  the  immense 
prices  to  be  obtained  for  its  fur  in  China.     It  was  as  if  a 
new  gold  coast  had  been  discovered.    Individuals  from  various 
countries  dashed  into  this  lucrative  traffic,  so  that  in  the  year 
1792,  there  Avere  twenty-one  vessels  under  different   flags, 
plying  along  the  coast  and  trading  with  the  natives.     The 
greater  part  of  them  were  American,  and  owned  by  Boston 
merchants.     They  generally  remained  on  the  coast,  and  about 
the  adjacent  seas  for  two  years,  carrying  on  as  wandering  and 
adventurous  a  commerce  on  the  water  as  did  the  traders  and 
trappers  on  land.     Their  trade  extended  along  the  whole  coast 


4; 


RUSSIAN    ENTERPIIISES. 


3;? 


s — Russian 
k's  project 
ION — Lewis 
Ir.  Astor's 
he  subject 
ortii-west 


'  pushing 
tiada,  and 
'r  aclven- 
le  watery 
coast  of 
fortunate 
[uantities 
immense 

as  if  a 
I  various 
he  year 
It  flags, 
5.     The 

Boston 
d  about 
ng  and 
5rs  and 
e  coast 


from  Cahfornia  to  tlie  high  northern  hititudes.  They  would 
rim  in  near  shore,  anchor,  and  wait  for  the  natives  to  come 
oil'  in  their  canoes  with  peUries.  The  trade  exhausted  at  one 
place,  they  would  up  anchor  and  off  to  another.  In  this  way 
they  would  consume  tlie  nmnmer,  and  when  autumn  came  on, 
would  run  down  to  the  Sandwich  islands  and  winter  in  some 
friendly  and  plentiful  harbor.  In  the  following  year  they 
would  resume  their  sununer  trade,  commencing  at  California 
and  proceeding  north ;  and,  having  in  the  course  of  the  two 
seasons,  collected  a  sulficient  cargo  of  peltries,  would  make 
the  best  of  their  way  to  China.  Here  they  would  sell  their 
furs,  take  in  teas,  nankeens,  and  other  merchandize,  and  return 
to  Boston,  after  an  absence  of  two  or  three  years. 

The  people,  however,  who  entered  most  extensively  and 
eflectively  in  the  fur  trade  of  the  Pacific,  were  the  Russians. 
Instead  of  making  casual  voyages,  in  transient  ships,  they 
established  regular  trading  houses  in  the  high  latitudes,  along 
the  north-west  coast  of  America,  and  upon  the  chain  of  the 
Aleutian  islands  between  Kamtschatka  and  the  promontory 
of  Alaska. 

To  promote  and  protect  these  enterprises,  a  company  was 
incorporated  by  the  Russian  government  with  exclusive  privi- 
leges, and  a  capital  of  two  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  pounds 
sterling ;  and  the  sovereignty  of  that  part  of  the  American 
continent,  along  the  coast  of  which  the  posts  had  been  estab- 
lished, was  claimed  by  the  Russian  crown,  on  the  plea  that 
the  land  had  been  discovered  and  occupied  by  its  subjects. 

As  China  was  the  grand  mart  for  the  furs  collected  in  these 
quarters,  the  Russians  had  the  advantage  over  their  competitors 
in  the  trade.  The  latter  had  to  take  their  peltries  to  Canton, 
which,  however,  was  a  mere  receiving  mart,  from  whence  they 
had  to  be  distributed  over  the  interior  of  the  empire  and  sent 


1  I 
I  I 


i     I 

■    'J 


'1     Ji 


■;!  '! 


(I 

i   i\ 


34 


DISCOVERY    OF    THE    COLUMBIA. 


to  the  northorn  parts,  where  there  was  the  chief  consumption. 
'I'lie  Russians,  on  the  contrary,  carried  their  furs,  by  a  shorter 
voyage,  directly  to  the  nortliern  parts  of  the  Chinese  empire  ; 
thus  bcinj(  able  to  aflbrd  thorn  in  the  market  without  the  addi- 
tional cost  of  internal  transportation. 

We  now  come  to  the  immediate  field  of  operation  of  the 
great  enterprise  we  have  undertaken  to  illustrate. 

Among  the  American  ships  which  traded  along  the  north- 
west coast  in  1792,  was  the  Columbia,  Captain  Gray,  of 
Boston.  In  the  course  of  her  voyage  she  discovered  the 
mouth  of  a  large  river  in  hit.  46°  19'  north.  Entering  it  with 
some  difhculty,  on  account  of  sand  bars  and  breakers,  she 
came  to  anchor  in  a  spacious  bay.  A  boat  was  well  manned, 
and  sent  on  shore  to  a  village  on  the  beach,  but  all  the  inhab- 
itants tied  excepting  the  aged  and  infirm.  The  kind  manner 
in  which  these  were  treated,  and  the  presents  given  to  them, 
gradually  lured  back  the  others,  and  a  friendly  intercourse  took 
place.  They  had  never  seen  a  ship  or  a  white  man.  When 
they  had  first  descried  the  Columbia,  they  had  supposed  it  a 
floating  island ;  then  some  monster  of  the  deep ;  but  when 
they  saw  the  boat  putting  for  shore  with  human  beings  on 
board,  they  considered  them  cannibals  sent  by  the  great  Spirit 
to  ravage  the  country  and  devour  the  inhabitants.  Captain 
Gray  did  not  ascend  the  river  farther  than  the  bay  in  question, 
which  continues  to  bear  his  name.  After  putting  to  sea,  he  fell 
in  with  the  celebrated  discoverer,  Vancouver,  and  informed 
him  of  his  discovery,  furnishing  him  with  a  chart  which  he 
had  made  of  the  river.  Vancouver  visited  the  river,  and  his 
lieutenant,  Broughton,  explored  it  by  the  aid  of  Captain  Gray's 
chart ;  ascending  it  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles,  until  within 
view  of  a  snowy  mountain,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of 
Mount  Hood,  which  it  still  retains. 


M; 


carver's  project. 


35 


nnsuniption. 
jy  a  shorter 
Qse  empire ; 
lUt  the  addi- 

ation  of  the 

r  tlie  north- 

II  Gray,  of 

covered  the 

ring  it  with 

•eakers,  she 

rell  manned, 

11  the  inhab- 

kind  manner 

en  to  them, 

course  took 

an.     When 

pposed  it  a 

;  but  when 

beings  on 

great  Spirit 

Captain 

n  question, 

sea,  he  fell 

informed 

which  he 

|er,  and  his 

ain  Gray's 

ntil  within 

name  of 


The  exiatrncr  of  this  river,  however,  was  known  lony  be- 
fore the  visits  of  Gray  and  Vancouver,  but  the  information 
concerning  it  was  vague  and  indefinite,  being  gathered  from 
the  reports  of  Indians.  It  was  spoken  of  by  travellers  as  the 
Or«'gon,  and  as  the  great  river  of  the  west.  A  Spanish  ship 
is  said  to  have  been  wrecked  at  its  mouth,  several  of  the  crew 
of  which  lived  for  some  time  among  the  natives.  The  Co- 
lumbia, however,  is  believed  to  be  the  first  ship  that  made  a 
regular  discovery  and  anchored  within  its  waters,  and  it  has 
since  generally  borne  the  name  of  that  vessel. 

As  early  as  17G3,  shortly  after  the  acquisition  of  the 
Canadas  by  Great  Britain,  Captain  Jonathan  Carver,  who 
had  been  in  the  British  provincial  army,  projected  a  journey 
across  the  continent  between  the  forty-third  and  forty-sixth 
degrees  of  northern  latitude,  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  ocean. 
His  objects  were  to  ascertain  the  breadth  of  the  continent 
at  its  broadest  part,  and  to  determine  on  some  place  on  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific,  where  government  might  establish  a 
post  to  facilitate  the  discovery  of  a  north-west  passage,  or  a 
communication  between  Hudson's  bay  and  the  Pacific  ocean. 
This  place  he  presumed  would  be  somewhere  about  the  straits 
of  Annian,  at  which  point  he  supposed  the  Oregon  disem- 
bogued itself.  It  was  his  opinion,  also,  that  a  settlement  on 
this  extremity  of  America  woiUd  disclose  new  sources  of  trade, 
promote  many  useful  discoveries,  and  open  a  more  direct  com- 
munication with  China  and  the  English  settlements  in  the 
East  Indies,  than  that  by  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  or  the  straits 
of  Magellan.*  This  enterprising  and  intrepid  traveller  was 
twice  baffled  in  individual  efforts  to  accomplish  this  great 
journey.     In  1774,  he  was  joined  in  the  scheme  by  Richard 


*  Carver's  Travels,  Introd.  p.  iii.    Philad.  1796. 


fHI 


I  I 


36 


MACKENZIE  S    EXPEDITION. 


Whitworth,  a  member  of  parliament,  and  a  man  of  wealth. 
Their  enterprise  was  projected  on  a  broad  and  bold  plan. 
They  were  to  take  with  them  fifty  or  sixty  men,  artificers  and 
mariners.  With  these  they  were  to  make  their  way  up  one 
of  the  branches  of  the  Missouri,  explore  the  mountains  for 
the  source  of  the  Oregon,  or  river  of  the  west,  and  sail  down 
that  river  to  its  supposed  exit  near  the  straits  of  Annian.  Here 
they  were  to  erect  a  fort,  and  build  the  vessels  necessary  to 
carry  their  discoveries  by  sea  into  effect.  Their  plan  had 
the  sanction  of  the  British  government,  and  grants  and  other 
requisites  were  nearly  completed,  when  the  breakinor  out  of 
the  American  revolution  once  more  defeated  the  undertaking.* 

The  expedition  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  1793,  across 
the  continent  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  which  he  reached  in 
lat.  52°  20'  48",  again  suggested  the  possibility  of  linking  to- 
gether the  trade  of  both  sides  of  the  continent.  In  lat.  52°  30' 
he  had  descended  a  river  for  some  distance  which  flowed 
towards  the  south,  and  was  called  by  the  natives  Tacoutche 
Tesse,  and  which  he  erroneously  supposed  to  be  the  Co- 
lumbia. It  was  afterwards  ascertained  that  it  emptied  itself 
in  lat.  49',  whereas  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  is  about  three 
decrees  further  south. 

When  Mackenzie  some  years  subsequently  published  an 
account  of  his  expeditions,  he  suggested  the  policy  of  opening 
an  intercourse  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans,  and 
forming  regular  establishments  through  the  interior  and  at  both 
extremes,  as  well  as  along  the  coasts  and  islands.  By  this 
means,  he  observed,  the  entire  command  of  the  fur  trade  of 
North  America  might  be  obtained  from  latitude  48'  north,  to 
the  pole,  excepting  that  portion  held  by  the  Russians,  for  as 


*  Can',  ''s  Travels,  p.  360.    Philad.  1796. 


■■* 


EXPEDITION    OP    LEWIS    AND    CLARKE. 


37 


in  of  wealth, 
id  bold  plan, 
artificers  and 
•  way  up  one 
nountains  for 
nd  sail  down 
.nnian.    Here 
necessary  to 
leir  plan  had 
Its  and  other 
iakino'  out  of 
undertaking.* 
1  1793,  across 
3   reached   in 
of  linking  to- 
[n  lat.  52°  30' 
which  flowed 
fes  Tacoutche 
3  be  the  Co- 
emptied  itself 
is  about  three 

published  an 
icy  of  opening 
ic  oceans,  and 
ior  and  at  both 
inds.  By  this 
e  fur  trade  of 
B  48'  north,  to 
ussians,  for  as 


to  the  American  adventurers  who  had  hitherto  enjoyed  the 
traffic  along  the  north-west  coast,  they  would  instantly  dis- 
appear, he  added,  before  a  well  regulated  trade. 

A  scheme  of  this  kind,  however,  was  too  vast  and  hazardous 
for  individual  enterprise  ;  it  could  only  be  undertaken  by  a 
company  under  the  sanction  and  protection  of  a  government ; 
and  as  there  might  be  a  clashing  of  claims  between  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  and  North-west  Company,  the  one  holding  by  right 
of  charter,  the  other  by  right  of  possession,  he  proposed  that 
the  two  companies  should  coalesce  in  this  great  undertaking. 
The  long  cherished  jealousies  of  these  two  companies,  how- 
ever, were  too  deep  and  strong  to  allow  them  to  listen  to  such 
council. 

In  the  mean  time  the  attention  of  the  American  government 
was  attracted  to  the   subject,  and  the  memorable  expedition 
under  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke,  fitted  out.     These  gentlemen, 
in  1804,  accomplished  the   enterprise  which  had   been  pro- 
jected by  Carver  and  VVhitworth,  in  1774.     They  ascended 
the   Missouri,  passed   through   the   stupendous   gates  of   the 
Rocky  mountains,  hitherto  unknown  to  white  man  ;  discovered 
and  explored  the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia,  and  followed 
that  river  down  to  its  mouth,  where  their  countryman,  Gray, 
had   anchored   about   twelve   years   previously.      Here   they 
passed  the  winter,  and  returned  across  the  mountains  in  the 
following  spring.     The  reports  published  by  them  of  their 
expedition,  demonstrated  the  practicability  of  establishing  a 
line  of  communication  across  the  continent,  from  the  Atlantic 
to  the  Pacific  ocean. 

It  was  then  that  the  idea  presented  itself  to  the  mind  of 
Mr.  Astor,  of  grasping  with  his  individual  hand,  this  great 
enterprise,  which  for  years  had  been  dubiously  yet  desirously 
contemplated  by  powerful  associations  and  maternal  govern- 


nir'iir 


38 


SCHEME    OF    MR.  ASTOR. 


ments.  For  some  time  he  revolved  the  idea  in  his  mind, 
gradually  extending  and  maturing  his  plans  as  his  means  of 
executing  them  augmented.  The  main  feature  of  his  scheme 
was  to  establish  a  line  of  trading  posts  along  the  Missouri 
and  the  Columbia,  to  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  where  was  to 
be  founded  the  chief  trading  house  or  mart.  Inferior  posts 
would  be  established  in  the  interior,  and  on  all  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Columbia,  to  trade  with  the  Indians ;  these 
posts  would  draw  their  supplies  from  the  main  establishment, 
and  bring  to  it  the  peltries  they  collected.  Coasting  craft 
would  be  built  and  fitted  out,  also,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, to  trade,  at  favorable  seasons,  all  along  the  north-west 
coast,  and  return,  with  the  proceeds  of  their  voyages,  to  this 
place  of  deposite.  Thus  all  the  Indian  trade,  both  of  the  inte- 
rior and  the  coast,  would  converge  to  this  point,  and  thence 
derive  its  sustenance. 

A  ship  was  to  be  sent  annually  from  New  York  to  this  main 
establishment  with  re-enforcements  and  supplies,  and  with  mer- 
chandize suited  to  the  trade.  It  would  take  on  board  the  fiu"s 
collected  during  the  preceding  year,  carry  them  to  Canton,  in- 
vest the  proceeds  in  the  rich  merchandize  of  China,  and  return 
thus  freighted  to  New  York. 

As,  in  extending  the  American  trade  along  the  coast  to  the 
northward,  it  might  be  brought  into  the  vicinity  of  the  Russian 
Fur  Company,  and  produce  a  hostile  rivalry,  it  was  part  of  the 
plan  of  Mr.  Astor  to  conciliate  the  good  will  of  that  company 
by  the  most  amicable  and  beneficial  arrangements.  The  Rus- 
sian establishment  was  chiefly  dependant  for  its  supplies  upon 
transient  trading  vessels  from  the  United  States.  These  ves- 
sels, however,  were  often  of  more  harm  than  advantage.  Be- 
ing owned  by  private  adventurers,  or  casual  voyagers,  who  cared 
only  for  present  profit,  and  had  no  interest  iu  the  permanent 


.£ 


^ 


SCHEME    OF    MR.  ASTOR. 


39 


his  mind, 
i  means  of 
lis  scheme 
e  Missouri 
ere  was  to 
erior  posts 
le  tributary 
ans ;   these 
ablishment, 
isting  craft 
of  the  Co- 
north-west 
iges,  to  this 
of  the  inte- 
and  thence 

to  this  main 

with  mer- 

ard  the  furs 

Canton,  in- 

and  return 

coast  to  the 

the  Russian 

part  of  the 

at  company 

The  Rus- 

pplies  upon 

These  ves- 

[itage.     Be- 

,  who  cared 

permanent 


prosperity  of  the  trade,  they  were  reckless  in  their  dealings 
with  the  natives,  and  made  no  scruple  of  supplying  them  with 
fire-arms.  In  this  way  several  fierce  tribes  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Russian  posts,  or  within  the  range  of  their  trading  excur- 
sions, were  furnished  with  deadly  means  of  warfare,  and  ren- 
dered troublesome  and  dangerous  neighbors. 

The  Russian  government  had  made  representations  to  that 
of  the  United  States  of  these  malpractices  on  the  part  of  its 
citizens,  and  urged  to  have  this  traffic  in  arms  prohibited  ;  but, 
as  it  did  not  infringe  any  municipal  law,  our  government  could 
not  interfere.  Yet  still  it  regarded,  with  solicitude,  a  traffic  which, 
if  persisted  in,  might  give  offence  to  Russia,  at  that  time  almost 
the  only  power  friendly  to  us.  In  this  dilemma  the  government 
had  applied  to  Mr.  Astor,  as  one  conversant  in  this  branch  of 
trade,  for  information  that  might  point  out  a  way  to  remedy  the 
evil.  This  circumstance  had  suggested  to  him  the  idea  of  sup- 
plying the  Russian  establishment  regularly  by  means  of  the 
annual  ship  that  should  visit  the  settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  (or  Oregon) ;  by  this  means  the  casual  trading  ves- 
sels would  be  excluded  from  those  parts  of  the  coast  where 
their  malpractices  were  so  injurious  to  the  Russians, 

Such  is  a  brief  outline  of  the  enterprise  projected  by  Mr. 
Astor,  but  which  continually  expanded  in  his  mind.  Indeed 
it  is  due  to  him  to  say  that  he  was  not  actuated  by  mere  mo- 
tives of  individual  profit.  He  was  already  wealthy  beyond  the 
ordinary  desires  of  man,  but  he  now  aspired  to  that  honorable 
fame  which  is  awarded  to  men  of  similar  scope  of  mind,  who 
by  their  great  commercial  enterprises  have  enriched  nations, 
peopled  wildernesses,  and  extended  the  bounds  of  empire.  He 
considered  his  projected  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia as  the  emporium  to  an  immense  commerce  ;  as  a  colony 
that  would  form  the  germ  of  a  wide  civilization  ;  that  would,  in 


1! — '• 


'm 


!    i 


I    i 


f    I 


i  ?! 


40 


LETTER    OF    MR.    JEFFERSON. 


fact,  carry  the  American  population  across  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains and  spread  it  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  as  it  already 
animated  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic. 

As  Mr.  Astor  by  the  magnitude  of  his  commercial  and  finan- 
cial relations,  and  the  vigor  and  scope  of  his  self-taught  mind, 
had  elevated  himself  into  the  consideration  of  government  and 
the  communion  and  correspondence  with  leading  statesmen, 
he,  at  an  early  period,  communicated  his  schemes  to  President 
Jefferson,  soliciting  the  countenance  of  government.  How 
highly  they  were  esteemed  by  that  eminent  man,  we  may  judge 
by  the  following  passage,  written  by  him  some  time  after- 
wards to  Mr.  Astor. 

"  I  remember  well  having  invited  your  proposition  on  this 
subject,*  and  encouraged  it  with  the  assurance  of  every  facility 
and  protection  which  the  government  could  properly  aflx>rd.  I 
considered,  as  a  great  public  acquisition,  the  commencement 
of  a  settlement  on  that  point  of  the  western  coast  of  America, 
and  looked  forward  with  gratification  to  the  time  when  its  de- 
scendants should  have  spread  themselves  through  the  whole 
length  of  that  coast,  covering  it  with  free  and  independent 
Americans,  unconnected  with  us  but  by  the  ties  of  blood  and 
interest,  and  enjoying  like  us  the  rights  of  self-government." 

The  cabinet  joined  with  Mr.  Jefferson  in  warm  approbation 
of  the  plan,  and  held  out  assurance  of  every  protection  that 
could,  consistently  with  general  policy,  be  afforded. 

Mr.  Astor  now  prepared  to  carry  his  scheme  into  prompt 
execution.     He  had  some  competition,  however,  to  apprehend 


*  On  this  point  Mr.  Jefferson's  memory  was  in  error.  The  proposition 
alluded  to  was  the  one,  already  mentioned,  for  the  establishment  of  an  Amer- 
ican Fur  Company  in  the  Atlantic  states.  The  great  enterprise  beyond  the 
mountains,  that  was  to  sweep  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  originated  in  the  mind 
of  Mr.  Astor,  and  was  proposed  by  him  to  the  government. 


^l 


^f 


NEW   CALEDONIA. 


41 


:ocky  moun- 
as  it  already 

al  and  finan- 
•taught  mind, 
^eminent  and 
2  statesmen, 
to  President 
ment.  How 
ve  may  judge 
Q  time  after- 

lition  on  this 
every  facility 
rly  afford.     I 
mmencernent 
of  America, 
when  its  de- 
1  the  whole 
independent 
of  blood  and 
)vernment." 
1  approbation 
otection  that 
Id. 
into  prompt 
to  apprehend 


The  proposition 
cnt  of  an  Atner- 
)rise  beyond  the 
ated  in  the  mind 


and  guard  against.  The  North-west  Company,  acting  feebly 
and  partially  upon  the  suggestions  of  its  former  agent,  Sir  Alex- 
ander Mackenzie,  had  pushed  one  or  two  advanced  trading  posts 
across  the  Rocky  mountains,  into  a  tract  of  country  visited  by  that 
enterprising  traveller,  and  since  named  New  Caledonia.  This 
tract  lay  about  two  degrees  north  of  the  Columbia,  and  inter- 
vened between  the  territories  of  the  United  States  and  those  of 
Russia.  Its  length  was  about  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and 
its  breadth,  from  the  mountains  to  the  Pacific,  from  ihree  hun- 
dred to  three  hundred  and  fifty  geographical  miles. 

Should  the  North-west  Company  persist  in  extending  their 
trade  in  that  quarter,  their  competition  might  be  of  serious  det- 
riment to  the  plans  of  Mr.  Astor.  It  is  true  they  would  con- 
tend with  him  to  a  vast  disadvantage,  from  the  checks  and  re- 
strictions to  which  they  were  subjected.  They  were  straitened 
on  one  side  by  the  rivalry  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  then 
they  had  no  good  post  on  the  Pacific  where  they  could  receive 
supplies  by  sea  for  their  establishments  beyond  the  mountains  ; 
nor,  if  they  had  one,  could  they  ship  their  furs  thence  to  China, 
that  great  mart  for  peltries  ;  the  Chinese  trade  being  comprised 
in  the  monopoly  of  the  East  India  Company.  Their  posts  be- 
yond the  mountains  had  to  be  supplied  in  yearly  expeditions, 
like  caravans,  from  Montreal,  and  the  furs  conveyed  back  in 
the  same  way,  by  long,  precarious,  and  expensive  routes,  across 
the  continent.  Mr.  Astor,  on  the  contrary,  would  be  able  to 
supply  his  proposed  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
by  sea,  and  to  ship  the  furs  collected  there  directly  to  China, 
so  as  to  undersell  the  North-west  Company  in  the  great  Chi- 
nese market. 

Still,  the  competition  of  two  rival  companies  west  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  could  not  but  prove  detrimental  to  both,  and 

fraught  with  those  evils,  both  to  the  trade  and  to  the  Indians, 

4* 


42 


NEGOTIATIONS    WITH    THE    N.  W.  COMPANY. 


■4 


i 


il\ 


i  I 


that  had  attended  similar  rivalries  in  the  Canadas.  To  prevent 
any  contest  of  the  kind,  therefore,  he  made  known  his  plan  to 
the  agents  of  the  North-west  Company,  and  proposed  to  in- 
terest them,  to  the  extent  of  one  third,  in  the  trade  thus  to  be 
opened.  8ome  correspondence  and  negotiation  ensued.  The 
company  were  aware  of  the  advantages  which  would  be  pos- 
sessed i*y  Mr.  Astor  should  he  be  able  to  carry  his  scheme 
into  efl'ect ;  but  they  anticipated  a  monopoly  of  the  trade  be- 
yond the  mountains  by  their  establishments  in  New  Caledonia, 
and  were  loth  to  share  it  with  an  individual  who  had  already 
proved  a  formidable  competitor  in  the  Atlantic  trade.  They 
hoped,  too,  by  a  timely  move,  to  secure  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia before  Mr.  Astor  would  be  able  to  put  his  plans  into 
operation  ;  and,  that  key  to  the  internal  trade  once  in  their  pos- 
session, the  whole  country  would  be  at  their  command.  After 
some  negotiation  and  delay,  therefore,  they  declined  the  propo- 
ition  that  had  been  made  to  them,  but  subsequently  dispatched 
a  party  for  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  to  establish  a  post  there 
before  any  expedition  sent  out  by  Mr.  Astor  might  arrive. 

In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Astor  finding  his  overtures  rejected,  pro- 
ceeded fearlessly  to  execute  his  enterprise  in  face  of  the  whole 
power  of  the  North-west  Company.  His  main  establishment 
once  planted  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  he  looked  with  confi- 
dence to  ultimate  success.  Being  able  to  re-enforce  and  supply 
it  amply  by  sea,  he  woidd  push  his  interior  posts  in  every  direc- 
tion up  the  rivers  and  along  the  coast ;  supplying  the  natives  at  a 
lower  rate,  and  thus  gradually  obliging  the  North-west  Company 
to  give  up  the  competition,  relinquish  New  Caledonia,  and  retire 
to  the  other  side  of  the  mountains.  He  would  then  have  posses- 
sion of  tlie  trade,  not  merely  of  the  Columbia  and  its  tributa- 
ries, but  of  the  regions  farther  north,  quite  to  the  Russian  posses- 
sions.    Such  was  a  part  of  his  brilliant  and  comprehensive  plan. 


li  -fi. 


f 

•-'I 
1 


f. 


INY. 

To  prevent 
II  his  plan  to 
posed  to  in- 
e  tlius  to  be 
isued.  The 
ouUl  be  pos- 
his  scheme 
le  trade  be- 
V  Caledonia, 
had  already 
•ade.  They 
li  of  the  Co- 
is  plans  into 
in  their  pos- 
land.  After 
d  the  propo- 
y  dispatched 
a  post  there 
arrive, 
ejected,  pro- 
3f  the  whole 
stablishment 
d  with  confi- 
e  and  supply 
every  direc- 
!  natives  at  a 
;st  Company 
a,  and  retire 
lave  posses- 
its  tributa- 
sian  posses- 
lensive  plan. 


PACIFIC    FUR    COMPANY. 


43 


He  now  proceeded,  with  all  diligence,  to  procure  proper 
agents  and  coadjutors,  habituated  to  the  Indian  trade  and  to  the 
life  of  the  wilderness.  Among  the  clerks  of  the  North-west 
Company  were  several  of  great  capacity  and  experience,  who 
had  served  out  their  probationary  terms,  but  who,  either  through 
lack  of  interest  and  influence,  or  a  want  of  vacancies,  had  not 
been  promoted.  They  were  consequently  much  dissatisfied, 
and  ready  for  any  employment  in  which  their  talents  and  acquire- 
ments might  be  turned  to  better  account. 

Mr.  Astor  made  his  overtures  to  several  of  these  persons, 
and  three  of  them  entered  into  his  views.  One  of  these,  Mr. 
Alexander  M'Kay,  had  accompanied  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie 
in  both  of  his  expeditions  to  ihe  north-west  coast  of  America 
in  1789  and  1793.  The  other  two  were  Duncan  M'Dougal 
and  Donald  M'Kenzie.  To  these  was  subsequently  added  Mr. 
Wilson  Price  Hunt,  of  New  Jersey.  As  this  gentleman  was 
a  native  born  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  a  person  of  great 
probity  and  vvorth,  he  was  selected  by  Mr.  Astor  to  be  his  chief 
agent,  and  to  represent  him  in  the  contemplated  establishment. 
On  the  23d  of  June,  1810,  articles  of  agreement  were  en- 
tered into  between  Mr.  Astor  and  those  four  gentlemen,  acting 
for  themselves  and  for  the  several  persons  who  had  already 
agreed  to  become,  or  should  thereafter  become,  associated  under 
the  firm  of  "  The  Pacific  Fur  Company." 

According  to  these  articles,  Mr.  Astor  was  to  be  at  the  head 
of  the  company,  and  to  manage  its  afl'airs  in  New  York.  He 
was  to  furnish  vessels,  goods,  provisions,  arms,  ammunition, 
and  all  other  requisites  for  the  enterprise  at  first  cost  and  charges, 
provided  that  they  did  not,  at  any  time,  involve  an  advance  of 
more  than  four  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  stock  of  the  company  was  to  be  divided  into  a  hundred 
equal  shares,  with  the  profits  accruing  thereon.     Fifty  shares 


ir^ 


) 


44 


ARTICLES    OF    ASSOCIATION. 


were  to  be  at  the  disposition  of  Mr.  Astor,  and  the  other  fifty 
to  be  divided  among  the  partners  and  their  associates. 

Mr.  Astor  was  to  have  the  privilege  of  introducing  other  per- 
sons into  the  connexion,  as  partners,  two  of  whom,  at  least, 
should  be  conversant  with  the  Indian  trade,  and  none  of  them 
entitled  to  more  than  three  shares. 

A  general  meeting  of  the  company  was  to  be  held  annually 
at  Columbia  river,  for  the  investigation  and  regulation  of  its 
affairs ;  at  which  absent  members  might  be  represented,  and 
might  vote  by  proxy  under  certain  specified  conditions. 

The  association,  if  successful,  was  to  continue  for  twenty 
years  ;  but  the  parties  had  full  power  to  abandon  and  dissolve 
it  within  the  first  five  years,  should  it  be  found  unprofitable. 
For  this  term  Mr.  Astor  covenanted  to  bear  all  the  loss  that 
might  be  incurred  ;  after  which  it  was  to  be  borne  by  all  the 
partners,  in  proportion  to  their  respective  shares. 

The  parties  of  the  second  part  were  to  execute  faithfully 
such  duties  as  might  be  assigned  to  them  by  a  majority  of  the 
company  on  the  north-west  coast,  and  to  repair  to  such  place 
or  places  as  the  majority  might  direct. 

An  agent,  appointed  for  the  term  of  five  years,  was  to 
reside  at  the  principal  establishment  on  the  north-west  coast, 
and  Wilson  Price  Hunt  was  the  one  chosen  for  the  first  term. 
Should  the  interests  of  the  concern  at  any  time  require  his 
absence,  a  person  was  to  be  appointed,  in  general  meeting,  to 
take  his  place. 

Such  were  the  leading  conditions  of  this  association ;  we 
shall  now  proceed  to  relate  the  various  hardy  and  eventful 
expeditions,  by  sea  and  land,  to  which  it  gave  rise. 


j'm 


TWO    EXPEDITIONS    SET    ON    FOOT. 


45 


B  Other  fifty 

tes. 

ig  Other  per- 

)ni,  at  least, 

one  of  them 

eld  annually 
ilation  of  its 
esented,  and 
ions. 

for  twenty 
and  dissolve 
unprofitable, 
he  loss  that 
e  by  all  the 

ite  faithfully 

jority  of  the 

such  place 

ars,  was   to 

-west  coast, 

le  first  term. 

require  his 

meeting,  to 

ciation ;  we 
md  eventful 


^, 


CHAPTER   IV. 

Two    EXPEDITIONS     SET    ON    FOOT THE    ToNQUIN    AND    HEB    CREW — CaP- 

TAIN    ThOKN,  his    CHARACTER THE    PARTNERS    AND    CLERKS CANADIAN 

VOVAGEl'RS,     THEIR     HAHITS,     EMPLOYMENTS,     DRESS,     CHARACTER,     SONGS 

EXPEDITION     OE     A     CANADIAN     BOAT     AND     ITS     CREW     BY     LAND     AND 

WATER ARRIVAL     AT     NeW    YoRK PREPARATIONS    FOR     A    SEA     VOYAGE 

NORTH-WEST    BRAGGARTS UNDERHAND    PRECAUTIONS LETTER    OF    IN- 
STRUCTIONS. 

In  prosecuting  his  great  scheme  of  commerce  and  coloniza- 
tion, two  expeditions  were  devised  by  Mr.  Astor,  one  by  sea, 
the  other  by  land.  The  former  was  to  carry  out  the  people, 
stores,  ammunition,  and  merchandise,  requisite  for  establishing 
a  fortified  trading  post  at  the  mouth  of  Columbia  river.  The 
latter,  conducted  by  Mr.  Hunt,  was  to  proceed  up  the  Missouri, 
and  across  the  Rocky  mountains,  to  the  same  point ;  exploring 
a  line  of  communication  across  the  continen;,  and  noting  the 
places  where  interior  trading  posts  might  be  established.  The 
expedition  by  sea  is  the  one  which  comes  first  under  consider- 
ation. 

A  fine  ship  was  provided  called  the  Tonquin,  of  two  hundred 
and  ninety  tons  burthen,  mounting  ten  guns,  with  a  crew  of 
twenty  men.  She  carried  an  assortment  of  merchandise  for 
trading  with  the  natives  of  the  sea  board  and  of  the  interior, 
together  with  the  frame  of  a  schooner,  to  be  employed  in  the 
coasting  trade.  Seeds  also  were  provided  for  the  cultivation 
of  the  soil,  and  nothing  was  neglected  for  the  necessary  sup- 


ifiir 


':  'ill! 


':  nil' 

■I  I'i 


H 


f   II 


46 


PARTNERS    AND    CLERKS. 


ply  of  the  establishment.  The  command  of  the  ship  was 
intrusted  to  Jonathan  Thorn,  of  New  York,  a  lieutenant  in  the 
United  States  navy,  on  leave  of  absence.  He  was  a  man  of 
courage  and  firmness,  who  had  distinguished  himself  in  our 
Tripolitan  war,  and,  from  being  accustomed  to  naval  discipline, 
was  considered  by  Mr.  Astor  as  well  fitted  to  take  charge  of 
an  expedition  of  the  kind.  Four  of  the  partners  were  to  em- 
bark in  the  ship,  namely,  Messrs.  M'Kay,  M'Dougal,  David 
Stuart,  and  his  nephew,  Robert  Stuart.  Mr.  M'Dougal  was 
empowered  by  Mr.  Astor  to  act  as  his  proxy  in  the  absence  of 
Mr.  Hunt,  to  vote  for  him  and  in  his  name,  on  any  question  that 
might  come  before  any  meeting  of  the  persons  interested  in  the 
voyage. 

Beside  the  partners,  there  were  twelve  clerks  to  go  out  in  the 
ship,  several  of  them  natives  of  Canada,  who  had  some  expe- 
rience in  Indian  trade.  They  were  bound  to  the  service  of  the 
company  for  five  years,  at  the  rate  of  one  hundred  dollars  a 
year,  payable  at  the  expiration  of  the  term,  and  an  annual  equip- 
ment of  clothing  to  the  amount  of  forty  dollars.  In  case  of  ill 
conduct  they  were  liable  to  forfeit  their  wages  and  be  dis- 
missed ;  but,  should  they  acquit  themselves  well,  the  confident 
expectation  was  held  out  to  them  of  promotion,  and  partner- 
ship. Their  interests  were  thus,  to  some  extent,  identified 
with  those  of  the  company. 

Several  artisans  were  likewise  to  sail  in  the  ship,  for  the 
supply  of  the  colony;  but  the  most  peculiar  and  character- 
istic part  of  this  motley  embarkation  consisted  of  thirteen 
Canadian  "  voyageurs,"  who  had  enlisted  for  five  years.  As 
this  class  of  functionaries  will  continually  recur  in  the  course 
of  the  following  narrations,  and  as  they  form  one  of  those 
distinct  and  strongly  marked  castes  or  orders  of  people,  spring- 
ing up  in  this  vast  continent  out  of  geographical  circumstances, 


,1  'i^ 


CANADIAN    V0YAGEUR3. 


47 


3  ship  was 
enant  in  the 
IS  a  man  of 
iself  in  our 
,1  discipline, 
e  charge  of 
were  to  em- 
lugal,  David 
Dougal  was 
5  absence  of 
question  that 
rested  in  the 

go  out  in  the 
I  some  expe- 
lervice  of  the 
ed  dollars  a 
mnual  equip- 
n  case  of  ill 
and  be  dis- 
he  confident 
and  partner- 
fit,  identified 

ship,  for  the 
character- 
of  thirteen 
years.  As 
n  the  course 
)ne  of  those 
ople,  spring- 
rcumstances, 


i 

I 


I 


or  the  varied  pursuits,  habitudes,  and  origins  of  its  population, 
we  shall  sketcli  a  few  of  their  characteristics  for  the  informa- 
tion of  the  reader.  ti 

The  "  voyageurs  "  form  a  kind  of  confraternity  in  the  Can- 
adas,  like  the  arrieros,  or  carriers  of  Spain,  and,  like  them, 
are  employed  in  long  internal  expeditions  of  travel  and  traffic  : 
witli  this  diflTcrence,  that  the  arrieros  travel  by  land,  the  voy- 
ageurs by  water  ;  the  former  with  mules  and  horses,  the  latter 
with  butteaux  and  canoes.  The  voyageurs  may  be  said  to  have 
sprung  up  out  of  the  fur  trade,  having  originally  been  employed 
by  the  early  French  merchants  in  their  trading  expeditions 
through  the  labyrinth  of  rivers  and  lakes  of  the  boundless 
interior.  They  were  coeval  with  the  conreurs  des  hois;  or 
rangers  of  the  woods,  already  noticed,  and,  like  them,  in  the 
intervals  of  their  long,  arduous,  and  laborious  expeditions,  were 
prone  to  pass  their  time  in  idleness  and  revelry  about  the 
trading  posts  or  settlements ;  squandering  their  hard  earnings 
in  heedless  conviviality,  and  rivalling  their  neighbors,  the 
Indians,  in  indolent  indulgence  and  an  imprudent  disregard 
of  the  morrow. 

When  Canada  passed  under  British  domination,  and  the  old 
French  trading  houses  were  broken  up,  the  voyageurs,  like 
the  coureiirs  des  hois,  were  for  a  time  disheartened  and  discon- 
solate, and  with  difficulty  could  reconcile  themselves  to  the 
service  of  the  new  comers,  so  diflerent  in  habits,  manners  and 
language  from  their  former  employers.  By  degrees,  however, 
they  became  accustomed  to  the  change,  and  at  length  came  to 
consider  the  British  fur  traders,  and  especially  the  members 
of  the  North-west  Company,  as  the  legitimate  lords  of  creation. 

The  dress  of  these  people  is  generally  half  civilized,  half 
savage.  They  wear  a  capot  or  surcoat,  made  of  a  blanket, 
a  striped  cotton  shirt,  cloth  trowsers,  or  leathern  legging,  moc- 


^'' 


I 


i  t 


tfl 


} 


?! 


46 


LIFE    ON    THE    LAKES. 


casins  of  deer  skin,  anil  a  belt  of  variegated  worsted,  from 
which  are  suspended  the  knife,  tobacco  pouch  and  other  im- 
plements. Their  hinjfuage  is  of  tlio  same  piebald  character, 
being  a  French  patois,  embroidered  with  Indian  and  English 
words  and  phrases. 

The  lives  of  the  voyag«nirs  are  passed  in  wild  and  extensive 
rovings,  in  the  service  of  individuals,  but  more  especially  of  the 
fur  traders.  They  are  generally  of  French  descent,  and  inherit 
much  of  the  gayety  and  lightness  of  heart  of  their  ancestors, 
being  full  of  anecdote  and  song,  and  ever  ready  lor  the  dance. 
They  inherit,  too,  a  fund  of  civility  and  complaisance ;  and, 
instead  of  that  hardness  and  grossness  which  men  in  laborious 
life  are  apt  to  indulge  towards  each  other,  they  are  mutually 
obliging  and  accommodating  ;  interchanging  kind  offices,  yield- 
ing each  other  assistance  and  comfort  in  every  emergency,  and 
using  the  familiar  appellations  of  "  cousin"  and  "  brother,"' 
when  there  is  in  fact  no  relationship.  Their  natural  good  will 
is  probably  heightcmed  by  a  community  of  adventure  and  hard- 
ship in  their  precarious  and  wandering  life. 

No  men  are  more  submissive  to  their  leaders  and  employers, 
more  caj)able  of  enduring  hardship,  or  more  good-humored 
under  privations.  Never  are  they  so  happy  as  when  on  long 
and  rough  expeditions,  toiling  up  rivers  or  coasting  lakes ; 
encamping  at  night  on  the  borders,  gossipping  round  their  fires, 
and  bivouacking  in  the  open  air.  They  are  dextrous  boatmen, 
vigorous  and  adroit  with  the  oar  and  paddle,  and  will  row  from 
morning  until  night  without  a  murmur.  The  steersman  often 
sings  an  old  traditionary  French  song,  with  some  regular 
burden  in  which  they  all  join,  keeping  time  with  their  oars ; 
if  at  any  time  they  flag  in  spirits  or  relax  in  exertion,  it  is  but 
necessary  to  strike  up  a  song  of  the  kind  to  put  them  all  in 
fresh  spirits  and  activity.     The  Canadian  waters  are  vocal 


t 


ili 


(]•■» 


,i^ 


% 


CANADIAN    BOAT    SONOS. 


49 


irslcJ,  Irom 
d  oilior  im- 
l  character, 
nd  English 

id  extensive 
iciallyol'tlio 
,  and  inherit 
ir  ancestors, 
ir  the  dance, 
isance ;  and, 
in  hiborious 
arc  nuitiially 
)nices,  yield- 
ergency,  and 
1   "brother," 
ral  good  will 
n-e  and  hard- 
id  employers, 
ood-humored 
vhen  on  long 
isting  lakes ; 
id  their  fires, 
ous  boatmen, 
m\\  row  from 
ersman  often 
some  regular 
1  their  oars ; 
tion,  it  is  but 
them  all  in 
irs  are  vocal 


f 


■if 
1 


with  these  little  French  chansons,  that  have  been  echoed  from 
mouth  to  mouth  uiid  traiisuiitltMl  from  fitlH-r  to  son,  from  the 
earliest  days  of  the  colony;  and  it  has  a  jjleasing  ellect,  in  a 
still  golden  sUMuner  ^'Vitning,  to  sec;  a  battcau  gliding  across 
the  bosom  of  a  lalu:  ami  dippiny  its  oars  to  the  cadence  of 
these  (juaint  old  ditties,  or  sweeping  along,  in  full  chorus  on 
a  l)right  suuuy  morniug,  down  the  transparent  ctirrent  of  one 
ol'  tilt'  Cunada  riviTs. 

But  we  are  talking  of  things  that  are  fast  fading  away ! 
TJie  march  of  mechanical  invention  is  driving  every  thing 
j)0etical  before  it.  The  steand)oats,  which  are  fast  dis])t'lliiig 
the  wildness  and  romance  of  our  lakes  and  rivers,  and  aiding 
to  subdue  the  world  into  conunonplace,  are  proving  as  fatal  to 
the  race  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs  as  they  have  been  to 
that  of  the  boatmen  of  tiie  Mississippi.  Their  glory  is  do- 
parled.  'I'hey  are  no  longer  the  lords  of  our  internal  seas, 
and  tJK'  great  navigators  of  the  wilderness.  Some  of  them 
may  still  occasionally  bo  seen  coasting  the  lower  lakes  with 
their  frail  barks,  and  pitching  their  camps  and  lighting  their 
tires  upon  the  shores;  but  their  range  is  fast  contracting  to 
those  remote  waters  and  shallow  and  obstructed  rivers  unvisited 
by  the  steamboat.  In  the  course  of  years  they  will  gradually 
disappear ;  their  songs  will  die  away  like  the  echoes  they 
once  awakened,  and  the  Canadian  voyageurs  will  become  a 
forgotten  race,  or  remembered,  like  their  associates,  the  In- 
dians, among  the  poetical  images  of  past  times,  and  as  themes 
for  local  and  romantic  associations. 

An  instance  of  the  buoyant  temperament  and  the  profes- 
sional pride  of  these  people  was  furnished  in  the  gay  and 
braggart  style  in  which  they  arrived  at  New  York  to  join  the 
enterprise.  They  were  determined  to  regale  and  astonish  the 
people  of  the  "  States"  with  the  sight  of  a  Canadian  boat  and 


iir^ 


I 

(  I,  ' 

.1 

!  ,1 


1 


t      i 


'« 'f 


30 


BOATING    AND    BOASTING. 


a  Canadian  crew.  They  accordingly  fitted  up  a  large  but  light 
bark  canoe,  such  as  is  used  in  the  lur  trade  ;  transported  it  in 
a  waggon  from  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  shores 
cf  lake  Champlain ;  traversed  the  lake  in  it,  from  end  to  end  ; 
hoisted  it  again  in  a  waggon  and  wheeled  it  off  to  Lansingburgh, 
and  there  launched  it  upon  the  waters  of  the  Hudson.  Down 
this  river  they  plied  their  course  mernly  on  a  line  summer's 
day,  making  its  banks  resound  for  the  first  time  with  their 
old  French  boat  songs  ;  passing  by  the  villages  with  whoop 
and  halloo,  so  as  to  make  the  honest  Dutch  farmers  mistake 
them  for  a  crew  of  savages.  In  this  way  they  swept,  in  full 
song,  and  with  regular  flourish  of  the  paddle,  round  New 
York,  in  a  still  summer  evening,  to  the  wonder  and  admiration 
of  its  inhabitants,  who  had  never  before  witnessed  on  their 
waters,  a  nautical  apparition  of  the  kind. 

Such  was  the  variegated  band  of  adventurers  about  to  em- 
bark in  the  Tonquin  on  this  arduous  and  doubtful  enterprise. 
While  yet  in  port  and  on  dry  land,  in  the  bustle  of  preparation 
and  the  excitement  of  novelty,  all  was  sunshine  and  promise. 
The  Canadians  especially,  who  with  their  constitutional  viva- 
city, have  a  considerable  dash  of  the  gascon,  were  buoyant 
and  boastful,  and  great  braggarts  as  to  the  future  ;  while  all 
those  who  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  North-west  Company, 
and  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade,  plumed  themselves  upon 
their  hardihood  and  their  capacity  to  endure  privations.  If 
Mr.  Astor  ventured  to  hint  at  the  difiiculties  they  might  have 
to  encounter,  they  treated  them  with  scorn.  They  were  "  north- 
westers;" men  seasoned  to  hardships,  who  cared  for  neither 
wind  nor  weather.  Thoy  could  live  hard,  lie  hard,  sleep 
hard,  eat  dogs  ! — in  a  word  they  were  ready  to  do  and  suffer 
any  thing  for  the  good  of  the  enterprise.  With  all  this  pro- 
fession of  zeal  and  devotion,  Mr.  Astor  \,  as  not  over-confident 


'm 


A    SPECK    OF    WAR    ON    THE    HORIZON. 


51 


e  but  liglit 
)orted  it  in 
the  shores 
nd  to  end  ; 
isingburgh, 
3n.     Down 
e  summer's 
with  their 
vilh  whoop 
3rs  mistake 
ivept,  in  I'ldl 
round  New 
1  admiration 
ied  on  their 

ibout  to  em- 
1  enterprise, 
preparation 
nd  promise, 
utional  viva- 
ere  buoyant 
e ;  while  all 
st  Company, 
selves   upon 
ivations.     If 


v 


might  have 


were  "north- 
d  for  neither 

hard,  sleep 
do  and  suffer 

all  this  pro- 
Dver-confident 


of  the  stability  and  firm  faith  of  the  e  mercurial  beings.  He 
had  received  information,  also,  that  an  armed  brig  from  Halifax, 
probably  at  the  instigation  of  the  North-west  Company,  was 
hovering  on  tlie  coast,  watching  for  the  Tonquin,  with  the  pur- 
})Ose  of  impressing  the  Canadians  on  board  of  her,  as  British 
subjects,  iuid  ilius  iiUerrupting  the  voyage.  It  was  a  time 
of  doubt  and  anxiety,  when  the  relations  between  the  United 
States  and  Great  []ritain  were  daily  assuming  a  more  pre- 
carious aspect,  and  \erging  towards  that  war  which  shortly 
ensued.  As  a  precautionary  measure,  therefore,  he  required 
that  the  voyagcurs,  as  they  were  about  to  enter  into  the  service 
of  an  American  association,  and  to  reside  within  the  limits 
of  the  United  States,  should  take  the  oaths  of  naturalization, 
as  American  citizens.  To  this  they  readily  agreed,  and  shortly 
afterward  assured  him  that  they  had  actually  done  so.  It  was 
not  until  after  they  had  sailed  that  he  discovered  that  they 
had  entirely  deceived  him  in  the  matter. 

The  confidence  of  Mr.  Astor  was  abused  in  another  quarter. 
Two  of  the  partners,  both  of  them  Scotchmen,  and  recently 
in  the  service  of  the  North-west  Company,  had  misgivings  as 
to  an  enterprise  which  might  clash  with  the  interests  and 
establishments  protected  by  the  British  flag.  They  privately 
waited  upon  the  British  minister,  Mr.  Jackson,  then  in  New 
York,  laid  open  to  him  the  whole  scheme  of  Mr.  Astor,  though 
intrusted  to  them  in  confidence,  and  dependent,  in  a  great 
measure,  upon  secrecy  at  the  outset  for  its  success,  and  in- 
quired whether  they,  as  British  subjects,  could  lawfully  engage 
in  it.  The  reply  satisfied  their  scruples,  while  the  information 
they  imparted  excited  the  surprise  and  admiration  of  Mr.  Jack- 
son, that  a  private  individual  should  have  conceived  and  set  on 
foot  at  his  own  risk  and  expense,  so  great  an  enterprise. 

This  step  on  the  part  of  those  gentlemen  was  not  known  to 


Hit;.: 


ii 


1   V\ 


11 


m 


li    ;;. 


52 


PARTING    ADMONITIONS. 


Mr.  Aster  until  sometime  afterwards,  or  it  might  have  modified 
the  trust  and  confidence  reposed  in  them. 

To  guard  against  any  interruption  to  the  voyage  by  the 
armed  brig,  said  to  be  olT  the  harbor,  Mr.  Astor  applied  to 
Commodore  Rodgers,  at  that  time  commanding  at  New  York,  to 
give  the  Tonquin  safe  convoy  olf  the  coast.  The  commodore 
having  received  from  a  high  ofllcial  som'ce  assurance  of  the 
deep  interest  which  the  government  took  in  the  enterprise, 
sent  directions  to  Captain  Hull,  at  that  time  cruising  off  the 
harbor,  in  the  frigate  Constitution,  to  afl!brd  the  Tonquin  the 
required  protection  when  she  should  put  to  sea. 

Before  the  day  of  embarkation,  Mr.  Astor  addressed  a  letter 
of  instruction  to  tij.e  four  partners  who  were  to  sail  in  the 
ship.  In  this  he  enjoined  them,  in  the  most  earnest  manner, 
to  cultivate  harmony  and  unanimity,  and  recommended  that  all 
differences  of  opinions  on  points  connected  with  the  objects 
and  interests  of  the  voyage  should  be  discussed  by  the  whole, 
and  decided  by  a  majority  of  votes.  He,  moreover,  gave  them 
especial  caution  as  to  their  conduct  on  arriving  at  their  des- 
tined port ;  exhorting  them  to  be  careful  to  make  a  favorable 
impression  iipon  the  wild  people  among  whom  their  lot  and 
the  fortunes  of  the  enterprise  would  be  cast.  "  If  you  find 
them  kind,"  said  he,  "  as  I  hope  you  will,  be  so  to  them. 
If  otherwise,  act  with  caution  and  forbearance,  and  convince 
them  that  you  come  as  friends." 

With  the  same  anxious  forethought  he  wrote  a  letter  of  in- 
structions to  Captain  Thorn,  in  which  he  urged  the  strictest 
attention  to  the  health  of  himself  and  his  crew,  and  to  the 
promotion  of  good-humor  and  harmony  on  board  his  ship. 
"  To  prevent  any  misunderstanding,"  added  he,  "  will  require 
your  particular  good  management."  His  letter  closed  with  an 
injunction  of  wariness  in  his  intercourse  with  the  natives,  a 


€■" 


i 


letter  of  in- 
he  strictest 
and  to  the 
i  his  ship, 
will  require 
sed  with  an 
J  natives,  a 


PARTING    ADMONITIONS. 


63 


ve  modified 

age  by  the 
applied  to 
ew  York,  to 
commodore 
ance  of  the 
enterprise, 
sing  off"  the 
^onquin  the 


f 


subject  on  which  Mr.  Astor  was  justly  sensible  he  could  not 
be  too  earnest.  " I  must  recommend  you,"  said  he,  "to  be 
particularly  careful  on  the  coast,  and  not  to  rely  too  much  on 
the  friendly  disposition  of  the  natives.  All  accidents  which 
have  as  yet  happened  there  arose  from  too  much  confidence  in 
the  Indians." 

The  reader  will  bear  these  instructions  in  mind,  as  events 
will  prove  their  wisdom  and  importance,  and  the  disasters 
which  ensued  in  consequence  of  the  neglect  of  them. 


ised  a  letter 
sail  in  the 
est  manner, 
ded  that  all 
the  objects 
'  the  whole, 
,  gave  them 
t  their  des- 
a  favorable 
leir  lot  and 
If  you  find 
50  to  them, 
id  convince 


^ 


'i 


J  ii  i 


i  ) 


34 


SAILING    OF    THE    TONQUIN. 


CHAPTER   V, 


& 


it 

■If 


If' 


Sailing  of  the  Toxquix — a  rigid  commander  and  a  reckless  crew 

LANDSMExV     ox      shipboard FRESH      WATER      SAILORS      AT     SEA LUB- 
BER     NESTS SHIP      FARE A     LABRADOR      VETERAN LITERARY      CLERKS 

CURIOUS      TRAVELLERS RoBINSON      CruSOE's     ISLAND QUARTERDECK 

QUARRELS FALKLAND    ISLANDS A    WILDGOOSECHASE PoRT    EoMONT 

EPITAPH    HUNTING OlD     MORTALITY PENGUIN     SHOOTING SPORTSMEN 

LEFT    IN  THE  LURCH A    HARD    PULL FURTHER    ALTERCATIONS ARRIVAL 

AT  Owyhee. 


HI 
if 

n 

hi 


On  the  eighth  of  September,  1810,  the  Tonquin  put  to  sea, 
where  she  was  soon  joined  by  the  frigate  Constitution.  The 
wind  was  fresh  and  fair  from  the  south-west,  and  the  ship  was 
soon  out  of  sight  of  land  and  free  from  the  apprehended  dan- 
ger of  interruption.  Tlie  frigate,  therefore,  gave  her  "  God 
speed,"  and  left  her  to  her  course. 

The  harmony  so  earnestly  enjoined  by  Mr.  Astor  on  this  het- 
erogeneous crew,  and  which  had  been  so  confidently  promised 
in  the  buoyant  moments  of  preparation,  was  doomed  to  meet 
with  a  check  at  the  very  outset. 

Captain  Thorn  was  an  honest,  straight-forward,  but  somewhat 
dry  and  dictatorial  commander,  who,  having  been  nurtured  in 
the  system  and  discipline  of  a  ship  of  war,  and  in  a  sacred 
opinion  of  the  supremacy  of  the  quarterdeck,  was  disposed  to 
be  absolute  lord  and  master  on  board  of  his  ship.  He  appears, 
moreover,  to  have  had  no  great  opinion,  from  the  first,  of  the 
persons  embarked  with  him.     He  had  stood  by  with  surly  con- 


■# 


-»f 


1 


t-/ 


«fi-. 


NAUTICAL    NOTIONS. 


53 


ler 


God 


n  this  het- 

promised 

1  to  meet 

somewhat 
urtured  in 

a  sacred 
sposed  to 
3  appears, 

St,  of  the 
surly  con- 


fCLESS    CREW 

SEA LUB- 

.V 

RY      CLERKS 

UAKTERDECK 

r  Egmont — 

-SPORTSMEN 

rS ARRIVAL 

1 

ut  to  sea, 

ion.     The 

jf;i 

i  ship  was 

nded  dan- 

.       '■ 

tempt  while  they  vaunted  so  bravely  to  Mr.  Astor  of  all  they 
could  do  and  all  they  could  undergo ;  how  they  could  face  all 
weathers,  put  up  with  all  kinds  of  fare,  and  even  eat  dogs  with 
a  relish,  when  no  better  food  was  to  be  had.  He  had  set  them 
down  as  a  set  of  land  lubbers  and  braggadocios,  and  was  dis- 
posed to  treat  them  accordingly.  Mr.  Astor  was,  in  his  eyes, 
his  only  real  employer,  being  the  father  of  the  enterprise,  who 
furnished  all  funds  and  bore  all  losses.  The  others  were  mere 
agents  and  subordinates,  who  lived  at  his  expense.  He  evi- 
dently had  but  a  narrow  idea  of  the  scope  and  nature  of  the 
enterprise,  limiting  his  views  merely  to  his  part  of  it ;  every 
thing  beyond  the  concerns  of  his  ship  was  out  of  his  sphere  ; 
and  any  thing  that  interfered  with  the  routine  of  his  nautical 
duties  put  him  in  a  passion. 

The  partners,  on  the  other  hand,  had  been  brought  up  in  the 
service  of  the  North-west  Company,  and  in  a  profound  idea  of 
the  importance,  dignity,  and  authority  of  a  partner.  They 
already  began  to  consider  themselves  on  a  par  with  the  M'Tav- 
ishes,  the  M'Gillivrays,  the  Frobishers,  and  the  other  mag- 
nates of  the  north-west,  whom  they  had  been  accustomed  to 
look  up  to  as  the  great  ones  of  the  earth  ;  and  they  were  a  little 
disposed,  perhaps,  to  wear  their  suddenly-acquired  honors  with 
some  air  of  pretension.  Mr.  Astor,  too,  had  put  them  on  their 
mettle  with  respect  to  the  captain,  describing  him  as  a  gun- 
powder fellow  who  would  command  his  ship  in  tine  style,  and, 
if  there  was  any  fighting  to  do,  would  "  blow  all  out  of  the  water." 

Thus  prepared  to  regard  each  other  with  no  very  cordial 
eye,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  parties  soon  came  into 
collision.  On  the  very  first  night  Captain  Thorn  began  his 
man-of-war  discipline  by  ordering  the  lights  in  the  cabin  to  be 
extinguished  at  eight  o'clock. 

The  pride  of  the  partners  was  immediately  in  arms.     This 


ji'if 


lii ' 


pi 


:i.(ii 


j;  « 


56 


LANDSMEN    AT    SEA. 


"n 


was  an  invasion  of  their  rights  and  dignities  not  to  be  borne. 
They  were  on  board  of  their  own  ship,  and  entitled  to  consult 
their  ease  and  enjoyment.  M'Dougal  was  the  champion  of  their 
cause.  He  was  an  active,  irritable,  fuming,  vainglorious  little 
man,  and  elevated  in  his  own  opinion,  by  being  the  proxy  of 
Mr.  Astor.  A  violent  altercation  ensued,  in  the  course  of  which 
Thorn  threatened  to  put  the  partners  in  irons  should  they  prove 
refractory ;  upon  which  M'Dougal  seized  a  pistol  and  swore 
to  be  the  death  of  the  captain  should  he  ever  offer  such  an 
indignity.  It  was  some  time  before  the  irritated  parties  could 
be  pacified  by  the  more  temperate  by-standere. 

Such  was  the  captain's  outset  with  the  partners.  Nor  did 
the  clerks  stand  much  higher  in  his  good  graces ;  indeed,  he 
seems  to  have  regarded  all  the  landsmen  on  board  his  ship  as 
a  kind  of  live  lumber,  continually  in  the  way.  The  poor  voy- 
ageurs,  too,  continually  irritated  his  spleen  by  their  "  lubberly" 
and  unseemly  habits,  so  abhorrent  to  one  accustomed  to  the 
cleanliness  of  a  man-of-war.  These  poor  fresh  water  sailors, 
so  vainglorious  on  shore,  and  almost  amphibious  when  on  lakes 
and  rivers,  lost  all  heart  and  st'^mach  the  moment  they  were  at 
sea.  For  days  they  suffered  the  doleful  rigors  and  retchings 
of  seasickness,  lurking  below  in  their  berths  in  squalid  state, 
or  emerging  now  and  then  like  spectres  from  the  hatchways,  in 
capotes  and  blankets,  with  dirty  nightcaps,  grizzly  beard,  lan- 
tern visage  and  unhappy  eye,  shivering  about  the  deck,  and 
ever  and  anon  crawling  to  the  sides  of  the  vessel,  and  offering 
up  their  tributes  to  the  windward,  to  the  infinite  aimoyance  of 
the  captain. 

His  letters  to  Mr.  Astor,  wherein  he  pours  forth  the  bitter- 
ness of  his  soul,  and  his  seamanlike  impatience  of  what  he 
considers  the  "  luhhcrly"  character  and  conduct  of  those  around 
him,  are  before  us,  and  are  amusingly  characteristic.     The 


-ill' 

I 

# 


I 


i 


^ 


Ll'BBER    NESTS — SHIP    FARE. 


57 


3  borne, 
consult 
of  their 
us  little 
)roxy  of 
►f  which 
ey  prove 
(1  swore 
such  an 
es  could 

Nor  did 
deed,  he 
s  ship  as 
)Oor  voy- 
ubberly" 
id  to  the 
r  sailors, 
on  lakes 
^  were  at 
retchings 
did  state, 
iways,  in 
eard,  lan- 
leck,  and 
i  offering 
)yance  of 

he  bitter- 

what  he 

se  around 

lie.     The 


t 


honost  captain  is  full  of  vexation  on  his  own  account,  and  soli- 
citude on  account  of  Mr.  Astor,  wliose  property  he  considers 
at  the  mercy  of  a  most  heteroj^eneous  and  wasteful  crew. 

As  to  the  clerks,  he  pronounces  them  mere  pretenders,  not 
one  of  whom  had  ever  been  amonjr  Indians,  nor  I'arther  to  the 
north-west  than  Montreal,  nor  of  hiirher  rank  than  barkeeper 
of  a  tavern  or  marker  of  a  billiard  table,  excepting  one,  who 
had  been  a  schoolmaster,  and  whom  he  emphatically  sets  down 
for  "  as  foolish  a  pedant  as  ever  lived." 

Then  as  to  the  artisans  and  laborers  who  had  been  brought 
from  Canada  and  shipped  at  such  expense,  the  three  most 
respectable,  according  to  the  captain's  account,  were  culprits, 
who  had  fled  from  Canada  on  account  of  their  misdeeds;  the 
rest  had  figured  in  Montreal  as  draymen,  barbers,  waiters,  and 
carriole  drivers,  and  were  the  most  helpless,  worthless  beings, 
"  that  ever  broke  sea  biscuit." 

It  may  easily  be  imagined  what  a  series  of  misunderstand- 
ings and  cross  purposes  would  be  likely  to  take  place  between 
such  a  crew  and  such  a  commander.  The  captain,  in  his  zeal 
for  the  heahh  and  cleanliness  of  his  ship,  would  make  sweep- 
ing visitations  to  the  "  lubber  nests  "  of  the  unlucky  "  voyageurs" 
and  their  companions  in  misery,  ferret  them  out  of  their  berths, 
make  them  air  and  wash  themselves  and  their  accoutrements, 
and  oblige  them  to  stir  about  briskly  and  take  exercise. 

Nor  did  his  disgust  and  vexation  cease  when  all  hands  had 
recovered  from  seasickness,  and  become  accustomed  to  the 
ship,  for  now  broke  forth  an  alarming  keenness  of  appetite  that 
threatened  havoc  to  the  provisions.  What  especially  irritated 
the  captain  was  the  daintiness  of  some  of  his  cabin  passengers. 
They  were  loud  in  tlieir  complaints  of  the  ship's  fare,  though 
their  table  was  served  with  fresh  pork,  hams,  tongues,  smoked 
beef,  and  puddings.     "  When  thwarted  in  their  cravings  for 


''jiiirir^ 


:i!;  i 


68 


A    VETERAN    FROM    LABRADOR. 


rv 


•I 


f 


delicacies,"  said  he,  "  they  would  exclaim  that  it  was  d — d  hard 
they  could  not  live  as  they  pleased  upon  their  own  property, 
being  on  board  of  their  own  ship,  freighted  with  their  own  mer- 
chandise. And  these,"  added  he,  "  are  the  fine  fellows  who 
made  such  boast  that  they  could  '  cat  dogs.' " 

In  his  indignation  at  what  he  termed  their  effeminacy,  he 
would  swear  that  he  would  never  take  them  to  sea  again 
"  without  having  Fly-market  on  the  forecastle,  Covent-gar- 
den  on  the  poop,  and  a  cool  spring  from  Canada  in  the 
maintop." 

As  they  proceeded  on  their  voyage  and  got  into  the  smooth 
seas  and  pleasant  weather  of  tlie  tropics,  other  annoyances 
occurred  to  vex  the  spirit  of  the  captain.  He  had  been  crossed 
by  the  irritable  mood  of  one  of  the  partners ;  he  was  now 
excessively  annoyed  by  the  good-humor  of  another.  This  was 
the  elder  Stuart,  who  was  an  easy  soul,  and  of  a  social  dis- 
position. He  had  seen  life  in  Canada,  and  on  the  coast  of 
Labrador  ;  had  been  a  fur  trader  in  the  former,  and  a  fisherman 
on  the  latter ;  and,  in  the  course  of  his  experience,  had  made 
various  expeditions  with  voyageurs.  He  was  accustomed, 
therefore,  to  the  familiarity  which  prevails  between  that  class 
and  their  superiors,  and  the  gossipings  which  take  place 
among  them  when  seated  round  a  fire  at  their  encampments. 
Stuart  was  never  so  happy  as  when  he  could  seat  himself  on 
the  deck  with  a  number  of  these  men  round  him,  in  camping 
style,  smoke  together,  passing  the  pipe  from  mouth  to  mouth, 
after  the  manner  of  the  Indians,  sing  old  Canadian  boat  songs, 
and  tell  stories  about  their  hardships  and  adventures,  in  the 
course  of  which  he  rivalled  Sinbad  in  his  long  tales  of  the  sea, 
about  his  fishing  exploits  on  the  coast  of  Labrador. 

This  gossiping  familiarity  shocked  the  captain's  notions  of 
rank  and  subordination,  and  nothing  was  so  abhorrent  to  him  as 


■is 
I 


I! 


■#; 


LITERARY    CLERKS. 


59 


1 — d  hard 

property, 

own  mer- 

ilows  who 

linacy,  he 
sea  again 
lovent-gar- 
da  in   the 

he  smooth 
nnoyances 
en  crossed 
was  now 
This  was 
social  dia- 
e  coast  of 
,  fisherman 
,  had  made 
ccustomed, 
that  class 
;ake   place 
ampments. 
limself  on 
n  camping 
I  to  mouth, 
3oat  songs, 
res,  in  the 
of  the  sea, 

notions  of 
it  to  him  as 


the  community  of  pipe  between  master  and  man,  and  their 
mingling  in  chorus  in  the  outlandish  bout  songs. 

Then  there  was  another  whimsical  source  of  annoyance  to 
him.  Some  of  the  young  clerks,  who  were  making  their  first 
voyage,  and  to  whom  every  thing  was  new  and  strange,  were, 
very  rationally,  in  the  habit  of  taking  notes  and  keeping  jour- 
nals. This  was  a  sore  abomination  to  the  honest  captain, 
who  held  their  literary  pretensions  in  great  contempt.  "  The 
collecting  of  materials  for  long  histories  of  their  voyage  and 
travels,"  said  he,  in  his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  "  appears  to 
engross  most  of  their  attention."  We  can  conceive  what  must 
have  been  the  crusty  impatience  of  the  worthy  navigator, 
when,  on  any  trifling  occurrence  in  the  course  of  the  voyage, 
quite  commonplace  in  his  eyes,  he  saw  these  young  landsmen 
running  to  record  it  in  their  journals  ;  and  wliat  indignant 
glances  he  must  have  cast  to  right  and  left,  as  he  worried  about 
the  deck,  giving  out  his  orders  for  the  management  of  the  ship, 
surrounded  by  singing,  smoking,  gossiping,  scribbling  groups, 
all,  as  he  thought,  intent  upon  the  amusement  of  the  passing 
hour,  instead  of  the  great  purpose  and  interests  of  the  voyage. 

It  is  possible  the  captain  was  in  some  degree  right  in  his 
notions.  Though  some  of  the  passengers  had  much  to  gain  by 
the  voyage,  none  of  them  had  any  thing  positively  to  lose. 
They  were  mostly  young  men,  in  the  heyday  of  life  ;  and  hav- 
ing got  into  fine  latitudes,  upon  smooth  seas,  with  a  well  stored 
ship  under  them,  and  a  fair  wind  in  the  shoulder  of  the  sail, 
they  seemed  to  have  got  into  a  holiday  world,  and  were  dis- 
posed to  enjoy  it.  That  craving  desire,  natural  to  untravelled 
men  of  fresh  and  lively  minds,  to  see  strange  lands,  and  to  visit 
scenes  famous  in  history  or  fable,  was  expressed  by  some  of 
the  partners  and  clerks,  with  respect  to  some  of  the  storied 
coasts  and  islands  that  lay  within  their  route.     The  captain, 


I  ^^  1 


t!        -i; 


i'1 


60 


CrniOl'S    TUAVELLEttS. 


'■:  I 


I  l( 


1 1 


i 


w 


II* 


fl 


fit 


.1    "h 


r5i  I  i; 


however,  who  rofiardc-J  every  coast  and  island  with  a  matter 
of  fact  eye,  and  had  no  more  associations  connected  with  them 
than  those  laid  down  in  his  seacliart,  considered  all  this  cu- 
riosity as  cxceedin<fly  idle  and  childish.  "  In  the  first  part  of 
the  voyage,"  says  he  in  his  letter,  "  they  were  determined  to 
have  it  said  they  had  Itccn  in  Africa,  and  therefore  insisted  on 
my  stopping  at  the  ("ape  do  Verds.  Next  they  said  tlie  ship 
should  stop  on  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  for  they  must  see  the 
large  and  uncommon  inhabitants  of  that  place.  Then  they  must 
go  to  the  island  where  Robinson  Crusoe  had  so  long  lived.  And 
lastly,  they  were  determined  to  see  the  handsome  inhabitants 
of  Easter  island." 

To  all  these  resolves  the  captain  opposed  his  peremptory 
veto,  as  "  contrary  to  instructions."  Then  would  break  forth 
an  unavailing  explosion  of  wrath  on  the  part  of  certain  of  the 
partners,  in  the  course  of  which  they  did  not  even  spare  Mr. 
Astor  for  his  act  of  supererogation  in  furnishing  orders  for  the 
control  of  the  ship  while  they  were  on  board,  instead  of  leav- 
ing them  to  be  the  judges,  where  it  wotdd  be  best  for  her  to 
touch,  and  how  long  to  remain.  The  choleric  M'Dougal  took 
the  lead  in  these  railings,  being,  as  has  been  observed,  a  little 
piifled  up  with  the  idea  of  being  Mr.  Astor's  proxy. 

The  captain,  however,  became  only  so  much  the  more  crusty 
and  dogged  in  his  adherence  to  his  orders,  and  touchy  and  harsh 
in  his  dealings  with  his  passengers,  and  frequent  altercations 
ensued.  He  may  in  some  measure  have  been  influenced  by  his 
seamanlike  impatience  of  the  interference  of  landsmen,  and  his 
high  notions  of  naval  etiquette  and  quarterdeck  authority  ;  but 
he  evidently  had  an  honest,  trusty  concern  for  the  interests  of 
his  employer.  He  pictured  to  himself  the  anxious  projector 
of  the  enterprise,  who  had  disbursed  so  munificently  in  its  out- 
fit, calculating  on  the  zeal,  fidelity,  and  singleness  of  purpose 


i 


J". 


i 


m 


f 


A    WILDGOOSECHASE. 


61 


a  matter 
ath  them 

this  cu- 
lt j)iirt  of 
niined  to 
sisted  on 

the  ship 
;  see  the 
liey  must 
;m1.  And 
[habitants 

sreniptory 
eak  forth 
lin  of  the 
spare  Mr. 
rs  for  the 
\  of  leav- 
er her  to 
meal  took 
d,  a  little 

are  crusty 
and  harsh 
tercations 
:'ed  by  his 
n,  and  his 
)rity  ;  but 
terests  of 
projector 
in  its  out- 
f  purpose 


i 

4 

i 

"y 


of  his  associates  and  agents ;  while  they,  on  the  other  hand, 
having  a  good  sliip  at  their  disposal,  and  a  deep  pocket  at  home 
to  bear  tliom  out,  seemed  ready  to  loiter  on  every  coast,  and 
amuse  themselves  in  every  port. 

On  the  fourth  of  December  they  came  in  sight  of  the  Falk- 
land islands.  Having  been  for  some  time  on  an  allowance 
of  water  it  was  resolved  to  anchor  hero  and  obtain  a  supply. 
A  boat  was  sent  into  a  small  bay  to  take  soundings.  Mr. 
M'Dougal  and  Mr.  M'Kay  took  this  occasion  to  go  on  shore, 
but  with  a  request  from  the  captain  that  they  would  not  detain 
the  ship.  Once  on  shore,  however,  they  were  in  no  haste  to 
obey  his  orders,  but  rambled  about  in  search  of  curiosities. 
The  anchorage  proving  unsafe,  and  water  diflicult  to  be  i)ro- 
cured,  the  captain  stood  out  to  sea,  and  made  repeated  signals 
for  those  on  shore  to  rejoin  the  shij),  but  it  was  not  until 
nine  at  night  that  they  came  on  board. 

The  wind  being  adverse,  the  boat  was  again  sent  on  shore 
on  the  following  morning,  and  the  same  gentlemen  again 
landed,  but  promised  to  come  off  at  a  moments  warning ;  they 
again  forgot  their  promise  in  their  eager  pursuit  of  wild  geese 
and  sea  wolves.  After  a  time  the  wind  hauled  fair,  and  signals 
were  made  for  the  boat.  Half  an  hour  elapsed  but  no  boat 
put  off.  The  captain  reconnoitred  the  shore  with  his  glass, 
and,  to  his  infinite  vexation,  saw  the  loiterers  in  the  full  enjoy- 
ment of  their  "  wildgoosechasc.''  Nettled  to  the  quick,  he 
immediately  made  sail.  When  those  on  shore  saw  the  ship 
actually  under  way,  they  embarked  with  all  speed,  but  had  a 
hard  pull  of  eight  miles  before  they  got  on  board,  and  then 
experienced  but  a  grim  receptioii,  notwithstanding  that  they 
came  well  laden  with  the  spoils  of  the  chase. 

Two  days  afterwards,  on  the  seventh  of  December,  they 
anchored  at  Port  Egmont   in   the   same  island,  where  they 


MM 


11    '      li'ii.i'li: 


68 


PENGUIN    SHOOTING — EPITAri!    IHNTINO. 


I  , 


if 


remained  four  days  taking  in  water  and  making  repairs.  This 
was  a  joyous  time  lor  the  landsmen.  'I'iiey  pitched  a  tent  on 
shore,  had  a  boat  at  their  command  and  passed  their  time 
merrily  in  rambling  about  the  island,  and  coasting  along  the 
shores,  shooting  sea  lions,  seals,  foxes,  geese,  ducks  and  pen- 
guins. None  were  keener  in  pursuit  of  this  kind  of  game 
than  M'Dougal  and  David  Stuart ;  the  latter  was  reminded 
of  aquatic  sports  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  his  hunting 
exploits  in  the  north-west. 

In  the  meantime  the  captain  addressed  himself  steadily  to 
the  business  of  his  ship,  scorning  the  holiday  spirit  and  useless 
pursuits  of  his  emancipated  messmates,  and  warning  them,  from 
time  to  time,  not  to  wander  away  nor  be  out  of  hail.  They 
promised,  as  usual,  that  the  ship  should  never  experience  a 
moment's  detention  on  their  account,  but,  as  usual,  forgot  their 
promise. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  the  repairs  being  all  finished, 
and  the  water  casks  replenished,  the  signal  was  given  to  em- 
bark, and  the  ship  began  to  weigh  anchor.  At  this  time  several 
of  the  passengers  were  dispersed  about  the  island,  amusing 
themselves  in  various  ways.  Some  of  the  young  men  had  foimd 
two  inscriptions,  in  English,  over  a  place  where  two  unfortu- 
nate mariners  had  been  buried  in  this  desert  island.  As  the 
inscriptions  were  nearly  worn  out  by  time  and  weather,  they 
were  playing  the  part  of  "  Old  Mortality,"  and  piously  renew- 
ing them.  The  signal  from  the  ship  summoned  them  from  their 
labors ;  they  saw  the  sails  unfurled,  and  that  it  was  getting 
under  way.  The  two  sporting  partners,  however,  Mr.  M'Dou- 
gal and  David  Stuart,  had  strolled  away  to  the  south  of  the 
island  in  pursuit  of  penguins.  It  woidd  never  do  to  put  off 
without  them,  as  there  was  but  one  boat  to  convey  the  whole. 

While  this  delay  took  place  on  shore,  the  captain  was  storm- 


SPORTSMEN    IN    TIIK    UIU  II. 


63 


ing  on  hoard.  This  was  tho  tliird  tiiiu)  his  orders  had  beon 
irtntcd  with  contempt,  and  the  ship  wantoidy  d«'taincd,  and  it 
should  l)e  the  last ;  so  ho  spread  all  sail  and  put  to  sea,  swear- 
ing ho  would  leave  the  lagirards  to  shift  lor  thoinselves.  It  was 
in  vain  that  those  on  Ijoard  inad(!  remonstrances  and  entreaties, 
and  represented  tlu!  horrors  ol'  abaiidoninjij  men  upon  a  sterile 
and  uninhabited  island:  the  sturdy  i-aptain  was  inflexible. 

In  the  meantim*',  the  penguin  hunters  had  joined  the  engra- 
vers of  tombstones,  but  not  before  the  ship  was  already  out  at 
sea.  They  all,  to  the  number  of  eight,  tlirew  themselves  into 
their  boat,  which  was  about  twenty  feet  in  length,  and  rowed 
with  might  and  main.  For  three  hours  and  a  half  did  they  tug 
anxiously  and  severely  at  the  oar,  swashed  occasionally  by  the 
surging  wavers  of  the  open  sea,  while  the  ship  inexorably  kept 
on  her  course,  and  seemed  determined  to  leave  them  bt^hind. 

On  board  of  the  ship  was  the  nephew  of  David  Stuart,  a 
yotmg  man  of  spirit  and  resolution.  Seeing,  as  he  thought,  the 
captain  obstinately  bent  upon  abandoning  his  uncle  and  the 
others,  he  seized  a  pistol,  and  in  a  paroxysm  of  wrath  swore 
he  would  blow  out  the  captain's  brains,  unless  he  put  about  or 
shortened  sail. 

Fortunately  for  all  parties,  the  wind  just  then  came  ahead, 
and  the  boat  was  enabled  to  reach  the  ship ;  otherwise,  dis- 
astrous circumstances  might  have  ensued.  We  can  hardly 
believe  that  the  captain  really  intended  to  carry  his  threat  into 
full  effect,  and  rather  think  he  meant  to  let  the  laggards  off  for 
a  long  pull  and  a  hearty  fright.  He  declared,  however,  in  his 
letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  that  he  was  serious  in  his  threats  ;  and  there 
is  no  knowing  how  far  such  an  iron  man  may  push  his  notions 
of  authority. 

"  Had  the  wind,"  writes  he,  "  (imfortunately)  not  hauled  ahead 
soon  after  leaving  the  harbor's  mouth,  I  should  positively  havo 


^Ififfir-- 


'i| 


#  t 


•:r;i^ 


64 


CROSS    PUPPOSES. 


1  '' 


'       v 


^!        ,1:.    :'l. 


left  them;  and,  indeed,  I  cannot  but  think  it  an  unfortunate 
circumstance  for  you  that  it  so  happened,  for  the  first  loss  in 
this  instance  would,  in  my  opinion,  have  proved  the  best,  as 
they  seem  to  have  no  idea  of  the  value  of  property,  nor  any 
apparent  regard  for  your  interest,  although  interwoven  with 
their  own." 

This,  it  must  be  confessed,  was  acting  with  a  high  hand,  and 
carrying  a  regard  to  the  owner's  property  to  a  dangerous  length. 
Various  petty  feuds  occurred  also  between  him  and  the  partners 
in  respect  to  the  goods  on  board  the  ship,  some  articles  of  which 
they  wished  to  distribute  for  clothing  among  the  men,  or  for 
other  purposes  which  they  deemed  essential.  The  captain, 
however,  kept  a  mastiff  watch  upon  the  cargo,  and  growled  and 
snapped  if  they  but  offered  to  touch  box  or  bale.  "  It  was  con- 
trary to  orders  ;  it  would  forfeit  his  insurance  ;  it  was  out  of  all 
rule."  It  was  in  vain  they  insisted  upon  their  right  to  do  so, 
as  part  owners,  and  as  acting  for  the  good  of  the  enterprise ; 
the  captain  only  stuck  to  his  point  the  more  staunchly.  They 
consoled  themselves,  therefore,  by  declaring,  that  as  soon  as 
they  made  land  they  would  assert  their  rights,  and  do  with  ship 
and  cargo  as  they  pleased. 

Beside  these  feuds  between  the  captain  and  the  partners, 
there  were  feuds  between  the  partners  themselves^  occasioned, 
in  some  measure,  by  jealousy  of  rank.  M'Dougal  and  M'Kay 
began  to  draw  plans  for  the  fort,  and  other  buildings  of  the 
intended  establishment.  They  agreed  very  well  as  to  the 
outline  and  dimensions,  which  Avere  on  a  sufficiently  grand 
scale  ;  but  when  they  came  to  arrange  the  details,  fierce  dis- 
putes arose,  and  they  would  quarrel  by  the  hour  about  the 
distribution  of  the  doors  and  windows.  Many  were  the  hard 
words  and  hard  names  bandied  between  them  on  these  occa- 
sions, according  to  the  captain's  account.     Each  accused  the 


ft 
I 

$ 


i 


-J 
1 


i 


ARRIVAL    AT    OVVYHEE. 


65 


n 


ifortunate 
st loss  in 
I  best,  as 
nor  any 
ven  with 

land,  and 
IS  length. 

partners 
of  which 
en,  or  for 

captain, 
wled  and 
was  con- 
out  of  all 
to  do  so, 
iterprise ; 
r.     They 

soon  as 
with  ship 


other  of  endeavoring  to  assume  unwarrantable  power,  and  to 
take  the  lead;  upon  which  Mr,  M'Dougal  would  vauntingly 
lay  down  Mr.  Astor's  letter,  constituting  him  his  representative 
and  proxy,  a  documoit  not  to  be  disputed. 

These  wordy  contests,  though  violent,  were  brief;  "and 
within  fifteen  minutes,"  says  the  captain,  "they  would  be 
caressing  each  other  like  children." 

While  all  this  petty  anarchy  was  agitating  the  little  world 
witliin  the  Tonquin,  the  good  ship  prosperously  pursued  her 
course,  doubled  Cape  Horn  on  the  25th  of  December,  careered 
across  the  bosom  of  the  Pacific,  until,  on  the  11th  of  February, 
the  snowy  peaks  of  Owyhee  were  seen  brightening  above  the 
horizon. 


6* 


partners, 
casioned, 
d  M'Kay 
rs  of  the 
,s  to  the 
ly  grand 
erce  dis- 
,bout  the 
the  hard 
5se  occa- 
lused  the 


66 


OWYHEE 


■0% 


I  1 


CHAPTER  VI, 


Owyhee — Sandwich    islanders — their    nautical    talents — Tamaah- 

MAAH HIS  N\vy HIS    NEGOTIATIONS VIEWS    OF    Mr.  AsTOR    WITH    RE- 
SPECT TO  THE  Sandwich  islands — Karakakora — royal  monopoly  of 

PORK DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    ISLANDERS GAYETIES    ON    SHORE CHRONI- 
CLER    OF    THE     ISLAND PLACE     WHERE     CaPTAIN     CoOK     WAS     KILLED 

John  Young,  a  nautical  governor — his  story — Waititi — a  royal 

residence a  royal  visit grand  ceremonials close  dealing a 

royal  pork  merchant grievances  of  a  matter-of-fact  man. 


>;f 


!i' 


OwvHEE,  or  Hawaii  as  it  is  Avritten  by  more  exact  orthogra- 
phers,  is  the  largest  of  the  cluster,  ten  in  number,  of  the  Sand- 
wich islands.  It  is  about  ninety-seven  miles  in  length,  and 
seventy-eight  in  breadth,  rising  gradually  into  three  pyramidal 
summits  or  cones ;  the  highest,  Mouna  Roa,  being  eighteen 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  so  as  to  domineer 
over  the  whole  Archipelago,  and  to  be  a  landmark  over  a  wide 
extent  of  ocean.  It  remains  a  lasting  monument  of  the  en- 
terprising and  unfortunate  Captain  Cook,  who  was  murdered 
by  the  natives  of  this  island. 

The  Sandwich  islanders,  when  first  discovered,  evinced  a 
character  superior  to  most  of  the  savages  of  the  Pacific  isles. 
They  were  frank  and  open  in  their  deportment,  friendly  and 
liberal  in  their  dealings,  with  an  apt  ingenuity  apparent  in  all 
their  rude  inventions. 

The  tragical  fate  of  the  discoverer,  which,  for  a  time, 
brought  them  under  the  charge  of  ferocity,  was,  in  fact,  the 


I 

I 


f-.. 


TAMAAHMAAH HIS    NAVY. 


67 


result  of  sudden  exasperation,  caused  by  the  seizure  of  their 
chief. 

At  the  time  of  the  visit  of  the  Tonquin,  the  islanders  had 
profited,  in  many  respects,  by  occasional  intercourse  with 
white  men ;  and  had  shown  a  quickness  to  observe  and  culti- 
vate those  arts  important  to  their  mode  of  living.  Originally 
they  had  no  means  of  navigating  the  seas  by  which  they  were 
surrounded,  superior  to  I'f^ht  pirogues,  which  Avere  little  com- 
petent to  contend  with  the  storms  of  the  broad  ocean.  As  the 
islands  are  not  in  sight  of  each  other,  there  could,  therefore, 
be  but  casual  intercourse  between  them.  The  traffic  with 
white  men  had  put  them  in  possession  of  vessels  of  superior 
description ;  they  had  made  themselves  acquainted  with  their 
management,  and  had  even  made  rude  advances  in  the  art  of 
ship  building. 

These  improvements  had  been  promoted,  in  a  great  measure, 
by  the  energy  and  sagacity  of  one  man,  the  famous  Tamaah- 
maah.  He  had  originally  been  a  petty  ori,  or  chief;  but,  being 
of  an  intrepid  and  aspiring  nature,  he  had  risen  in  rank,  and, 
availing  himself  of  the  superior  advantages  now  afforded  in 
navigation,  had  brought  the  whole  Archipelago  in  subjection  to 
his  arms.  At  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Tonquin  he  had 
about  forty  schooners,  of  from  twenty  to  thirty  tons  burthen, 
and  one  old  American  ship.  With  these  he  maintained  undis- 
puted sway  over  his  insular  domains,  and  carried  on  an  inter- 
course with  the  chiefs  or  governors  whom  he  had  placed  in 
command  of  the  several  islands. 

The  situation  of  this  group  of  islands,  far  in  the  bosom  of 
the  vast  Pacific,  and  their  abundant  fertility,  rendered  them 
important  stopping  places  on  the  hiyhway  to  China,  or  to  the 
north-west  coast  of  America.  Here  the  vessels  engaged  in 
the  fur  trade  touched  to  make  repairs  and  procure  provisions  ; 


f  $ 


m 


68 


HIS    VISIT    TO    ENGLAND. 


i 


f:        1. 


'!^     (. 


\l      ;     ■ 


and  here  they  often  sheltered  themselves  during  the  winters 
that  occurred  in  their  long  coasting  expeditions. 

The  British  navigators  were,  from  the  first,  aware  of  the 
value  of  these  islands  to  the  purposes  of  commerce  ;  and 
Tamaahmaah,  not  long  after  he  had  attained  the  sovereign 
sway,  was  persuaded  by  Vancouver,  the  celebrated  discoverer, 
to  acknowledge,  on  behalf  of  himself  and  subjects,  allegiance 
to  the  king  of  Great  Britain.  The  reader  cannot  but  call 
to  mind  the  visit  which  the  royal  family  and  court  of  the 
Sandwich  islands  was,  in  late  years,  induced  to  make  to  the 
court  of  St.  James  ;  and  the  serio-comic  ceremonials  and  mock 
parade  which  attended  that  singular  travesty  of  monarchal 
•style. 

It  was  a  part  of  the  wide  and  compreheasive  plan  of  Mr. 
Astor  to  establish  a  friendly  intercourse  between  these  islands 
and  his  intended  colony,  which  might,  for  a  time,  have  occa- 
sion to  draw  supplies  thence  ;  and  he  even  had  a  vague  idea 
of,  some  time  or  other,  getting  possession  of  one  of  their 
islands  as  a  rendezvous  for  iiis  ships,  and  a  link  in  the  chain 
of  his  commercial  establishments. 

On  the  evening  of  the  12th  of  February  the  Tonquin 
anchored  in  the  bay  of  Karakakooa,  in  the  island  of  Owyhee. 
The  surrounding  shores  were  wild  and  broken,  Avith  over- 
hanging clifTs  and  precipices  of  black  volcanic  rock.  Beyond 
these,  however,  the  country  was  fertile  and  well  cultivated, 
with  enclosures  of  yams,  plantains,  sweet  potatoes,  sugar- 
canes,  and  other  productions  of  warm  climates  and  teeming 
soils ;  and  the  numerous  habitations  of  the  natives  were  pleas- 
antly sheltered  beneath  clumps  of  cocoa-nut  and  bread-fruit 
trees,  which  aflbrded  both  food  and  shade.  This  mingled 
variety  of  garden  and  grove  swept  gradually  up  the  sides  of 
the  mountains,  until  succeeded  by  dense  forests,  which  in 


1 

i 


I 


i 


WOAHOO ROYAL    MONOPOLY. 


69 


turn  gave  place  to  naked  and  craggy  rocks,  until  the  summits 
rose  into  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow. 

The  royal  residence  of  Tamaahmaah  was  at  this  time  at 
another  island  named  Woahoo.  The  island  of  Owyhee  was 
under  the  command  of  one  of  his  eris,  or  chiefs,  who  resided 
at  the  village  of  Tocaigh,  situated  on  a  different  part  of  the 
coast  from  the  bay  of  Karakakooa. 

On  the  morning  after  her  arrival,  the  ship  was  surrounded 
by  canoes  and  pirogues,  filled  with  the  islanders  of  both 
sexes,  bringing  off  supplies  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  bananas, 
plantains,  watermelons,  yams,  cabbages,  and  taro.  The  cap- 
tain was  desirous,  however,  of  purchasing  a  number  of  hogs, 
but  there  were  none  to  be  had.  The  trade  in  pork  was  a 
royal  monopoly,  and  no  subject  of  the  great  Tamaahmaah 
dared  to  meddle  with  it.  Such  provisions  as  they  could  fur- 
nish, however,  were  brought  by  the  natives  in  abundance,  and 
a  lively  intercourse  was  kept  up  during  the  day,  in  which  the 
women  mingled  in  the  kindest  manner. 

The  islanders  are  a  comely  race,  of  a  copper  complexion. 
The  men  are  tall  and  well  made,  with  forms  indicating 
strength  and  activity ;  the  women  with  regular  and  occasion- 
ally handsome  features,  and  a  lascivious  expression,  charac- 
teristic of  their  tcmpcunent.  Their  style  of  dress  was 
nearly  the  same  as  in  the  days  of  Captain  Cook.  The  men 
wore  the  maro,  a  band  one  foot  in  width  and  several  feet  in 
length,  swathed  round  the  loins,  and  formed  of  tappa,  or  cloth 
of  bark;  the  kihei,  or  mantle,  about  six  feet  square,  tied  in  a 
knot  over  one  shoulder,  passed  under  tlie  oj)posite  arm,  so  as 
to  leaA'e  it  bare,  and  falling  in  graceful  folds  before  and  behind, 
to  the  knee,  so  as  to  bear  some  resemblance  to  a  Roman  toga. 

The  female  dress  consisted  of  the  pau,  a  garment  formed 
of  a  piece  of  tappa,  several  yards  in  length  and  one  in  width, 


1  k     ', 


70 


A    DANCE — AN    ISLAND    CHRONICLER. 


1 


1-1  ( 


i;,' 


\)    i' 


wrapped  round  the  waist,  and  reaching  like  a  petticoat,  to  the 
knees.  Over  this  a  kihei  or  mantle,  larger  than  that  of  the 
men,  sometimes  worn  over  both  shoulders,  like  a  shawl,  some- 
times over  one  only.  These  mantles  were  seldom  worn  by 
either  sex  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  when  the  exposure  of 
their  persons  was  at  Hrst  very  revolting  to  a  civilized  eye. 

Towards  evening  several  of  the  partners  and  clerks  went 
on  shore,  where  they  were  well  received  and  hospitably 
entertained.  A  dance  was  performed  for  their  amusement, 
in  which  nineteen  young  women  and  one  man  figured  very 
gracefully,  singing  in  concert,  and  moving  to  the  cadence  of 
their  song. 

All  this,  however,  was  nothing  to  the  purpose  in  the 
eyes  of  Captain  Thorn,  who,  being  disappointed  in  his  hope 
of  obtaining  a  supply  of  pork,  or  finding  good  water,  was 
anxious  to  be  off.  This  it  was  not  so  easy  to  effect.  The 
passengers,  once  on  shore,  were  disposed,  as  usual,  to  profit 
by  the  occasion.  The  partners  had  many  inquiries  to  make 
relative  to  tlie  island,  with  a  view  to  business ;  while  the 
young  clerks  were  delighted  with  the  charms  and  graces  of 
the  dancing  dauisels. 

To  add  to  their  gratifications,  an  old  man  offered  to  conduct 
them  to  the  spot  where  Captain  Cook  was  massacred.  The 
proposition  was  eagerly  accepted,  and  all  hands  set  out  on 
a  pilgrimage  to  the  place.  The  veteran  islander  performed 
his  promise  faithfully,  and  pointed  out  the  very  spot  where 
the  unfortunate  discoverer  fell.  The  rocks  and  cocoa  trees 
aroimd  bore  record  of  the  fact,  in  the  marks  of  the  balls  fired 
from  the  boats  upon  the  savages.  The  pilj^rims  gathered 
round  the  old  man,  and  drew  from  him  all  the  particulars  ho 
had  to  relate  respecting  this  memorable  event ;  while  the 
honest  captain  stood  by  and  bit  his  nails  with  impatience. 


A    NAUTICAL    GOVERNOR. 


71 


M 


To  add  to  his  vexation,  tliey  employed  themselves  in  knock- 
ing off  pieces  of  the  rocks,  and  cutting  off  the  bark  of  the 
trees  marked  by  the  balls,  which  they  conveyed  back  to  the 
ship  as  precious  relics. 

Riglit  glad,  therei'ore,  was  he  to  get  them  and  their  trea- 
sures fairly  on  board,  -.vhen  he  made  sail  from  this  unprofitable 
place,  and  steered  for  the  bay  of  Tocaigh,  the  residence  of 
the  chief  or  governor  of  the  island,  where  he  hoped  to  be 
more  successful  in  obtaining  supplies.  On  coming  to  anchor 
the  captain  went  on  shore,  accompanied  by  Mr.  M'Dougal  and 
Mr.  M'Kay,  and  paid  a  visit  to  the  governor.  This  dignitary 
proved  to  be  an  old  sailor,  by  the  name  of  John  Young ;  who, 
after  being  tossed  about  the  seas  like  another  Sinbad,  had,  by 
one  of  the  whimsical  freaks  of  fortune,  been  elevated  to  the 
government  of  a  savage  island.  He  received  his  visiters  with 
more  hearty  familiarity  than  personages  in  his  high  station 
are  apt  to  indulge,  but  soon  gave  them  to  understand  that 
provisions  were  scanty  at  Tocaigh,  and  that  there  was  no 
good  water,  no  rain  having  fallen  in  the  neighborhood  in  three 
years. 

The  captain  was  immediately  for  breaking  up  the  conlcr- 
ence  and  departing,  but  the  partners  were  not  so  willing  to 
part  with  the  nautical  governor,  who  seemed  disposed  to  be 
extremely  communicative,  and  from  whom  they  might  be  able 
to  procure  some  useful  information.  A  long  conversation 
accordingly  ensued,  in  the  course  of  which  they  made  many 
inquiries  about  the  affairs  of  the  islands,  their  natural  produc- 
tions, and  the  possibility  of  turning  them  to  advantage  in  the 
way  of  trade  ;  nor  did  they  fail  to  inquire  into  the  individual 
history  of  John  Young,  and  how  he  came  to  be  governor. 
This  he  gave  with  great  condescension,  running  through  the 
whole  course  of  his  fortunes  '*  even  from  his  boyish  days." 


12 


STORY    OF   JOHN    YOUNG. 


! 

'f. 

i' 

■'!'■, 

1     : 

1 

i 

1 

. 

/ 

i  ,  1 


.','■' 


He  was  a  native  of  Liverpool,  in  England,  and  had  fol- 
lowed the  sea  from  his  boyhood,  until,  by  dint  of  good 
conduct,  he  had  risen  so  far  in  his  profession  as  to  be  boat- 
swain of  an  American  ship  called  the  Eleanor,  commanded 
by  Captain  Metcalf.  In  this  vessel  he  had  sailed  in  1789,  on 
one  of  those  casual  expeditions  to  the  north-west  coast,  in 
quest  of  furs.  In  the  course  of  the  voyage,  the  captain  left 
a  small  schooner  named  the  Fair  American,  at  Nootka,  with 
a  crew  of  five  men,  commanded  by  his  son,  a  youth  of 
eighteen.     She  was  to  foUow  on  in  the  track  of  the  Eleanor. 

In  February,  1790,  Captain  Metcalf  touched  at  the  island 
of  Mowee,  one  of  the  Sandwich  group.  While  anchored 
here,  a  boat  which  was  astern  of  the  Eleanor  was  stolen,^nd 
a  seaman  who  was  in  it  was  killed.  The  natives,  generally, 
disclaimed  the  outrage,  and  brought  the  shattered  remains 
of  the  boat  and  the  dead  body  of  the  seaman  to  the  ship. 
Supposing  that  they  had  thus  appeased  the  anger  of  the 
captain,  they  thronged,  as  usual,  in  great  numbers  about  the 
vessel,  to  trade.  Captain  Metcalf,  however,  determined  on  a 
bloody  revenge.  The  Eleanor  mounted  ten  guns ;  all  these 
he  ordered  to  be  loaded  with  musket  balls,  nails,  and  pieces 
of  old  iron,  and  then  fired  them,  and  the  small  arms  of  the 
ship,  among  the  natives.  The  havoc  was  dreadful ;  more 
than  a  hundred,  according  to  Young's  account,  were  slain. 

After  this  signal  act  of  vengeance  Captain  Metcalf  sailed 
from  Mowee,  and  made  for  the  island  of  Owyhee,  where  he 
was  well  received  by  Tamaahmaah.  The  fortunes  of  this 
warlike  chief  were  at  that  time  on  the  rise.  He  had  origin- 
ally been  of  inferior  rank,  ruling  over  only  one  or  two  districts 
in  Owyhee,  but  had  gradually  made  himself  sovereign  of  his 
native  island. 

The   Eleanor  remained  some   few  days  at  anchor  here, 


1 


STORY    OF    JOHN    YOUNG. 


73 


lad  fol- 
)f   good 
be  boat- 
imanded 
.789,  on 
;oast,  in 
tain  left 
ka,  with 
outh   of 
lleanor. 
e  island 
m  chore  d 
)len,<^nd 
enerally, 
remains 
he  ship, 
r  of  the 
bout  the 
led  on  a 
all  these 
id  pieces 
IS  of  the 
il ;   more 
ain. 

df  sailed 
.vhere  he 
of  this 
id  origin- 
districts 
^  of  his 

or  here, 


and  an  apparently  friendly  intercourse  was  kept  up  with  the 
inhabitants.  On  the  17ih  March,  John  Young  obtained  per- 
mission to  pass  the  night  on  shore.  On  the  following  morning 
a  signal  gun  summoned  him  to  return  on  board. 

He  went  to  the  shore  to  embark,  but  found  all  the  canoes 
hauled  up  on  the  beach  and  rigorously  tabooed,  or  interdicted. 
He  would  have  launched  one  himself,  but  was  informed  by 
Tamaahmaah  that  if  he  presumed  to  do  so  he  would  be  put  to 
death. 

Young  was  obliged  to  submit,  and  remained  all  day  in  great 
perplexity  to  account  for  this  mysterious  taboo,  and  fearl'ul 
that  some  hostility  was  intended.  In  the  evening  he  learned 
the  cause  of  it,  and  his  uneasiness  was  increased.  It  appeared 
that  the  vindictive  act  of  Captain  Metcalf  had  recoiled  upon 
his  own  head.  The  schooner  Fair  American,  commanded  by 
his  son,  following  in  his  track,  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
the  natives  to  the  southward  of  Tocaigh  bay,  and  young  ]Met- 
calf  and  four  of  the  crew  had  been  massacred. 

On  receiving  intelligence  of  this  event,  Tamaahmaah  had 
immediately  tabooed  all  the  canoes,  and  interdicted  all  inter- 
course with  the  ship,  lest  the  captain  should  learn  the  fate  of 
the  schooner,  and  take  his  revenge  upon  the  island.  For  the 
same  reason  he  prevented  Young  from  rejoining  his  country- 
men. The  Eleanor  continued  to  fire  signals  from  time  to  time 
for  two  days,  and  then  sailed ;  concluding,  no  doubt,  that  the 
boatswain  had  deserted. 

John  Young  was  in  despair  when  he  saw  the  ship  make  sail, 
and  found  himself  abandoned  among  savages  ; — and  savages, 
too,  sanguinary  in  their  character,  and  inflamed  by  acts  of 
hostility.  He  was  agreeably  disappointed,  however,  in  expe- 
riencing nothing  but  kind  treatment  from  Tamaalunaah  and  his 
people.     It  is  true,  he   was   narrowly   watched   whenever  a 


74 


PROMOTION    IN    SAVAGE    LIFE. 


3 


vessel  came  in  sight,  lest  he  should  escape  and  relate  what 
had  passed ;  but  at  other  times  he  was  treated  with  entire 
confidence  and  great  distinction.  He  became  a  prime  favor- 
ite, cabinet  counsellor,  and  active  coadjutor  of  Tamaahmaah, 
attending  him  in  all  his  excursions,  whether  of  business  or 
pleasure,  and  aiding  in  his  warlike  and  ambitious  enterprises. 
By  degrees  he  rose  to  the  rank  of  a  chief,  espoused  one  of 
the  beauties  of  the  island,  and  became  habituated  and  recon- 
ciled to  his  new  way  of  life  ;  thinking  it  better,  perhaps,  to 
rule  among  savages  than  serve  among  white  men ;  to  be  a 
feathered  chief  than  a  tarpawling  boatswain.  His  favor  with 
Tamaahmaah  never  declined ;  and  when  that  sagacious,  intre- 
pid, and  aspiring  chieftain  had  made  himself  sovereign  over 
the  whole  group  of  islands,  and  removed  his  residence  to 
Woahoo,  he  left  his  faithful  adherent  John  Young  in  command 
of  Owyhee. 

Such  is  an  outline  of  the  history  of  Governor  Young,  as 
furnished  by  himself;  and  we  regret  that  we  are  not  able  to 
give  any  account  of  the  state  maintained  by  this  seafaring 
worthy,  and  the  manner  in  which  he  discharged  his  high 
functions ;  though  it  is  evident  he  had  more  of  the  hearty 
familiarity  of  the  forecastle  than  tlie  dignity  of  the  guberna- 
torial office. 

These  long  conferences  were  bitter  trials  to  the  patience  of 
the  captain,  who  had  no  respect  either  for  the  governor  or  his 
island,  and  was  anxious  to  push  on  in  quest  of  provisions  and 
water.  As  soon  as  he  could  get  his  inquisitive  partners  once 
more  on  board,  he  weighed  anchor,  and  made  sail  for  the 
island  of  Woahoo,  the  royal  residence  of  Tamaahmaah. 

This  is  the  most  beautiful  island  of  the  Sandwich  group. 
It  is  forty-six  miles  in  length  and  twenty-three  in  breadth.  A 
ridge  of  volcanic  mountains  extends  through  the  centre,  rising 


i 


A    ROYAL    VISIT — GRAND    CEREMONIALS, 


75 


!  what 

entire 

favor- 
imaah, 
less  or 
■prises, 
one  of 

recon- 
laps,  to 
,0  be  a 
or  with 
s,  intre- 
gn  over 
ence  to 
ommand 

ung,  as 

It  able  to 

eafaring 

is  high 

hearty 

ubcrna- 

lience  of 

)r  or  his 

ions  and 

lers  once 

for  the 

Ih. 

group. 
Ldth.  A 
|e,  rising 


I 


into  lofty  peaks,  and  skirted  by  undulating  hills  and  rich 
plains,  where  the  cabins  of  the  natives  peep  out  from  beneath 
groves  of  cocoa-nut  and  other  luxuriant  trees. 

On  the  21st  of  February  the  Tonquin  cast  anchor  in  the 
beautiful  bay  before  the  village  of  Waititi,  (pronounced  Why- 
leetoe,)  the  abode  of  Taniuahinaah.  This  village  contained 
about  two  hundred  habitations,  coiiiposod  of  pedes  set  in  the 
ground,  tied  together  at  the  ends,  and  thatched  with  grass,  and 
was  situated  in  an  open  grove  of  cocoa-nuts.  The  royal 
palace  of  Taniaahmaah  was  a  large  house  of  two  stories ;  the 
lower  of  stone,  the  upper  of  wood.  Round  this  his  body- 
guard kep.  watch,  composed  of  twenty-four  men,  in  long  blue 
cassocks  turned  up  with  yellow,  and  each  armed  with  a 
musket. 

While  at  anchor  at  this  place,  much  ceremonious  visiting 
and  long  conferences  took  place  between  the  potentate  of 
the  islands  and  the  partners  of  the  company,  Tamaahmaah 
came  on  board  of  the  ship  in  royal  style,  in  his  double 
pirogue.  He  was  between  fifty  and  sixty  years  of  age,  above 
the  middle  size,  large  and  well  made,  though  somewhat 
corpulent.  He  was  dressed  in  an  old  suit  of  regimentals, 
with  a  sword  by  his  side,  and  seemed  somewhat  embarrassed 
by  his  magnificent  attire.  Three  of  his  wives  accompanied 
him.  They  were  almost  as  tall,  and  (piite  as  corpulent  as 
himself ;  but  by  no  means  to  be  compared  with  him  in 
grandeur  of  habiliments,  wearing  no  other  garb  than  the  pau. 
With  him,  also,  came  his  great  favorite  and  confidential 
counsellor,  Kraimaker ;  who,  from  holding  a  post  equivalent 
to  that  of  prime  minister,  had  been  familiarly  named  Billy 
Pitt  by  the  British  visiters  to  the  islands. 

The   sovereign    was    received   with    befitting    ceremonial. 
The  American  flag  was  displayed,  four  guns  were  fired,  and 


76 


TITM'.S    AM)    Cl-RKMONIALS, 


11 


the  partners  ai)pr;u(Ml  in  scjirlct  coiits,  and  conducted  tlioir 
illustrious  yuosts  to  tlu;  cabin,  where  they  were  regaled  with 
wine.  In  this  interview  the;  ])artners  end(>avored  to  nnpress 
the  monarch  with  a  sense  oC  their  inii>ortarice,  and  of  the 
iinportanci!  of  the  association  to  which  they  belonged.  They 
let  him  know  that  they  were  eris,  or  chiefs,  of  a  great 
company  about  to  be  established  on  the  north-west  coast, 
and  talked  of  the  probability  of  opening  a  trade  with  his 
islands,  and  of  sending  ships  there  occasionally.  All  this 
was  gratifying  and  interesting  to  him,  for  ho  was  aware  of 
the  advantages  of  trad(>,  and  desirous  of  promoting  frequent 
intercourse  with  white  men.  He  encouraged  Europeans  and 
Americans  to  settle  in  his  islands  and  intermarry  with  his 
subjects.  There  were  between  twenty  and  thirty  white  men 
at  that  time  resident  in  the  island,  but  many  of  them  were 
mere  vagabonds,  who  remained  there  in  hopes  of  loading  a 
Uizy  and  an  easy  life.  For  such  Tamaahmaah  had  a  great 
contempt ;  those  only  had  his  esteem  and  countenance  who 
knew  some  trade  or  mechanic  art,  and  were  sober  and 
industrious. 

On  the  day  subsequent  to  the  monarch's  visit,  the  partners 
landed  and  waited  upon  him  in  return.  Knowing  the  elTect 
of  show  and  dress  upon  men  in  savage  lift;,  and  wishing  to 
make  a  favorable  impression  as  the  eris,  or  chiefs,  of  the 
great  American  Fur  Company,  some  of  them  appeared  in 
Highland  plaids  and  kelts,  to  the  great  admiration  of  the 
natives. 

While  visits  of  ceremony  and  grand  diplomatic  conferences 
were  going  on  between  the  partners  and  the  king,  the  captain, 
in  his  plain,  matter-of-fact  way,  was  pushing  what  he  con- 
sidered a  far  more  important  negotiation  :  the  purchase  of  a 
supply  of  hogs.     He  found  that  the  king  had  profited  in  more 


1 

4 


A    ROYAL    POnK    MERCHANT. 


77 


0(1  tlioir 
led  with 
impress 
I  of  the 
.     Thry 
iv    irrcat 
sr,  coast, 
with  his 
All  this 
iwaro  of 
frequent 
eans  and 
with  his 
hite  men 
em  were 
oading  a 
a  great 
ncc  who 
jbcr   and 

partners 

le  eiTect 

ishing  to 

,  of  the 

enrcd   in 

n  of  the 

ifcrences 
!  captain, 

he  con- 
lasc  of  a 

in  more 


a 


f 


ways  than  one  by  his  intercourse  with  white  men.  Above 
all  otiicr  arts  he  had  learned  the  art  of  driving  a  bargain.  He 
was  a  magnanimous  momircli,  but  a  shrewd  pork  merchant ; 
and  perhaps  thought  ho  could  not  do  better  with  his  future 
allies,  the  American  F'ur  Company,  than  to  begin  by  close 
dealing.  Several  interviews  were  rcciuisit*-,  and  imich  bar- 
gaining, before  he  could  bo  brought  to  part  with  a  bristle  of 
his  bacon,  and  then  he  insisted  upon  being  paid  in  hard 
►S[)anish  dollars  ;  giving  as  a  reason  that  lu;  wanted  money  to 
purcliasse  a  frigate  from  his  brother  (jJeorge,  as  he  alVection- 
ately  termed  the  king  of  Kngland.* 

At  length  the  royal  bargain  was  concluded  ;  the  necessary 
supply  of  hogs  obtained,  beside  several  goats,  two  sheep,  a 
quantity  of  poultry,  and  vegetables  in  abundance.  The  part- 
ners now  urged  to  recruit  their  forces  from  tiic  natives  of  this 
island.  They  declared  they  had  never  seen  watermen  ('(pial 
to  them,  even  among  the  voyageurs  of  the  north-west ;  and, 

+  It  appears,  from  tlie  accounts  of  suhsoqucnt  voyagors,  that  Tamaah- 
maali  afterw.irds  succeeded  in  liia  wish  of  |)urcliasing  a  large  sliip.  In 
tliis  lie  sent  a  cargo  of  sandal  wood  to  Canton,  having  discoviTcd  tliat  the 
foreign  merclianta  trading  witli  iiini  made  large  profits  on  this  wood,  shipped 
by  them  from  the  islands  to  tiie  Chinese  marki  ts.  The  ship  was  manned 
by  natives,  but  the  officers  were  Englishmin.  She  accomplished  her  voyage, 
and  returned  in  safety  to  the  islands,  witli  the  Hawaiian  flag  lloating  glori- 
ously in  the  breeze.  The  king  hastened  on  board,  expecting  to  find  his 
sandal  wood  converted  into  crapes  and  damasks,  and  other  rich  stutls  of 
China,  but  found,  to  his  astonishment,  by  the  legt.deniain  of  traffic,  his 
cargo  had  all  disappeared,  and,  in  place  of  it,  remained  a  bill  of  charges 
amounting  to  three  thousand  dollars,  it  was  some  time  bt^fore  \\v  could  be 
made  to  comprehend  certain  of  the  most  important  items  of  the  bill,  such  as 
pilotag(>,  anchorage,  and  custom-house  fees ;  but  wlii-n  hr;  discovered  that 
maritime  states  in  other  countries  derived  large  revenues  in  this  manner,  to 
the  great  cost  of  the  merchant,  "  Well,"  cried  he,  "  then  I  will  have  harbor 
fees  also."  He  established  them  accorilingly.  Pilotage  a  dollar  a  foot  on 
the  draft  of  each  vessel.  Anchorage  from  sixty  to  seventy  dollars.  In  this 
way  lu  greatly  increased  the  royal  revenue,  anil  turned  his  Cliina  speculation 
to  account. 


78 


COMMENTS    OF    A    MATTER-OF-FACT    MAN. 


1  :,  I, 

li         '.      ',i 


-r:il- 


indeed,  tluiy  are  remarkable  for  their  skill  in  managing  their 
iiglit  craft,  and  can  swim  and  dive  like  waterfowl.  The 
partners  were  inclined  therefore  to  take  thirty  or  forty  with 
them  to  the  Columbia,  to  be  employed  in  the  service  of  the 
company.  The  captain,  however,  ol)jected  that  there  was  not 
room  in  his  vessel  for  the  accommodation  of  such  a  number. 
Twelve,  only,  were  therefore  enlisted  for  the  company,  and 
as  many  more  for  the  service  of  the  ship.  The  former 
engaged  to  serve  for  the  term  of  three  years,  during  which 
they  w<!re  to  be  fed  and  clothed ;  and  at  the  expiration  of 
the  time  were  to  receive  one  hundred  dollars  in  merchandise. 

And  now,  having  embarked  his  live  stock,  fruits,  vegetables, 
and  water,  the  captain  made  ready  to  set  sail.  How  much 
the  honest  man  had  sufl'ered  in  spirit  by  what  he  considered 
the  freaks  and  vagaries  of  his  passengers,  and  how  little  he 
had  understood  their  humors  and  intentions,  is  annisingly 
shown  in  a  letter  written  to  Mr.  Astor  from  Woahoo,  which 
contains  his  comments  on  the  scenes  we  have  described. 

"  It  would  be  diflkult,"  he  writes,  "  to  imagine  the  frantic 
gambols  that  are  daily  played  ofi'  here  ;  sometimes  dressing 
in  red  coats,  and  otherwise  very  fantastically,  and  collecting 
a  number  of  ignorant  natives  around  them,  telling  them  they 
are  the  great  cai'es  of  the  north-west,  and  making  arrange- 
ments for  sending  three  or  four  vessels  yearly  to  them  from 
the  coast  with  spars,  &c. ;  while  those  very  natives  cannot 
even  furnish  a  hog  to  the  ship.  Then  dressing  in  Highland 
plaids  and  kelts,  and  making  similar  arrangements,  with  pre- 
sents of  rum,  wine,  or  any  thing  that  is  at  hand.  Then 
taking  a  number  of  clerks  and  men  on  shore  to  the  very  spot 
on  which  Captain  Cook  was  killed,  and  each  fetching  off  a 
piece  of  the  rock  or  tree  that  was  touched  by  the  shot.  Then 
setting  down  with  some  white  man  or  some  native  who  can 


I 


I 


f 


ing  their 
vl.  The 
)rty  with 
:e  of  the 
!  was  not 
number, 
any,  and 
D  former 
ig  which 
ration  of 
landise. 
getables, 
)w  much 
insidered 
Httle  he 
musingly 
o,  which 
ed. 

B  frantic 
dressing 
ollecting 
em  they 
arrange- 
dxn  from 
!  cannot 
Hghland 
ith  pre- 

Then 
ery  spot 
tig  off  a 

Then 
vho  can 


DEPARTURE    FROM    THE    ISLANDS. 


79 


be  a  Uule  understood,  and  coUecting  the  history  of  those 
islands,  of  Tamaahmaah's  wars,  the  curiosities  of  the  islands, 
&c.,  preparatory  to  the  histories  of  their  voyages ,  and  the 
collection  is  indeed  ridiculously  contemptible.  To  enumerate 
the  thousand  instances  of  ignorance,  filth,  &c.,  or  to  particu- 
larize  all  the  frantic  gambols  that  are  daily  practised,  would 
require  volumes." 

Before   embarking,   the    great   eris   of  the   American    Fur 
Company  took  leave  of  their  illustrious  ally  in  due  style,  with 
many  professions  of  lasting  friendship  and  promises  of  future 
intercourse;   while   the  mattcr-of-lact    captain   anathematized 
him  in  his  heart  for  a  grasping,  trafficking  savage  ;  as  shrewd 
and  sordid  in  his  dealings  as  a  white  man.     As  one  of  the 
vessels  of  the  company  will,  in  the  course  of  events,  have  to 
appeal  to  the  justice  and  magnanimity  of  this  island  poten- 
tate,  we  shall  see  how  far  the  honest  captain  was  right  in  his 
opinion. 


80 


DEPARTURE    FROM    THE    SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


ft 

il 


Il 


i  If 

I 


ii  I 
•i 

if 


i 


CHAPTER  Til. 

Departure   from   the   Sandwich  islands — misunderstandings — mise- 
ries   OF    A    suspicious    MAN ARRIVAL    AT    THE    COLUMBIA DANGEROUS 

service GLOOMY      APPREHENSIONS BARS     AND     BREAKERS PERILS     OF 

THE     SHIP DISASTERS      OF     A     BOAT's     CREW BURIAL     OF     A     SaNDWICH 

ISLANDER. 

It  was  on  the  28th  of  February  that  the  Tonquiii  set  sail 
from  the  Sandwich  islands.  For  two  days  the  wind  was 
contrary,  and  the  vessel  was  detained  in  their  neighborhood ; 
at  length  a  favorable  breeze  sprang  up,  and  in  a  little  while 
the  rich  groves,  green  hills,  and  snowy  peaks  of  those  happy 
islands  one  after  another  sank  from  sight,  or  melted  into  the 
blue  distance,  and  the  Tonquin  ploughed  her  course  towards 
the  sterner  regions  of  the  Pacific. 

The  misimderstandings  l^etween  the  captain  and  his  pas- 
sengers still  continued ;  or  rather,  increased  in  gravity.  By 
his  altercations  and  his  moody  humors,  he  had  cut  himself 
off  from  all  community  of  thought,  or  freedom  of  conversation 
with  them.  He  disdained  to  ask  any  questions  as  to  their 
proceedings,  and  could  only  guess  at  the  meaning  of  their 
movements,  and  in  so  doing  indulged  in  conjectures  and 
suspicions,  which  produced  the  most  whimsical  self-torment. 

Thus,  in  one  of  his  disputes  with  them,  relative  to  the 
goods  on  board,  some  of  the  packages  of  which  they  wished 
to  open,  to  take  out  articles  of  clothing  for  the  men  or  presents 
for  the  natives,  he  was  so  harsh  and  peremptory  that  they  lost 


MISERIES    OF    A    SUSPICIOUS    MAN. 


81 


S — MISB- 
NGEROUS 
SRILS  OF 
lANDWICH 


set  sail 
Liid  was 
orhood ; 
e  while 
happy 
into  the 
towards 

lis  pas- 
|ity.     By 

himself 
ersation 
to  their 
of  their 
ires  and 
rinent. 

to  the 
)'  wished 
presents 
they  lost 


I 


4 
I 


i 


all  patience,  and  hinted  that  they  were  the  strongest  party, 
and  nii<jht  reduce  liim  to  a  very  ridiculous  dilemma,  by  taking 
from  him  the  connnand. 

A  thought  now  flashed  across  the  captain's  mind  that  they 
really  had  a  design  to  depose  him,  and  that,  having  picked  up 
some  information  at  Owyhee,  possibly  of  war  between  the 
United  States  and  England,  they  meant  to  alter  the  destination 
of  the  voyage ;  perhaps  to  seize  upon  ship  and  cargo  for  their 
own  use. 

Once  having  conceived  this  suspicion,  every  thing  went 
to  foster  it.  They  had  distributed  fire-arms  among  some  of 
their  men,  a  common  precaution  among  the  fur  traders  when 
mingling  with  the  natives.  This,  however,  looked  like  prepa- 
ration. Then  several  of  the  partners  and  clerks  and  some 
of  the  men,  being  Scotsmen,  were  acquainted  with  the  Gaelic, 
and  held  long  conversations  together  in  that  language.  These 
conversations  were  considered  by  the  captain  of  a  •'  myste- 
rious and  unwarrantable  nature,"  and  related,  no  doubt,  to 
some  foul  conspiiacy  that  was  brewing  among  them.  He 
frankly  avows  such  suspicions,  in  his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  but 
intimates  that  he  stood  ready  to  resist  any  treasonous  out- 
break ;  and  seems  to  think  that  the  evidence  of  preparation 
on  his  part  had  an  efl^ect  in  overawing  the  conspirators. 

The  fact  is,  as  w-e  have  since  been  informed  by  one  of 
the  parties,  it  was  a  mischievous  pleasure  with  some  of  the 
partners  and  clerks,  who  were  yoimg  men,  to  play  upon  the 
stispicious  temper  and  splenetic  humors  of  the  captain.  To 
this  we  may  ascribe  many  of  their  whimsical  pranks  and 
absurd  propositions,  and,  above  all,  tluir  niysterious  colloquys 
in  Gaelic. 

In  this  sore  and  irritable  mood  did  the  captain  pursue  his 
course,  keeping  a  wary  eye  (m  every  movement,  and  bristling 


i  .: 


.'I 


82 


THE    MOUTH    OF    THE    COLUMBIA. 


If 


r  \i 


:l 


^k 


up  whenever  the  detested  sound  of  the  GaeUc  language 
grated  upon  his  ear.  Nothing  occurred,  however,  materially 
to  disturb  the  residue  of  the  voyage  excepting  a  violent  storm ; 
and,  on  the  twenty-second  of  March,  the  Tonquin  arrived  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Oregon,  or  Columbia  river. 

The  aspect  of  the  river  and  the  adjacent  coast  was  wild  ai\d 
dangerous.  The  mouth  of  the  Columbia  is  upwards  of  four 
miles  wide,  with  a  peninsula  and  promontory  on  one  side,  and 
a  long  low  spit  of  land  on  the  other ;  between  which  a  sand 
bar  and  chain  of  breakers  almost  block  up  the  entrance.  The 
interior  of  the  country  rises  into  successive  ranges  of  moun- 
tains, which,  at  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Tonquin,  were 
covered  with  snow. 

A  fresh  wind  from  the  north-west  sent  a  rouwh  tumbling  sea 
upon  the  coast,  which  broke  upon  the  bar  in  furious  surges, 
and  extended  a  sheet  of  foam  almost  across  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  Under  these  circumstances  the  captain  did  not  think 
it  prudent  to  approach  within  three  leagues,  until  the  bar 
should  be  sounded  and  the  channel  ascertained.  Mr.  Fox, 
the  chief  mate,  was  ordered  to  this  service  in  the  whale- 
boat,  accompanied  by  John  Martin,  an  old  seaman,  who  had 
formerly  visited  the  river,  and  by  three  Canadians.  Fox 
requested  to  have  regular  sailors  to  man  the  boat,  but  the 
captain  would  not  spare  them  from  the  service  of  the  ship, 
and  supposed  the  Canadians,  being  expert  boatmen  on  lakes 
and  rivers,  were  competent  to  the  service,  especially  when 
directed  and  aided  by  Fox  and  Martin.  Fox  seems  to  have 
lost  all  firmness  of  spirit  on  the  occasion,  and  to  have  regarded 
the  service  with  a  misgiving  heart.  He  came  to  the  partners 
for  sympathy,  knowing  their  differences  with  the  captain,  and 
the  tears  were  in  his  eyes  as  he  represented  his  case.  "  I 
am  sent  off,"  said  he,  "  without  seamen  to  man  my  boat,  in 


I 


'I 

i  I 


BARS    AND    CREAKERS. 


83 


inguage 

ilerially 

storm ; 

rived  at 

vild  and 
of  four 
ide,  and 
\i  a  sand 
e.  The 
(f  moun- 
lin,  were 

bling  sea 
5  surges, 
th  of  the 
lot  think 
the  bai 
^r.  Fox, 
3  whale- 
who  had 
IS.     Fox 
.  but  the 
the  ship, 
on  lakes 
ly  when 

to  have 
regarded 

partners 
)tain,  and 
ase.  "  I 
^  boat,  in 


';f 


■H 


boisterous  weather,  and  on  the  most  dangerous  part  of  the 
north-west  coast.  My  uncle  was  lost  a  few  years  ago  on  this 
same  bar,  and  I  am  now  going  to  lay  my  bones  along  side  of 
his."  The  partners  sympathized  in  his  apprehensions,  and 
remonstrated  with  the  captain.  The  latter,  however,  was  not 
to  be  moved.  He  had  been  displeased  with  Mr.  Fox  in  the 
earlier  part  of  the  voyage,  considering  him  indolent  and  inac- 
tive ;  and  probably  thought  his  present  repugnance  arose  from 
a  want  of  true  nautical  spirit.  The  interference  of  the  part- 
ners in  the  business  of  the  ship,  also,  was  not  calculated  to 
have  a  favorable  ctfect  on  a  stickler  for  authority  like  himself, 
especially  in  his  actual  state  of  feeling  towards  them. 

At  one  o'clock,  P.  M.,  therefore.  Fox  and  his  comrades  set 
off  in  the  whale-boat,  which  is  represented  as  small  in  size, 
and  crazy  in  condition.  All  eyes  were  strained  after  the  little 
bark  as  it  pulled  for  shore,  rising  and  sinking  with  the  huge 
rolling  waves,  until  it  entered,  a  mere  speck,  among  the  foam- 
ing breakers,  and  was  soon  lost  to  view.  Evening  set  in, 
night  succeeded  and  passed  away,  and  morning  returned,  but 
without  the  return  of  the  boat. 

As  the  wind  had  moderated,  the  ship  stood  near  to  the  land, 
so  as  to  command  a  view  of  the  river's  mouth.  Nothing  was 
to  be  seen  but  a  wild  chaos  of  tumbling  waves  breaking  upon 
the  bar,  and  apparently  forming  a  foaming  barrier  from  shore 
to  shore.  Towards  night  the  ship  again  stood  out  to  gain 
sea-room,  and  a  gloom  was  visible  in  every  countenance. 
The  captain  himself  shared  in  the  general  anxiety,  and  pro- 
bably repented  of  his  peremptory  orders.  Anotlier  wearv  and 
watchful  night  succeeded,  during  which  the  wind  subsided, 
and  the  weather  became  serene. 

On  the  following  day,  the  ship  having  drifted  near  the  land, 
anchored  in  fourteen  fathoms  water,  to  the  northward  of  the 


84 


PERILOUS    SERVICE. 


m 


long  peninsula  or  promontory  wliicli  forms  the  north  side  of 
the  entrance,  and  is  called  Cape  Disappointment.  The  pin- 
nace was  then  manned,  and  two  of  the  partners,  Mr.  David 
Stuart  and  Mr.  M'Kay,  set  olV  in  tlie  h()j)e  of  learning  some- 
thing of  the  fate  of  the  whale-boat.  The  surf,  however, 
broke  with  such  violence  along  the  shore  that  they  could  find 
no  landing  place.  Several  of  the  natives  appeared  on  the 
beach  and  made  signs  to  them  to  row  round  the  cape,  but  they 
thought  it  most  prudent  to  return  to  the  ship. 

The  wind  now  springing  up,  the  Tonquin  got  under  way, 
and  stood  in  to  seek  tlie  channel ;  but  was  again  deterred,  by 
the  frightful  aspect  of  the  breakers,  from  venturing  within  a 
league.  Here  she  hove  to ;  and  Mr.  Mumford,  the  second 
mate,  was  dispatched  with  four  hands,  in  the  pinnace,  to 
sound  across  the  channel  until  he  should  find  four  fathoms 
depth.  The  pinnace  entered  among  the  breakers,  but  was 
near  being  lost,  and  with  difficulty  got  back  to  the  ship.  The 
captain  insisted  that  Mr.  Mumford  had  steered  too  much  to 
the  southward.  He  now  turned  to  Mr.  Aiken,  an  able  mar- 
iner, destined  to  command  the  schooner  intended  for  the 
coasting  trade,  and  ordered  him,  together  with  John  Coles, 
sail-maker,  Stephen  Weekes,  armorer,  and  two  Sandwich 
islanders,  to  proceed  ahead  and  take  soundings,  while  the 
ship  should  follow  under  easy  sail.  In  this  way  they  pro- 
ceeded until  Aiken  had  ascertained  the  channel,  when  signal 
was  given  from  the  ship  for  him  to  return  on  board.  He  was 
♦hen  within  pistol  shot,  but  so  furious  was  the  current,  and 
tumultuous  the  breakers,  that  the  boat  became  unmanageable, 
and  was  hurried  away,  the  crew  crying  out  piteously  for 
assistance.  In  a  few  moments  she  could  not  be  seen  from  the 
ship's  deck.  Some  of  the  passengers  climbed  to  the  mizzen 
top,  and  behelu  her  still  struggling  to  reach  the  ship ;  but 


£! 


THE    SHIP    IN    DANGER. 


85 


side  of 
he  pin- 
'.  David 


r  some- 


owever, 

tuld  find 

on  the 

but  they 

ler  way, 
srred,  by 
within  a 

second 
nace,  to 

fathoms 
but  was 
p.  The 
much  to 
ble  mar- 

for  the 
n  Coles, 
iandwich 
^hile  the 
icy  pro- 
en  signal 

He  was 
rent,  and 
lageable, 
)usly  for 

from  the 
3  mizzen 

hip ;  but 


■1 


shortly  after  she  broached  broadside  to  the  waves,  and  her 
case  seemed  desperate.  The  attention  of  those  on  board  of 
the  ship  was  now  called  to  their  own  safety.  They  were  in 
shallow  water ;  the  vessel  struck  repeatedly,  the  waves  broke 
over  her,  and  there  was  danger  of  her  foundering.  At  length 
she  got  into  seven  fathoms  water,  and  tiic  wind  lulling,  and 
the  night  coming  on,  cast  anchor.  With  the  darkness  their 
anxieties  increased.  The  wind  whistled,  the  sea  roared,  the 
gloom  was  only  broken  by  the  ghastly  glare  of  the  foaming 
breakers,  the  minds  of  the  seamen  were  full  of  dreary  appre- 
hensions, and  some  of  them  fancied  they  heard  the  cries  of 
their  lost  comrades  mingling  with  the  uproar  of  the  elements. 
For  a  time,  too,  the  rapidly  ebbing  i.de  threatened  to  sweep 
them  from  their  precarious  anchorage.  At  length  the  reflux 
of  the  tide,  and  the  springing  up  of  the  wind,  enabled  tluin 
to  quit  their  dangerous  situation  and  take  shelter  in  a  small 
bay  within  Cape  Disappointment,  where  they  rodo  in  safety 
during  the  residue  of  a  stormy  night,  and  enjoyed  a  I)ri('f 
interval  of  refreshing  sleep. 

With  the  light  of  day  returned  their  cares  and  anxieties. 
They  looked  out  from  the  mast  head  over  a  wild  coast,  and 
wilder  sea,  but  could  discover  no  trace  of  the  two  boats  and 
their  crews  that  were  missing.  Several  of  the  natives  came 
on  board  with  peltries,  but  there  was  no  disposition  to  trade. 
They  were  interrogated  by  signs  after  the  lost  boats,  but  could 
not  understand  the  inquiries. 

Parties  now  went  on  shore  and  scoured  the  neighborhood. 
One  of  these  was  headed  by  the  captain.  They  had  not 
proceeded  far  when  they  beheld  a  person  at  a  distance  in 
civilized  garb.  As  he  drew  near  he  proved  to  be  Weekes.  the 
armorer.  There  was  a  burst  of  joy,  for  it  was  hoped  his 
comrades  were  near  at  hand.     Ilis  story,  however,  was  one 


86 


STORY    OF    WEEKES    THE    ARMORER. 


ii 


1  I   i 


'  -11.  'h 


of  disaster.  He  and  his  companions  had  found  it  impossible 
to  govern  their  boat,  having  no  rudder,  and  being  beset  by 
rapid  and  whirling  currents  and  boisterous  surges.  After  long 
struggling  they  had  let  her  go  at  the  mercy  of  the  waves, 
tossing  about,  sometimes  with  her  bow,  sometimes  with  her 
broadside  to  the  surges,  threatened  each  instant  with  destruc- 
tion, yet  repeatedly  escaping,  until  a  huge  sea  broke  over  and 
swamped  her.  Weekes  was  overwhelmed  by  the  boiling 
waves,  but  emerging  above  the  surface,  looked  round  for  his 
companions.  Aikin  rnd  Coles  were  not  to  be  seen;  near 
him  were  the  two  Sandwich  islanders,  stripping  themselves 
of  their  clothing  that  they  might  swim  more  freely.  He  did 
the  same,  and  the  boat  floating  near  to  him  he  seized  hold  of 
it.  The  two  islanders  joined  him,  and,  uniting  tlieir  forces, 
they  succeeded  in  turning  the  boat  upon  her  keel ;  then 
bearing  down  her  stern  and  rocking  her,  they  forced  out  so 
much  water  that  she  was  able  to  bear  the  weight  of  a  man 
without  sinking.  One  of  the  islanders  now  got  in,  and  in  a 
little  while  bailed  out  the  water  with  his  hands.  The  other 
swam  about  and  collected  the  oars,  and  they  all  three  got 
once  more  on  board. 

By  this  time  the  tide  had  swept  them  beyond  the  breakers, 
and  Weekes  called  on  his  companions  to  row  for  land.  They 
were  so  chilled  and  benumbed  by  the  cold,  however,  that  they 
lost  all  heart,  and  absolutely  refused.  Weekes  was  equally 
chilled,  but  had  superior  sagacity  and  self-command.  He 
coimtcracted  the  tendency  to  drowsiness  and  stupor  which 
cold  produces  by  keeping  himself  in  constant  exercise ;  and 
seeing  that  the  vessel  was  advancing,  and  that  every  thing 
depended  upon  himself,  he  set  to  work  to  scidl  the  boat  clear 
of  the  bar,  and  into  quiet  water. 

Towards  midnight  one  of  the  poor  islanders  expired :  his 


1 


•I 


SEARCH    FOR    A    LOST    COMRADE. 


87 


15 


■;1 


1-onipanioii  throw  himself  on  his  corpse  and  could  not  be  per- 
suaded to  leave  him.  The  dismal  night  wore  away  amidst 
those  horrors  :  as  the  day  dawned,  Weekes  found  himself 
near  the  land.  He  steered  directly  for  it,  and  at  length,  with 
the  aid  of  the  surf,  ran  his  boat  high  upon  a  sandy  beach. 

Finding  that  one  of  the  Sandwich  islanders  yet  gave  signs 
of  lil'o,  he  aided  him  to  leave  the  boat,  and  set  out  with  him 
towards  the  adjacent  woods.  The  poor  fellow,  however,  was 
too  feeble  to  follow  him,  and  Weekes  was  soon  obliged  to 
abandon  him  to  his  fate  and  provide  for  his  own  safety.  Fall- 
ing upon  a  beaten  path,  he  pursued  it,  and  after  a  few  hours 
came  to  a  part  of  the  coast  where,  to  his  surprise  and  joy,  he 
behold  the  ship  at  anchor,  and  was  met  by  the  captain  and  his 
party. 

After  Weekes  had  related  his  adventures,  three  parties 
were  dispatched  to  beat  up  the  coast  in  search  of  the  unfor- 
tunate islander.  They  returned  at  night  without  success, 
though  they  had  used  the  utmost  diligence.  On  the  following 
day  the  search  was  resumed,  and  the  poor  fellow  was  at 
length  discovered  lying  beneath  a  group  of  rocks,  his  legs 
swollen,  his  feet  torn  and  bloody  from  walking  through  bushes 
and  briars,  and  himself  half  dead  with  cold,  hunger,  and 
fatigue.  Weekes  and  this  islander  were  the  only  survivors 
of  the  crew  of  the  jolly-boat,  and  no  trace  was  ever  discovered 
of  Fox  and  his  party.  Thus  eight  men  were  lost  on  the  first 
approach  to  the  coas'  ;  a  commencement  that  cast  a  gloom 
over  the  spirits  of  the  whole  party,  and  was  regarded  by  some 
of  the  superstitious  as  an  omen  that  boded  no  good  to  the 
enterprise. 

Towards  night  the  Sandwich  islanders  went  on  shore,  to 
bury  the  body  of  their  unfortunate  countryman  who  had  per- 
ished in  the  boat.     On  arriving  at  the  place  where  it  had  been 


88 


FUNERAL    OF    A    SANDWICH    ISLANDER. 


V  J.     • 


lol't,  they  (lug  a  grave  in  the  sand,  in  which  ihey  (k'positeiJ 
the  corpse,  with  a  biscuit  under  one  of  the  arms,  some  hird 
mider  the  eliin,  and  a  small  (juantity  of  tobacco,  as  provisions 
lor  its  journey  in  the  land  ol'  spirits.  Having  covered  the 
body  with  sand  and  flints,  they  kneeled  along  the  grave  in 
a  double  row,  witli  their  laces  turned  to  the  east,  while  one 
■who  olliciated  as  a  priest  sprinkled  them  with  water  I'rom 
a  hat.  In  so  doing  he  recited  a  kind  of  prayer  or  invocation, 
to  which,  at  intervals,  the  others  made  responses.  Such  were 
the  simple  rites  performed  by  these  poor  savages  at  the  grave 
of  their  comrade  on  the  shores  of  a  strange  land ;  and  when 
these  were  done,  they  rose  and  returned  in  silence  to  the  ship, 
without  once  casting  a  look  beliind. 


k-4 


k  r 


ft    ;''^ 


II 


f 


MOUTH    OF    THE    COLUMBIA. 


89 


jsitod 
)  lard 
inions 
d  ihf 
,ve  in 
ie  on*' 

from 
■atioii. 

were 

grave 

when 

;  ship. 


II 


<     4 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

Mourn  OF  THE  Columbia — the   native  tuibes — their  fishino — their 

CANOES — BOLD    NAVIGAT0K8 — EQUESTIUAN     INDIANS     AND     I'MCATOKV    In- 

niANS,    DIKKERKNCE     IX    TIIKIR     I'llYSUAI-    OROANIZATION SKARCll    FOR    A 

TRADING     SITE EXCEniTION     OK    M'Uoi'OAL    AND     DaVID    StI'ART CoM- 

COMI.Y,    THE     0\E-EVED     CHIEFTAIN — INFLUENCE     OF    WEALTH    IN    SAVAGE 

LIFE SLAVERY    AMONG    THE     NATIVES AN    ARISTOCRACY    OF    FlATHEADS 

— HOSPITALITY     AMONG     THE     ChINOOKS CoMCOMLy's     DAUGHTER,     HER 

CONQUEST. 

Thk  Columbia,  or  Oregon,  for  the  distance  of  thirty  or  forty 
miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  sea,  is,  properly  speaking,  a 
mere  estuary,  indented  by  dfep  bays  so  as  to  vary  from  three 
to  seven  miles  in  width ;  and  is  rendered  extremely  intricate 
and  dangerous  by  shoals  reaching  nearly  from  shore  to  shore, 
on  which,  at  times,  the  winds  and  currents  produce  foaming 
and  tumultuous  breakers.  The  mouth  of  the  river  proper  is 
but  about  half  a  mile  wide,  formed  by  the  contracting  shores 
of  the  estuary.  The  entrance  from  the  sea,  as  we  have 
ilready  observed,  is  bounded  on  the  south  side  by  a  flat  sandy 
spit  of  land,  stretching  into  the  ocean.  This  is  coimnonly 
called  Point  Adams.  The  opposite,  or  northern  side,  is  Cape 
Disappointment;  a  kind  of  peninsula,  terminating  in  a  steep 
knoll  or  promontory  crowned  with  a  forest  of  pine  trees,  and 
connected  with  the  main  land  by  a  low  and  narrow  neck. 
Immediately  within  this  cape  is  a  wide,  open  bay,  terminating 

at  Chinook  point,  so  called  from  a  n.;igliboring  tribe  of  Indians. 

8* 


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■• 6"     - 

► 

23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


f/j 


1^ 


O^ 


90 


THE    NATIVE    TRIBES. 


This  was  called  Baker's  bay,  and   here   the   Tonquin  was 
anchored. 

The  natives  inhabiting  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  and  with 
whom  the  company  was  likely  to  have  the  most  frequent 
intercourse,  were  divided  at  this  time  into  four  tribes,  the 
Chinooks,  Clatsops,  Wahkiacums,  and  Cathlamahs.  They 
resembled  each  other  in  person,  dress,  language,  and  manner ; 
and  were  probably  from  the  same  stock,  but  broken  into  tribes, 
or  rather  hordes,  by  those  feuds  and  schisms  frequent  among 
Indians. 

These  people  generally  live  by  fishing.  It  is  true  they 
occasionally  hunt  the  elk  and  deer,  and  ensnare  the  waterfowl 
of  their  ponds  and  rivers,  but  these  are  casual  luxuries. 
Their  chief  subsistence  is  derived  from  the  salmon  and  other 
lish  which  a1)ound  in  the  Columbia  and  its  tributary  streams, 
aided  by  roots  and  herbs,  especially  the  wappatoo,  which  is 
found  on  the  islands  of  the  river. 

As  the  Indians  of  the  plains  who  depend  upon  the  chase 
are  bold  and  expert  riders,  and  pride  themselves  upon  their 
horses,  so  these  piscatory  tribes  of  the  coast  excel  in  the  man- 
agement of  canoes,  and  are  never  more  at  home  than  when 
riding  upon  the  waves.  Their  canoes  vary  in  form  and  size. 
Some  are  upwards  of  fifty  feet  long,  cut  out  of  a  single  tree, 
either  fir  or  white  cedar,  and  capable  of  carrying  thirty  per- 
sons. They  have  thwart  pieces  from  side  to  side  about  three 
inches  thick,  and  their  gunwales  flare  outwards,  so  as  to  cast 
ofT  the  surges  of  the  waves.  The  bow  and  stern  are  deco- 
rated with  grotesque  figures  of  men  and  animals,  sometimes 
five  feet  in  height. 

In  managing  their  canoes  they  kneel  two  and  two  along  the 
bottom,  sitting  on  their  heels,  and  wielding  paddles  from  four 
to  five  feet  long,  while  one  sets  on  tin-  stern  and  steers  with  a 


^1 


J 


HUNTING    INDIANS    AND    FISHING    INDIANS. 


91 


i  ! 
I 


1 
il 


1 


i 


paddle  of  the  same  kind.  The  women  are  equally  expert 
with  the  men  in  managing  the  canoe,  ana  generally  take  the 
helm. 

It  is  surprising  to  see  with  what  fearless  unconcern  these 
savages  venture  in  their  light  barks  upon  the  roughest  and 
most  tempestuous  seas.  They  seem  to  ride  upon  the  waves 
like  sealbwl.  Should  a  surge  throw  the  canoe  upon  its  side 
and  endanger  its  overturn,  those  to  windward  lean  over  the 
upper  gunwale,  thrust  their  paddles  deep  into  the  wave, 
apparently  catch  the  water  and  force  it  under  the  canoe,  and 
by  this  action,  not  merely  regain  an  equilibrium,  but  give  their 
bark  a  vigorous  impulse  forward. 

The  effect  of  different  modes  of  life  upon  the  human  frame 
and  human  character  is  strikingly  instanced  in  the  contrast 
between  the  hunting  Indians  of  the  prairies,  and  the  piscatory 
Jndians  of  the  seacoast.  The  former,  continually  on  horse- 
back scouring  the  plains,  gaining  their  food  by  hardy  exer- 
cise, and  subsisting  chiefly  on  flesh,  are  generally  tall,  sinewy, 
meagre,  but  well  formed,  and  of  bold  and  fierce  deportment ; 
the  latter,  lounging  about  the  river  banks,  or  squatting  and 
curved  up  in  their  canoes,  are  generally  low  in  stature,  ill- 
shaped,  with  crooked  legs,  thick  ankles,  and  broad  flat  feet. 
They  are  inferior  also  in  muscular  power  and  activity,  and  in 
game  qualities  and  appearance  to  their  hard-riding  brethren  of 
the  prairies. 

Having  premised  these  few  particulars  concerning  the 
neighboring  Indians,  we  will  return  to  the  immediate  concerns 
of  the  Tonquin  and  her  crew. 

Further  search  was  made  for  Mr.  Fox  and  his  party,  but 
with  no  better  success,  and  they  were  at  length  given  up  as 
lost.  In  the  meantime,  the  captain  and  some  of  tlie  partners 
explored  the  river  for  some  distance  in  a  large  boat,  to  select 


92 


POINT    GEORGE. 


a  suitable  place  for  tlie  trading  post.  Their  old  jealousies  and 
differences  continued ;  they  never  could  coincide  in  their 
choice,  and  the  captain  objected  altogether  to  any  site  so  high 
up  the  river.  They  all  returned,  therefore,  to  Baker's  bay  in 
no  very  good-humor.  The  partners  proposed  to  examine  the 
opposite  shore,  but  the  captain  was  impatient  of  any  further 
delay.  His  eagerness  to  "  get  on  "  had  increased  upon  him 
He  thought  all  these  excursions  a  sheer  loss  of  time,  and  was 
resolved  to  land  at  once,  build  a  shelter  for  the  reception  of 
that  part  of  his  cargo  destined  for  the  use  of  the  settlement, 
and,  having  cleared  his  ship  of  it  and  of  his  irksome  ship- 
mates, to  depart  upon  the  prosecution  of  his  coasting  voyage, 
according  to  orders. 

On  the  following  day,  therefore,  without  troubling  himself 
to  consult  the  partners,  he  landed  in  Baker's  bay,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  erect  a  shed  for  the  reception  of  the  rigging,  equip- 
ments, and  stores  of  the  schooner  that  was  to  be  built  for  the 
use  of  the  settlement. 

This  dogged  determination  on  the  part  of  the  sturdy  captain 
gave  high  offence  to  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  now  considered  him- 
self at  the  head  of  the  c(mcern,  as  Mr.  Astor's  representative 
and  proxy.  He  set  off  the  same  day,  (April  5th,)  accompa- 
nied by  Mr.  David  Stuart,  for  the  southern  shore,  intending  to 
be  back  by  the  seventh.  Not  having  the  captain  to  contend 
with,  they  soon  pitched  upon  a  spot  which  appeared  to  them 
favorable  for  the  intended  establishment.  It  was  on  a  point 
of  land  called  point  George,  having  a  very  good  harbor, 
where  vessels,  not  exceeding  two  hundred  tons  burthen,  might 
anchor  within  fifty  yards  of  the  shore. 

After  a  day  thus  profitably  spent,  they  re-crossed  the  river, 
but  landed  on  the  northern  shore,  several  miles  above  the 
anchoring  ground  of  the   Tonquin,  in   the  neighborhood  of 


m 


HI 


I 

u 


'^-M 

'i««l 


^'iw 


t^S 


I 

I. 


r^ 


COMCOMLY    AND    THE    CIIINOOKS. 


93 


Chinook,  and  visited  the  viUage  of  that  tribe.  Here  they 
were  received  with  great  hospitality  by  the  chief,  who  was 
named  Comcomly,  a  shrewd  old  savage,  with  but  one  eye, 
who  will  occasionally  figure  in  this  narrative.  Each  village 
forms  a  petty  sovereignty,  governed  by  its  own  chief,  who, 
however,  possesses  but  little  authority,  unless  he  be  a  man  of 
wealth  and  substance  ;  that  is  to  say,  possessed  of  canoes, 
slaves,  and  wives.  The  greater  number  of  these,  the  greater 
is  the  chief.  How  many  wives  this  one-eyed  potentate  main- 
tained we  are  not  told,  but  he  certainly  possessed  great  sway, 
not  merely  over  his  own  tribe,  but  over  the  neighborhood. 

Having  mentioned  slaves,  we  would  observe  that  slavery 
exists  among  several  of  the  tribes  beyond  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains. The  slaves  are  well  treated  while  in  good  health,  but 
occupied  in  all  kinds  of  drudgery.  Should  they  become 
useless,  however,  by  sickness  or  old  age,  they  are  totally 
neglected,  and  left  to  perish  ;  nor  is  any  respect  paid  to  their 
bodies  after  death. 

A  singular  custom  prevails,  not  merely  among  the  Chinooks, 
but  among  most  of  the  tribes  about  this  part  of  the  coast, 
which  is  the  flattening  of  the  forehead.  The  process  by 
which  this  deformity  is  effected  commences  immediately  after 
birth.  The  infant  is  laid  in  a  wooden  trough,  by  way  of 
cradle.  The  end  on  which  the  head  reposes  is  higher  than 
the  rest.  A  padding  is  placed  on  the  forehead  of  the  infant, 
with  a  piece  of  bark  above  it,  and  is  pressed  down  by  cords, 
which  pass  through  holes  on  each  side  of  the  trough.  As  the 
tightening  of  the  padding  and  the  pressing  of  the  head  to  the 
board  is  gradual,  the  process  is  said  not  to  be  attended  with 
much  pain.  The  appearance  of  the  infant,  however,  while  in 
this  state  of  compression,  is  whimsically  hideous,  and  "its 
little  black  eyes,"  we  are  told,  "  being  forced  out  by  the  tight- 


\M 


94 


AN    ARISTOCRACY    OF    FLATHEADS. 


iiess  of  the  bandages,  resemble  those  of  a  mouse  choked  in  a 
trap." 

About  a  year's  pressure  is  sufficient  to  produce  the  desired 
effect,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  child  emerges  from  its 
bandages  a  complete  flathead,  and  continues  so  through  life. 
It  must  be  noted,  however,  that  this  flattening  of  the  head  has 
something  in  it  of  aristocratical  significancy,  like  the  crippling 
of  the  feet  among  Chinese  ladies  of  quality.  At  any  rate,  it 
is  a  sign  of  freedom.  No  slave  is  permitted  to  bestow  this 
enviable  deformity  upon  his  child ;  all  the  slaves,  therefore, 
are  roundheads. 

With  this  worthy  tribe  of  Chinooks  the  two  partners  passed 
a  part  of  a  day  very  agreeably.  M'Dougal,  who  was  some- 
what vain  of  his  official  rank,  had  given  it  to  be  understood 
that  they  were  two  chiefs  of  a  great  trading  company,  about 
to  be  established  here,  and  the  quicksighted,  though  one-eyed 
chief,  who  was  somewhat  practiced  in  traffic  with  white  men, 
immediately  perceived  the  policy  of  cultivating  the  friendship 
of  two  such  important  visiters.  He  regaled  them,  therefore, 
to  the  best  of  his  ability,  with  abundance  of  salmon  and  wap- 
patoo.  The  next  morning,  March  7th,  they  prepared  to  return 
to  the  vessel,  according  to  promise.  They  had  eleven  miles 
of  open  bay  to  traverse ;  the  wind  was  fresh,  the  waves  ran 
high.  Comcomly  remonstrated  with  them  on  the  hazard  to 
which  they  would  be  exposed.  They  were  resolute,  however, 
and  launched  their  boat,  while  the  wary  chieftain  followed  at 
some  short  distance  in  his  canoe.  Scarce  had  they  rowed  a 
mile,  when  a  wave  broke  over  their  boat  and  upset  it.  They 
were  in  imminent  peril  of  drowning,  especially  Mr.  M'Dougal, 
who  could  not  swim.  Comcomly,  however,  came  bounding 
over  the  waves  in  his  light  canoe,  and  snatched  them  from  a 
watery  grave. 


-n 


COMCOMLY  S    DAUGHTER — HER    CONQUEST. 


95 


aked  in  a 

e  desired 
from  its 
DUgh  life, 
head  has 
crippling 
ny  rate,  it 
stow  this 
therefore, 

3rs  passed 
iras  some- 
inderstood 
any,  about 
one-eyed 
rhite  men, 
friendship 
therefore, 
and  wap- 
1  to  return 
ven  miles 
ivaves  ran 
hazard  to 
,  however, 
)llowed  at 
y  rowed  a 
it.     They 
M'Dougal, 
bounding 
em  from  a 


II 


\  1 


They  were  taken  on  shore  and  a  fire  made,  at  which  tlioy 
dried  their  clothes,  after  which  Comcomly  conducted  them 
back  to  his  village.  Here  every  thing  was  done  that  could  be 
devised  for  their  entertainment  during  three  days  that  they 
were  detained  by  bad  weather.  Comcomly  made  his  people 
perform  antics  before  them ;  and  his  wives  and  daughters 
endeavored,  by  all  the  soothing  and  endearing  arts  of  women, 
to  find  favor  in  their  eyes.  Some  even  painted  their  bodies 
with  red  clay,  and  anointed  themselves  with  fish  oil,  to  give 
additional  lustre  to  their  charms.  Mr.  M'Dougal  seems  to 
have  had  a  heart  susceptible  to  the  influence  of  the  gentler 
sex.  Whether  or  no  it  was  first  touched  on  this  occasion  we 
do  not  learn  ;  but  it  will  be  found,  in  the  course  of  this  work, 
that  one  of  the  daughters  of  the  hospitable  Comcomly  event- 
ually made  a  conquest  of  the  great  eri  of  the  American  Fur 
Company. 

When  the  weather  had  moderated  and  the  sea  become  tran- 
([uil,  the  one-eyed  chief  of  the  Chinooks  manned  his  state 
canoe,  and  conducted  his  guests  in  safety  to  the  ship,  Mhere 
they  were  welcomed  with  joy,  for  apprehensions  had  been  felt 
for  their  safety.  Comcomly  and  his  people  were  then  enter- 
tained on  board  of  the  Tonquin,  and  liberally  rewarded  for 
their  hospitality  and  services.  They  returned  home  highly 
satisfied,  promising  to  remain  faithful  friends  and  allies  of  the 
white  men. 


9G 


POINT    GEORGE. 


CHAPTER  IX, 


Point   George — FouxniNu   of   Astoria — Indian    visitf.rs — their    re- 
ception  THE    CAPTAIN     TADOO's    THE    SHIP DEPARTURE    OF    THE     ToN- 

QUIN COMMENTS    ON    THE    CONDUCT    OP    CaPTAIN    ThORN. 


From  the  report  made  by  the  two  exploring  partners,  it  was 
determined  that  point  George  should  be  the  site  of  the  tra- 
ding house.  These  gentlemen,  it  is  true,  were  not  perfectly 
satisfied  with  the  place,  and  were  desirous  of  continuing  their 
search ;  but  Captain  Thorn  was  impatient  to  land  his  cargo 
and  continue  his  voyage,  and  protested  against  any  more  of 
what  he  termed  "  sporting  excursions." 

Accordingly,  on  the  12th  of  April  the  launch  was  freighted 
with  all  things  necessary  for  the  purpose,  and  sixteen  persons 
departed  in  her  to  commence  the  establishment,  leaving  the 
Tonquin  to  follow  as  soon  as  the  harbor  could  be  sounded. 

Crossing  the  wide  mouth  of  the  river,  the  party  landed,  and 
encamped  at  the  bottom  of  a  small  bay  within  point  George. 
The  situation  chosen  for  the  fortified  post  was  on  an  elevation 
facing  to  the  north,  with  the  wide  estuary,  its  sand  bars,  and 
tumultuous  breakers  snread  out  before  it,  and  the  promontory 
of  cape  Disappointment,  fifteen  miles  distant,  closing  the 
prospect  to  the  left.  The  surrounding  country  was  in  all  the 
freshness  of  spring ;  the  trees  were  in  the  young  leaf,  the 
weather  was  superb,  and  every  thing  looked  delightful  to  men 
just  emancipated  from  a  long  confmement  on  shipboard.     The 


FOUNDING    OF    ASTORIA. 


97 


I 


-THEIR     BE- 
'    THE    TON- 


;rs,  it  was 
of  the  tra- 
t  perfectly 
nuing  their 
his  cargo 
y  more  of 

s  freighted 
en  persons 
eaving  the 
unded. 
anded,  and 
nt  George, 
n  elevation 
1  bars,  and 
jromontory 
losing  the 
s  in  all  the 
leaf,  the 
tful  to  men 
)ard.     The 


Tonquin  shortly  afterwards  made  her  way  through  the  intri- 
cate channel,  and  came  to  anchor  in  the  little  hay,  and  was 
saluted  from  the  encampment  with  three  vollies  of  musketry 
and  three  cheers.  She  returned  the  salute  with  three  cheers 
and  three  guns. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  cutting  down  trees,  clearing 
away  thickets,  and  marking  out  the  place  for  the  residence, 
storehouse,  and  powder  magazine,  which  were  to  be  built 
of  logs  and  covered  with  bark.  Others  landed  the  timbers 
intended  for  the  frame  of  the  coasting  vessel,  and  proceeded 
to  put  them  together ;  while  others  prepared  a  garden  spot, 
and  sowed  the  seeds  of  various  vegetables. 

The  next  thought  was  to  give  a  name  to  the  embryo 
metropolis  :  the  one  that  naturally  presented  itself  was  that 
of  the  projector  and  supporter  of  the  wholo  enterprise.  It 
was  accordingly  named  Astoria. 

The  neighboring  Indians  now  swarmed  about  the  place. 
Some  brought  a  (ew  land-otter  and  sea-otter  skins  to  barter, 
but  in  very  scanty  parcels ;  the  greater  number  came  prying 
about  to  gratify  their  curiosity,  for  they  are  said  to  be  imperti- 
nently inquisitive  ;  while  not  a  few  came  with  no  other  desigu 
than  to  pilfer ;  the  laws  of  meuvi  and  tuum  being  but  slightly 
respected  among  them.  Some  of  them  beset  the  ship  in  their 
canoes,  among  whom  was  the  Chinook  chief  Comcomly,  and 
his  liege  subjects.  These  were  well  received  by  Mr.  }.•  ■  •> 
gal,  who  was  delighted  with  an  opportunity  of  entering  u^jon 
his  functions  and  acquiring  importance  in  the  eyes  of  his 
future  neighbors.  The  confjision  thus  produced  on  board,  and 
the  derangement  of  the  cargo  caused  by  this  petty  trade, 
stirred  the  spleen  of  the  captain,  who  had  a  sovereign  con- 
tempt for  the  one-eyed  chieftain  and  all  his  crew.  He  com- 
plained  loudly  of  having  his    ship   lumbered  by  a  host  of 

9 


08 


SAILING    OF    THE    TONQIIN. 


I: 


"  Indian  ragamiiflins,"  who  liad  not  a  skin  to  dispose  ol'.  and 
at  length  put  his  positive  interdict  upon  all  tratlicking  on 
board.  Upon  this  Mr.  M'Dougal  was  fain  to  land,  and  estab- 
lish his  quarters  at  the  encampment,  where  he  could  exercise 
his  rights  and  enjoy  liis  dignities  without  control. 

The  feud,  however,  between  these  rival  powers  still  con- 
tinued, but  was  chiefly  carried  on  by  letter.  Day  after  day, 
and  week  after  week  elapsed,  yet  the  storehouses  requisite 
for  the  reception  of  the  cargo  were  not  completed,  and  the 
ship  was  detained  in  port ;  while  the  captain  was  teased  by 
frequent  requisitions  lor  various  articles  for  the  use  of  the 
establishment,  or  the  trade  with  the  natives.  An  angry  cor- 
respondence took  place,  in  which  he  complained  bitterly  of 
the  time  wasted  in  "  smoking  and  sporting  parties,"  as  he 
termed  the  reconnoitring  expeditions,  and  in  clearing  and 
preparing  meadow  ground  and  turnip  patches,  instead  of  dis- 
patching his  ship.  At  length  all  these  jarring  matters  were 
adjusted,  if  not  to  the  satisfaction,  at  least  to  the  acquiescence 
of  all  parties.  The  part  of  the  cargo  destined  for  the  use  of 
Astoria  was  landed,  and  the  ship  left  free  to  proceed  on  her 
voyage. 

As  the  Tonquin  was  to  coast  to  the  north,  to  trade  for  pel- 
tries at  the  difTerent  harbors,  and  to  touch  at  Astoria  on  her 
return  in  the  autumn,  it  was  unanimously  determined  that  Mr. 
M'Kay  should  go  in  her  as  supercargo,  taking  with  him  Mr. 
Lewis  as  ship's  clerk.  On  the  first  of  June  the  ship  got 
under  way,  and  dropped  down  to  Baker's  bay,  where  she  was 
detained  for  a  few  days  by  a  head  wind ;  but  early  in  the 
morning  of  the  fifth  stood  out  to  sea  with  a  fine  breeze  and 
swelling  canvass,  and  swept  off  gayly  on  her  fatal  voyage, 
from  which  she  was  never  to  return ! 

On  reviewing  the  conduct  of  Captain  Thorn,  and  examining 


Jim 


REVIEW    OF    THE    CONDUCT    OF    CAPTAIN    TIIORX. 


99 


c  01,  and 

•kin<f  oil 

rul  ostab- 

excrcise 


still  con- 
ifter  (lay, 
requisitr 
,  and  thr 
eased  by 
se  of  the 
ngry  cor- 
)itterly  of 
5,"  as  he 
iring   and 
id  of  dis- 
ters  were 
uiescence 
he  use  of 
id  on  her 

e  for  pel- 
a  on  her 

that  Mr. 

him  Mr. 

ship   got 

she  was 
ly  in  the 
eeze  and 
1  voyage, 

jxamining 


11 


^1 


his  peevish  and  somewhat  whimsical  correspondence,  the 
impression  left  upon  our  mind  is,  upon  tho  whole,  decidedly 
in  his  favor.  While  we  smile  at  the  simplicity  of  his  heart 
and  the  narrowness  of  his  views,  which  made  him  regard 
every  thing  out  of  tho  direct  path  of  his  daily  duty,  and  the 
rigid  exigencies  of  the  service,  as  trivial  and  impertinent, 
which  inspired  him  with  contempt  for  the  swelling  vanity  of 
some  of  his  coadjutors,  and  the  literary  exercises  and  curious 
researches  of  others,  W(^  cannot  but  applaml  that  strict  and 
tonscientious  devotion  to  the  interests  of  his  employer,  and 
to  what  he  considered  the  true  objects  of  the  enterprise  in 
which  he  was  engaged.  He  certaiidy  was  to  blame  occasion- 
ally for  the  asperity  of  his  manners,  and  tho  arbitrary  nature 
of  his  measures,  yet  much  that  is  exceptionabh;  in  this  part  of 
his  conduct  may  bo  traced  to  rigid  notions  of  duty,  acquired 
in  that  tyraimical  school,  a  ship  of  war,  and  to  the  construc- 
tion given  by  his  companions  to  the  orders  of  Mr.  Astor,  so 
little  in  conformity  with  his  own.  His  mind,  too,  appears  to 
have  become  almost  diseased  by  the  suspicions  he  had  formed 
as  to  the  loyalty  of  his  associates,  and  the  nature  of  their  ulti- 
mate designs ;  yet  on  this  point  there  were  circumstances  to, 
in  some  measure,  justify  him.  The  relations  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain  were  at  that  time  in  a  critical 
state ;  in  fact,  the  two  countries  were  on  the  eve  of  a  war. 
Several  of  the  partners  were  British  subjects,  and  might  be 
ready  to  desert  the  flag  under  which  they  acted,  should  a  war 
take  place.  Their  application  to  the  British  minister  at  New 
York  shows  the  dubious  feeling  with  which  they  had  embarked 
in  the  present  enterprise.  They  had  been  in  the  employ  of 
the  North-west  Company,  and  might  be  disposed  to  rally  again 
under  that  association,  should  events  threaten  the  prosperity 
of  this  embryo  establishment  of  Mr.  Astor.     Beside,  we  have 


1" 


I' 


100 


ins    OPINION    OF    M  DOUGAL. 


tho  Tact,  averred  to  us  by  one  of  the  partners,  that  some  of 
iheiu,  who  were  yoimif  and  hocdlesH,  took  a  mischievous  and 
unwarrantable  pleasure  in  playinjf  upon  tho  jealous  temper  of 
the  captain,  and  aflecling  mysterious  consultations  and  sinister 
movements. 

These  circumstances  are  cited  in  palliation  ol'  the  doubts 
and  surmises  of  Captain  Thorn,  which  might  otherwise  appear 
strange  and  imreasonable.  'J'hat  most  of  tho  partners  were 
perfectly  upright  and  faithful  in  the  discharge  of  the  trust 
reposed  in  them  we  arc  fully  satisfied ;  still  the  honest  captain 
was  not  invariably  wrong  in  his  suspicions ;  and  that  he 
formed  a  pretty  just  opinion  of  the  integrity  of  that  aspiring 
personage,  Mr.  M'Dougal,  will  be  substantially  proven  in  the 
sequel. 


ALVIIMS    FROM    THE    fNTERIOll. 


101 


some  of 
vous  and 
cniper  of 
(1  sinister 

le  doubts 
so  app(;ar 
ors  were 
the  trust 
3t  captain 
that  hv 
I  aspiring 
m  in  the 


J4 


CHAPTER   X. 

DlSQUIKTINO    RIIMOK9    FHOM    TlIK     INTKRIOR UKCONNOITKI  N<»    PAKTV PKK- 

PAKATIOXS  FOR  A  TRAKINCJ  POST — AN  INKX  PKCTKl)  ARRIVAL — A  HPY  IX 
THE    CAMI' — EXI'KrHTlO.N     INTO    TUK    INTKRIOR — 8II0KKS    OK    TlIK    ("oI.UM- 

DIA Mill  NT      CoKKlS  —  TnDIAN       SKPLlA'lIRK THK      I.AM>      OF      SPIRITS  — 

C0I.UMIIIAN  VAI.I.KY \'aN(-OL'VF.R's   point FALLS   AM)    KAPIDS A  ORKAT 

fisiiim;  M\Kr — tiik  vh.lauf.  of  Wish-ram — 1)iffkkkn(.f,  iiktwf.em 
FisiiiNo  Indians  and  iiuntinu  Indians — kffkcts  of  iiaimts  of  trade 
ON  Tin;  Indian  niAUACTEK — post  kstvolished  at    iiie  Oakinaoan. 

Whilk  the  Astorians  were  busily  occupied  in  coinpletinfj  their 
factory  and  fort,  a  report  was  brouj^ht  to  them  by  an  Indian 
from  the  upper  part  of  tlie  river,  that  a  party  of  thirty  white 
men  liad  appeared  on  the  banks  of  tlie  Columbia,  and  were 
actually  building  houses  at  the  second  rapids.  Tliis  informa- 
tion caused  much  disquiet.  We  have  already  mentioned  that 
the  North-west  Company  had  established  posts  to  the  west  of 
the  Rocky  mountains,  in  a  district  called  by  them  New  Cale- 
donia, which  extended  from  lat.  52°  to  55°  north,  being  within 
the  British  territories.  It  was  now  apprehended  that  (hey 
were  advancing  within  the  American  limits,  and  were  endeav- 
oring to  seize  upon  the  upper  part  of  the  river  and  forestall 
the  American  Fur  Company  in  the  surrounding  trade ;  in  which 
case  bloody  feuds  might  be  anticipated,  such  as  had  prevailed 
between  the  rival  fur  companies  in  former  days. 

A  reconnoitring  party  was  sent  up  the  river  to  ascertain  the 

truth  of  the  report.     They  ascended  to  the  foot  of  the  first 

9* 


!| 


102 


ALARMS  FROM  THE  INTERIOR 


rapid,  about  two  hundred  miles,  but  could  hear  nothing  of  any 
white  men  being  in  the  neighborhood. 

Not  long  after  their  return,  however,  further  accounts  were 
received,  by  two  wandering  Indians,  which  established  the 
fact,  that  the  North-west  Company  had  actually  erected  a 
trading  house  on  the  Spokan  river,  which  falls  into  the  north 
branch  of  the  Columbia. 

What  rendered  this  intelligence  the  more  disquieting,  was 
the  inability  of  the  Astorians,  in  their  present  reduced  state 
as  to  numbers,  and  the  exigencies  of  their  new  establishment, 
to  furnish  detachments  to  penetrate  the  country  in  different 
directions,  and  fix  the  posts  necessary  to  secure  the  interior 
trade. 

It  was  resolved,  however,  at  any  rate,  to  advance  a  counter 
check  to  this  post  on  the  Spokan,  and  one  of  the  partners,  Mr. 
David  Stuart,  prepared  to  set  out  for  the  purpose  with  eight 
men  and  a  small  assortment  of  goods.  He  was  to  be  guided 
by  the  two  Indians,  who  knew  the  country,  and  promised  to 
take  him  to  a  place  not  far  from  the  Spokan  river,  and  in  a 
neighborhood  abounding  with  beaver.  Here  he  was  to  estab- 
lish himself  and  to  remain  for  a  time,  provided  he  found  the 
situation  advantageous  and  the  natives  friendly. 

On  the  15th  of  July,  when  Mr.  Stuart  was  nearly  ready  to 
embark,  a  canoe  made  its  appearance,  standing  for  the  harbor, 
and  manned  by  nine  white  men.  Much  speculation  took  place 
who  these  strangers  could  be,  for  it  was  too  soon  to  expect 
their  own  people,  under  Mr.  Hunt,  who  were  to  cross  the  con- 
tinent. As  the  canoe  drew  near,  the  British  standard  was 
distinguished :  on  coming  to  land,  one  of  the  crew  stepped 
on  shove,  and  announced  himself  as  Mr.  David  Thompson, 
astronomer,  and  partner  of  the  North-west  Company.  Accord- 
ing to  his  account,  he  had  set  out  in  the  preceding  year  with 


A    SPY   IN   THE    CAMP. 


103 


i 


m 


a  tolerably  strong  party,  and  a  supply  of  Indian  goods,  to  cross 
the  Rocky  mountains.  A  part  of  his  people,  however,  had 
deserted  him  on  the  eastern  side,  and  returned  with  the  goods 
to  the  nearest  north-west  post.  He  had  persisted  in  crossing 
the  mountains  with  eight  men,  who  remained  true  to  him. 
They  had  traversed  the  higher  regions,  and  ventured  near  the 
source  of  the  Columbia,  Avhere,  in  the  spring,  they  had  con- 
structed a  cedar  canoe,  the  same  in  which  they  had  reached 
Astoria. 

This,  in  fact,  was  the  party  dispatched  by  the  North-west 
Company  to  anticipate  Mr.  Astor  in  his  intention  of  effecting 
a  settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river.  It  appears, 
from  information  subsequently  derived  from  other  sources,  that 
Mr.  Thompson  had  pushed  on  his  course  with  great  haste, 
calling  at  all  the  Indian  villages  in  his  march,  presenting  them 
with  British  flags,  and  even  planting  them  at  the  forks  of  the 
rivers,  proclaiming  formally  that  he  took  possession  of  the 
country  in  the  name  of  the  king  of  Great  Britain  for  the 
North-west  Company.  As  his  original  plan  was  defeated  by 
the  desertion  of  his  people,  it  is  probable  that  he  descended 
the  river  simply  to  reconnoitre,  and  ascertain  whether  an 
American  settlement  had  been  commenced. 

Mr.  Thompson  was,  no  doubt,  the  first  white  man  who 
descended  the  northern  branch  of  the  Columbia  from  so  near 
its  source.  Lewis  and  Clarke  struck  the  main  body  of  the 
river  at  the  forks,  about  four  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth. 
They  entered  it  from  Lewis  river,  its  southern  branch,  and 
thence  descended. 

Though  Mr.  Thompson  could  be  considered  as  little  better 
than  a  spy  in  the  camp,  he  was  received  with  great  cordiality 
by  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  had  a  lurking  feeling  of  companionship 
and  good  will  for  all  of  the  North-west  Company.     He  invited 


'M 


104 


EXPEDITION    INTO    THE    INTERIOR. 


him  to  head  quarters,  whore  he  and  his  people  were  hospita- 
bly entertained.  Nay,  further,  being  somewhat  in  extremity, 
he  was  furnished  by  Mr.  M'Dougal  with  goods  and  provisions 
for  his  journey  back,  across  the  mountains,  much  against  the 
wishes  of  Mr.  David  Stuart,  who  did  not  think  the  object  of 
his  visit  entitled  him  to  any  favor. 

On  the  23d  of  July,  Mr.  Stuart  set  out  upon  his  expedition 
to  the  interior.  His  party  consisted  of  four  of  the  clerks, 
Messrs.  Fillet,  Ross,  M'Lennon,  and  Montigny,  two  Cana- 
dian voyageurs,  and  two  natives  of  the  Sandwich  islands. 
They  had  three  canoes  well  laden  with  provisions,  and  with 
goods  and  necessaries  for  a  trading  establishment. 

Mr.  Thompson  and  his  party  set  out  in  company  with  them, 
it  being  his  intention  to  proceed  direct  to  Montreal.  The 
partners  at  Astoria  forwarded  by  him  a  short  letter  to  Mr. 
Astor,  informing  him  of  their  safe  arrival  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  and  that  they  had  not  yet  heard  of  Mr.  Hunt.  The 
little  squadron  of  canoes  set  sail  with  a  favorable  breeze,  and 
scon  passed  Tongue  point,  a  long,  high,  and  rocky  promon- 
tory, covered  with  trees,  and  stretching  far  into  the  river. 
Opposite  to  this,  on  the  northern  shore,  is  a  deep  bay,  wiiere 
the  Columbia  anchored  at  the  time  of  the  discovery,  and 
which  is  still  called  Gray's  bay,  from  the  name  of  her  com- 
mander. 

From  hence,  the  general  course  of  the  river,  for  about 
seventy  miles,  was  nearly  south-east ;  varying  in  breadth 
according  to  its  bays  and  indentations,  and  navigable  for  ves- 
sels of  three  hundred  tons.  The  shores  were  in  some  places 
high  and  rocky,  with  low  marshy  islands  at  their  feet,  subject 
to  inundation,  and  covered  with  willows,  poplars,  and  other 
trees  that  love  an  alluvial  soil.  Sometimes  the  mountains 
receded,  and  gave  place  to  beautiful  plains  and  noble  forests. 


MOUNT    COFFIN — INDIAN    SEPULCHRES. 


105 


While  the  river  margin  was  richly  fringed  with  trees  of 
deciduous  foliage,  the  rough  uplands  were  crowned  by  majestic 
pines,  and  firs  of  gigantic  size,  some  towering  to  the  height 
of  between  two  and  three  hundred  feet,  with  proportionate 
circumference.  Out  of  these  the  Indians  wrought  their  great 
canoes  and  pirogues. 

At  one  part  of  the  river,  they  passed,  on  the  northern  side, 
an  isolated  rock,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  rising 
from  a  low  marshy  soil,  and  totally  disconnected  with  the  adja- 
cent mountains.  This  was  held  in  great  reverence  by  the 
neighboring  Indians,  being  one  of  their  principal  places  of 
sepulture.  The  same  provident  care  for  the  deceased  that 
prevails  among  the  hunting  tribes  of  the  prairies  is  observable 
among  the  piscatory  tribes  of  the  rivers  and  seacoast.  Among 
the  former,  the  favorite  horse  of  the  hunter  is  buried  with  him 
in  the  same  funereal  mound,  and  his  bow  and  arrows  are  laid 
by  his  side,  that  he  may  be  perfectly  equipped  for  the  "  happy 
hunting  grounds"  of  the  land  of  spirits.  Among  the  latter, 
the  Indian  is  wrapped  in  his  mantle  of  skins,  laid  in  his  canoe, 
with  his  paddle,  his  fishing  spear,  and  other  implements  beside 
him,  and  placed  aloft  on  some  rock  or  eminence  overlooking 
the  river,  or  bay,  or  lake,  that  he  has  frequented.  He  is  thus 
fitted  out  to  launch  away  upon  those  placid  streams  and  sunny 
lakes  stocked  with  all  kinds  of  fish  and  waterfowl,  wliich  are 
prepared  in  the  next  world  for  those  who  have  acquitted  them- 
selves as  good  sons,  good  fathers,  good  husbands,  and,  above 
all,  good  fishermen,  during  their  mortal  sojourn. 

The  isolated  rock  in  question  presented  a  spectacle  of  the 
kind,  numerous  dead  bodies  being  deposited  in  canoes  on  its 
summit ;  while  on  poles  around  were  trophies,  or  rather,  fune- 
real oflTerings  of  trinkets,  garments,  baskets  of  roots,  and  other 
articles  for  the  use  of  the  deceased.     A  reverential  feeling 


106 


THE    COLUMBIAN   VALLEY. 


protects  these  sacred  spots  from  robbery  or  insult.  The 
friends  of  the  deceased,  especially  the  women,  repair  here  at 
sunrise  and  sunset  for  some  time  after  his  death,  singing  his 
funeral  dirge,  and  uttering  loud  wailings  and  lamentations. 

From  the  number  of  dead  bodies  in  canoes  observed  upon 
this  rock  by  the  first  explorers  of  the  river,  it  received  the 
name  of  mount  Coffin,  which  it  continues  to  bear. 

Beyond  this  rock  they  passed  the  mouth  of  a  river  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  which  appeared  to  take  its  rise  in 
a  distant  mountain,  covered  with  snow.  The  Indian  name  of 
this  river  was  the  Cowleskee.  Some  miles  further  on  they 
came  to  the  great  Columbian  valley,  so  called  by  Lewis  and 
Clarke.  It  is  sixty  miles  in  width,  and  extends  far  to  the 
south-southeast,  between  parallel  ridges  of  mountains,  which 
bound  it  on  the  east  and  west.  Through  the  centre  of  this 
valley  flowed  a  large  and  beautiful  stream,  called  the  Wal- 
lamot,*  which  came  wandering,  for  several  hundred  miles, 
through  a  yet  unexplored  wilderness.  The  sheltered  situation 
of  this  immense  valley  had  an  obvious  effect  upon  the  climate. 
It  was  a  region  of  great  beauty  and  luxuriance,  with  lakes  and 
pools,  and  green  meadows  shaded  by  noble  groves.  Various 
tribes  were  said  to  reside  in  this  valley,  and  along  the  banks 
of  the  Wallamot, 

About  eight  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamot  the 
little  squadron  arrived  at  Vancouver's  point,  so  called  in  honor 
of  that  celebrated  voyager  by  his  lieutenant  (Broughton)  when 
he  explored  the  river.  This  point  is  said  to  present  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  scenes  on  the  Columbia ;  a  lovely  meadow, 
with  a  silver  sheet  of  limpid  water  in  the  centre,  enlivened  by 
wild  fowl,  a  range  of  hills  crowned  by  forests,  while  the  pros- 


ifr^ 


5 


*  Pronounced  Wallamot,  the  accent  being  upon  the  second  syllable. 


SCENERY    OF    THE    COLUMBIA, 


107 


t.     The 
here  at 
ging  his 
ons. 

ed  upon 
ived  the 

r  on  the 

Ls  rise  in 

name  of 

on  they 

3wis  and 

ir  to  the 

IS,  which 

e  of  this 

he  Wal- 

id  miles, 

situation 

climate. 

akes  and 

Various 

le  banks 

imot  the 
in  honor 
n)  when 
one  of 
meadow, 
ened  by- 
he  pros- 
liable. 


pect  is  closed  by  mount  Hood,  a  magnificent  mountain  rising 
into  a  lofty  peak,  and  covered  with  snow ;  the  uhimate  land- 
mark of  the  first  explorers  of  the  river. 

Point  Vancouver  is  about  one  hundred  miles  from  Astoria. 
Here  the  reflux  of  the  tide  ceases  to  be  perceptible.  To  this 
place  vessels  of  two  and  three  hundred  tons  burthen  may 
ascend.  The  party  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Stuart  had 
been  three  or  four  days  in  reaching  it,  though  we  have  for- 
borne to  notice  their  daily  progress  and  nightly  encampments. 

From  point  Vancouver  the  river  turned  towards  the  north- 
east, and  became  more  contracted  and  rapid,  with  occasional 
islands  and  frequent  sand  banks.  These  islands  are  furnished 
with  a  number  of  ponds,  and  at  certain  seasons  abound  with 
swan,  geese,  brandts,  cranes,  gulls,  plover,  and  other  wild  fowl. 
The  shores,  too,  are  low,  and  closely  wooded,  with  such  an 
undergrowth  of  vines  and  rushes  as  to  be  almost  impassable. 

About  thirty  miles  above  point  Vancouver  the  mountains 
again  approach  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  which  is  bordered 
by  stupendous  precipices,  covered  with  the  fir  and  the  white 
cedar,  and  enlivened  occasionally  by  beautifid  cascades  leap- 
ing from  a  great  height,  and  sending  up  wreaths  of  vapor. 
One  of  these  precipices,  or  cliffs,  is  curiously  worn  by  time 
and  weather  so  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  a  ruiuf^d  fortress, 
with  towers  and  battlements,  beetling  high  above  the  river ; 
while  two  small  cascades,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height, 
pitch  down  from  the  fissures  of  the  rocks. 

The  turbulence  and  rapidity  of  the  current  continually  aug- 
menting as  they  advanced,  gave  the  voyagers  intimation  that 
they  were  approaching  the  great  obstructions  of  the  river,  and 
at  length  they  arrived  at  Strawberry  island,  so  called  by 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  first  rapid.  As 
this  part  of  the  Columbia  will  be  repeatedly  mentioned  in  tlie 


m 


i 


n 


108 


FALLS    AND    RAPIDS. 


course  of  this  work,  being  the  scene  of  some  of  its  incidents, 
we  shall  give  a  general  description  of  it  in  this  place. 

The  falls  or  rapids  of  the  Columbia  are  situated  about  one 
hundred  and  eighty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The 
first  is  a  perpendicidar  cascade  of  twenty  feet,  after  which 
there  is  a  swift  descent  for  a  mile,  between  islands  of  hard 
black  rock,  to  another  pitch  of  eight  feet  divided  by  two  rocks. 
About  two  and  a  half  miles  below  this  the  river  expands  into 
a  wide  basin,  seemingly  dammed  up  by  a  perpendicular  ridge 
of  black  rock.  A  current,  however,  sets  diagonally  to  the  lelt 
of  this  rocky  barrier,  where  there  is  a  chasm  forty-five  yards 
in  width.  Through  this  the  whole  body  of  the  river  roars 
along,  swelling  and  whirling  and  boiling  for  some  distance  in 
the  wildest  confusion.  Through  this  tremendous  channel  the 
intrepid  explorers  of  the  river,  Lewis  and  Clarke,  passed 
safely  in  their  boats  ;  the  danger  being,  not  from  the  rocks,  but 
from  the  great  surges  and  whirlpools. 

At  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  foot  of  this 
narroAV  channel  is  a  rapid,  formed  by  two  rocky  islands ;  and 
two  miles  beyond  is  a  second  great  fall,  over  a  ledge  of  rocks 
twenty  feet  high,  extending  nearly  from  shore  to  shore.  The 
river  is  again  compressed  into  a  channel  from  fifty  to  a  hun- 
dred feet  wide,  worn  through  a  rough  bed  of  hard  black  rock, 
along  which  it  boils  and  roars  with  great  fury  for  the  distance 
of  three  miles.     This  is  called  "  The  Long  Narrows." 

Here  is  the  great  fishing  place  of  the  Columbia.  In  the 
spring  of  the  year,  when  the  water  is  high,  the  salmon  ascend 
the  river  in  incredible  numbers.  As  they  pass  through  this 
narrow  strait,  the  Indians,  standing  on  the  rocks,  or  on  the 
end  of  wooden  stages  projecting  from  the  banks,  scoop  them 
up  with  small  nets  distended  on  hoops  and  attached  to  long 
handles,  and  cast  them  on  the  shore. 


i 


AN    INDIAN    FISHING    MART. 


109 


ncidents, 

ibout  one 
er.     The 
er  which 
I  of  hard 
ivo  rocks, 
ands  into 
Lilar  ridge 
Lo  the  left 
ive  yards 
ver  roars 
istance  in 
lannel  the 
e,  passed 
rocks,  but 

ot  of  this 

nds ;  and 

of  rocks 

Dre.  The 
to  a  hun- 
ack  rock, 

3  distance 

In  the 
Dn  ascend 
ough  this 
or  on  the 
;oop  them 
d  to  long 


4 


? 


5 


They  are  then  cured  and  packed  in  a  peculiar  manner. 
After  having  been  opened  and  disembowelled,  they  are  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  on  scaffolds  erected  on  the  river  banks. 
When  sufficiently  dry,  they  are  pounded  fine  between  two 
stones,  pressed  into  the  smallest  compass,  and  packed  in 
baskets  or  bales  of  grass  matting,  about  two  feet  long  and  one 
in  diameter,  lined  with  the  cured  skin  of  a  salmon.  The  top 
is  likewise  covered  with  fish  skins,  secured  by  cords  passing 
through  holes  in  the  edge  of  the  basket.  Packages  are  then 
made,  each  containing  twelve  of  these  bales,  seven  at  bottom, 
five  at  top,  pressed  close  to  each  other,  with  the  corded  side 
upward,  wrapped  in  mats  and  corded.  These  are  placed  in 
dry  situations,  ar  d  again  covered  with  matting.  Each  of  these 
packages  contains  ^'rom  ninety  to  a  hundred  pounds  of  dried 
fish,  which  in  this  state  will  keep  sound  for  several  years.* 

We  have  given  this  process  at  some  length,  a:s  furnished  by 
the  first  explorers,  because  it  marks  a  practised  ingenuity  in 
preparing  articles  of  traffic  for  a  market,  seldom  seen  among 
our  aboriginals.  For  like  reasons  we  would  make  especial 
mention  of  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  at  the  head  of  the  Long 
Narrows,  as  being  a  solitary  instance  of  an  aboriginal  trading 
mart,  or  emporium.  Here  the  salmon  caught  in  the  neighbor- 
ing rapids  were  "warehoused,"  to  await  customers.  Hither 
the  tribes  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  repaired  with  the 
fish  of  the  seacoast,  the  roots,  berries,  and  especially  the 
wappatoo,  gathered  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  river,  together 
with  goods  and  trinkets  obtained  from  the  ships  which  casu- 
ally visited  the  coast.  Hither  also  the  tribes  from  the  Rocky 
mountains  brought  down  horses,  bear  grass,  quamash,  and  other 
commodities  of  the  interior.     The  merchant  fishermen  at  the 


*  Lewis  and  Clarke,  vol.  ii.  p.  32. 
10 


^ 


9. 


ti 


no 


WISH-RAM    AND    ITS    INHABITANTS. 


falls  acted  as  middlemen  or  factors,  and  passed  the  objects  of 
traffic,  as  it  were,  cross-handed ;  trading  away  part  of  tlie 
wares  received  from  the  mountain  tribes  to  those  of  the  river 
and  the  plains,  and  vice  versa :  their  packages  of  pounded  sal- 
mon entered  largely  into  the  system  of  barter,  and  being 
carried  off  in  opposite  directions,  found  their  way  to  the  sav- 
age hunting  camps  far  in  the  interior,  and  to  the  casual  white 
traders  who  touched  upon  the  coast. 

We  have  already  noticed  certain  contrarieties  of  character 
between  the  Indian  tribes,  produced  by  their  diet  and  mode  of 
life  ;  and  nowhere  are  they  more  apparent  than  about  the  falls 
of  the  Columbia.  The  Indians  of  this  great  fishing  mart  are 
represented  by  the  earliest  explorers  as  sleeker  and  fatter,  but 
less  hardy  and  active,  than  the  tribes  of  the  mountains  and  the 
prairies,  who  live  by  hunting,  or  of  the  upper  parts  of  the 
river,  where  fish  is  scanty,  and  the  inhabitants  must  eke  out 
their  subsistence  by  digging  roots  or  chasing  the  deer.  Indeed, 
whenever  an  Indian  of  the  upper  coimtry  is  too  lazy  to  hunt, 
yet  is  fond  of  good  living,  he  repairs  to  the  falls,  to  live  in 
abundance  without  labor. 

"  By  such  worthless  dogs  as  these,"  says  an  honest  trader 
in  his  journal,  which  now  lies  before  us,  "  by  such  worthless 
dogs  as  these  are  these  noted  fishing  places  peopled,  which, 
like  our  great  cities,  may  with  propriety  be  called  the  head 
quarters  of  vitiated  principles." 

The  habits  of  trade  and  the  avidity  of  gain  have  their  cor- 
rupting effects  even  in  the  wilderness,  as  may  be  instanced  in 
the  members  of  this  aboriginal  emporium ;  for  the  same  jour- 
nalist denounces  them  as  "  saucy,  impudent  rascals,  who  will 
steal  when  they  can,  and  pillage  whenever  a  weak  party  falls 
in  their  power." 

That  he  does  not  belie  them  will  be  evidenced  hereafter, 


>jects  of 
;  of  the 
he  river 
ided  sal- 
(1  being 
the  sav- 
al  white 

haracter 

mode  of 

the  falls 

mart  are 

itter,  but 

1  and  the 

s  of  the 

eke  out 

Indeed, 

to  hunt, 

o  live  in 

St  trader 
vrorthless 
I,  which, 
;he  head 

heir  cor- 
anced  in 
me  jour- 
who  will 
arty  falls 

lereafter, 


MOUTH    OF    THE    OAKINAGAN. 


HI 


E 


when  we  have  occasion  again  to  touch  at  Wish-ram  and  navi- 
gate the  rapids.  In  the  present  instance  the  travellers  effected 
the  laborious  ascent  of  this  part  of  the  river,  with  all  its 
\  arious  portages,  without  molestation,  and  once  more  launched 
away  in  smooth  water  above  the  high  falls. 

The  two  parties  continued  together,  without  material  imped- 
iment, for  three  or  four  hundred  miles  further  up  the  Columbia; 
Mr.  Thompson  appearing  to  take  great  interest  in  the  success 
of  Mr.  Stuart,  and  pointing  out  places  favorable,  as  he  said, 
to  the  establishment  of  his  contemplated  trading  post. 

Mr.  Stuart,  who  distrusted  his  sincerity,  at  length  pretended 
to  adopt  his  advice,  and,  taking  leave  of  him,  remained  as  if 
to  establish  himself,  while  the  other  proceeded  on  his  course 
towards  the  mountains.  No  sooner,  however,  had  he  fairly 
departed,  than  Mr.  Stuart  again  pushed  forward,  under  gui- 
dance of  the  two  Indians,  nor  did  he  stop  until  he  had  arrived 
within  about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  of  the  Spokan  river, 
which  he  considered  near  enough  to  keep  the  rival  establish- 
ment in  check. 

The  place  which  he  pitched  upon  for  his  trading  post  was  a 
point  of  land  about  three  miles  in  length  and  two  in  breadth, 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Oakinagan  with  the  Columbia. 
The  former  is  a  river  which  has  its  source  in  a  considerable 
lake  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  west  of  the  point  of  junc- 
tion. The  two  rivers,  about  the  place  of  their  confluence,  are 
bordered  by  immense  prairies  covered  with  herbage,  but  desti- 
tute of  trees.  The  point  itself  was  ornamented  with  wild 
flowers  of  every  hue,  in  which  innumerable  hummingbirds 
were  "  banqueting  nearly  the  livelong  day." 

The  situation  of  this  point  appeared  to  be  well  adapted  for 
a  trading  post.  The  climate  was  salubrious,  the  soil  fertile, 
the  rivers  Avell  stocked  with  fish,  the  natives  peaceable  and 


112 


A   NEW    TRADING    POST. 


•&M 


\H 


friendly.  Thoro  were  easy  communications  with  the  interior 
by  the  upper  waters  of  the  Cohuubia  and  the  lateral  stream 
of  the  Oakinagan,  while  the  downward  current  of  the  Colum- 
bia furnished  a  highway  to  Astoria. 

Availing  himself,  therefore,  of  the  driftwood  which  had  col- 
lected in  quantities  in  the  neighboring  bends  of  the  river,  Mr. 
Stuart  and  his  men  set  to  work  to  erect  a  house,  which  in  a 
little  while  was  sufficiently  completed  for  their  residence  ;  and 
thus  was  established  the  first  interior  post  of  the  company. 
We  will  now  return  to  notice  the  progress  of  affairs  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia. 


v. 


ALARiM    AT    ASTORIA. 


113 


interior 
I  stream 
I  Coluin- 


had  col- 
iver,  Mr. 
lich  in  a 
ice  ;  and 
ompany. 
s  at  the 


CHAPTER   XI. 

Alarm  at  Astoria — rumor  of  Indian  hostilities — preparations  fob 
defence tragical  fate  of  the  tonquln. 

The  sailing  of  the  Tonquin,  and  the  departure  of  Mr.  David 
Stuart  and  his  detachment,  had  produced  a  striking  eflect  on 
affairs  at  Astoria.  The  natives  who  had  swarmed  about  the 
place  began  immediately  to  drop  off,  until  at  length  not  an 
Indian  was  to  be  seen.  This,  at  first,  was  attributed  to  the 
want  of  peltries  with  which  to  trade  ;  but  in  a  little  while  the 
mystery  was  explained  in  a  more  alarming  manner.  A  con- 
spiracy was  said  to  be  on  foot  among  the  neighboring  tribes  to 
make  a  combined  attack  upon  the  white  men,  now  that  they 
were  so  reduced  in  number.  For  this  purpose  there  had  been 
a  gathering  of  warriors  in  a  neighboring  bay,  under  pretext  of 
fishing  for  sturgeon ;  and  fleets  of  canoes  were  expected  to 
join  them  from  the  north  and  south.  Even  Comcomly,  the 
one-eyed  chief,  notwithstanding  his  professed  friendship  for 
Mr.  M'Dougal,  was  strongly  suspected  of  being  concerned  in 
this  general  combination. 

Alarmed  at  rumors  of  this  impending  danger,  the  Astorians 
suspended  their  regidar  labor,  and  set  to  work,  with  all  haste, 
to  throw  up  temporary  works  for  refuge  and  defence.  In  the 
course  of  a  few  days  they  surrounded  their  dwelling-house 
and  magazines  with  a  picket  fence  ninety  feet  square,  flanked 

by  two  bastions,  on  which  were  mounted  four  four-pounders. 

10* 


!{ 


114 


ALAUMINO    UirMORS, 


Every  (lay  tlicy  exercised  themselves  in  the  use  of  their 
weapons,  so  as  to  qualily  themselves  lor  military  duty,  and  at 
nijrht  they  ensconced  themselves  in  their  fortress  and  posted 
sentinels,  to  f^uard  against  surprise.  In  this  way  they  hoped, 
even  in  case  of  attack,  to  ho  able  to  hold  out  until  the  arrival 
of  the  party  to  he  conducted  by  Mr.  Hunt  across  the  Uocky 
mountains,  or  until  the  return  of  the  'I'oncpiin.  The  latter 
•h'pendance,  however,  was  doomed  soon  to  be  destroyed. 
Marly  in  August,  a  wandering  band  of  savages  from  the  strait 
of  Juan  de  Fuca,  made  their  appearance  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  where  they  came  to  fish  for  sturgeon.  They 
brought  disastrous  accounts  of  the  Tontiuin,  which  were  at 
first  treated  as  mere  fables,  but  which  were  too  sadly  con- 
firmed by  a  difierent  tribe  that  arrived  a  few  days  subsequently. 
We  shall  relate  the  circumstances  of  this  melancholy  affair  as 
correctly  as  the  casual  discrepancies  in  the  statements  that 
have  reached  us  will  permit. 

Wc  have  already  stated  that  the  Tonquin  set  sail  from  the 
mouth  of  the  river  on  the  fifth  of  June.  The  whole  number 
of  persons  on  board  amounted  to  twenty-three.  In  one  of  the 
outer  bays  they  picked  up,  from  a  fishing  canoe,  an  Indian 
named  Lamazee,  who  had  already  made  two  voyages  along 
the  coast,  and  knew  something  of  the  languages  of  the  various 
tribes.     He  agreed  to  accompany  them  as  interpreter. 

Steering  to  the  north.  Captain  Thorn  arrived  in  a  few  days 
at  Vancouver's  island,  and  anchored  in  the  harbor  of  Neweetee, 
very  much  against  the  advice  of  his  Indian  interpreter,  who 
warned  him  against  the  perfidious  character  of  the  natives  of 
this  part  of  the  coast.  Niunbers  of  canoes  soon  came  off, 
bringing  sea-otter  skins  to  sell.  It  was  too  late  in  the  day  to 
commence  a  traffic,  but  Mr.  M'Kay,  accompanied  by  a  few  of 
the  men,  went  on  shore  to  a  large  village  to  visit  Wicananish, 


^ 

fi 


1  i 


11 


I  : 


A    SHREWD    INDIAN    TIlADEIl. 


116 


the  chief  of  thn  surrounding  territory,  six  of  the  n.itivcs 
rpniaining  on  board  as  Iiom  "ps.  Ho  was  received  with 
great  professions  of  friendship,  eu/»riained  hospitably,  and 
a  couch  (jf  sea-otter  skins  was  prepared  an  bitu  in  the  dwell- 
inj?  of  the  chieftain,  wlierc  )»•>  was  pjetailed  upon  to  pass  the 
night. 

In  the  niorninjr,  before  Mr.  M'Kay  b;id  returned  to  the  ^hip, 
great  numbers  of  the  natives  came  ofl'  in  their  canoes  to  trade, 
headed  by  two  sons  of  VVieananish.  As  they  broiijuli'  abini- 
dance  of  sea-otter  skins,  and  there  was  every  appearance  ol'  a 
brisk  trade,  Captain  'I'horn  did  not  wait  for  the  return  of  Mr. 
M'Kay,  but  spread  out  his  wares  upon  the  deck,  making  a 
tempting  display  of  blankets,  cloths,  knives,  beads,  and  fish- 
hooks, expecting  a  prompt  and  profitable  sale.  The  Indians, 
however,  were  not  so  eager  and  simple  as  he  had  supposed, 
having  learned  the  art  of  bargaining  and  the  value  of  merchan- 
dise from  the  casual  traders  along  the  coast.  They  were 
guided,  too,  by  a  shrewd  old  chief  named  Nookamis,  who  had 
grown  gray  in  traffic  with  New  England  skippers,  and  prided 
himself  upon  his  acuteness.  His  opinion  seemed  to  regulate 
the  market.  When  Captain  Thorn  made  what  ho  considered  a 
liberal  oiler  for  an  otter  skin,  the  wily  old  Indian  treated  it 
with  scorn,  and  asked  more  than  double.  His  comrades  all 
took  their  cue  from  him,  and  not  an  otter  skin  was  to  be  had 
at  a  reasonable  rate. 

The  old  fellow,  however,  overshot  his  mark,  and  mistook 
the  character  of  the  man  he  was  treating  with.  Thorn  was  a 
plain,  straight-forward  sailor,  who  never  had  two  minds  nor 
two  prices  in  his  dealings,  was  deficient  in  patience  and  pli- 
ancy, and  totally  wanting  in  the  chicanery  of  trafiic.  He  had 
a  vast  deal  of  stern,  but  honest  pride  in  his  nature,  and,  more- 
over, held   the  whole   savage  race   in   sovereign   contempt. 


r^' 


116 


A   DEADLY    INSULT. 


H 


w 


\  i 


Abandoning  all  further  attempts,  therefore,  to  bargain  with  his 
shuffling  customers,  he  thrust  his  hands  into  his  pockets,  and 
paced  up  and  down  the  deck  in  sullen  silence.  The  cunning 
old  Indian  followed  him  to  and  fro,  holding  out  a  sea-otter  skin 
to  him  at  every  turn,  and  pestering  him  to  trade.  Finding 
other  means  unavailing,  he  suddenly  changed  his  tone,  and 
began  to  jeer  and  banter  him  upon  the  mean  prices  he  offered. 
This  was  too  much  for  the  patience  of  the  captain,  who  v/as 
never  remarkable  for  relishing  a  joke,  especially  when  at  his 
own  expense.  Turning  suddenly  upon  his  persecutor,  he 
snatched  the  proflered  otter  skin  from  his  hands,  rubbed  it  in 
iiis  face,  and  dismissed  him  over  the  side  of  the  ship  with  no 
very  complimentary  application  to  accelerate  his  exit.  He 
then  kicked  the  peltries  to  the  right  and  left  about  the  deck, 
and  broke  up  the  market  in  the  most  ignominious  manner. 
Old  Nookamis  made  for  S'^oro  in  a  furious  passion,  in  which 
he  was  joined  by  Shewish,  one  of  the  sons  of  Wicananish, 
who  went  ofi"  breathing  vengeance,  and  the  ship  was  soon 
abandoned  by  the  natives. 

When  Mr.  M'Kay  returned  on  board,  the  interpreter  related 
what  had  passed,  and  begged  him  to  prevail  upon  the  captain 
to  make  sail,  as,  from  his  knowledge  of  the  temper  and  pride 
of  the  people  of  the  place,  he  was  sure  they  Avould  resent  the 
indignity  offered  to  one  of  their  chiefs.  Mr.  M'Kay,  who 
himself  possessed  some  experience  of  Indian  character,  went 
to  the  captain,  who  was  still  pacing  the  deck  in  moody  humor, 
represented  the  danger  to  which  his  hasty  act  had  exposed 
the  vessel,  and  urged  him  to  weigh  anchor.  The  captain 
made  light  of  his  councils,  and  pointed  to  his  cannon  and  fire- 
arms as  a  sufficient  safeguard  against  naked  savages.  Further 
remonstrances  only  provoked  taunting  replies  and  sharp  alter- 
cations.    The  day  passed  away  without  any  signs  of  hostility, 


U 


with  hia 
vets,  and 

cunning 
>tter  skin 

Finding 
one,  and 
'i  offered, 
who  v/as 
en  at  his 
3Utor,  he 
jbed  it  in 
3  with  no 
!xit.  He 
the  deck, 

manner, 
in  which 
cananish, 
,vas  soon 

ir  related 
e  captain 
md  pride 
csent  the 
ay,  who 
ter,  went 
y  humor, 

exposed 
captain 

and  fire- 

Further 
arp  aher- 

hostilitv, 


DANGEROUS    VISITERS. 


117 


and  at  night  the  captain  retired  as  usual  to  his  cabin,  taking 
no  more  than  the  usual  precautions. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  daybreak,  while  the  captain 
and  Mr.  M'Kay  were  yet  asleep,  a  canoe  came  alongside  in 
which  were  twenty  Indians,  commanded  by  young  Shewish. 
They  were  unarmed,  their  aspect  and  demeanor  friendly,  and 
they  held  up  otter  skins,  and  made  signs  indicative  of  a  wish 
to  trade.  The  caution  enjoined  by  Mr.  Astor,  in  respect  to 
the  admission  of  Indians  on  board  of  the  ship,  had  been 
neglected  for  some  time  past ;  and  the  officer  of  the  watch, 
perceiving  those  in  the  canoe  to  be  without  weapons,  and 
having  received  no  orders  to  the  contrary,  readily  permitted 
them  to  mount  the  deck.  Another  canoe  soon  succeeded,  the 
crew  of  which  was  likewise  admitted.  In  a  little  while  other 
canoes  came  off,  and  Indians  were  soon  clambering  into  the 
vessel  on  all  sides. 

The  officer  of  the  watch  now  felt  alarmed,  and  called  to 
Captain  Thorn  and  Mr.  M'Kay.  By  the  time  they  came  on 
deck,  it  was  thronged  with  Indians.  The  interpreter  noticed 
to  Mr.  M'Kay  that  many  of  the  natives  wore  short  mantles  of 
skins,  and  intimated  a  suspicion  that  they  were  secretly  armed. 
Mr.  M'Kay  urged  the  captain  to  clear  the  ship  and  get  under 
way.  He  again  made  light  of  the  advice  ;  but  the  augmented 
swarm  of  canoes  about  the  ship,  and  the  numbers  still  putting 
off  from  shore,  at  length  awakened  his  distrust,  and  he  ordered 
some  of  the  crew  to  weigh  anchor,  while  some  were  sent  aloft 
to  make  sail. 

The  Indians  now  offered  to  trade  with  the  captain  on  his 
own  terms,  prompted,  apparently,  by  the  approaching  depart- 
ure of  the  ship.  Accordingly,  a  hurried  trade  was  commenced. 
The  main  articles  sought  by  the  savages  in  barter,  were 
knives ;  as  fast  as  some  were  supplied  they  moved  off,  and 


vm 

w*i 

\ 

■'< 

h 

%i 

1 

I- 

;' 

i                ; 
■  f. 
.1 

■ 

*j 


■l1 


I 


■I:  ? 


118 


AN   OUTBREAK. 


Others  succeeded.     By  degrees  they  were   thus   distributed 
about  the  deck,  and  all  with  weapons. 

The  anchor  was  now  nearly  up,  the  sails  were  loose,  and 
the  captain,  in  a  loud  and  peremptory  tone,  ordered  the  ship 
to  be  cleared.  In  an  instant  a  signal  yell  was  given :  it  was 
echoed  on  every  side,  knives  and  war-clubs  were  brandished 
in  every  direction,  and  the  savages  rushed  upon  their  marked 
victims. 

The  first  that  fell  was  Mr,  Lewis,  the  ship's  clerk.  He 
was  leaning,  with  folded  arms,  over  a  bale  of  blankets,  engaged 
in  bargaining,  when  he  received  a  deadly  stab  in  the  back,  and 
fell  down  the  companionway. 

Mr,  M'Kay,  who  was  seated  on  the  taffrail,  sprang  on  his 
feet,  but  was  instantly  knocked  down  with  a  war-club  and 
flung  backwards  into  the  sea,  where  he  was  dispatched  by  the 
women  in  the  canoes. 

In  the  meantime.  Captain  Thorn  made  desperate  fight 
against  fearful  odds.  He  was  a  powerful  as  well  as  resolute 
man,  but  he  had  come  upon  deck  without  weapons,  Shewish, 
the  young  chief,  singled  him  out  as  his  peculiar  prey,  and 
rushed  upon  him  at  the  first  outbreak.  The  captain  had  barely- 
time  to  draw  a  claspknife,  with  one  blow  of  which  he  laid 
the  young  savage  dead  at  his  feet.  Several  of  the  stoutest 
followers  of  Shewish  now  set  upon  him.  He  defended  him- 
self vigorously,  dealing  crippling  blows  to  right  and  left,  and 
strewing  the  quarterdeck  with  the  slain  and  wounded.  His 
object  was,  to  fight  his  way  to  the  cabin,  where  there  were 
fire-arms ;  but  he  was  hemmed  in  with  foes,  covered  with 
wounds,  and  faint  with  loss  of  blood.  For  an  instant  he 
leaned  upon  the  tiller  wheel,  when  a  blow  from  behind,  Avith 
a  war-club,  felled  him  to  the  deck,  where  he  was  dispatched 
with  knives  and  thrown  overboard. 


•!i 


ributed 

36,  and 
le  ship 
it  was 
idished 
marked 

k.  He 
sngaged 
ack,  and 

f  on  his 
;lub  and 
d  by  the 

ite  fight 
resokite 
Ihewish, 
rey,  and 
,d  barely 
he  laid 
stoutest 
ed  him- 
eft,  and 
d.     His 
re  were 
■ed  with 
itant   he 
nd,  with 
ipatched 


A   CHANCE    MEDLEY    AFFRAY. 


119 


I 


While  this  was  transacting  upon  the  quarterdeck,  a  chance 
medley  fight  was  going  on  throughout  the  ship.  The  crew 
fought  desperately  with  knives,  handspikes,  and  whatever 
weapon  they  could  seize  upon  in  the  moment  of  surprise. 
They  were  soon,  however,  overpowered  by  numbers,  and  mer- 
cilessly butchered. 

As  to  the  seven  who  had  been  sent  aloft  to  make  sail,  they 
contemplated  with  horror  the  carnage  that  was  going  on  below. 
Being  destitute  of  weapons,  they  let  themselves  down  by  the 
running  rigging,  in  hopes  of  getting  between  decks.  One  fell 
in  the  attempt,  and  was  instantly  dispatched  ;  another  received 
a  death  blow  in  the  back  as  he  was  descending ;  a  third,  Ste- 
phen Weekes,  the  armorer,  was  mortally  wounded  as  he  was 
getting  down  the  hatchway. 

The  remaining  four  made  good  their  retreat  into  the  cabin, 
where  they  found  Mr.  Lewis,  still  alive,  though  mortally  wound- 
ed. Barricading  the  cabin  door,  they  broke  holes  through  the 
companionway,  and,  with  the  muskets  and  ammunition  which 
were  at  hand,  opened  a  brisk  fire  that  soon  cleared  the  deck. 

Thus  far  the  Indian  interpreter,  from  whom  these  particulars 
are  derived,  had  been  an  eyewitness  of  the  deadly  conflict. 
He  had  taken  no  part  in  it,  and  had  been  spared  by  the  natives 
as  being  of  their  race.  In  the  confusion  of  the  moment  he 
took  refuge  with  the  rest,  in  the  canoes.  The  survivors  of  the 
crew  now  sallied  forth,  and  discharged  some  of  the  deck  guns, 
which  did  great  execution  among  the  canoes,  and  drove  all  the 
savages  to  shore. 

For  the  remainder  of  the  day  no  one  ventured  to  put  otT  to 
the  ship,  deterred  by  the  effects  of  the  fire-arms.  The  night 
passed  away  without  any  further  attempt  on  the  part  of  the 
natives.  When  the  day  dawned,  the  Tonquin  still  lay  at 
anchor  in  the  bay,  her  sails  all  loose  and  flapping  in  the  wind, 


120 


AN    EXPLOSION. 


and  no  one  apparently  on  board  of  her.  After  a  time,  some 
of  the  canoes  ventured  forth  to  reconnoitre,  taking  with  them 
the  interpreter.  They  paddled  about  her,  keeping  cautiously 
at  a  distance,  but  growing  more  and  more  emboldened  a^ 
seeing  her  quiet  and  lifeless.  One  man  at  length  made  his 
appearance  on  the  deck,  and  was  recognised  by  the  interpreter 
as  Mr.  Lewis.  He  made  friendly  signs,  and  invited  them  on 
board.  It  was  long  before  they  ventured  to  comply.  Those 
who  mounted  the  deck  met  with  no  opposition ;  no  one  was  to 
be  seen  on  board ;  for  Mr.  Lewis,  after  inviting  them,  had 
disappeared.  Other  canoes  now  pressed  forward  to  board 
the  prize  ;  the  decks  were  soon  crowded,  and  the  sides  covered 
with  clambering  savages,  all  intent  on  plunder.  In  the  midst 
of  their  eagerness  and  exultation,  the  ship  blew  up  with  a 
tremendous  explosion.  Arms,  legs,  and  mutilated  bodies  were 
blown  into  the  air,  and  dreadful  havoc  was  made  in  the  sur- 
rounding canoes.  The  interpreter  was  in  the  main  chains  at 
the  time  of  the  explosion,  and  was  thrown  unhurt  into  the 
water,  where  he  succeeded  in  getting  into  one  of  the  canoes. 
According  to  his  statement,  the  bay  presented  an  awful  spec- 
tacle after  the  catastrophe.  The  ship  had  disappeared,  but 
the  bay  was  covered  with  fragments  of  the  wreck,  with  shat- 
tered canoes,  and  Indians  swimming  for  their  lives,  or  strug- 
gling in  the  agonies  of  death ;  while  those  who  had  escaped 
the  danger  remained  aghast  and  stupified,  or  made  with  frantic 
panic  for  the  shore.  Upwards  of  a  hundred  savages  were 
destroyed  by  the  explosion,  many  more  were  shockingly  muti- 
lated, and  for  days  afterwards  the  limbs  and  bodies  of  the  slain 
were  thrown  upon  the  beach. 

The  inhabitants  of  Neweetee  were  overwhelmed  with  con- 
sternation at  this  astounding  calamity,  which  had  burst  upon 
them  in  the  very  moment  of  triumph.     The  warriors  sat  mute 


THE    UNFORTUNATE    FUGITIVES. 


121 


le,  some 
ith  them 
lutiously 
.ened   a^ 
nade  his 
terpretcr 
them  on 
Those 
le  was  to 
lem,  had 
to  board 
s  covered 
the  midst 
p  with  a 
dies  were 
the  sur- 
chains  at 
imo  the 
e  canoes, 
i^ful  spec- 
ared,  but 
irith  shat- 
or  Strug- 
escaped 
th  frantic 
Tcs  were 
gly  muti- 
the  slain 

with  con- 
urst  upon 
sat  mute 


1 


and  mournful,  while  the  women  filled  the  air  Avith  loud  lamen- 
tations. Their  weeping  and  wailing,  however,  was  suddenly 
changed  into  yells  of  fury  at  the  sight  of  four  unfortunate 
white  men,  brought  captive  into  the  village.  They  had  been 
driven  on  shore  in  one  of  the  ship's  boats,  and  taken  at  some 
distance  along  the  coast. 

The  interpreter  was  permitted  to  converse  with  them.  They 
proved  to  be  the  four  brave  fellows  who  had  made  such  des- 
perate defence  from  the  cabin.  The  interpreter  gathered  from 
them  some  of  the  particulars  already  related.  They  told  him 
further,  that,  after  they  had  beaten  olf  the  enemy,  and  cleared 
the  ship,  Lewis  advised  that  they  should  slip  the  cable  and 
endeavor  to  get  to  sea.  They  declined  to  take  his  advice, 
alleging  that  the  wind  set  too  strongly  into  the  bay,  and  would 
drive  them  on  shore.  They  resolved,  as  soon  as  it  was  dark, 
to  put  off  quietly  in  the  ship's  boat,  which  they  would  be  able 
to  do  unperceived,  and  to  coast  along  back  to  Astoria.  They 
put  their  resolution  into  effect ;  but  Lewis  refused  to  accom- 
pany them,  being  disabled  by  his  wound,  hopeless  of  escape, 
and  determined  on  a  terrible  revenge.  On  the  voyage  out,  he 
had  repeatedly  expressed  a  presentiment  that  he  should  die  by 
his  own  hands  ;  thinking  it  highly  probable  that  he  should  be 
engaged  in  some  contest  with  the  natives,  and  being  resolved, 
in  case  of  extremity,  to  commit  suicide,  rather  than  be  made  a 
prisoner.  He  now  declared  his  intention  to  remain  on  board 
of  the  ship  until  daylight,  to  decoy  as  many  of  the  savages  on 
board  as  possible,  then  to  set  fire  to  the  powder  magazine,  and 
terminate  his  life  by  a  signal  act  of  vengeance.  How  well  he 
succeeded  has  been  shown.  His  companions  bade  him  a 
)nelancholy  adieu,  and  set  off  on  their  precarious  expedition. 
They  strove  with  might  and  main  to  get  out  of  the  bay,  but 

found  it  impossible  to  weather  a  point  of  land,  and  Avere  at 

11 


122 


ERRORS  OF  CAPTAIN  THORN. 


■■;  u 


■t   » 


length  compelled  to  take  shelter  in  a  small  cove,  where  they 
hoped  to  remain  concealed  until  the  wind  should  be  more 
favorable.  Exhausted  by  fatigue  and  watching,  they  fell  into 
a  sound  sleep,  and  in  that  state  were  surprised  by  the  savages. 
Better  had  it  been  for  those  unfortunate  men  had  they  remained 
with  Lewis,  and  shared  his  heroic  death :  as  it  was,  they  per- 
ished in  a  more  painful  and  protracted  manner,  being  sacrificed 
by  the  natives  to  the  manes  of  their  friends  with  all  the  linger- 
ing tortures  of  savage  cruelty.  Some  time  after  their  death, 
the  interpreter,  who  had  remained  a  kind  of  prisoner  at 
large,  effected  his  escape,  and  brought  the  tragical  tidings  to 
Astoria. 

Such  is  the  melancholy  story  of  the  Tonquin,  and  such  was 
the  fate  of  her  brave,  but  headstrong  commander,  and  her 
adventurous  crew.  It  is  a  catastrophe  that  shows  the  import- 
ance, in  all  enterprises  of  moment,  to  keep  in  mind  the  general 
instructions  of  the  sagacious  heads  which  devise  them,  Mr. 
Astor  was  well  aware  of  the  perils  to  which  ships  were 
exposed  on  this  coast  from  quarrels  with  the  natives,  and  from 
perfidious  attempts  of  the  latter  to  surprise  and  capture  them 
in  unguarded  moments.  He  had  repeatedly  enjoined  it  upon 
Captain  Thorn,  in  conversation,  and  at  parting,  in  his  letter  of 
instructions,  to  be  courteous  and  kind  in  his  dealings  with  the 
savages,  but  by  no  means  to  confide  in  their  apparent  friend- 
ship, nor  to  admit  more  than  a  few  on  board  of  his  ship  at  a 
time. 

Had  the  deportment  of  Captain  Thorn  been  properly  regu- 
lated, the  insult  so  wounding  to  savage  pride  would  never 
have  been  given.  Had  he  enforced  the  rule  to  admit  but  a 
few  at  a  time,  the  savages  would  not  have  been  able  to  get 
the  mastery.  He  was  too  irritable,  however,  to  practise  the 
necessary  self-command,  and,  having  been  nurtured  in  a  proud 


s 


I 


ii    !l 


CHARACTERISTIC    REPLY    OF    MR.  ASTOR. 


123 


re  they 
e  more 
fell  into 
savages. 
3mained 
ley  per- 
icrificed 
3  linger- 
r  death, 
ioner  at 
dings  to 

uch  was 
and  her 

import- 
!  general 
m.  Mr. 
ps  were 
and  from 
lire  them 

it  upon 
letter  of 
with  the 
t  friend- 
ship  at  a 

ly  regu- 
Id  never 
nit  but  a 

e  to  get 
ctise  the 
a  proud 


contempt  of  danger,  thought  it  beneath  him  to  manifest  any 
fear  of  a  crew  of  unarmed  savages. 

With  all  his  faults  and  foibles,  we  cannot  but  speak  of  him 
with  esteem,  and  deplore  his  untimely  fate  ;  for  we  remember 
him  well  in  early  life,  as  a  companion  in  pleasant  scenes  and 
joyous  hours.  When  on  shore,  among  his  friends,  he  was  a 
frank,  manly,  sound-hearted  sailor.  On  board  ship  he  evidently 
assumed  the  hardness  of  deportment  and  sternness  of  demeanor 
which  many  deem  essential  to  naval  service.  Throughout  the 
whole  of  the  expedition,  however,  he  showed  himself  loyal, 
single-minded,  straight-forward,  and  fearless ;  and  if  the  fate 
of  his  vessel  may  be  charged  to  his  harshness  and  imprudence, 
we  should  recollect  that  he  paid  for  his  error  with  his  life. 

The  loss  of  the  Tonquin  was  a  grievous  blow  to  the  infant 
establishment  of  Astoria,  and  one  that  threatened  to  bring  after 
it  a  train  of  disasters.  The  intelligence  of  it  did  not  reach 
Mr.  Astor  until  many  months  afterwards.  He  felt  it  in  all  its 
force,  and  was  aware  that  it  must  cripple,  if  not  entirely 
defeat,  the  great  scheme  of  his  ambition.  In  his  letters,  writ- 
ten at  the  time,  he  speaks  of  it  as  "  a  calamity,  the  length  of 
which  he  could  not  foresee."  He  indulged,  however,  in  no 
weak  and  vain  lamentation,  but  sought  to  devise  a  prompt  and 
efficient  remedy.  The  very  same  evening  he  appeared  at  the 
theatre  with  his  usual  serenity  of  countenance.  A  friend,  who 
knew  the  disastrous  intelligence  he  had  received,  expressed 
his  astonishment  that  he  could  have  calmness  of  spirit  suffi- 
cient for  such  a  scene  of  light  amusement.  "  What  would 
you  have  me  do  ?"  was  his  characteristic  reply ;  "  would  you 
have  me  stay  at  home  and  weep  for  what  I  cannot  help  ?" 


124 


GLOOM    AT   ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XII 


Gloom   at  Astoria — an   ingenious   stratagem — the  smallpox   chikf 
— launching  of  the  Dolly — an  arrival — a  Canadian  trapper — a 

FREEMAN     OP     THE     FOREST — AN     IrOQUOIS      HUNTER WINTER     ON    THE 

Columbia — festivities  of  new-year. 


■ilir 


The  tidings  of  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin,  and  the  massacre  of 
her  crew,  struck  dismay  into  the  hearts  of  the  Astorians. 
They  found  themselves  a  mere  handful  of  men,  on  a  savage 
coast,  surrounded  by  hostile  tribes,  who  would  doubtless  be 
incited  and  encouraged  to  deeds  of  violence  by  the  late  fearful 
catastrophe.  In  this  juncture  Mr.  M'Dougal,  we  are  told,  had 
recourse  to  a  stratagem  by  which  to  avail  himself  of  the  igno- 
rance and  credulity  of  the  savages,  and  which  certainly  does 
credit  to  his  ingenuity. 

The  natives  of  the  coast,  and,  indeed,  of  all  the  regions 
west  of  the  mountains,  had  an  extreme  dread  of  the  small- 
pox ;  that  terrific  scourge  having,  a  few  years  previously, 
appeared  among  them,  and  almost  swept  off  entire  tribes.  Its 
origin  and  nature  were  wrapped  in  mystery,  and  they  con- 
ceived it  an  evil  inflicted  upon  them  by  the  Great  Spirit,  or 
brought  among  them  by  the  white  men.  The  last  idea  Avas 
seized  upon  by  Mr.  M'Dougal.  He  assembled  several  of  the 
chieftains  whom  he  believed  to  be  in  the  conspiracy.  When 
they  were  all  seated  around,  he  informed  them  that  he  had 
heard  of  the  treachery  of  some  of  their  northern  brethren 
towards   the   Tonquin,  and   was   determined   on   vengeance. 


^ 


THE    GREAT    SMALLPOX    CHIEF. 


125 


>0X  CHIEF 
UPPER — A 
I     ON    THE 


ssacre  of 
LStorians. 
a  savage 
btless  be 
te  fearful 
told,  had 
the  igno- 
nly  does 

regions 
e  small- 
eviously, 
)es.  Its 
ley  con- 
spirit,  or 
dea  was 
il  of  the 
When 

he  had 
brethren 
igeance. 


;! 


"  The  white  men  among  you,"  said  he,  "  are  few  in  number, 
it  is  true,  but  they  are  mighty  in  medicine.  See  here,"  con- 
tinued he,  drawing  forth  a  small  bottle  and  holding  it  before 
their  eyes,  "  in  this  bottle  I  hold  the  smallpox,  safely  corked 
up ;  I  have  but  to  draw  the  cork,  and  let  loose  the  pestilence, 
to  sweep  man,  woman,  and  child,  from  the  face  of  the  earth !" 

The  chiefs  were  struck  with  horror  and  alarm.  They 
implored  him  not  to  uncork  the  bottle,  since  they  and  all  their 
people  were  firm  friends  of  the  white  men,  and  would  always 
remain  so ;  but,  should  the  smallpox  be  once  let  out,  it  would 
run  like  wildfire  throughout  tlie  country,  sweeping  off  the  good 
as  well  as  the  bad ;  and  surely  he  would  not  be  so  unjust  as  to 
punish  his  friends  for  crimes  committed  by  his  enemies. 

Mr.  M'Dougal  pretended  to  be  convinced  by  their  reasoning, 
and  assured  them  that,  so  long  as  the  white  people  should  be 
unmolested,  and  the  conduct  of  their  Indian  neighbors  friendly 
and  hospitable,  the  phial  of  wrath  should  remain  sealed  up ; 
but,  on  the  least  act  of  hostility,  the  fatal  cork  should  be 
drawn. 

From  this  time,  it  is  added,  he  was  much  dreaded  by  the 
natives  as  one  who  held  their  fate  in  his  hands,  and  was 
called,  by  way  of  pre-eminence,  "  the  Great  Smallpox  Chief." 

All  this  while,  the  labors  at  the  infant  settlement  went  on 

with  unremitting  assiduity,  and,  by  the  26th  of  September,  a 

commodious  mansion,  spacious  enough   to  accommodate  all 

hands,  was  completed.     It  was  built  of  stone  and  clay,  there 

being  no  calcarious   stone  in  the  neighborhood  from  which 

lime  for  mortar  could  be  procured.     The  schooner  was  also 

finished,  and  launched,  with  the  accustomed  ceremony,  on  the 

second  of  October,  and  took  her  station  below  the  fort.     She 

was  named  the  Dolly,  and  was   the   first  American  vessel 

launched  on  this  coast. 

11* 


126 


AN    ARRIVAL. 


I'  ,i'i 


On  thr  5ih  of  October,  in  thn  eveninjf,  the  little  community 
ut  Astoria  was  enlivened  by  the  unexpected  arrival  of  a  detach- 
ment from  Mr.  David  Stuart's  post  on  the  Oakinaj,'an.  It 
consisted  of  two  of  the  clerks  and  two  of  the  privates.  They 
brought  favorable  accounts  of  the  new  establishment,  but 
reported  that,  as  Mr.  Stuart  was  apprehensive  the.^  might  be 
a  difhculty  of  subsisting  his  whole  party  throughout  the  win- 
ter, he  had  sent  one  half  back  to  Astoria,  retaining  with  him 
only  Ross,  Montigny,  and  two  others.  Such  is  the  hardihood 
of  the  Indian  trader.  In  the  heart  of  a  savage  and  unknown 
country,  seven  hundred  miles  from  the  main  body  of  his  fellow- 
adventurers,  Stuart  had  dismissed  half  of  his  little  number, 
and  was  prepared  with  the  residue  to  brave  all  the  perils  of 
the  wilderness,  and  the  rigors  of  a  long  and  dreary  winter. 

With  the  return  party  came  a  Canadian  creole  named  Regis 
Brugiere,  and  an  Iroquois  hunter,  with  his  wife  and  two  chil- 
dren. As  these  two  personages  belong  to  certain  classes 
which  have  derived  their  peculiar  characteristics  from  the  fur 
trade,  we  deem  some  few  particulars  concerning  them  perti- 
nent to  the  nature  of  this  work. 

Brugiere  was  of  a  class  of  beaver  trappers  ai^l  hunters 
technically  called  freemen,  in  the  language  of  the  traders. 
They  are  generally  Canadians  by  birth,  and  of  French  de- 
scent, who  have  been  employed  for  a  term  of  years  by  some 
fur  company,  but,  their  term  being  expired,  continue  to  hunt 
and  trap  on  their  own  account,  trading  with  the  company  like 
the  Indians.  Hence  they  derive  their  appellation  of  freemen, 
to  distinguish  them  from  the  trappers,  who  are  bound  for  a 
number  of  years,  and  receive  wages,  or  hunt  on  shares. 

Having  passed  their  early  youth  in  the  wilderness,  sepa- 
rated almost  entirely  from  civilized  man,  and  in  frequent  inter- 
course with  the  Indians,  they  lapse,  with  a  facility  common  to 


A    FREEMAN    OP    THE    FOIIEST. 


127 


human  nature,  into  the  habitiulos  of  savage  life.  Thoufrh  no 
longer  bound  by  engagements  to  c(mtinue  in  the  interior,  they 
have  become  so  accustomed  to  the  freedom  of  tlie  forest  and 
the  prairie,  that  they  look  back  with  repugnance  upon  the 
restraints  of  civilization.  Most  of  them  intermarry  with  the 
natives,  and,  like  the  latter,  have  often  a  plurality  of  wives. 
Wanderers  of  the  wilderness,  according  to  the  vicissitudes  of 
the  seasons,  the  migrations  of  animals,  and  the  plenty  or  scar- 
city of  game,  they  lead  a  precarious  and  unsettled  existence  ; 
exposed  to  sun  and  storm,  and  all  kinds  of  hardships,  until 
they  resemble  the  Indians  in  complexion  as  well  as  in  tastes 
and  habits.  From  time  to  time,  they  bring  the  peltries  they 
have  collected  to  the  trading  houses  of  the  company  in  whose 
employ  they  have  been  brought  up.  Here  they  traffic  them 
away  for  such  articles  of  merchandise  or  anmiunition  as  they 
may  stand  in  need  of.  At  the  time  when  Montreal  was  the 
great  emporium  of  the  fur  trader,  one  of  these  freemen  of  the 
wilderness  would  suddenly  return,  after  an  absence  of  many 
years,  among  his  old  friends  and  comrades.  He  would  be 
greeted  as  one  risen  from  the  dead  ;  and  with  the  greater  wel- 
come, as  he  returned  flush  of  money.  A  short  time,  however, 
spent  in  revelry  would  be  sufficient  to  drain  his  purse  and  sate 
him  with  civilized  life,  and  he  would  return  with  new  relish  to 
the  unshackled  freedom  of  the  forest. 

Numbers  of  men  of  this  class  were  scattered  throughout 
the  north-west  territories.  Some  of  them  retained  a  little  of 
the  thrift  and  forethought  of  the  civilized  man,  and  became 
wealthy  among  their  improvident  neighbors  ;  their  wealth 
being  chietly  displayed  in  large  bands  of  horses,  which 
covered  the  prairies  in  the  vicinity  of  their  abodes.  Most  of 
them,  however,  were  prone  to  assimilate  to  the  red  man  in 
their  heedlessness  of  the  future. 


?f.J 


128 


AN    IROQUOIS    HUNTER. 


,1    ■<( 
I 


»    'A 


Such  was  Rrj^is  Brugiere,  a  fnfcmati  and  rover  of  the  wil- 
derness. Having  boon  broiiglit  up  in  the  service  of  the  North- 
west Company,  lie  had  followed  in  the  train  of  one  of  its 
expeditions  across  the  llocky  mountains,  and  imdertaken  to 
trap  for  the  trading  post  established  on  the  Spokan  river.  In 
the  course  of  his  hunting  excursions  he  had  either  accident- 
ally, or  designedly,  found  his  way  to  the  post  of  Mr.  Stuart, 
Hud  been  prevailed  upon  to  descend  the  Columbia,  and  "  try 
his  luck"  at  Astoria. 

Ignace  Shonowane,  the  Iroquois  hunter,  was  a  specimen  of 
a  different  class.  He  was  one  of  those  aboriginals  of  Canada 
who  had  partially  conformed  to  the  habits  of  civilization,  and 
the  doctrines  of  Christianity,  under  the  influence  of  the  French 
colonists  and  the  Cathohc  priests ;  who  seem  generally  to 
have  been  more  successful  in  conciliating,  taming,  and  con- 
verting the  savages,  than  their  English  and  Protestant  rivals. 
These  half  civilized  Indians  retained  some  of  the  good,  and 
many  of  the  evil  qualities  of  their  original  stock.  They  were 
firstrate  hunters,  and  dexterous  in  the  management  of  the 
canoe.  They  could  undergo  great  privations,  and  were  admi- 
rable for  the  service  of  the  rivers,  lakes,  and  forests,  provided 
they  could  be  kept  sober,  and  in  proper  subordination ;  but, 
once  inflamed  with  liquor,  to  which  they  were  madly  addicted, 
all  the  dormant  passions,  inherent  in  their  nature,  were  prone 
to  break  forth,  and  to  hurry  them  into  the  most  vindictive  and 
bloody  acts  of  violence. 

Though  they  generally  professed  the  Roman  Catholic  reli- 
gion, yet  it  was  mixed,  occasionally,  with  some  of  their 
ancient  superstitions ;  and  they  retained  much  of  the  Indian 
belief  in  charms  and  omens.  Numbers  of  these  men  were 
employed  by  the  North-west  Company  as  trappers,  himters, 
and  canoe  men,  but  on  lower  terms  than  were  allowed  to 


WINTER    ON    TUB    COLUMDIA. 


129 


\Q  wil- 
North- 

of  its 
ken  to 
er.  In 
xident- 

Stuart, 
11(1  "  try 

imen  of 
Canada 
ion,  and 
French 
irally  to 
,nd  con- 
[it  rivals. 
3od,  and 
ey  were 
,  of  the 
re  admi- 
irovided 
on ;  but, 
dieted, 
re  prone 
ive  and 

ic  reli- 
ef their 

Indian 
;n  were 
hunters, 
)wed  to 


white  men.  Ignaco  Shonownno  Imd,  in  this  way,  followed 
the  enterprise  of  the  company  to  the  banks  of  the  Spokan, 
beiiiK,  probably,  one  of  the  first  of  his  tribe  that  had  traversed 
the  iioeky  mountains. 

.Such  were  some  of  the  motley  populace  of  the  wilderness, 
incident  to  the  fur  trade,  who  were  gradually  attracted  to  the 
new  settlement  of  Astoria. 

The  month  of  Octob<!r  now  began  to  give  indications  ot 
approaching  winter.  Hitherto,  the  colonisLs  had  been  well 
pleased  with  the  climate.  The  summisr  had  been  temperate, 
the  mercury  never  rising  above  eighty  degrees.  Westerly 
winds  had  prevailed  during  the  spring  and  the  early  part  of 
sununcr,  and  been  succeeded  by  fresh  breezes  from  the  north- 
west. In  the  month  of  October  the  southerly  winds  set  in, 
bringing  with  them  frequent  rain. 

The  Indians  now  began  to  quit  the  borders  of  the  ocean, 
and  to  retire  to  their  winter  quarters  in  the  sheltered  bosom  of 
the  forests,  or  along  the  small  rivers  and  brooks.  The  rainy 
season,  which  commences  in  October,  continues,  with  little 
intermission,  until  April ;  and  though  the  winters  are  generally 
mild,  the  mercury  seldom  sinking  below  the  freezing  point, 
yet  the  tempests  of  wind  and  rain  are  terrible.  The  sun  is 
sometimes  obscured  for  weeks,  the  brooks  swell  into  roaring 
torrents,  and  the  country  is  threatened  with  a  deluge. 

The  departure  of  the  Indians  to  their  winter  quarters  gradu- 
ally rendered  provisions  scanty,  and  obliged  the  colonists  to 
send  out  foraging  expeditions  in  the  Dolly.  Still,  the  little 
handful  of  adventurers  kept  up  their  spirits  in  their  lonely  fort 
at  Astoria,  looking  forward  to  the  time  when  they  should  be 
animated  and  re-enforced  by  the  party  under  Mr.  Hunt,  that 
was  to  come  to  them  across  the  Rocky  mountains. 

The  year  gradually  wore   away.     The   rain,  which   had 


130 


NEW-YEAR    FESTIVITIES. 


poured  down  almost  incessantly  since  the  first  of  October, 
cleared  up  towards  the  evening  of  the  31st  of  December,  and 
the  morning  of  the  first  of  January  ushered  in  a  day  of  sun- 
shine. 

The  hereditary  French  holyday  spirit  of  the  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs  is  hardly  to  be  depressed  by  any  adversities ;  and 
they  can  manage  to  get  up  a  fete  in  the  most  squalid  sit- 
uations, and  under  the  most  untoward  circumstances.  An 
extra  allowance  of  rum,  and  a  little  flour  to  make  cakes  and 
puddings,  constitute  a  "  regale ;"  and  they  forget  all  their  toils 
and  troubles  in  the  song  and  the  dance. 

On  the  present  occasion,  the  partners  endeavored  to  cele- 
brate the  new-year  with  some  effect.  At  sunrise  the  drums 
beat  to  arms,  the  colors  were  hoisted,  with  three  rounds  of 
small  arms  and  three  discharges  of  cannon.  The  day  was 
devoted  to  games  of  agility  and  strength,  and  other  amuse- 
ments ;  and  grog  was  temperately  distributed,  together  with 
bread,  butter,  and  cheese.  The  best  dinner  their  circum- 
stances could  afford  was  served  up  at  mid-day.  At  sunset  the 
colors  were  lowered,  with  another  discharge  of  artillery.  The 
night  was  spent  in  dancing ;  and,  though  there  was  a  lack  of 
female  partners  to  excite  their  gallantry,  the  voyageurs  kept 
up  the  ball,  with  true  French  spirit,  until  three  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  So  passed  the  new-year  festival  of  1812  at  the 
infant  colony  of  Astoria. 


I 


I 


October, 
iber,  and 
r  of  sun- 


EXPEDITION    BY    LAND. 


131 


,1      i 


iian  voy- 
les ;  and 
ualid  sit- 
:es.  An 
akes  and 
their  toils 

1  to  ceie- 
he  drums 
rounds  of 

day  was 
;r  amuse- 
ther  with 
r  circum- 
5unset  the 
sry.     The 

a  lack  of 

eurs  kept 
ick  in  the 

.2  at  the 


•t 


1 


3 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Expedition    by    land — Wilson    P.    Hunt — his    character — Donald 

M'KeNZIE recruiting  service  among  the  VOYAGEURS A  BARK  CANOE 

— CHAPEL    OF    St.    Anne — votive    offerings — pious    carousals — a 

RAGGED     regiment MaCKINAVV PICTURE     OF    A    TRADING     POST FROL- 
ICKING    VOYAGEURS SWELLS      AND      SWAGGERERS InDIAN     COXCOMBS — ' 

A   MAN  OF  THE  NORTH JOCKEYSHIP  OF  VOYAGEURS INEFFICACY  OF  GOLD 

WEIGHT     OF    A    FEATHER Mr.     RaMSAY     CrOOKS HIS     CHARACTER 

HIS    RISKS     AMONG    THE  INDIANS HIS    WARNING  CONCERNING     SlOUX     AND 

BlACKFEET EMBARCATION     OP     RECRUITS PARTING     SCENES      BETWEEN 

BROTHERS,  COUSINS,  WIVES,   SWEETHEARTS,   AND  POT  COMPANIONS. 

We  have  followed  up  the  fortunes  of  the  maritime  part  of  this 
enterprise  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  and  have  conducted 
the  affairs  of  the  embryo  establishment  to  the  opening  of  the 
new-year ;  let  us  now  turn  back  to  the  adventurous  band  to 
whom  was  entrusted  the  land  expedition,  and  who  were  to 
make  their  way  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  up  vast  rivers, 
across  trackless  plains,  and  over  the  rugged  barriers  of  the 
Rocky  mountains. 

The  conduct  of  this  expedition,  as  has  been  already  men- 
tioned, was  assigned  to  Mr.  Wilson  Price  Hunt,  of  Trenton, 
New  Jersey,  one  of  the  partners  of  the  company,  who  was 
ultimately  to  be  at  the  head  of  the  establishment  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia.  He  is  represented  as  a  man  scrupulously 
upright  and  faithful  in  his  dealings,  amiable  in  his  disposition, 
and  of  most  accommodating  manners  ;  and  his  whole  conduct 


132 


DONALD    MKENZIE 


1^ 


\  I  ■ 


will  be  found  in  unison  with  such  a  character.  He  was  not 
practically  cxpericnceil  in  the  Indian  trade  ;  that  is  to  say,  he 
had  never  made  any  expeditions  of  traffic  into  the  heart  of  the 
wilderness,  but  he  had  been  engaged  in  commerce  at  8t. 
Louis,  then  a  frontier  settlement  on  the  Mississippi,  where  the 
chief  branch  of  his  business  had  consisted  in  furnishing  Indian 
traders  with  goods  and  equipments.  In  this  way,  he  had 
acquired  mi  ^h  knowledge  of  the  trade  at  second  hand,  and  of 
the  various  tribes,  and  the  interior  country  over  which  it 
extended. 

Another  of  the  partners,  Mr.  Donald  M'Kenzie,  was  asso- 
ciated with  Mr.  Hunt  in  the  expedition,  and  excelled  on  those 
points  in  which  the  other  was  deficient ;  for  he  had  been  ten 
years  in  the  interior,  in  the  service  of  the  North-west  Com- 
pany and  valued  himself  on  his  knowledge  of  *'  woodcraft," 
and  the  strategy  of  Indian  trade  and  Indian  warfare.  He  had 
a  frame  seasoned  to  toils  and  hardships ;  a  spirit  not  to  be 
intimidated,  and  was  reputed  to  be  a  "  remarkable  shot ;"  which 
of  itself,  was  sufficient  to  give  him  renown  upon  the  frontier. 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  coadjutor  repaired,  about  the  latter  part  of 
.luly,  1810,  to  Montreal,  the  ancient  emporium  of  the  fur  trade, 
where  every  thing  requisite  for  the  expedition  could  be  pro- 
cured. One  of  the  first  objects  was  to  recruit  a  complement 
of  Canadian  voyageurs  from  the  disbanded  herd  usually  to  be 
found  loitering  about  the  place.  A  degree  of  jockeyship,  hoAv- 
ever,  is  required  for  this  service,  for  a  Canadian  voyageur  is  as 
full  of  latent  tricks  and  vice  as  a  horse ;  and  when  he  makes 
the  greatest  external  promise,  is  prone  to  prove  the  greatest 
"take  in."  Beside,  the  North-west  Company,  who  maintained 
a  long  established  control  at  Montreal,  and  knew  the  qualities 
of  every  voyageur,  secretly  interdicted  the  prime  hands  from 
engaging  in  this  new  service  ;  so  that,  although  liberal  terms 


^1 


i$ 


i 


n  i 


A  DARK  CANOE CHAPEL  OF  ST.  ANNE. 


133 


was  not 
>  say,  he 
n  of  the 
3  at  8t. 
here  the 
ig  Indian 
he  had 
1,  and  of 
which  it 

^^as  asso- 
on  those 
been  ten 
est  Coni- 
3odcraft," 
He  had 
lot  to  be 
;;"  which 
ontier. 
r  part  of 
ur  trade, 
be  pro- 
plement 
illy  to  be 
lip,  how- 
eur  is  as 
le  makes 
orreatest 
aintained 
qualities 
ids  from 
ral  terms 


were  oflored,  few  presented  themselves  but  such  as  were  not 


?4 


worth  haviiu 


he 


From  these,  Mr.  Hunt  engaged  a  number  sufTicient, 
supposed,  for  present  purposes  ;  and,  having  laid  in  a  supply  of 
ammunition,  provisions,  and  Indian  goods,  embarked  all  on 
board  of  one  of  those  great  canoes  at  that  time  universally 
used  by  the  fur  traders  for  navigating  the  intricate  and  often 
obstructed  rivers.  The  canoe  was  between  thirty  and  forty 
feet  long,  and  several  feet  in  width ;  constructed  of  birch  bark, 
sewed  with  fibres  of  the  roots  of  the  spruce  tree,  and  daubed 
with  resin  of  the  pine,  instead  of  tar.  The  cargo  was  made 
up  in  packages,  weighing  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  pounds 
each,  for  the  facility  of  loading  and  unloading,  and  of  trans- 
portation at  portages.  The  canoe  itself,  though  capable  ol' 
sustaining  a  freight  of  upwards  of  four  tons,  could  readily  be 
carried  on  men's  shoulders.  Canoes  of  this  size  are  generally 
managed  by  eight  or  ten  men,  two  of  whom  are  picked  vet- 
erans, who  receive  double  wages,  and  are  stationed,  one  at  the 
bow  and  the  other  at  the  stern,  to  keep  a  look  out,  and  to  steer. 
They  are  termed  the  foreman  and  the  steersman.  The  rest, 
who  ply  the  paddles,  are  called  middle  men.  When  there 
is  a  favorable  breeze,  the  anoe  is  occasionally  navigated  with 
a  sail. 

The  expedition  took  its  regular  departure,  as  usual,  from  St. 
Anne's,  near  the  extremity  of  the  island  of  Montreal,  the  great 
starting  place  of  the  traders  to  the  interior.  Here  stood  the 
ancient  chapel  of  St.  Anne,  the  patroness  of  the  Canadian 
voyageurs ;  where  they  made  confession,  and  offered  up  their 
vows,  previous  to  departing  on  any  hazardous  expedition.  The 
shrine  of  the  saint  was  decorated  with  relics  and  votive  offer- 
ings hung  up  by  these  superstitious  beings,  either  to  propitiat-^ 

lier  favor,  or  in  gratitude  for  some  signal  deliverance  in  the 

12 


134 


MICIIILIMACKINAC. 


wilderness.  It  was  the  custom,  too,  of  these  devout  vaga- 
bonds, after  leaving  the  chapel,  to  have  a  grand  carouse,  in 
honor  of  the  saint  and  for  the  prosperity  of  the  voyage.  In 
this  part  of  their  devotions,  the  crew  of  Mr.  Hunt  proved  them- 
selves by  no  means  deficient.  Indeed,  he  soon  discovered 
that  his  recruits,  enlisted  at  Montreal,  were  fit  to  vie  with  the 
ragged  regiment  of  Falstaff".  Some  were  able-bodied,  but 
inexpert ;  others  were  expert,  but  lazy ;  while  a  third  class 
were  expert  and  willing,  but  totally  worn  out,  being  broken 
down  veterans,  incapable  of  toil. 

With  this  inefficient  crew  he  made  his  way  up  the  Ottawa 
river,  and  by  the  ancient  route  of  the  fur  traders,  along  a  suc- 
cession of  small  lakes  and  rivers,  to  Michilimackinac.  Their 
progress  was  slow  and  tedious.  Mr.  Hunt  was  not  accustomed 
to  the  management  of  "  voyageurs,"  and  he  had  a  crew  admi- 
rably disposed  to  play  the  old  soldier,  and  balk  their  work ; 
and  ever  ready  to  come  to  a  halt,  land,  make  a  fire,  put  on  the 
great  pot,  and  smoke,  and  gossip,  and  sing  by  the  hour. 

It  was  not  until  the  22d  of  July  that  they  arrived  at  Mack- 
inaw, situated  on  the  island  of  the  same  name,  at  the  conflu- 
ence of  lakes  Huron  and  Michigan.  This  famous  old  French 
trading  post  continued  to  be  a  rallying  point  for  a  multifarious 
and  motley  population.  The  inhabitants  were  amphibious  in 
their  habits,  most  of  them  being,  or  having  been,  voyageurs  or 
canoe  men.  It  was  the  great  place  of  arrival  and  departure 
of  the  south-west  fur  trade.  Here  the  Mackinaw  Company 
had  established  its  principal  post,  from  whence  it  communi- 
cated with  the  interior  and  with  Montreal.  Hence  its  various 
traders  and  trappers  set  out  for  their  respective  destinations 
about  lake  Superior  and  its  tributary  waters,  or  for  the  Missis- 
sippi, the  Arkansas,  the  Missouri,  and  the  other  regions  of  the 
west.     Here,   after  the   absence   of  a  year,  or  more,  they 


'  i 


"men  of  the  north." 


135 


f-; 
•i' 


4 


returned  with  their  pehries,  and  settled  their  accounts ;  the 
furs  rendered  in  by  them  being  transmitted,  in  canoes,  from 
hence  to  Montreal.  Mackinaw  was,  therefore,  for  a  great  part 
of  tlie  year,  very  scantily  peopled ;  but  at  certain  seasons  the 
traders  arrived  from  all  points,  with  their  crews  of  voyageurs, 
and  tlie  place  swarmed  like  a  hive. 

Mackinaw,  at  that  time,  was  a  mere  village,  stretching  along 
a  small  bay,  with  a  fine  broad  beach  in  front  of  its  principal 
row  of  houses,  and  dominated  by  the  old  fort,  which  crowned 
an  impending  height.  The  beach  was  a  kind  of  public  prom- 
enade, where  were  displayed  all  the  vagaries  of  a  seaport  on 
the  arrival  of  a  fleet  from  a  long  cruise.  Here  voyageurs  frol- 
icked away  their  wages,  fiddling  and  dancing  in  the  booths  and 
cabins,  buying  all  kinds  of  knick-knacks,  dressing  themselves 
out  finely,  and  parading  up  and  down,  like  arrant  braggarts  and 
coxcombs.  Sometimes  they  met  with  rival  coxcombs  in  the 
young  Indians  from  the  opposite  shore,  who  would  appear  on 
the  beach  painted  and  decorated  in  fantastic  style,  and  would 
saunter  up  and  down,  to  be  gazed  at  and  admired,  perfectly 
satisfied  that  they  eclipsed  their  palefaced  competitors. 

Now  and  then  a  chance  party  of  "  North-westers"  appeared 
at  Mackinaw  from  the  rendezvous  at  fort  William.  These 
held  themselves  up  as  the  chivalry  of  the  fur  trade.  They 
were  men  of  iron ;  proof  against  cold  weather,  hard  fare,  and 
perils  of  all  kinds.  Some  would  wear  the  north-west  button, 
and  a  formidable  dirk,  and  assume  something  of  a  military  air. 
They  generally  wore  feathers  in  their  hats,  and  affected  the 
"  brave."  "  Je  suis  un  homme  du  nord !" — "  I  am  a  man  of  the 
north,"  one  of  these  swelling  fellows  would  exclaim,  sticking 
his  arms  akimbo  and  ruffling  by  the  South-westers ;  whom  he 
regarded  with  great  contempt,  as  men  softened  by  mild  cli- 
mates and  the  luxurious  fare  of  bread  and  bacon,  and  whom 


% 


136 


roilK    EATERS — WARV    RECRUITS. 


he  stigiiifitized  with  the  inglorious  name  of  pork  eaters.  The 
superiority  assumed  by  those  vainglorious  swaggerers  was,  in 
general,  tacitly  admitted.  Indeed,  some  of  them  had  acquired 
great  notoriety  for  deeds  of  hardihood  and  courage  ;  for  the 
fur  trade  had  its  lieroes,  whose  names  resounded  throughout 
the  wilderness. 

Such  was  Mackinaw  at  the  time  of  which  we  are  treating. 
It  now,  doubtless,  presents  a  totally  diflercnt  aspect.  The  fur 
companies  no  longer  assemble  there  ;  the  navigation  of  the 
lakes  is  carried  on  by  steamboats  and  various  shipping,  and  the 
race  of  traders,  and  trappers,  and  voyageurs,  and  Indian  dan- 
dies, have  vapored  out  their  brief  hour  and  disaj)peared.  Such 
changes  does  the  lapse  of  a  handful  of  years  make  in  this  ever 
changing  country. 

At  this  place  Mr.  Hunt  remained  for  some  time,  to  complete 
his  assortment  of  Indian  goods,  and  to  increase  his  number  of 
voyageurs,  as  well  as  to  engage  some  of  a  more  eflicient  char- 
acter than  those  enlisted  at  Montreal. 

And  now  commenced  another  game  of  jockcyship.  There 
were  able  and  eflicient  men  iu  abundaiicc  at  Mackinaw,  but 
for  several  days  not  one  presented  himself.  If  offers  were 
made  to  any,  they  were  listened  to  witli  a  shakt;  of  the  head. 
Should  any  one  seem  inclined  to  enlist,  there  were  officious 
idlers  and  busybodics,  of  that  class  who  are  ever  ready  to  dis- 
suade others  from  any  enterprise  in  whicii  tliey  themselves 
have  no  concern.  These  would  pull  him  by  the  sleeve,  take 
him  on  one  side,  and  murmur  in  his  ear,  or  would  suggest 
difficulties  outright. 

It  was  objected  that  the  expedition  would  have  to  navigate 
unknown  rivers,  and  pass  through  howling  wildernesses  infest- 
ed by  savage  tribes,  who  had  already  cut  off  the  unfortunate 
voyageurs  that  had  ventured  among  them.     That  it  was  to 


A    STOOL    PIGEON — A    DECOY    PLUME. 


137 


ivigate 
infest- 

Irtunate 
,^as  10 


I 


climb  the  Rocky  mountains  and  descend  into  desolate  and 
famished  regions,  where  the  traveller  was  often  obliged  to 
subsist  on  grasshoppers  and  crickets,  or  to  kill  his  own  horse 
for  food. 

At  length  one  man  was  hardy  enough  to  engage,  and  he  was 
used  hke  a  "  stool  pigeon,"  to  decoy  others  ;  but  several  days 
elapsed  before  any  more  could  be  prevailed  upon  to  join  him. 
A  few  then  came  to  terms.  It  was  desirable  to  engage  them 
for  five  years,  but  some  refused  to  engage  for  more  than  three. 
Then  they  must  have  part  of  their  pay  in  advance,  which  was 
readily  granted.  When  they  had  pocketed  the  amount,  and 
squandered  it  in  regales  or  in  outfits,  they  began  to  talk  of 
pecuniary  obligations  at  Mackinaw,  which  must  be  discharged 
before  they  would  be  free  to  depart ;  or  engagements  with 
other  persons,  which  were  only  to  be  cancelled  by  a  "  reason- 
able consideration." 

It  was  in  vain  to  argue  or  remonstrate.  The  money  advanced 
had  already  been  sacked  and  spent,  and  must  be  lost  and  the 
recruits  left  behind,  unless  they  could  be  freed  from  their  debts 
and  engagements.  Accordingly,  a  fine  was  paid  for  one  ;  a 
judgment  for  another  ;  a  tavern  bill  for  a  third ;  and  almost  all 
had  to  be  bought  off  from  some  prior  engagement,  either  real 
or  pretended. 

Mr.  Hunt  groaned  in  spirit  at  the  incessant  and  unreason- 
able demands  of  these  worthies  upon  his  purse ;  yet  with  all 
this  outlay  of  funds,  the  number  recruited  was  but  scanty,  and 
many  of  the  most  desirable  still  held  themselves  aloof,  and 
were  not  to  be  caught  by  a  golden  bait.  With  these  he  tried 
another  temptation.  Among  the  recruits  who  had  enlisted  he 
distributed  feathers  and  ostrich  plumes.  These  they  put  in 
their  hats,  and  thus  figured  about  Mackinaw,  assuming  airs  of 

vast  importance,  as  "  voyageurs  in  a  new  company,  that  was 

12* 


tMNf 

i 

■ 

1 

i 

138 


MU.    RAMSAV    CilOOKS. 


% 


Iff 


to  eclipse  the  North-west."  Tlie  fllbct  was  coinj)lete.  A 
French  (.'anadiaa  is  too  vain  and  mercurial  a  being  to  with- 
stand the  finery  and  ostentation  of  tlie  ftuither.  Numbers 
inu)ii!diately  pressed  into  the  service.  One  must  have  an 
ostrich  plume  ;  another,  a  white  feather  with  a  red  end ;  a 
tliird,  a  bunch  of  cocks'  tails.  Thus  all  paraded  about,  in  vain- 
glorious style,  more  delighted  with  the  feathers  in  their  hats 
tlian  with  the  money  in  their  pockets;  and  considering  them- 
selves fully  equal  to  the  boastful  "  men  of  the  north." 

While  thus  recruiting  the  number  of  rank  and  file,  Mr.  Hunt 
was  joined  by  a  person  whom  he  had   invited,  by  letter,  to 
engage  as  a  partner  in  the  expedition.     This  was  Mr.  Ramsay 
Crooks,  a  young  man,  a  native  of  Scotland,  who  had  served 
under  the  North-west  Company,  and  been  engaged  in  trading 
expeditions  upon  his  individual  account,  among  the  tribes  of 
the  Missouri.     jNIr.  Hunt  knew  him  personally,  and  had  con- 
ceived a  high  and  merited  opinion  of  his  judgment,  enterprise, 
and  integrity :    he   was    rejoiced,  therefore,  when  the  latter 
consented  to  accompany  hirn.     Mr.  Crooks,  however,  drew 
from  experience  a  picture  of  the  dangers  to  which  they  would 
be  subjected,  and  urged  the  importance  of  going  with  a  con- 
siderable force.     In  ascending  the  upper  Missouri  they  would 
have  to  pass  through  the  country  of  the  Sioux  Indians,  who 
had  manifested  repeated  hostility  to  the  white   traders,  and 
rendered  their    expeditions    extremely  perilous ;   firing  upon 
them  from  the  river  banks  as  they  passed  beneath  in  their 
boats,  and  attacking  them  in  their  encampments.     Mr.  Crooks 
himself,  when  voyaging  in  company  with  another  trader  of  the 
name  of  M'Lellan,  had  been  interrupted  by  these  marauders, 
and  had  considered  himself  fortunate  in  escaping  down  the 
river  Avithout  loss  of  life  or  property,  but  with  a  total  abandon- 
ment of  his  trading  voyage. 


\.  % 


EMBARCATION    OF    CANADIAN    VOYAOEURS. 


139 


I 


Should  ihey  be  I'ortunate  onoi 
of  the  Sioux  \vithout  molestation,  tl 
tribe  still  more  savage  and  warlike 


h  to  pass  through  the  country 


ley 


iirou 
would 
r'oni 


lave 


nother 
beyond,  and  deadly  foes 


of  the  white  men.  'J'hese  were  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  who 
ranged  over  a  wide  extent  of  country  which  they  would  have 
to  traverse. 

Under  all  these  circumstances,  it  was  thought  advisable  to 
augment  the  party  considerably.  It  already  exceeded  the 
number  of  thirty,  to  which  it  had  originally  been  limited ;  but 
it  was  determined,  on  arriving  at  St.  Louis,  to  increase  it  to 
the  number  of  sixty. 

These  matters  being  arranged,  they  prepared  to  embark ; 
but  the  embarcation  of  a  crew  of  Canadian  voyageurs,  on  a 
distant  expedition,  is  not  so  easy  a  matter  as  might  be 
imagined  ;  especially  of  such  a  set  of  vainglorious  fellows  with 
money  in  both  pockets,  and  cocks'  tails  in  their  hats.  Like 
sailors,  the  Canadian  voyageurs  generally  preface  a  long  cruise 
with  a  carouse.  They  have  their  cronies,  their  brothers,  their 
cousins,  their  wives,  their  sweethearts ;  all  to  be  entertained 
at  their  expense.  They  feast,  they  fiddle,  they  drink,  they 
sing,  they  dance,  they  frolic  and  light,  until  they  are  all  as 
mad  as  so  many  drunken  Indians.  The  publicans  are  all 
obedience  to  their  commanls,  never  hesitating  to  let  them  rur. 
up  scores  without  limit,  knowing  that,  when  their  own  money 
is  expended,  the  purses  of  their  employers  must  answer  for 
the  bill,  or  the  voyage  must  bo  delayed.  Neither  was  it 
possible,  at  that  time,  to  remedy  the  matter  at  Mackinaw. 
In  that  amphibious  community  there  was  always  a  propensity 
to  wrest  the  laws  in  favor  of  riotous  or  mutinous  boatmen. 
It  was  necessary,  also,  to  keep  the  recruits  in  good-humor, 
seeing  the  novelty  and  danger  of  the  service  into  which  they 
were  entering,  and  the  ease  with  which  they  might  at  any 


140 


PARTINGS    OF    BOON    COMPANIONS. 


time  escape  it,  by  jumping  into  a  canoe  and  going  down  the 
stream. 

Such  were  the  scenes  that  beset  Mr.  Hunt,  and  gave  him  a 
foretaste  of  the  difficulties  of  his  command.  The  little  cabarets 
and  sutlers'  shops  along  the  bay  resounded  with  the  scraping 
of  fiddles,  with  snatches  of  old  French  songs,  with  Indian 
whoops  and  yelps  ;  while  every  plumed  and  feathered  vaga- 
bond had  his  troop  of  loving  cousins  and  comrades  at  his  heels. 
It  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  they  could  be  extricated 
from  the  clutches  of  the  publicans,  and  the  embraces  of  their 
pot  companions,  who  followed  them  to  the  water's  edge  with 
many  a  hug,  a  kiss  on  each  cheek,  and  a  maudlin  benediction 
in  Canadian  French. 

It  was  about  the  12th  of  August  that  they  left  Mackinaw, 
and  pursued  the  usual  route  by  Green  bay,  Fox  and  Wisconsin 
rivers,  to  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  thence  down  the  Mississippi 
to  St.  Louis,  where  they  landed  on  the  third  of  September. 


ST.    LOUIS. 


141 


CHAPTER  XIV, 


i 


St    Louis — its  situation — motf.ky  population — French  Crfoi.e  tra- 
ders   AND    THEIR    DEPENDANTS MiSSOl'IU  FuR  CoMPANY Mr.   MaNUEL 

Lisa — Mississippi  boatmen — vagrant  Lndians — Kentucky  hunters 
— old   French  mansion — kiddlino — iiii.liards — Mr.  Joseph  Miller 

his  character recruit.s — voyaoe  up  the  missouri — difficulties 

of  the   river — merits    of   canadian   voyaoeurs arrival    at  the 

NoDOWA — Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan  joins  the  party — John  Day,  a 
Virginia  hunter — description  of  hi.m-<-Mr.  Hunt  returns  to  St. 
Louis. 

St.  Louis,  which  is  situated  on  the  right  l)ank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi river,  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  was, 
at  that  time,  a  frontier  settlement,  and  the  last  fitting  out  place 
for  the  Indian  trade  of  the  south-west.     It  possessed  a  motley 
population,  ':;oniposed  of  the  Creole  descendants  of  the  original 
French  colonists  ;  the  keen  traders  from  the  Atlantic  states ; 
the  backwoodmen  of  Kentucky  and  'j^ennessee  ;  the  Indians 
and  half-breeds  of  the  prairies  ;  together  with  a  singular  aqua- 
tic race  that  had  grown  up  from  the  navigation  of  the  rivers — 
the  "  boatmen  of  the  Mississippi ;"  who  possessed  habits,  man- 
ners, and  almost  a  language,  peculiarly  tlicir  own,  and  strongly 
technical.     They,  at  that  time,  were  extremely  numerous,  and 
conducted  the  chief  navigation  and  commerce  of  the  Ohio  and 
the  Mississippi,  as  the  voyageurs  did  of  the  Canadian  waters ; 
but,  like  them,  their  consequence  and  characteristics  are  rapidly 
vanishing  before  the  all-pervading  intrusion  of  steamboats. 


142 


THE    MI.SSOI'IU    FUR    COMPANY. 


$  ^  n 


The  old  Fronch  houses  jiif^fiircd  in  iho  Indian  trade  had 
gathered  round  thorn  a  train  of  (h^|)on(hints,  mongrel  Indians, 
and  mongrel  Frenchmen,  who  had  intermarried  with  Indians. 
These  they  employed  in  their  various  expeditions  by  land  and 
water.  Various  individuals  of  other  countries  had,  of  late 
years,  pushed  the  trade  further  into  the  interior,  to  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  and  had  swelled  the  number  of  these 
hangers  on.  Several  of  these  traders  had,  two  or  three  years 
previously,  formed  themselvijs  into  a  company,  composed  of 
twelve  partners,  with  a  capital  of  about  forty  thousand  dollars, 
called  the  Missouri  Fur  Company ;  the  object  of  which  was, 
to  establish  posts  along  the  upper  part  of  that  river,  and  mo- 
nopolize the  trade.  The  leadmg  partner  of  this  company  was 
Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  a  Spaniard  by  birth,  and  a  man  of  bold  and 
enterprising  character,  who  had  ascended  the  Missouri  almost 
to  its  source,  and  made  himself  well  acquainted  and  popular 
with  several  of  its  tribes.  By  his  exertions,  trading  posts  had 
been  established,  in  1808,  in  the  Sioux  country,  and  among  the 
Aricara  and  Mandan  tribes ;  and  a  principal  one,  under  Mr. 
Henry,  one  of  the  partners,  at  the  forks  of  the  Missouri.  This 
company  had  in  its  employ  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  men, 
partly  American  hunters,  and  partly  Creoles  and  Canadian 
voyageurs. 

All  these  circumstances  combined  to  produce  a  population 
at  St.  Louis  even  still  more  motley  than  that  at  Mackinaw, 
Here  were  to  be  seen,  about  the  river  banks,  the  hectoring, 
extravagant,  bragging  boatmen  of  the  Mississippi,  with  the 
gay,  grimacing,  singing,  good-humored  Canadian  voyageurs. 
Vagrant  Indians,  of  various  tribes,  loitered  about  the  streets. 
Now  and  then,  a  stark  Kentucky  hunter,  in  leathern  hunting 
dress,  with  rifle  on  shoulder  and  knife  in  belt,  strode  along. 
Here  and  there  were  new  brick  houses  and  shops,  just  set  up 


' 


^ 


MR.   JOSEPH    MILI.ER. 


143 


■ade  had 
Indians, 
Indians, 
land  and 
,  of  late 
he  upper 

of  these 
ree  years 
posed  of 
d  dollars, 
hich  was, 
,  and  mo- 
ipany  was 
'  bold  and 
uri  almost 
d  popular 

posts  had 
imong  the 
ander  Mr. 
iri.     This 

fifty  men, 

Canadian 

population 
lackinaw. 
lectoring, 
with  the 
oyageurs. 
le  streets. 
n  hunting 
ode  along, 
ust  set  up 


by  bustling,  driving,  and  pager  men  of  trafllc,  from  the  Atlanlic 


'hih 


the  other  hand,  the  old   French 


states ;  wnile,  on  the  other  nana,  the  old  i*  reneti  ma  isions, 
with  open  casements,  still  retained  the  easy,  indolent  air  of 
till'  original  colonists  ;  and  now  and  then  the  scraping  of  a 
fuldk',  a  strain  of  an  ancient  French  song,  o*-  the  sound  of 
billiard  balls,  showed  that  the  happy  CJallic  turn  for  gayety 
and  amusement  still  lingered  about  the  place. 

JSuch  was  St.  Louis  at  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  arrival  there  ; 
and  the  appearance  of  a  new  fur  company,  with  ample  funds 
at  its  command,  produced  a  strong  sensation  among  the  Indian 
traders  of  the  place,  and  awakened  keen  jealousy  and  0[)posi- 
tion  on  the  part  of  the  Missouri  Company.  Mr.  Hunt  j)ro- 
ceeded  to  strengthen  himself  against  all  competition.  For 
this  purpose,  he  secured  to  the  interests  of  the  association 
another  of  those  enterprising  men,  who  had  been  engaged  in 
individual  trafllc  with  the  tribes  of  the  Missouri.  This  was  a 
Mr.  Joseph  Miller,  a  gentleman  well  educated  and  well  inform- 
ed, and  of  a  respectable  family  of  Baltimore.  He  had  been  an 
officer  in  the  army  of  the  United  States,  but  had  resigned  in 
disgust,  on  being  refused  a  furlough,  and  had  taken  to  trapping 
beaver  and  trading  among  the  Indians.  He  was  easily  induced 
by  Mr.  Hunt  to  join  as  a  partner,  and  was  considered  by  him, 
on  account  of  his  education  and  acquirements,  and  his  expe- 
rience in  Indian  trade,  a  valuable  addition  to  the  company. 

Several  additional  men  were  likewise  enlisted  at  St.  Louis ; 
some  as  boatmen,  and  others  as  hunters.  These  last  were 
engaged,  not  merely  to  kill  game  for  provisions,  but  also,  and 
indeed  chiefly,  to  trap  beaver  and  other  animals  of  rich  furs, 
valuable  in  the  trade.  They  enlisted  on  dill'erent  terms. 
Some  were  to  have  a  fixed  salary  of  three  hundred  dollars  ; 
others  were  to  be  fitted  out  and  maintained  at  the  expense  of 
the  coi.ipany,  and  were  to  hunt  and  trap  on  shares. 


144 


TEMPERATURE    OF'    THE    MISSOURI. 


JK 


I' 


As  Mr.  Hunt  met  with  much  opposition  on  the  part  of  rival 
traders,  especially  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  it  took  him 
some  weeks  to  complete  his  preparations.  The  delays  which 
he  had  previously  experienced  at  Montreal,  Mackinaw,  and  on 
the  way,  added  to  those  at  St.  Louis,  had  thrown  him  much 
behind  his  original  calculations,  so  that  it  would  be  impossible 
to  eflect  his  voyage  up  the  Missouri  in  the  present  year.  This 
river,  flowing  from  high  and  cold  latitudes,  and  through  wide 
and  open  plains,  exposed  to  chilling  blasts,  freezes  early. 
The  winter  may  be  dated  from  the  first  of  November ;  there 
was  every  prospect,  therefore,  that  it  would  be  closed  with  ice 
long  before  Mr.  Hunt  could  reach  its  upper  waters.  To  avoid, 
however,  the  expense  of  wintering  at  St.  Louis,  he  determined 
to  push  up  the  river  as  far  as  possible,  to  some  point  above  the 
settlements,  where  game  was  plenty,  and  where  his  whole 
party  could  be  subsisted  by  hunting,  until  the  breaking  up  of 
the   ice  in  the  spring  should  permit  them  to   resume  their 


voyage. 

1        o 


Accordingly,  on  the  twenty-first  of  October  he  took  his 
departure  from  St.  Louis.  His  party  was  distributed  in  three 
boats.  One  was  the  barge  which  he  had  brought  from  Mack- 
inaw ;  another  Avas  of  a  larger  size,  such  as  was  formerly  used 
in  navigating  the  Mohawk  river,  and  known  by  the  generic 
name  of  the  Schenectady  barge ;  the  other  was  a  large  keel 
boat,  at  that  time  the  grand  conveyance  on  the  Mississippi. 

In  this  way  they  set  out  from  St.  Louis,  in  buoyant  spirits, 
and  soon  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  This  vast 
river,  three  thousand  miles  in  length,  and  which,  with  its  trib- 
utary streams,  drains  such  an  immense  extent  of  country,  was 
as  yet  but  casually  and  imperfectly  navigated  by  the  adventur- 
ous bark  of  the  fur  trador.  A  steamboat  had  never  yet 
stemmed   its   turbulent   current.      Sails   were    but   of  casual 


:t  of  rival 
took  him 
lys  which 
sv,  and  on 
liim  much 
mpossible 
ar.     This 
311  gh  wide 
zes  early, 
ber;  there 
:d  with  ice 
To  avoid, 
letermined 
;  above  the 
his  whole 
king  up  of 
5ume  their 

took  his 
3d  in  three 
rom  Mack- 
merly  used 
he  generic 
large  keel 
issippi. 
'^ant  spirits, 
This  vast 
ith  its  trib- 
mntry,  was 
e  adventur- 
never   yet 
of  casual 


BOAT    NAVIGATION. 


145 


I 


assistance,  for  it  required  a  strong  wind  to  conquer  the  force 
of  the  stream.  Tl:''  main  dependance  was  on  bodily  strength 
and  manual  dexterity.  The  boats,  in  general,  had  to  be  pro- 
pelled by  oars  and  setting  poles,  or  drawn  by  the  hand  and  by 
grappling  hooks  from  one  root  or  overhanging  tree  to  another ; 
or  towed  by  the  long  cordelle,  or  towing  line,  where  the  shores 
were  sufficiently  clear  of  woods  and  thickets  to  permit  the 
men  to  pass  along  the  banks. 

During  this  slow  and  tedious  progress  the  boat  would  be 
exposed  to  frequent  danger  from  floating  trees  and  great 
masses  of  drift  wood,  or  to  be  impaled  upon  snags  and  saw- 
yers ;  that  is  to  say,  sunken  trees,  presenting  a  jagged  or 
pointed  end  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  As  the  channel 
of  the  river  frequently  shifted  from  side  to  side,  according  to 
the  bends  and  sand  banks,  the  boat  had,  in  the  same  way,  to 
advance  in  a  zigzag  course.  Often  a  part  of  the  crew  would 
have  to  leap  into  the  water  at  the  shallows,  and  wade  along 
with  the  towing  line,  while  their  comrades  on  board  toilfuUy 
assisted  with  oar  and  setting  pole.  Sometimes  the  boat  would 
seem  to  be  retained  motionless,  as  if  spell  boimd,  opposite 
some  point  round  which  the  current  set  with  violence,  and 
where  the  utmost  labor  scarce  effected  any  visible  progress. 

On  these  occasions  it  was  that  the  merits  of  the  Canadian 
voyageurs  came  into  full  action.  Patient  of  toil,  not  to  be 
disheartened  by  impediments  and  disappointments,  fertile  in 
expedients,  and  versed  in  every  mode  of  humoring  and  con- 
quering the  wayward  current,  they  would  ply  every  exertion, 
sometimes  in  the  boat,  sometimes  on  shore,  sometimes  in  the 
water,  however  cold ;  always  alert,  always  in  good-humor ; 
and,  should  they  at  any  time  flag  or  grow  weary,  one  of 
their  popular  boat  songs,  chanted  by  a  veteran  oarsman,  and 

responded  to  in  chorus,  acted  as  a  never-failing  restorative. 

13 


'wfW 


ijrt 


I      I 


146 


A    PARTISAN    UNDER    WAYNE. 


By  such  assiduous  and  persevering  labor  they  made  their 
way  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles  up  the  Missouri,  by  the 
16th  of  November,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Nodowa.  As  this  was 
a  good  hunting  country,  and  as  the  season  was  rapidly  advanc- 
ing, they  determined  to  establish  their  winter  quarters  at  this 
j)Iace  ;  and,  in  fact,  two  days  after  they  had  come  to  a  halt,  the 
river  closed  just  above  their  encampment. 

The  party  had  not  been  long  at  this  place  when  they  were 
joined  by  Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan,  another  trader  of  the  Missouri ; 
the  same  who  had  been  associated  with  Mr.  Crooks  in  the 
unfortunate  expedition  in  which  they  had  been  intercepted  by 
the  Sioux  Indians,  and  obliged  to  make  a  rapid  retreat  down 
the  river. 

M'Lellan  was  a  remarkable  man.  He  had  been  a  partisan 
under  General  Wayne  in  his  Indian  wars,  where  he  had  dis- 
tinguished himself  by  his  fiery  spirit  and  reckless  daring,  and 
marvellous  stories  were  told  of  his  exploits.  His  appearance 
answered  to  his  character.  His  frame  was  meagre,  but  mus- 
cular ;  showing  strength,  activity,  and  iron  firmness.  His 
eyes  were  dark,  deep  set,  and  piercing.  He  was  restless, 
fearless,  but  of  impetuous  and  sometimes  ungovernable  temper. 
He  had  been  invited  by  Mr.  Hunt  to  enrol  himself  as  a  part- 
ner, and  gladly  consented ;  being  pleased  with  the  thoughts  of 
passing,  with  a  powerful  force,  through  the  country  of  the 
Sioux,  and  perhaps  having  an  opportunity  of  revenging  himself 
upon  that  lawless  tribe  for  their  past  offences. 

Another  recruit  that  joined  the  camp  at  Nodowa  deserves 
equal  mention.  This  was  John  Day,  a  hunter  from  the  back- 
woods of  Virginia,  but  who  had  been  several  years  on  the 
Missouri  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Crooks,  and  of  other  traders. 
He  was  about  forty  years  of  age,  six  feet  two  inches  high, 
straight  as  an  Indian  ;  with  an  elastic  step  as  if  he  trod  on 


JOHN    DAY,    THE    VIRGINIAN    HUNTER. 


147 


e  their 
,  by  the 
lis  was 
advanc- 
at  this 
lalt,  the 

3y  were 
Missouri ; 
J  in  the 
5pted  by 
It  clown 

partisan 
had  dis- 
•ing,  and 
)earauce 
jut  mus- 
Ss.     His 
restless, 
temper. 
s  a  part- 
ughts  of 
of  the 
himself 

deserves 
ne  back- 
s  on  the 

traders. 

es  high, 
;  trod  on 


springs,  and  a  handsome,  open,  manly  countenance.  It  was 
his  boast  that,  in  his  younger  days,  nothing  could  hurt  or  daunt 
him  ;  but  he  liad  "  lived  too  fast,"  and  injured  his  constitution 
by  his  excesses.  Still  he  was  strong  of  hand,  bold  of  heart, 
a  prime  woodman,  and  an  almost  unerring  shot.  He  had  the 
frank  spirit  of  a  Virginian,  and  the  rough  heroism  of  a  pioneer 
of  the  west. 

The  party  were  now  brought  to  a  halt  for  several  months. 
They  were  in  a  country  abounding  with  deer  and  wild  tur- 
keys, so  that  there  was  no  stint  of  provisions,  and  every  one 
appeared  cheerful  and  contented.  Mr.  Hunt  determined  to 
avail  himself  of  tliis  interval  to  return  to  St.  Louis  and  obtain 
a  re-enforcement.  He  wished  to  procure  an  interpreter, 
acquainted  with  the  language  of  the  Sioux ;  as,  from  all 
accounts,  he  apprehended  difficulties  in  passing  through  the 
country  of  that  nation.  He  felt  the  necessity,  also,  of  having 
a  greater  number  of  hunters,  not  merely  to  keep  up  a  supply 
of  provisions  throughout  their  long  and  arduous  expedition,  but 
also  as  a  protection  and  defence,  in  case  of  Indian  hostilities. 
For  such  service  the  Canadian  voyageurs  were  little  to  be 
depended  upon,  lighting  not  being  a  part  of  their  profession. 
The  proper  kind  of  men  were  American  hunters,  experienced 
in  savage  life  and  savage  warfare,  and  possessed  of  the  true 
game  spirit  of  the  west. 

Leaving,  therefore,  the  encampment  in  charge  of  the  other 
partners,  Mr.  Hunt  set  off  on  foot  on  the  first  of  January, 
(1810)  for  St.  TiOuis.  He  was  accompanied  by  eight  men  as 
far  as  fort  Osage,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  below 
Nodowa.  Here  he  procured  a  couple  of  horses,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  the  remainder  of  his  journey  with  two  men,  sending 
the  other  six  back  to  the  encampment.  He  arrived  at  St. 
Louis  on  the  20lh  of  January. 


148 


MR.   HENRY    AND    THE    BLACKFEET. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


mm 


Opposition   of   the   Missouri    Fur    Company — Blackfeet   Indians — 
Pierre  Dorion,  a  half-breed  interpreter — old  Dorion  and  his 

hybrid  progeny family  quarrels — cross  purposes  between  do- 

RiON   AND    Lisa — renegadoes    from    Nodowa — perplexities    OF    A 

COMMANDER — MesSRS.    BraDBURY    AND    NuTTALL    JOIN    THE    EXPEDITION 
LEGAL    EMBARRASSMENTS    OF    PlERRE    DoRION DEPARTURE    FROM    St. 

Louis — conjugal   discipline    of    a    half-breed — annual    swelling 

OF   THE    rivers DaNIEL    BoON,    THE    PATRIARCH    OF    KENTUCKY JoHN 

Colter — his  adventures  among  the  Indians — rumors  of  danger 

AHEAD fort    OsAGE — AN    InDIAN    WAR-FEAST TROUBLES    IN   THE    Do- 

RION   FAMILY BUFFALOES    AND   TUEKEY-BUZZARDS. 


i 


On  this  his  second  visit  to  St.  Louis,  Mr.  Hunt  was  again 
impeded  in  his  plans  by  the  opposition  of  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company.  The  affairs  of  that  company  were,  at  this  time,  in 
a  very  dubious  state.  During  the  preceding  year,  their  prin- 
cipal establishment  at  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  had  been  so 
much  harassed  by  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  that  its  commander, 
Mr.  Henry,  one  of  the  partners,  had  been  compelled  to  aban- 
don the  post  and  cross  the  Rocky  mountains,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  fixing  himself  upon  one  of  the  upper  branches  of  the 
Columbia.  What  had  become  of  him  and  his  party  was 
unknown.  The  most  intense  anxiety  was  felt  concerning 
them,  and  apprehensions  that  they  might  have  been  cut  off  by 
the  savages.  At  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  arrival  at  St.  Louis, 
the  Missouri  Company  were  fitting  out  an^  expedition  to  go  in 


DOMESTIC    ECONOMY    OF    A    HYBRID    FAMILY. 


149 


Indians — 

I  AND  HIS 
WEEN  Do- 
lES  OF  A 
;XPEDITIOX 

FROM  St. 

swelling 

:ky — John 

)F    DANGER 

(  THE  Do- 


as  again 

iouri  Fur 

time,  in 

leir  prin- 

been  so 

imander, 

to  aban- 

le  inten- 

s  of  the 

rty  was 

ncerning 

ut  off  by 

t.  Louis, 

to  go  in 


quest  of  Mr.  Henry.  It  was  to  be  conducted  by  Mr.  Manuel 
Lisa,  the  enterprising  partner  already  mentioned. 

There  being  thus  two  expeditions  on  foot  at  the  same 
moment,  an  unusual  demand  was  occasioned  for  hunters  and 
voyagcurs,  wlio  accordingly  profited  by  the  circumstance, 
and  stipulated  for  high  terms.  Mr.  Hunt  found  a  keen  and 
subtle  competitor  in  Lisa,  and  was  obliged  to  secure  his 
recruits  by  liberal  advances  of  pay,  and  by  other  pecuniary 
indulgences. 

The  greatest  difTiculty  was  to  procure  the  Sioux  interpreter. 
There  was  but  one  man  to  be  met  with  at  St.  Louis  who  was 
fitted  for  the  purpose,  but  to  secure  him  would  require  much 
management.  The  individual  in  question  was  a  half-breed, 
named  Pierre  Dorion  ;  and,  as  he  figures  hereafter  in  this 
narrative,  and  is,  withal,  a  striking  specimen  of  the  hybrid 
race  on  tlie  frontier,  we  shall  give  a  few  particulars  concern- 
ing him.  Pierre  was  the  son  of  Dorion,  the  French  inter- 
preter, Avho  accompanied  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  their 
famous  exploring  expedition  across  the  Rocky  mountains. 
Old  Dorion  was  one  of  those  French  Creoles,  descendants  of 
the  ancient  Canadian  stock,  who  abound  on  the  western  fron- 
tier, and  amalgamate  or  cohabit  with  the  savages.  He  had 
sojourned  among  various  tribes,  and  perhaps  left  progeny 
among  them  all ;  but  his  regular,  or  habitual  wife,  was  a  Sioux 
squaw.  By  her  he  had  a  hopeful  brood  of  half-breed  sons,  of 
whom  Pierre  was  one.  The  domestic  affairs  of  old  Dorion 
were  conducted  on  ♦he  true  Indian  plan.  Father  and  sons 
would  occasionally  get  drunk  together,  and  then  the  cabin  was 
a  scene  of  ruffian  brawl  and  fighting,  in  the  course  of  which 
the  old  Frenchman  was  apt  to  get  soundly  belabored  by  his 
mongrel  offspring.     In  a  furious  sculHe  of  the  kind,  one  of  the 

sons  got  the  old  man  upon  the  ground,  and  was  upon  the  point 

13* 


Mf'!!; 


;i1 


150 


PIERRE    DORION    AND    HIS    WHISKEY    DEBT. 


1 

jih 

vit 

1 

".% 

m 

i 

i 

i 
1 

of  scalping  hira.  "  Hold !  my  son,"  cried  the  old  fellow,  in 
imploring  accents,  "  you  are  too  brave,  too  honorable  to  scalp 
your  father!"  This  last  appeal  touched  the  French  side  of 
the  half-breed's  heart,  so  he  suffered  the  old  man  to  wear  his 
scalp  unharmed. 

Of  this  hopeful  stock  was  Pierre  Dorion,  the  man  whom  it 
was  now  the  desire  of  Mr.  Hunt  to  engage  as  an  interpreter. 
He  had  been  employed  in  that  capacity  by  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company  during  the  preceding  year,  and  had  conducted  their 
traders  in  safety  through  the  different  tribes  of  the  Sioux.  He 
had  i)roved  himself  faithful  and  serviceable  while  sober ;  but 
the  love  of  liquor,  in  which  he  had  been  nurtured  and  brought 
up,  would  occasionally  break  out,  and  with  it  the  savage  side 
of  his  character. 

It  was  this  love  of  liquor  which  had  embroiled  him  with  the 
Missouri  Company.  While  in  their  service  at  fort  Mandan, 
on  the  frontier,  he  had  been  seized  with  a  whiskey  mania ; 
and,  as  the  beverage  was  only  to  be  procured  at  the  company's 
store,  it  had  been  charged  in  his  accoimt  at  the  rate  of  ten 
dollars  a  quart.  Ti.is  item  had  ever  remained  unsettled,  and 
a  matter  of  furious  dispute,  the  mere  mention  of  which  was 
sufficient  to  put  him  in  a  passion. 

The  moment  it  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Lisa  that  Pierre 
Dorion  was  in  treaty  with  the  new  and  rival  association,  he 
endeavored,  by  threats  as  well  as  promises,  to  prevent  his 
engaging  in  their  service.  His  promises  might,  perhaps,  have 
prevailed ;  but  his  threats,  which  related  to  the  whiskey  debt, 
only  served  to  drive  Pierre  into  the  opposite  ranks.  Still,  he 
took  advantage  of  this  competition  for  his  services  to  stand  out 
with  Mr.  Hunt  on  the  most  advantageous  terms,  and,  after  a 
negotiation  of  nearly  two  weeks,  capitulated  to  serve  in  the 
expedition,  as  hunter  and  interpreter,  at  tlie  rate  of  three  hun- 


RENEGADOES    FROM    NODOWA, 


151 


i 


dred  dollars  a  year,  two  hundred  of  which  were  to  be  paid  in 
advance. 

When  Mr.  Hunt  had  got  every  thing  ready  for  leaving  St, 
Louis,  new  difficulties  arose.  Five  of  the  American  hunters, 
from  the  encampment  at  Nodowa,  suddenly  made  their  appear- 
ance. They  alleged  that  they  had  been  ill  treated  by  the 
partners  at  the  encampment,  and  had  come  off  clandestinely, 
in  consequence  of  a  dispute.  It  was  useless  at  the  present 
moment,  and  under  present  circumstances,  to  attempt  any 
compulsory  measures  with  these  deserters.  Two  of  them 
Mr.  Hunt  prevailed  upon,  by  mild  means,  to  return  with  him. 
The  rest  refused ;  nay,  what  was  worse,  they  spread  such 
reports  of  the  hardships  and  dangers  to  be  apprehended  in  the 
course  of  the  expedition,  that  they  struck  a  panic  into  those 
hunters  who  had  recently  engaged  at  St.  Louis,  and,  when  the 
hour  of  departure  arrived,  all  but  one  refused  to  embark.  It 
was  in  vain  to  plead  or  remonstrate  ;  they  shouldered  their 
rifles  and  turned  their  back  upon  the  expedition,  and  Mr.  Hunt 
was  fain  to  put  ofT  from  shore  with  ihe  single  hunter  and  a 
number  of  voyageurs  whom  he  had  engaged.  Even  Pierre 
Dorion,  at  the  last  moment,  refused  to  enter  the  boat  until  Mr. 
Hunt  consented  to  take  his  squaw  and  two  children  on  board 
also.  But  the  tissue  of  perplexities,  on  account  of  this  worthy 
individual,  did  not  end  here. 

Among  the  various  persons  Avho  were  about  to  proceed  up 
the  Missouri  with  Mr.  Hunt,  were  two  scientific  gentlemen : 
one  Mr.  John  Bradbury,  a  man  of  mature  age,  but  great  enter- 
prise and  personal  activity,  who  had  been  sent  out  by  the 
Linnean  Society  of  Liverpool,  to  make  a  collection  of  Ameri- 
can plants ;  the  other  a  Mr.  Nuttall,  likewise  an  Englishman, 
younger  in  years,  who  has  since  made  himself  known  as  the 
author  of  "  Travels  in  Arkansas,"  and  a  work  on  the  "  Genera 


'WW~' 


152 


LEGAL   PERPLEXITIES    OF    PIERRE    DORION. 


of  American  Plants."  Mr.  Hunt  had  offered  them  the  protec- 
tion and  facilities  of  his  party,  in  their  scientific  researches 
up  the  Missouri.  As  they  were  not  ready  to  depart  at  the 
moment  of  cmbarcation,  they  put  their  trunks  on  board  of  the 
boat,  but  remained  at  St.  Louis  until  the  next  day,  for  the  arri- 
val of  the  post,  intending  to  join  the  expedition  at  St.  Charles, 
a  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 

The  same  evening,  however,  they  learned  that  a  writ  had 
been  issued  against  Pierre  Dorion  for  his  whiskej'-  debt,  by 
Mr.  Lisa,  as  agent  of  the  Missouri  Company,  and  that  it  was 
the  intention  to  entrap  the  mongrel  linguist  on  his  arrival  i!.t 
St.  Charles.  Upon  hearing  this,  Mr.  Bradbury  and  Mr.  Nutt- 
all  set  off  a  little  after  midnight,  by  land,  got  ahead  of  the  boat 
as  it  was  ascending  the  Missouri,  before  its  arrival  at  St. 
Charles,  and  gave  Pierre  Dorion  warning  of  the  legal  toil 
prepared  to  ensnare  him.  The  knowing  Pierre  immediately 
landed  and  took  to  the  woods,  followed  by  his  squaw  laden 
with  their  papooses,  and  a  large  bundle  containing  their  most 
precious  effects  ;  promising  to  rejoin  the  party  some  distance 
above  St.  Charles.  There  seemed  little  dependance  to  be 
placed  upon  tho  promises  of  a  loose  adventurer  of  the  kind, 
who  was  at  the  very  time  playing  an  evasive  game  with  his 
former  employers ;  who  had  already  received  two-thirds  of 
his  year's  pay,  and  had  his  rifle  on  his  shoulder,  his  family 
and  worldly  fortune  at  his  heels,  and  the  wild  woods  before 
him.  There  was  no  alternative,  however,  and  it  was  hoped 
his  pique  against  his  old  employers  would  render  him  faith- 
ful to  his  new  ones. 

The  party  reached  St.  Charles  in  the  afternoon,  but  the  har- 
pies of  the  law  looked  in  vain  for  their  expected  prey.  The 
boats  resumed  their  course  on  the  following  morning,  and  had 
not  proceeded  far  when  Pierre  Dorion  made  his  appearance 


CONJUGAL    DISCIPLINE    OP    A    IIALF-BREED. 


153 


protec- 
e  arches 
,  at  the 
1  of  the 
;he  arri- 
Dharles, 

vrit  had 
debt,  by 
it  it  was 
irrival  vX 
Ir.  Nutt- 
the  boat 
il  at  St. 
legal  toil 
lediately 
,w  laden 
leir  most 
distance 
;e  to  be 
he  kind, 
with  his 
birds  of 
s  family 
s  before 
is  hoped 
im  faith- 

the  har- 
■f.  The 
and  had 
jearance 


on  the  shore.  lie  was  gladly  taken  on  board,  but  he  came 
without  his  squaw.  They  had  quarrelled  in  the  night ;  Pierre 
had  administered  the  Indian  discipline  of  the  cudgel,  where- 
upon she  had  taken  to  the  woods,  with  their  children  and  all 
their  worldly  goods.  Pierre  evidently  was  deeply  grieved  and 
disconcerted  at  the  loss  of  his  wife  and  his  knapsack,  where- 
fore Mr.  Hunt  dispatched  one  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs  in 
search  of  the  fugitive ;  and  the  whole  party,  after  proceeding  a 
few  miles  further,  encamped  on  an  island  to  await  his  return. 
The  Canadian  rejoined  the  party,  but  without  the  squaw ;  and 
Pierre  Dorion  passed  a  solitary  and  anxious  night,  bitterly 
regretting  his  indiscretion  in  having  exercised  his  conjugal 
authority  so  near  home.  Before  daybreak,  however,  a  well 
known  voice  reached  his  ears  from  the  opposite  shore,  it 
was  his  repentant  spouse,  who  had  been  wandering  the  woods 
all  night  in  quest  of  the  party,  and  had  at  length  descried  it  by 
its  fires.  A  boat  was  dispatched  for  her,  the  interesting  family 
was  once  more  united,  and  Mr.  Hunt  now  flattered  himself 
that  his  perplexities  with  Pierre  Dorion  were  at  an  end. 

Bad  weather,  very  heavy  rains,  and  an  unusually  early  rise 
in  the  Missouri,  rendered  the  ascent  of  the  river  toilsor.e, 
slow,  and  dangerous.  The  rise  of  the  Missouri  does  not 
generally  take  place  until  the  month  of  May  or  June  :  the 
present  swelling  of  the  river  nnvA  have  been  caused  by  a 
freshet  in  some  of  its  more  southern  branches.  It  could  not 
have  been  the  great  annual  flood,  as  the  higher  branches  must 
still  have  been  ice-bound. 

And  here  we  cannot  but  pause,  to  notice  the  admirable 
arrangement  of  nature,  by  which  the  annual  swellings  of  the 
various  great  rivers  which  empty  themselves  into  the  Missis- 
sippi, have  been  made  to  precede  each  other  at  considerable 
intervals.     Thus,  the  flood  of  the  Red  river  precedes  that  of 


m 


:rif 


I   ;t 


I    : 


■  Sri 


154 


DANIEL    BOON. 


the  Arkansas  by  a  month.  The  Arkansas,  also,  rising  in  a 
much  more  southern  latitude  than  the  Missouri,  takes  the  lead 
of  it  in  its  annual  excess,  and  its  superabundant  waters  are 
disgorged  and  disposed  of  long  before  the  breaking  up  of  the 
icy  barriers  of  the  north ;  otherwise,  did  all  these  mighty 
streams  rise  simultaneously,  and  discharge  their  vernal  floods 
into  the  Mississippi,  an  inundation  would  be  the  consequence, 
that  would  submerge  and  devastate  all  the  lower  country. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day,  January  17th,  the  boats 
touched  at  Charette,  one  of  the  old  villages  founded  by  the 
original  French  colonists.  Here  they  met  with  Daniel  Boon, 
the  renowned  patriarch  of  Kentucky,  who  had  kept  in  the 
advance  of  civilization,  and  on  the  borders  of  the  Avilderness, 
still  leading  a  hunter's  life,  though  now  in  his  eighty-fifth 
year.  He  had  but  recently  returned  from  a  hunting  and  trap- 
ping expedition,  and  had  brought  nearly  sixty  beaver  skins  as 
trophies  of  his  skill.  The  old  man  was  still  erect  in  form, 
strong  in  limb,  and  unflinching  in  spirit ;  and  as  he  stood  on 
the  river  bank,  watching  the  departure  of  an  expedition  des- 
tined to  traverse  the  wilderness  to  the  very  shores  of  the 
Pacific,  very  probably  felt  a  throb  of  his  old  pioneer  spirit, 
impelling  him  to  shoulder  his  rifle  and  join  the  adventurous 
band.  Boon  flourished  several  years  after  this  meeting,  in  a 
vigorous  old  age,  the  Nestor  of  hunters  and  backwoodmen ; 
and  died,  full  of  sylvan  honor  and  renown,  in  1818,  in  his 
ninety-second  year. 

The  next  morning  early,  as  the  party  were  yet  encamped  at 
the  mouth  of  a  small  stream,  they  were  visited  by  another  of 
these  heroes  of  the  wilderness,  one  John  Colter,  who  had 
accompanied  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  their  memorable  expedition. 
He  had  recently  made  one  of  those  vast  internal  voyages  so 
eharacteristic  of  this  fearless  class  of  men,  and  of  the  immense 


JOHN    COLTER. 


15/ 


ng  in  a 
the  lead 
ters  are 
p  of  the 
mighty 
al  floods 
equence, 

try. 

the  boats 
d  by  the 
iel  Boon, 
pt  in  the 
ilderness, 
ighty-fifth 
and  trap- 
Ir  skins  as 
in  form, 
stood  on 
ition  des- 

es  of  the 

* 

cor  spirit, 
venturous 
eting,  in  a 
voodmen ; 
8,  in  his 

camped  at 
mother  of 
who  had 
ixpedition. 
oyages  so 
immense 


regions  over  which  they  hold  their  lonely  wand 
come  from  tiie 
small  canoe 


wand 
issouri  to  M.  Louis  in  a 
This  distance  of  three  thousand  miles  he  had 


accomplished  in  thirty  days.  Colter  kept  with  the  j)arty  all 
the  morning.  He  had  many  particulars  to  give  them  concern- 
ing the  Blackfeet  Indians,  a  restless  and  predatory  tribe,  who 
had  conceived  an  implacable  hostility  to  the  white  men,  in 
consequence  of  one  of  their  warriors  having  l)een  killed  hy 
Captain  Lewis,  while  attempting  to  steal  horses.  Through  the 
country  infested  by  these  savages  the  expedition  would  have  to 
proceed,  and  Colter  was  urgvnt  in  reiterating  the  precautious 
that  ought  to  be  observed  respecting  them,  lie  had  himself 
experienced  their  vindictive  cruelty,  and  his  story  deserves 
particular  citation,  as  showing  the  hairbreadth  adventures  to 
which  these  solitary  rovers  of  the  wilderness  are  exposed. 

Colter,  with  the  hardihood  of  a  regular  trapper,  had  cast 
himself  loose  from  the  party  of  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  wilderness,  and  had  remained  to  trap  beaver  alone 
on  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri.     Here  he  fell  in  with 
another  lonely  trapper,  like  himself,  named  Potts,  and  they 
agreed  to  keep  together.     They  were  in  the  very  region  <jf 
the  terrible  Blackfeet,  at  that  time  thirsting  to  revenge  the 
death  of  their  companion,  and  knew  that  they  had  to  expect 
no  mercy  at  their  hands.     They  were  obliged  to  keep  con- 
cealed all  day  in  the  Avoody  margins  of  the  rivers,  setting  their 
traps  after  nightfall,  and  taking  them  up  before  daybreak.     It 
was  running  a  fearful  risk  for  the  sake  of  a  iew  beaver  skins  ; 
but  such  is  the  life  of  the  trapper. 

They  were  on  a  branch  of  the  Missouri  called  Jefferson's 
Fork,  and  had  set  their  traps  at  night,  about  six  miles  up  a 
small  river  that  emptied  into  the  fork.  Early  in  the  morning 
they  ascended  the  river  in  a  canoe,  to  examine  the  traps. 


156 


AN    AFFAIR    WITH    THE    DLA(  KFKET. 


The  banks  on  each  side  were  high  and  perpendicular,  and 
cast  a  shade  over  the  stn-arn.  As  they  were  softly  paddling 
along,  they  heard  tlie  trampling  of  many  leet  upon  the  banks. 
Colter  immediately  gave  the  alarm  of  "  Indians !"  and  was  for 
instant  retreat.  Potts  scofl'ed  at  liim  for  being  frightened  by 
the  trampling  of  a  herd  of  bufl'aloes.  Colter  cheeked  his 
uneasiness  and  paddled  forward.  They  had  not  gone  nnich 
further  wlien  frightful  whoops  and  yells  burst  forth  from  each 
side  of  the  river,  and  several  hundred  Indians  appear<'d  on 
either  bank.  Signs  were  made  to  the  unfortunate  trappers  to 
come  on  shore.  They  were  obliged  to  comply.  Hefore  they 
coidd  get  out  of  their  canoe,  a  savage  seized  the  rifle  btilong- 
ing  to  Potts.  Coher  sprang  on  shore,  wrested  the  weapon 
from  the  hands  of  the  Indian,  and  restored  it  to  his  companion, 
who  was  still  in  the  canoe,  and  immediately  pushed  into  the 
stream.  There  was  the  sharp  twang  of  a  bow,  and  Potts 
cried  out  that  he  was  wounded.  Colter  urged  him  to  come  on 
shore  and  submit,  as  his  oidy  chance  for  life  ;  but  tlie  other 
knew  there  was  no  prospect  of  mercy,  and  determined  to  die 
game.  Levelling  his  rifle,  he  shot  one  of  the  savages  dead  on 
the  spot.  The  next  moment  he  fell  himself,  pierced  with 
innumerable  arrows. 

The  vengeance  of  the  savages  now  turned  upon  Colter. 
He  was  stripped  naked,  and,  having  some  knowledge  of  the 
Blackfoot  language,  overheard  a  consultation  as  to  the  mode 
of  dispatching  him,  so  as  to  derive  the  greatest  amusement 
from  his  death.  Some  were  for  setting  him  up  as  a  mark,  and 
havhig  a  trial  of  skill  at  his  expense.  The  chief,  however, 
was  for  nobler  sport.  He  seized  Colter  by  the  shoulder,  and 
demanded  if  he  could  run  fast.  The  unfortunate  trapper  was 
too  well  acquainted  with  Indian  customs  not  to  comprehend 
the  drift  of  the  question.     He  knew  he  wae  1o  run  for  his  life, 


A    SCAMPER    FOR    LIFK. 


157 


lar,  and 
imUUing 
I  bunks, 
was  lor 
?nc(l  by 
keel   liis 
ke  much 
oin  oath 
(arod  on 
ippers  10 
fore  they 
i  bt'long- 
weapon 
mpanion, 
into  the 
nd  Potts 
come  on 
lie  other 
d  to  die 
dead  on 
ed  with 

Coher. 
re  of  the 
|he  mode 
lusement 
lark,  and 
however, 
[ider,  and 
)per  was 
liprehend 

his  life. 


to  furnish  a  kind  of  human  hunt  to  Ids  prrsecutors.     Tho\ii;li 
in  reality  he  was  noted  among  his  brother  hunlirs  for  swift- 
ness of  foot,  he  assured  the   chief  that  \iv,  was  a  very  bad 
runner.     His    stratagem   gained   him    some    vantage    ground. 
lie  was  led  by  the  chief  into  the  prairie,  about  four  hundred 
yards  from  the  main  body  of  savages,  and  then  turned  loose, 
to  save  himself  if  he  could.     A  tremendous  yell  let  him  know 
that  the   whole   pack  of  bloodhounds   were  oil*  in    full    ( ry. 
Colter  (lew,  rather  than  ran  ;  ho  was  astonished  at  his  own 
speed ;  but  he  had  six  miles  of  prairie  to  traverse  before  he 
should  reach  the  Jeflerson  fork  of  the  Missouri ;  how  could 
he  hope  to  hold  out  such  a  distance  with  the  fearful  odds  of 
several  hundred  to  one  against  him !     The  plain  too,  aboimded 
with  the  prickly  pear,  which  wounded  his  naked  feet.     Still 
he  fled  on,  dreading  each  moment  to  hear  the  twang  of  a  bow, 
and  to  feel  an  arrow  quivering  at  his  heart.     lie  did  not  tneu 
dare  to  look  round,  lest  he  should  lose  an  inch  of  that  distance 
on  which  his  life  depended.     He  had  ran  nearly  half  way 
across  the  plain  when  the  sound  of  pursuit  grew  somewhat 
fainter,  and  he  ventured  to  turn  his  head.     The  mam  bot»y  oi 
his  pursuers  were  a  considerable  distance  behind ;  several  of 
the  faster  runners  were  scattered  in  the  advance  ;  while  a 
swift-footed  warrior,  armed  with  a  spear,  was  not  more  than  a 
hundred  yards  behind  him. 

Inspired  with  new  hope,  Colter  redoubled  his  exertions,  but 
strained  himself  to  such  a  degree,  that  the  blood  gushed  from 
his  mouth  and  nostrils,  and  streamed  down  his  breast.  He 
arrived  within  a  mile  of  the  river.  The  sound  of  footsteps 
gathered  upon  him.  A  glance  behind  showed  his  pursuer 
within  twenty  yards,  and  preparing  to  launch  his  spear. 
Stopping  short,  he  turned  round  and  spread  out  his  arms. 

The  savage,  confounded  by  this  sudden  action,  attempted  %o 

14 


i 


158 


A    SWIM    FOR    LIFE. 


Stop  and  to  hurl  his  spear,  but  fell  in  the  very  act.  His  spear 
stuck  in  the  ground,  and  the  sliaft  broke  in  his  hand.  Colter 
plucked  up  the  pointed  part,  pinned  the  savage  to  the  earth, 
and  continued  his  flight.  The  Indians,  as  they  arrived  at 
theii  slaughtered  companion,  stopped  to  howl  over  him.  Col- 
ter made  the  most  of  this  precious  delay,  gained  the  skirt 
of  cotton-wood  bordering  the  river,  dashed  through  it,  and 
plunged  into  the  stream.  He  swam  to  a  neighboring  island, 
against  the  upper  end  of  which  the  driftwood  had  lodged  in 
such  quantities  as  to  form  a  natural  raft ;  under  this  he  dived, 
and  swam  below  water  until  he  succeeded  in  getting  a  breath- 
ing place  between  the  floating  trunks  of  trees,  whose  branches 
and  bushes  formed  a  covert  several  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
water.  He  had  scarcely  drawn  breath  after  all  his  toils,  when 
he  heard  his  pursuers  on  the  river  bank,  whooping  and  yelling 
like  so  many  fiends.  They  plunged  in  the  river,  and  swam  to 
the  raft.  The  heart  of  Colter  almost  died  within  him  as  he 
saw  them,  through  the  chinks  of  his  concealment,  passing  and 
repassing,  and  seeking  for  him  in  all  directions.  They  at 
length  gave  up  the  search,  and  he  began  to  rejoice  in  his 
escape,  when  the  idea  presented  itself  that  they  might  set  the 
raft  on  fire.  Here  was  a  new  source  of  horrible  apprehen- 
sion, in  which  he  remained  imtil  night  fall.  Fortunately,  the 
idea  did  not  suggest  itself  to  the  Indians.  As  soon  as  it  was 
dark,  finding  by  the  silence  around  that  his  pursuers  had  de- 
parted. Colter  dived  again,  and  came  up  beyond  the  raft.  He 
then  swam  silently  down  the  river  for  a  considerable  distance, 
when  he  landed,  and  kept  on  all  night,  to  get  as  far  off"  as  pos- 
sible from  this  dangerous  neighborhood. 

By  daybreak  he  had  gained  suflicient  distance  to  relieve 
him  from  the  terrors  of  his  savage  foes ;  but  now  new  sources 
of  inquietude  presented  themselves.     He  was  naked  and  alone, 


ill  i<.  I 


PERILS    OF    THE    PRAIRIES. 


159 


s  spear 
Colter 
B  earth, 
ived  at 
.     Col- 
16   skirt 
it,  and 
r  island, 
dged  in 
e  dived, 
t  breath- 
iranches 
;1  of  the 
Is,  when 
1  yelling 
swam  to 
n  as  he 
sing  and 
They  at 
e  in  his 
t  set  the 
)prehen- 
tely,  the 
IS  it  was 
had  de- 
lft.    He 
listance, 
as  pos- 

relieve 
sources 
id  alone. 


in  the  midst  of  an  unbounded  wilderness  ;  his  only  chance  was 
to  reach  a  trading  post  of  the  Missouri  company,  situated  on  a 
branch  of  the  Yellowstone  river.  Even  should  he  elude  his 
pursuers,  days  must  elapse  before  he  could  reach  this  post, 
during  which  he  must  traverse  immense  prairies  destitute  of 
shade,  his  naked  body  exposed  to  the  burning  heat  of  the  sun 
by  day,  and  the  dews  and  chills  of  the  night  season ;  and  his 
feet  lacerated  by  the  thorns  of  the  prickly  pear.  Though  he 
might  see  game  in  abundance  around  him,  he  had  no  means 
of- killing  any  for  his  sustenance,  and  must  depend  for  food 
upon  the  roots  of  the  earth.  In  defiance  of  these  difficulties 
he  pushed  resolutely  forward,  guiding  himself  in  his  trackless 
course  by  those  signs  and  indications  known  only  to  Indians 
and  backvvoodmen ;  and  after  braving  dangers  and  hardships 
enough  to  break  down  any  spirit  but  that  of  a  western  pioneer, 
arrived  safe  at  the  solitary  post  in  question.* 

Such  is  a  sample  of  the  rugged  experience  which  Colter 
had  to  relate  of  savage  life  ;  yet,  with  all  these  perils  and 
terrors  fresh  in  his  recollection,  he  could  not  see  the  present 
band  on  their  way  to  those  regions  of  danger  and  adventure, 
without  feeling  a  vehement  impulse  to  join  them.  A  western 
trapper  is  like  a  sailor ;  past  hazards  only  stimulate  him  to 
further  risks.  The  vast  prairie  is  to  the  one  what  the  ocean 
is  to  the  other,  a  boundless  field  of  enterprise  and  exploit. 
However  he  may  have  sufTored  in  his  last  cruise,  he  is  always 
ready  to  join  a  new  expedition  ;  and  the  more  adventurous  its 
nature,  the  more  attractive  is  it  to  his  vagrant  spirit. 

Nothing  seems  to  have  kept  Colter  from  continuing  with 
the  party  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  but  the  circumstance  of 
his  having  recently  married.     All  the  morning  he  kept  with 

♦  Bradbury.    Travels  in  America,  p.  17. 


160 


ARRIVAL    AT    FORT    OSAGE. 


them,  balancing  in  his  mind  the  charms  of  his  bride  against 
those  of  the  Rocky  mountains;  the  former,  however,  pre- 
vailed, and  after  a  march  of  several  miles,  he  took  a  reluctant 
leave  of  the  travellers,  and  turned  his  face  homeward 

Continuing  their  progress  up  the  Missouri,  the  party  en- 
camped on  the  evening  of  the  21st  of  March,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  a  little  frontier  village  of  French  Creoles.  Here 
Pierre  Dorion  met  with  some  of  his  old  comrades,  with  whom 
he  had  a  long  gossip,  and  returned  to  the  camp  with  rumors 
of  bloody  feuds  between  the  Osages  and  the  loways,  or 
Ayaways,  Potowatomies,  Sioux,  and  Sawkees.  Blood  had 
already  been  shed,  and  scalps  been  taken.  A  war  party, 
three  hundred  strong,  were  prowling  in  the  neighborhood ; 
others  might  be  met  with  higher  up  the  river ;  it  behooved  the 
travellers,  therefore,  to  be  upon  their  guard  against  robbery  or 
surprise,  for  an  Indian  war  party  on  the  march  is  prone  to 
acts  of  outrage. 

In  consequence  of  this  report,  which  was  subsequently 
confirmed  by  further  intelligence,  a  guard  was  kept  up  at 
night  round  the  encampment,  and  they  all  slept  on  their  arms. 
As  they  were  sixteen  in  number,  and  well  supplied  with 
weapons  and  ammunition,  they  trusted  to  be  able  to  give  any 
marauding  party  a  warm  reception.  Nothing  occurred,  how- 
ever, to  molest  them  on  their  voyage,  and  on  the  8th  of  April 
they  canie  in  sight  of  fort  Osage.  On  their  approach  the 
flag  was  hoisted  on  the  fort,  and  they  saluted  it  by  a  dis- 
charge of  fire-arms.  Within  a  short  distance  of  the  fort  was 
an  Osage  village,  the  inhabitants  of  which,  men,  women,  and 
children,  thronged  down  to  the  water  side  to  witness  their 
landing.  One  of  the  first  persons  they  met  on  the  river  bank 
was  Mr.  Crooks,  who  had  come  down  in  a  boat,  with  nine 
men,  from  the  winter  encampment  at  Nodowa,  to  meet  them. 


A    CONJUGAL    CUDGELLING. 


161 


'j  ': 


They  remained  at  fort  Osage  a  part  of  three  days,  during 
which  they  were  hospitably  entertained  at  the  garrison  by 
Lieutenant  Brownson,  who  held  a  temporary  command.  They 
were  regaled  also  with  a  war-feast  at  the  village  ;  the  Osage 
warriors  having  returned  from  a  successful  foray  against  the 
loways,  in  which  they  had  taken  seven  scalps.  These  were 
paraded  on  poles  about  the  village,  followed  by  the  warriors 
decke''  out  in  all  their  savage  ornaments,  and  hideously 
painted  as  if  for  battle. 

By  the  Osage  warriors,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were 
again  warned  to  be  on  their  guard  in  ascending  the  river,  as 
the  Sioux  tribe  meant  to  lay  in  wait  and  attack  them. 

On  the  10th  of  April  they  again  embarked,  their  party 
being  now  augmented  to  twenty-six,  by  the  addition  of  Mr. 
Crooks  and  his  boat's  crew.  They  had  not  proceeded  far, 
however,  when  there  was  a  great  outcry  from  one  of  the 
boats ;  it  was  occasioned  by  a  little  domestic  discipline  in  the 
Dorion  family.  Th«^  squaw  of  the  worthy  interpreter,  it  ap- 
peared, had  been  so  delighted  with  the  scalp-dance,  and  other 
festivities  of  the  Osage  village,  that  she  had  taken  a  strong 
inclination  to  remain  there.  This  had  been  as  strongly  op- 
posed by  her  liege  lord,  who  had  compelled  her  to  embark. 
The  good  dame  had  remained  sulky  ever  since,  whereupon 
Pierre,  seeing  no  other  mode  of  exorcising  the  evil  spirit  out 
of  her,  and  being  perhaps  a  little  inspired  by  whiskey,  had 
resorted  to  the  Indian  remedy  of  the  cudgel,  and,  before  his 
neighbors  could  interfere,  had  belabored  her  so  soundly,  that 
there  is  no  record  of  her  having  shown  any  refractory  symp- 
toms throughout  the  remainder  of  the  expedition. 

For  a  week  they  continued  their  voyage,  exposed  to  almost 

incessant  rains.     The  bodies  of  drowned  buffaloes  floated  past 

them  in  vast  numbers ;  many  had  drifted  upon  the  shore,  or 

14* 


i 

if 

;|j; 

:^fi 

i^ 

' 

i 

162 


SUBLIMITY    OF    A    TURKEY-BUZZARD. 


against  the  upper  end?  of  the  rafts  and  islands.  These  had 
attracted  great  flights  of  turkey-buzzards  ;  some  were  banquet- 
ing on  the  carcasses,  others  were  soaring  far  aloft  in  the  sky, 
and  others  were  perched  on  the  trees,  with  their  backs  to  the 
sun,  and  their  wings  stretched  out  to  dry,  like  so  many  vessels 
in  harbor,  spreading  their  sails  after  a  shower. 

The  turkey-buzzard  (vultur  aura,  or  golden  vulture),  when 
on  the  wing,  is  one  of  the  most  specious  and  imposing  of 
birds.  Its  flight  in  the  upper  regions  of  the  air  is  really  sub- 
lime, extending  its  immense  wings,  and  wheeling  slowly  and 
majestically  to  and  fro,  seemingly  without  exerting  a  muscle 
or  fluttering  a  feather,  but  moving  by  mere  volition,  and  sailing 
on  the  bosom  of  the  air,  as  a  ship  upon  the  ocean.  Usurping 
the  empyreal  realm  of  the  eagle,  he  assumes  for  a  time  the 
])on  and  dignity  of  that  majestic  bird,  and  often  is  mistaken 
fur  him  by  ignorant  crawlers  upon  earth.  It  is  only  when  he 
descends  from  the  clouds  to  pounce  upon  carrion  that  he 
betrays  his  low  propensities,  and  reveals  his  caitiff  character. 
Near  at  hand  he  is  a  disgusting  bird,  ragged  in  plumage, 
base  in  aspect,  and  of  loathsome  odor. 

On  the  17th  of  April  Mr.  Hunt  arrived  with  his  party  at  the 
station  near  the  Nodowa  river,  where  the  main  body  had  been 
quartered  during  the  winter. 


RETURN    OF    SPRING. 


163 


CHAPTER  XVI, 


Return  op  spring — appearance  of  snakes — great  flights  of  wild 

PIGEONS — renewal     OP     THE     VOYAGE NIGHT     ENCAMPMENTS — PlATTE 

RIVER CEREMONIALS    ON    PASSING    IT SIGNS    OF    InDIAN  WAR  PARTIES 

MAGNIFICENT    PROSPECT    AT  PaPILLION  CREEK — DESERTION  OF  TWO  HUNT- 
ERS  AN    IRRUPTION   INTO    THE    CAMP  OF  InDIAN    DESPERADOES VILLAGE 

OF     THE     OmAHAS — ANECDOTES     OF    THE    TRIBE — FEUDAL    WARS    OF    THE 

Indians — story  of  Blackbird,  the  famous  Omaha  chief. 

The  weather  continued  rainy  and  ungeniai  for  some  days 
after  Mr.  Hunt's  return  to  Nodovva ;  yet  spring  was  rapidly 
advancing,  and  vegetation  was  putting  forth  with  all  its  early 
freshness  and  beauty.  The  snakes  began  to  recover  from 
their  torpor  and  crawl  forth  into  day,  and  the  neighborhood  of 
the  wintering;  house  seems  to  have  been  much  infested  with 
them.  Mr.  Bradbury,  in  the  course  of  his  botanical  researches, 
found  a  surprising  number  in  a  half  torpid  state,  under  flat 
stones  upon  the  banks  which  overhung  the  cantonment,  and 
narrowly  escaped  being  struck  by  a  rattlesnake,  which  darted 
at  him  from  a  cleft  in  the  rock,  but  fortunately  gave  him  warn- 
ing by  its  rattle. 

The  pigeons  too  were  filling  the  woods  in  vast  migratory 
flocks.  It  is  almost  incredible  to  describe  the  prodigious 
flights  of  these  birds  in  the  western  wildernesses.  They 
appear  absolutely  in  clouds,  and  move  with  astonishing 
velocity,  their  wings  making  a  whistling  sound  as  they  fly. 


If 


ii  -•  ■  ■'  i 


164 


GREAT    FLIGHT    OF    PIGEONS. 


The  rapid  evolutions  of  these  flocks,  wheeling  and  shifting 
suddenly  as  if  with  one  mind  and  one  impulse ;  the  flashing 
changes  of  colour  they  present,  as  their  backs,  their  breasts, 
or  the  under  part  of  their  wings  are  turned  to  the  spectator, 
are  singidarly  pleasing.  When  they  alight,  if  on  the  groimd, 
they  cover  whole  acres  at  a  time  ;  if  upon  trees,  the  branches 
often  break  beneath  their  weight.  If  suddenly  startled  while 
feeding  in  the  midst  of  a  forest,  the  noise  they  make  in  getting 
on  the  wing  is  like  the  roar  of  a  cataract  or  the  sound  of  dis- 
tant thunder. 

A  flight  of  this  kind,  like  an  Egyptian  flight  of  locusts, 
devours  every  thing  that  serves  for  its  food  as  it  passes  along. 
So  grt  at  were  the  numbers  in  the  vicinity  of  the  camp  that 
Mr.  Bradbury,  in  the  course  of  a  morning's  excursion,  shot 
nearly  three  hundred  with  a  fowlingpiece.  He  gives  a  curi- 
ous, though  apparently  a  faithful,  account  of  the  kind  of  disci- 
pline observed  in  these  immense  flocks,  so  that  each  may  have 
a  chance  of  picking  up  food.  As  the  front  ranks  must  meet 
with  the  greatest  abundance,  and  the  rear  ranks  must  have 
scanty  pickings,  the  instant  a  rank  finds  itself  the  hindmost,  it 
rises  in  the  air,  flies  over  the  whole  flock,  and  takes  its  place 
in  the  advance.  The  next  rank  follows  in  its  course,  and 
thus  the  last  is  continually  becoming  first,  and  all  by  turns 
have  a  front  place  at  the  banquet. 

The  rains  having  at  length  subsided,  Mr.  Hunt  broke  up 
the  encampment  and  resumed  his  course  up  the  Missouri. 

The  party  now  consisted  of  nearly  sixty  persons :  of  whom 
five  were  partners ;  one,  John  Reed,  was  a  clerk ;  forty  were 
Canadian  "  voyageurs,"  or  "  engages"  and  there  were  sev- 
eral hunters.  They  embarked  in  four  boats,  one  of  which 
was  of  a  large  size,  mounting  a  swivel  and  two  howitzers. 
All  were  furnished  with  masts  and  sails,  to  be  used  when  the 


MOUTH    OF    THE    NEBRASKA. 


165 


wind  was  sufficiently  favorable  and  strong  to  overpotver  the 
current  of  the  river.  Such  was  the  case  for  the  first  four  or 
five  days,  when  they  were  wafted  steadily  up  the  stream  by  a 
strong  southeaster. 

Their  encampments  at  night  were  often  pleasant  and  pic- 
turesque :  on  some  beautiful  bank,  beneath  spreading  trees, 
which  afforded  them  shelter  and  fuel.  The  tents  were  pitch- 
ed, the  fires  made,  and  the  meals  prepared  by  the  voyageurs, 
and  many  a  story  was  told  and  joke  passed,  and  song  sung, 
round  the  evening  fire.  All,  however,  were  asleep  at  an  early 
hour.  Some  under  the  tents,  others  wrapped  in  blankets  be- 
fore the  fire,  or  beneath  the  trees  ;  and  some  few  in  the  boats 
and  canoes. 

On  the  28th,  they  breakfasted  on  one  of  the  islands  which 
lie  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  river ;  the  largest 
tributary  of  the  Missouri,  and  about  six  hundred  miles  abov„ 
its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  This  broad  but  shallow 
stream  flows  for  an  immense  distance  through  a  wide  and  ver- 
dant valley,  scooped  out  of  boundless  prairies.  It  draws  its 
main  supplies,  by  several  forks  or  branches,  from  the  Rocky 
mountains.  The  mouth  of  this  river  is  established  as  the 
dividing  point  between  the  upper  and  lower  Missouri ;  and  the 
earlier  voyagers,  in  their  toilsome  ascent,  before  the  introduc- 
tion of  steam-boats,  considered  one  half  of  their  labors  accom- 
plished when  they  reached  this  place.  Tlie  passing  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Nebraska,  therefore,  was  equivalent  among  boat- 
men to  the  crossing  of  the  line  among  sailors,  and  was  cele- 
brated with  like  ceremonials  of  a  rough  and  waggish  nature, 
practised  upon  the  uninitiated  ;  among  which  was  the  old  nau- 
tical joke  of  shaving.  The  river  deities,  however,  like  those 
of  the  sea,  were  to  be  propitiated  by  a  bribe,  and  the  infliction 
of  these  rude  honors  to  be  parried  by  a  treat  to  the  adepts. 


;f 

■  1 

J 

^ 

.  i;      -I 


I  i: 

■si  a 


1  ,     >;■ 


■1        i; 


166 


SIGNS    OF    INDIAN    WAR    PARTIES. 


At  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska  new  signs  were  met  with  ol 
war  parties  which  had  recently  been  in  the  vicinity.  There 
was  the  frame  of  a  skin  canoe,  in  which  the  warriors  had  trav- 
ersed the  river.  At  night,  also,  the  lurid  reflection  of  immense 
fires  hung  in  the  sky,  showing  the  conflagration  of  great  tracts 
of  the  prairies.  Such  fires  not  being  made  by  hunters  so  late 
in  the  season,  it  was  supposed  they  were  caused  by  some 
wandering  war  parties.  These  often  take  the  precaution  to 
set  the  prairies  on  fire  behind  them  to  conceal  their  traces  from 
their  enemies.  This  is  chiefly  done  when  the  party  has  been 
unsuccessful  and  is  on  the  retreat,  and  apprehensive  of  pursuit. 
At  such  time  it  is  not  safe  even  for  friends  to  fall  in  with  them, 
as  they  are  apt  to  be  in  savage  humor,  and  disposed  to  vent 
their  spleen  in  capricious  outrage.  These  signs,  therefore,  of 
a  band  of  marauders  on  the  prowl,  called  for  some  degree  of 
vigilance  on  the  part  of  the  travellers. 

After  passing  the  Nebraska,  the  party  halted  for  part  of  two 
days  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  a  little  above  Papillion  creek, 
to  supply  themselves  with  a  stock  of  oars  and  poles  from  the 
tough  wood  of  the  ash,  which  is  not  met  with  higher  up  the 
Missouri.  While  the  voyageurs  were  thus  occupied,  the  nat- 
uralists rambled  over  the  adjacent  country  to  collect  plants. 
From  the  summit  of  a  range  of  bluflTs  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  they  had  one 
of  those  vast  and  magnificent  prospects  which  sometimes 
unfold  themselves  in  these  boundless  regions.  Below  them 
was  the  valley  of  the  Missouri,  about  seven  miles  in  breadth, 
clad  in  the  fresh  verdure  of  spring ;  enamelled  with  flowers 
and  interspersed  with  clumps  and  groves  of  noble  trees,  be- 
tween which  the  mighty  river  poured  its  turbulent  and  turbid 
stream.  The  interior  of  the  country  presented  a  singular 
scene  ;  the  immense  waste  being  broke][^  up  by  innumerable 


t:: 


DESERTION    OF    TWO    HUNTERS. 


167 


t  with  ol 
There 
had  trav- 
immense 
eat  tracts 
rs  so  late 
by  some 
aution  to 
ices  from 
has  been 
if  pursuit, 
ith  them, 
d  to  vent 
refore,  of 
legree  of 

Tt  of  two 
)n  creek, 
from  the 
r  up  the 
,  the  nat- 
;t  plants. 
e  side  of 
r  had  one 
ometimes 
ow  them 
I  breadth, 
h  flowers 
trees,  be- 
ind  turbid 
singular 
lumerable 


green  hills,  not  above  eighty  feet  in  height,  but  extremely 
steep,  and  acutely  pointed  at  their  summits.  A  long  line  of 
bluffs  extended  for  upwards  of  thirty  miles,  parallel  to  the 
Missouri,  with  a  shallow  lake  stretching  along  their  base, 
which  had  evidently  once  formed  a  bed  of  the  river.  The 
surface  of  this  lake  was  covered  with  aquatic  plants,  on  the 
broad  leaves  of  which  numbers  of  water  snakes,  drawn  forth 
by  the  genial  v/armth  of  spring,  were  basking  in  the  sunshine. 

On  the  2(1  of  May,  at  the  usual  hour  of  embarking,  the  camp 
was  thrown  into  some  confusion  by  two  of  the  himters,  named 
Harrington,  expressing  their  intention  to  abandon  the  expe- 
dition and  return  home.  One  of  these  had  joined  the  party  in 
the  preceding  autumn,  having  been  himting  for  two  years  on 
the  Missouri :  the  other  had  engaged  at  St.  Louis,  in  the  fol- 
lowing March,  and  had  come  up  from  thence  with  Mr.  Hunt. 
He  now  declared  that  he  had  enlisted  merely  for  the  purpose 
of  following  his  brother  and  persuading  him  to  return  ;  having 
been  enjoined  to  do  so  by  his  mother,  whose  anxiety  had  been 
awakened  by  the  idea  of  his  going  on  such  a  wild  and  distant 
expedition. 

The  loss  of  two  stark  hunters  and  prime  riflemen  was  a 
serious  affair  to  the  party,  for  they  were  approaching  the 
region  where  they  might  expect  hostilities  from  the  Sioux  ; 
indeed,  throughout  the  whole  of  their  perilous  journey,  the 
services  of  such  men  would  be  all  important,  for  little  reliance 
was  to  be  placed  upon  the  valor  of  the  Canadians  in  case  of 
attack.  Mr.  Hunt  endeavored  by  arguments,  expostulations, 
and  entreaties,  to  shake  the  determination  of  the  two  brothers. 
He  represented  to  them  that  they  were  between  six  and  seven 
hundred  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri ;  that  they 
would  have  four  hundred  miles  to  go  before  they  could  reach 
the  habitation  of  a  white  man,  throughout  which  they  would  be 


■?i 


KiH 


INIM  AN    iii;'*n:u  \inti;«. 


rspONrtl    (o  (ill    KimiIm  «i|    iisKs  .    niih<>  Ii«>  ilrrl.iirtl.  li    llit'V  |h'| 


Nis 


Inl 


III     M 


)>:ill.l 


Olllll!'      Mini     Mill 


i    Itii'iiKiiD'    (lirli    liillli,  III'  woiilil 


not  luiilisli  llit'ill  Willi  :i  MiH'lo  loiiiiil  nl    .'iiiiiillllillliui         Ml   wiri 
III  viilii  .    llirv  oli'<liii:il<'l\    |iri'ii'<tt'i|  in  lliiii   ii<'<oliitiii|i  ,    wlii'ir 
upon.   Ml      Miinl.    |i;nll>    in*  ilnl   liy   inilirjiiilinn,   |t!iillv   Itv    llii< 
|iiilit  V    kI'   ilrtiMiiii)',    Dllins    lioni    ilrsf'iliini,    piil    Iiim    llirnil    iii 
i'\r»  nlioii,  mill    It'll    llu'in   lo  liinl    llnii   Wiiy  I'miU    lo  llir  f.cHlc 
inciils  willioiit,  ,i'*    li«>   Niipjutsctl,  ;i    siiii'lc  luillt'l  or    :i  tlitiifM"  o| 


niwih'i 


I 

'I'lic  I»o!i1m  iimv  I'onliiiiinl  tlicii  slow  jinil  toiUonir  roiiiM"  tor 

sr\«'i;il  tlavN.  !i(;;iiii'<l  (lii'  niiicnl  ol  tlir  in  or  'I'lio  liilo  sijjiin 
ol  voiiniin^  \v;ii  iciilics  rniisi'il  n  vifitliiiit  walili  to  l)i<  Kopl  ii|< 
;il  iiij'.lil  « lion  llio  news  oii«-!iiii|m'i1  on  slioro  .  iioi  wjii  litis 
\  l)',il:iiiri<  su|H<iiliioiiN  ,  toi  on  llio  i)i;<,lil  ol  llio  Ninrnlli  insliinl, 
iIu'Io  was  ;i  will!  ;uiil  Ii'imIiiI  voII,  tiiiil  rlrvcii  Sioux  wiimois, 
stiiiU   iiiiUi'il,  >Mlli   loinaliiiwKs   III   llini'  liMiitIs,  riislinl   into  tlir 


«.;iinp 


ri 


n'V    Hi 


ro   insliinllv    siiiioinulcil   :iinl    soi/nl,   w  lion' 


upon  llli'iv  U'.uli'i  »;illi'il  oil!  to  Ills  lollowi'is  to  ilcMsl  iVoiii  aiiv 
violnu'o.  mill  picU'iuli'il  to  ho  pcilcrllv  piuMlir  in  Ins  iiilcii 
lions  ll  piovi'il.  liow  over,  llial  llioy  woio  si  purl  ol  llio  wiir 
p:iitv,  llio  sKcli'toii  ol  u  lioso  omioo  luitl  Itoon  scon  ;il  iho 
iiioulli  ol  tlio  iivoi  IM;itlo,  mill  llio  vollorlioii  ol  wlioso  t'lxvn 
liail  lici'ii  ilosiiit'il  HI  llio  mr  'I'lioy  luul  lioon  ilisappoinloil  or 
ilol'oaloil  111  llii'ii  ItM.iy.  mul  in  iIkmi-  lai-o  ami  inorlilioation 
iIk'si'  olovon  wamois  liail  "  iIcvoIimI  llu'ir  olollirs  to  llio  iiioili- 
iiiio  "  This  IS  a  ilospoialo  iirt  ol  liiiliaii  luavos  w  lion  loilod 
111  war.  anil  in  ilvo;nl  ot  sooll's  ami  snoors.  In  siioli  «aso  tlioy 
liOiiuMiim's  lliiou  oll'ilicir  olotlioN  ami  oniaiiii'Uts,  lU'volo  iIumii- 
n'lvos   to  llu'  (ivoat    Spirit,  ami   atti'inpt    soiiio  rooKloss  o\ploit 


Willi  wliuli   to  cover  llioir  ilissirai 


Woo  to   any  doloiiroli'ss 


parly  ol   wlnto  iiu'ii  llial  may  iIh'ii  fall  in  llioir  wav  ' 

JSui'li  was  llio  o\plaiialu>ii  i^ivcii  l>y  Piorro  Dorioii.  tlio  half- 


vii.i,.\(j|.:   «ir    rill':   o.mmiam. 


hi'( 


iIh'V  |m'| 

lit'  wnillil 
Ml   \vii-« 

,    ulicic 
Iv    l>v    llii" 

tlnnil    III 
III'  f.clllr 
I'llillf'.r  o| 

•tMllsr  loi 
Ifllc  si^MifH 
i<  K<<|il    Up 

«!l^  llils 
ll   llislMllI, 

« ;nri(»iN, 
I  into  titr 
I.   wlirn' 

Ikmii  ;iuv 

IIS     lllllMI 

I  ill*'  -.viiv 
Ml  ;il  llu- 
lONr  liir^ 
)OIiiI«mI  or 
I'liru'Mdon 
llir  iiu'ili- 
\V\\  loiltMl 
I'Hsr  llu-y 
Die  llu'ui- 

•iS     «<\|>|l)lt 

liiifclrss 
til.'  half- 


lirot'll  m((«r|trrN«i,  ol  llin  wild  iiiIiiiodii  imIo  ||i<<  <  iiiii|i  .  iiinl 
(In-  |i:iilv  \M'n>  f,M  rMiM|H<i!ih'<l  uln-ii  ii|i|tii/ri|  «•!  llir  '>jiii)>iii 
liiilV  liili>illloiiN  ul  IIh'  |tll.'HHir|M,  lliiil  iImv  \\i\r  joi  Mlinittinii 
iIk'iii  oil  ||i(<  n|M»l.  Ml  lliiiil,  linurvn.  ixnliil  Imi  iimiiuI 
llllMJriiilioil  mill  liiiiiiiiilMv,  mill  nnli'iiil  lli;il  lliry  sliuiilil  lir 
iMllvi  ynl  firiOMM  llir  nvn  in  oiir  ol  llir  ImiiiIm,  lliii';ilriiiii)> 
lliiMii,  liiMviMi'i,  Willi  rnltiiii  ili<!illi.  ll  ii^Miiii  rtiiii'lil  m  :m\ 
lioslilr   ml 

(»ii  llio  IDlli  oC  Miiy  llir  |i.iily  miivr.l  iil  ilii.  <  >iii.ili;i  (|iiu 
imiiiiriMl  Oiiiinvli.iw)  mII.i>m«,  iiImiiiI  i>i,.|iI  ImiiiiIii<iI  iiihI  l|iiil\ 
liilirs    filiiMi'  llii<    iiiniilli  ol    llir    Minmoiiii.  iiiiiI  riii'iiMi|M'il    in    ii, 

llll;'llllOlllOO(l,         Till'    Vlllil;-!'    XVlls     .Mlh|!||,.,l     IIIkIiT     11      lull     on     till' 

Itiiiik  oi  llii<  iivir,  mill  loiisiHli'il  ol  iilioiil  ri|>lily  IimI>;i-s 
Tlii'si'  wi'ii'  ol'  11  riniilm-  niiil  roiin  :i|  loiiii,  miil  iilmiil  msIim  n 
I'l'i'l  III  ili.iiiii'li'i  ,  lii'in;>  null'  Inils  ol  iIu'msi-iI  ImiIIiiIo  skins, 
M'wiil  to^rllin mill  slri'lrlii'il  on  Ion/;  poli'M,  inilinril  lou.ii.l, 
('Mill  oilier  HO  IIS  to  iiohh  iit  lllionl  liiiH  tlii'ii  liri;;lil  'I'lnis  ilii- 
inKi'iI  lo|ts  ol  llip  poll's  ilivi'ii;!'  Ill  Hiirli  n  iiiminii  lliiil,  il  llii  \ 
wi'ir  rovi'ii'il  Willi  skins  liki'  llic  lown  mils,  llir  Inil  woiiM 
Im'  sli.ipi'il  likr  .'III  lioin  j'.l.iss,  mill  pirsriil  tlii<  :ippi<m;iii(  r  of 
oiii'  roni<  invi'ili'il  on  llic  iiprx  ot    .'iiiollirr. 

Till'  !oriiis  ol  Inilimi  IoiI/m-s  ;iii'  woilliy  ol'  !illriilii)ii,  i;ir|i 
IiiIm'  liiivinj;  il  (liHin'iit  inoili'  ol  sli.ipm,.  mid  miMii/'itii',  llinii, 
so  dial  ll  IS  I'.'isy  (o  till  ini  si'iin;>  n  lod/M'  or  aii  I'lic'iiiipiiiini 
111  !i  diNljiiici',  to  wliiit  liilir  till'  inliiiliilmils  ImIoii;',  Tin-  r\lr. 
lior  ol'llii'  Oni.'ilia  lodfM's  have  orini  ;i  j.;iy  mid  raniil'iil  appr.-ir- 
iiiiri'.  Id'iii^  paiiilnl  with  iindiilatin;;  hands  ol  red  or  yillow  ,  or 
dci-orali'd  w  itli  riiih-  li;,;iiri's  ol'  horsis,  (h-rr,  and  hiiHalois,  mid 
with  hiiiiiaii  laces.  |imiiied  like  lull  iiiooiih,  lour  .iiid  live  (eel 
hroail. 

The  ()in;iliaN  wvrr  once  one  of  the  iiiiinrroiis  .ind   powerlid 

IiiIm's   of    (he    prairies,    vyiiij^    in    warlike    iiii;dit    :iiid    prowess 

I.') 


170 


CHIVALRY    IN    ITS   WILD   STATE. 


with  the  Sioux,  the  l^awncns,  the  Sauks,  the  Konzas,  and  the 
latans.  Their  wars  with  the  Sioux,  however,  had  thiiuied 
their  ranks,  and  the  smallpox  in  1802  had  swept  off  two 
thirds  of  tlieir  number.  At  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  visit  they 
still  boasted  about  two  hundred  warriors  and  hunters,  but  they 
are  now  fast  melting  away,  and  before  long,  will  be  numbered 
among  those  extinguished  nations  of  the  west  that  exist  but  in 
tradition. 

In  his  correspondence  with  Mr.  Astor,  from  tlus  point  of  his 
journey,  Mr.  Hunt  gives  a  sad  account  of  the  Indian  tribes 
bordering  on  the  river.  They  were  in  continual  war  with 
each  other,  and  their  wars  were  of  the  most  harassing  kind ; 
consisting,  not  merely  of  main  conflicts  and  expeditions  of 
moment,  involving  the  sackings,  burnings  and  massacres  of 
towns  and  villages,  but  of  individual  acts  of  treachery,  murder, 
and  cold-blooded  cruelty ;  or  of  vaunting  and  foolhardy  exploits 
of  single  warriors,  either  to  avenge  some  personal  wrong,  or 
gain  the  vainglorious  trophy  of  a  scalp.  The  lonely  hunter,  the 
wandering  wayfarer,  the  poor  squaw  cutting  wood  or  gathering 
corn,  was  liable  to  be  surprised  and  slaughtered.  In  this  way 
tribes  were  either  swept  away  at  once,  or  gradually  thinned 
out,  and  savage  life  was  surrounded  with  constant  horrors  and 
alarms.  That  the  race  of  red  men  should  diminish  from  year 
to  year,  and  so  few  should  survive  of  the  numerous  nations 
which  evidently  once  peopled  the  vast  regions  of  the  west, 
is  nothing  surprising ;  it  is  rather  matter  of  surprise  that  so 
many  should  survive ;  for  the  existence  of  a  savage  in  these 
parts  seems  little  better  than  a  prolonged  and  all  besetting 
death.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  caricature  of  the  boasted  romance  of 
feudal  times ;  chivalry  in  its  native  and  uncultured  state,  and 
knight-errantry  run  wild. 

In  their  more  prosperous  days,  the  Omahas  looked  upon 


BLACKBIRD,    TUB    OMAIIA    CHIEF. 


171 


thcmscIvcH  as  the  most  powerful  and  perfect  of  human  beings, 
and  considered  all  created  tilings  as  made  for  their  peculiar 
use  and  benefit.  It  is  this  tribe  of  whoso  chief,  the  fiinious 
Wash-ing-guh-sah-ba,  or  Blackbird,  such  savage  and  romantic 
stories  are  told.  He  had  died  about  ten  years  previous  to  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  but  his  name  was  still  mentioned 
with  awe  by  his  people.  He  was  one  of  the  first  among  the 
Indian  chiefs  on  the  Missouri  to  deal  with  the  white  traders, 
and  showed  great  sagacity  in  levying  his  royal  dues.  When 
a  trader  arrived  in  his  village,  he  caused  all  his  goods  to  be 
brought  into  his  lodge  and  opened.  From  these  he  selected 
whatever  suited  his  sovereign  pleasure ;  blankets,  tobacco, 
whiskey,  powder,  ball,  beads  and  red  paint ;  and  laid  the  arti- 
cles on  one  side,  without  deigning  to  give  any  compensation. 
Then  calling  to  him  his  herald  or  crier,  he  would  order  him 
to  mount  on  top  of  the  lodge  and  summon  all  the  tribe  to  bring 
in  their  peltries,  and  trade  with  the  white  man.  The  lodge 
would  soon  be  crowded  with  Indians  bringing  bear,  beaver, 
otter,  and  other  skins.  No  one  was  allowed  to  dispute  the 
prices  fixed  by  the  white  trader  upon  his  articles ;  who  took 
care  to  indemnify  himself  five  times  over  for  the  goods  set  apart 
by  the  chief.  In  this  way  the  Blackbird  enriched  himself,  and 
enriched  the  white  men,  and  became  exceedingly  popular 
among  the  traders  of  the  Missouri.  His  people,  however, 
were  not  equally  satisfied  by  a  regulation  of  trade  which 
worked  so  manifestly  against  them,  and  began  to  show  signs 
of  discontent.  Upon  this  a  crafty  and  unprincipled  trader 
revealed  a  secret  to  the  Blackbird,  by  which  he  might  actjuire 
unbounded  sway  over  his  ignorant  and  superstitious  subjects. 
He  instructed  him  in  the  poisonous  qualities  of  arsenic,  and 
furnished  him  with  an  ample  supply  of  that  baneful  drug. 
From  this  time  the  Blackbird  seemed  endowed  with  super- 


172 


DEADLY  SECRET  OF  THE  BLACKBIRD. 


natural  powers,  to  possess  the  gift  ol'  prophecy,  and  to  hold  the 
disposal  of  life  and  death  within  his  hands.  Wo  to  any  one 
who  questioned  his  authority  or  dared  to  dispute  his  commands! 
The  Blackbird  prophesied  his  death  within  a  certain  time,  and 
he  had  the  secret  means  of  verifying  his  prophecy.  Within 
the  fated  period  the  oflender  was  smitten  with  strange  and 
sudden  disease,  and  perished  from  the  face  of  the  earth. 
Every  one  stood  aghast  at  these  multiplied  examples  of  his 
superhuman  might,  and  dreaded  to  displease  so  omnipotent 
and  vindictive  a  being ;  and  the  Blackbird  enjoyed  a  wide  and 
undisputed  sway. 

It  was  not,  however,  by  terror  alone  that  he  ruled  his 
people  ;  he  was  a  warrior  of  the  first  order,  and  his  exploits 
in  arms  were  the  theme  of  young  and  old.  His  career  had 
begun  by  hardships,  having  been  taken  prisoner  by  the  Sioux, 
in  early  youth.  Under  his  command,  the  Omahas  obtained 
great  character  for  military  prowess,  nor  did  he  permit  an  in- 
sult or  injury  to  one  of  his  tribe  to  pass  unrevenged.  The 
Pawnee  republicans  had  inflicted  a  gross  indignity  on  a  favor- 
ite and  distinguished  Omalia  brave.  The  Blackbird  assem- 
bled his  warriors,  led  them  against  the  Pawnee  town,  attacked 
it  with  irresistible  fury,  slaughtered  a  great  number  of  its  in- 
habitants, and  burnt  it  to  the  ground.  He  waged  fierce  and 
bloody  war  against  the  Ottoes  for  many  years,  until  peace  was 
efl'ected  between  them  by  the  mediation  of  the  whites.  Fear- 
less in  battle,  and  fond  of  signalizing  himself,  he  dazzled  his 
tbllowers  by  his  daring  acts.  In  attacking  a  Kanza  village,  he 
rode  singly  round  it,  loading  and  discharging  his  rifle  at  the 
inhabitants  as  he  galloped  past  them.  He  kept  up  in  war  the 
same  idea  of  mysterious  and  supernatural  power.  At  one 
time,  when  pursuing  a  war  party  by  their  tracks  across  the 
prairies,  he   repeatedly  discharged   his   rifle  into  the  prints 


THE    POWER    OF    BEAUTY. 


173 


to  hold  the 
to  any  one 
;ommands ! 
1  time,  and 
^  Within 
range  and 
the  earth, 
lies  of  his 
jinnipotent 
I  wide  and 

ruled  his 
s  exploits 
areer  had 
the  Sioux, 
J  obtained 
nit  an  in- 
ved.  The 
»n  a  favor- 
rd  assem- 
I,  attacked 
of  its  in- 
tierce  and 
leace  was 
IS.  Fear- 
izzlcd  his 
•illiige,  he 
ifle  at  the 
n  war  the 
At  one 
cross  the 
he  prints 


made  by  their  feet  and  by  the  hoofs  of  their  horses,  assuring 
his  followers  that  he  would  thereby  cripple  the  fugitives,  so 
that  they  would  easily  be  overtaken.  He  in  fact  did  overtake 
them,  and  destroyed  them  almost  to  a  man;  and  his  victory 
was  considered  miraculous,  both  by  friend  and  foe.  By  these 
and  similar  exploits,  he  made  himself  the  pride  and  boast  of 
his  people,  and  became  popular  among  them,  notwithstanding 
his  death-denouncing  fiat. 

With  all  his  savage  and  terrific  qualities,  he  was  sensible 
of  the  power  of  female  beauty,  and  capable  of  love.     A  war 
party  of  the  Poncas  had  made  a  foray  into  the  lands  of  the 
Omahas,  and  carried  off  a   number  of  women  and   horses. 
The  Blackbird  was  roused  to  fury,  and  took  the  field  with  all 
his  braves,  swearing  to  "  eat  up  the  Ponca  nation,"— the  Indian 
threat  of  exterminating  war.      The  Poncas,  sorely  pressed, 
took  refuge  behind  a  rude  bulwark  of  earth ;  but  the  Blackbird 
kept  up  so  galling  a  fire,  that  he  seemed  likely  to  execute  his 
menace.     In  their  extremity  they  sent  forth  a  herald,  bearing 
the  calumet  or  pipe  of  peace,  but  he  was  shot  down  by  order 
of  the   Blackbird.     Another  herald  was  sent  forth  in  similar 
guise,  but  he  shared  a  like  fate.     The  Ponca  chief  then,  as  a 
last  hope,  arrayed  his  beautiful  daughter  in  her  finest  orna- 
ments, and  sent  her  forth  with  a  calumet,  to  sue  for  peace. 
The  charms  of  the  Indian  maid  touched  the  stern  heart  of  the 
Blackbird;  he  accepted  the  pipe  at  her  hand,  smoked  it,  and 
from  that  time  a  peace  took  place  between  the  Poncas  and  the 
Omahas. 

This  beautiful  damsel,  in  all  probability,  was  the  favorite 

wife  whose  fate  makes  so  tragic  an  incident  in  the  story  of  the 

Blackbird.      Her  youth  and  beauty  had   gained   an  absolute 

sway  over  his   rugged   heart,  so  that   he   distinguished   her 

above  all  his  other  wives.     The  habitual  gratification  of  his 

15* 


il 


174 


BLACKBIRD    AND    HIS    WIFE. 


vindictive  impulses,  however,  had  taken  away  from  him  all 
mastery  over  his  passions,  and  rendered  him  liable  to  the  most 
furious  transports  of  rage.  In  one  of  these  his  beautiful  wife 
had  the  misfortune  to  oflend  him,  when  suddenly  drawing  his 
ki;ife,  he  laid  her  dead  at  his  feet  with  a  single  blow. 

In  an  instant  his  frenzy  was  at  an  end.  He  gazed  for  a 
time  in  mute  bewilderment  upon  his  victim  ;  then  drawing  his 
buflalo  robe  over  his  head,  he  sat  down  beside  the  corpse,  and 
remained  brooding  over  his  crime  and  his  loss.  Three  days 
elapsed,  yet  the  chief  continued  silent  and  motionless  ;  tasting 
no  food,  and  apparently  sleepless.  It  was  apprehended  that 
he  intended  to  starve  himself  to  death ;  his  people  approached 
him  in  trembling  awe,  and  entreated  him  once  more  to  uncover 
his  face  and  be  comforted ;  but  he  remained  unmoved.  At 
length  one  of  his  warriors  brought  in  a  small  child,  and  laying 
it  on  the  ground,  placed  the  foot  of  the  Blackbird  upon  its  neck. 
The  heart  of  the  gloomy  savage  was  touched  by  this  appeal ; 
he  threw  aside  his  robe  ;  made  an  harangue  upon  what  he  had 
done  ;  and  from  that  time  forward  seemed  to  have  thrown  the 
load  of  grief  and  remorse  from  his  mind. 

He  still  retained  his  fatal  and  mysterious  secret,  and  with  it 
hi.s  terrific  power ;  but,  though  able  to  deal  death  to  his  ene- 
mies, he  could  not  avert  it  from  himself  or  his  friends.  In 
1802  the  smallpox,  that  dreadful  pestilence,  which  swept  over 
the  land  like  a  fire  over  the  prairies,  made  its  appearance  in 
the  village  of  the  Omahas.  The  poor  savages  saw  with  dis- 
may the  ravages  of  a  malady,  loathsome  and  agonizing  in  its 
details,  and  which  set  the  skill  and  experience  of  their  con- 
jurers and  medicine  men  at  defiance.  In  a  little  while,  two- 
thirds  of  the  population  were  swept  from  the  face  of  the 
earth,  and  the  doom  of  the  rest  seemed  sealed.  The  stoicism 
of  the  warriors  was  at  an  end  ;  tliey  became  wild  and  despe- 


DEATH    OP    BLACKBIRD. 


175 


rate  ;  some  set  fire  to  the  village  as  a  last  means  of  checking 
the  pestilence ;  others,  in  a  frenzy  of  despair,  put  their  wives 
and  children  to  death,  that  they  might  be  spared  the  agonies 
of  an  inevitable  disease,  and  that  they  might  all  go  to  some 
better  country. 

When  the  general  horror  and  dismay  was  at  its  height,  the 
Blackbird  hin^.self  was  struck  down  with  the  malady.  The 
poor  savages,  when  they  saw  their  chief  in  danger,  forgot 
their  own  miseries,  and  surrounded  his  dying  bed.  His  domi- 
nant spirit,  and  his  love  for  the  white  men,  were  evinced  in 
his  latest  breath,  with  which  he  designated  his  place  of  sepul- 
ture. It  was  to  be  on  a  hill  or  promontory,  upwards  of  four 
hundred  feet  in  height,  overlooking  a  great  extent  of  the  Mis- 
souri, from  whence  he  had  been  accustomed  to  watch  for  the 
barks  of  the  white  men.  The  Missouri  washes  the  base  of 
the  promontory,  and  after  winding  and  doubling  in  many  links 
and  mazes  in  the  plain  below,  returns  to  within  nine  hundred 
yards  of  its  starting  place  ;  so  that  for  thirty  miles  navigating 
with  sail  and  oar,  the  voyager  finds  himself  continually  near 
to  this  singular  promontory  as  if  spell  bound. 

It  was  the  dving  command  of  the  Blackbird  that  his  tomb 
should  be  upon  the  sunmiit  of  this  hill,  in  which  he  should  be 
interred,  seated  on  his  favorite  horse,  that  he  might  overlook 
his  ancient  domain,  and  behold  the  barks  of  the  white  men  as 
they  came  up  the  river  to  trade  with  his  people. 

His  dying  orders  were  faithfully  obeyed.  His  corpse  was 
placed  astride  of  his  war-steed,  and  a  mound  raised  over  them 
on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  On  top  of  the  mound  was  erected 
a  stalT,  from  which  fluttered  the  banner  of  the  chieftain,  and 
the  scalps  that  he  had  taken  in  battle.  When  the  expedition 
under  Mr.  Hunt  visited  that  part  of  the  country,  the  stalF  still 
remained  with  the  fragments  of  the  banner ;  and  the  supersti- 


H  '''' 

*•  ■  ;h 

i'^  1 

\  % 

i 

' ) 

I!  Bj 

\     '  f^ 

u 

■  t   ■-  .  ; 

i'H 

1  i     '■] 

a   *|          ' 

1 

iJ   .ii 

•     1 

176 


BLACKBIRD  S    TOMB. 


tious  rite  of  placing  food  from  time  to  time  on  the  mound,  for 
the  use  of  the  deceased,  was  still  observed  by  the  Omahas. 
That  rite  has  since  fallen  into  disuse,  for  the  tribe  itself  is 
almost  extinct.  Yet  the  hill  of  the  Blackbird  continues  an 
object  of  veneration  to  the  wandering  savage,  and  a  landmark 
to  the  voyager  of  the  Missouri ;  and  as  the  civilized  traveller 
comes  within  sight  of  its  spell-bound  crest,  the  mound  is 
pointed  out  to  him  from  afar,  which  still  encloses  the  grim 
skeletons  of  the  Indian  warrior  and  his  horse. 


:   -  il. 


"m 


RUMORS    OF    DANGER. 


177 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Rumors    of   danger    frcm   the   Sioux   Tetons— ruthless  cH.iRACTER 

op   those    savages pirates  of  the   missol'ri their  affair  with 

Crooks  and  M'Lellan — a  trading  expedition  broken  up — M'Lel- 
lan's  vow  of  vengeance — uneasiness  in  the  camp — desertions 
— departure  from  the  Omaha  village — meetinj  with  Jones  and 
Carson,  two  adventurous  trappers — scientifi,.,  pursuits  of  Messrs. 
Bradbury  and  Nuttall — zeal  of  a  botanist —adventure  of  Mr. 
Bradbury  with  a  Po.nca  Indian — expedient  of  the  pocket  com- 
pass   AND  microscope A  MESSENGER    FROM  LiSA MOTIVES    FOR    PRESS- 

INO    FORWARD. 


While  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  were  sojourning  at  the  village 
of  the  Omahas,  three  Sioux  Indians  of  the  Yankton  Ahna  tribe 
arrived,  bringing  unpleasant  intelligence.  They  reported  that 
certain  bands  of  the  Sioux  Tetons,  who  inhabited  a  region 
many  leagues  further  up  the  Missouri,  were  near  at  hand, 
awaiting  the  approach  of  the  party,  with  the  avowed  intention 
of  opposing  their  progress. 

The  Sioux  Tetons  were  at  that  time  a  sort  of  pirates  of 
the  Missouri,  who  considered  the  well-freighted  bark  of  the 
American  trader  fair  game.  They  had  their  own  trafhc  with 
the  British  merchants  of  the  northwest,  who  brought  them 
regular  supplies  of  merchandise  by  way  of  the  river  St.  Peter. 
Being  thus  independent  of  the  Missouri  traders  for  their  sup- 
plies, they  kept  no  terms  with  them,  but  plundered  them  when- 
ever they  had  an  opportunity.      It  has  been  insinuated  that 


I  I 


T^  ■; 


178 


ADVENTURE    OF    CROOKS    AND   M  LELLAN. 


they  were  prompted  to  these  outrages  by  the  British  mer- 
chants, who  wished  to  keep  off  all  rivals  in  the  Indian  trade  ; 
but  others  allege  another  motive,  and  one  savoring  of  a 
deeper  policy.  The  Sioux,  by  their  intercourse  with  the 
British  traders,  had  acquired  the  use  of  fire-arms,  which  had 
given  them  vast  superiority  over  other  tribes  higher  up  the 
Missouri.  They  had  made  themselves  also,  in  a  manner, 
factors  for  the  upper  tribes,  supplying  them  at  second  hand, 
and  at  greatly  advanced  prices,  with  goods  derived  from  the 
white  men.  The  Sioux,  therefore,  saw  with  jealousy  the 
American  traders  pushing  their  way  up  the  Missouri ;  fore- 
seeing that  the  upper  tribes  would  thus  be  relieved  from  all 
dependance  on  them  for  supplies  ;  nay,  what  was  worse, 
would  be  furnished  with  fire-arms,  and  elevated  into  formi- 
dable rivals. 

We  have  already  alluded  to  a  case  in  which  Mr.  Crooks 
and  Mr.  M'Lellan  had  been  interrupted  in  a  trading  voyage  by 
these  ruffians  of  the  river,  and,  as  it  is  in  some  degree  con- 
nected  with  circumstances  hereafter  to  be  related,  we  shall 
specify  it  more  particularly. 

About  two  years  before  the  time  of  which  we  are  treating, 
Crooks  and  M'Lellan  were  ascending  the  river  in  boats  with 
a  party  of  about  forty  men,  bound  on  one  of  their  trading 
expeditions  to  the  upper  tribes.  In  one  of  the  bends  of  the 
river,  where  the  channel  made  a  deep  curve  under  impending 
banks,  they  suddenly  heard  yells  and  shouts  above  them,  and 
beheld  the  cliffs  overhead  covered  with  armed  savages.  It 
was  a  band  of  Sioux  warriors,  upwards  of  six  hundred  stron^. 
They  brandished  tVoir  weapons  in  a  menacing  manner,  and 
ordered  the  boats  to  turn  back  and  land  lower  down  tae  river. 
There  was  no  disputing  these  commands,  for  they  had  t'le 
power  to  shower  destruction  upon  the  white  men,  without 


A    VOYAGE    INTERRUPTED. 


179 


risk  to  themselves.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan,  therefore,  turned 
back  with  feigned  alacrity  ;  and,  landing,  had  an  interview 
with  the  Sioux.  The  latter  forbade  them,  under  pain  of  ex- 
terminating hostility,  from  attempting  to  proceed  up  the  river, 
but  offered  to  trade  peacefully  with  them  if  they  would  halt 
where  they  were.  The  party,  being  principally  composed  of 
voyageurs,  was  too  weak  to  contend  with  so  superior  a  force, 
and  one  so  easily  augmented ;  they  pretended,  therefore,  to 
comply  cheerfully  with  their  arbitrary  dictation,  and  imme- 
diately proceeded  to  cut  down  trees  and  erect  a  trading  house. 
The  warrior  band  departed  for  their  village,  which  was  about 
twenty  miles  distant,  to  collect  objects  of  traffic  ;  they  left  six 
or  eight  of  their  i\  .nber,  however,  to  keep  watch  upon  the 
white  men,  and  scouts  were  continually  passing  to  and  fro 
with  intelligence. 

Mr.  Crooks  saw  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  prosecute  his 
voyage  without  the  danger  of  having  his  boats  plundered,  and 
a  great  part  of  his  men  massacred ;  he  determined,  however, 
not  to  be  entirely  frustrated  in  the  objects  of  his  expedition. 
While  he  continued,  therefore,  with  great  apparent  earnest- 
ness and  assiduity,  the  construction  of  the  trading  house,  he 
despatched  the  hunters  and  trappers  of  his  party  in  a  canoe, 
lo  make  their  way  up  the  river  to  the  original  place  of  desti- 
nation, there  to  busy  themselves  in  trapping  and  collecting 
peltries,  and  to  await  his  arrival  at  some  future  period. 

As  soon  as  the  detachment  had  had  sufficient  time  to  ascend 
beyond  the  hostile  country  of  the  Sioux,  Mr.  Crooks  suddenly 
broke  up  his  feigned  trading  establishment,  embarked  his  men 
and  effects,  and,  after  giving  the  astonished  rear-guard  of 
savages  a  galling  and  indignant  message  to  take  to  their  coun- 
trymen, pushed  down  the  river  with  all  speed,  sparing  neither 


180 


M  LELLAN  S    VOW. 


oar  nor  paddle,  day  nor  night,  until  fairly  beyond  the  swoop 
of  these  river  hawks. 

What  increased  the  irritation  of  Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lel- 
lan  at  this  mortifying  check  to  their  gainful  enterprise,  was 
the  information  that  a  rival  trader  was  at  the  bottom  of  it ;  the 
Sioux,  it  is  said,  having  been  instigated  to  this  outrage  by  Mr. 
Manuel  Lisa,  the  leading  partner  and  agent  of  the  Missouri 
Fur  Company,  already  mentioned.  This  intelligence,  whether 
true  or  false,  so  roused  the  fiery  temper  of  M'Lellan,  that  he 
swore,  if  ever  he  fell  in  with  Lisa  in  the  Indian  country,  he 
would  shoot  him  on  the  spot ;  a  mode  of  redress  perfectly  in 
unison  with  the  character  of  the  man,  and  the  code  of  honor 
prevalent  beyond  the  frontier. 

If  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  had  been  exasperated  by  the  inso- 
lent conduct  of  the  Sioux  Tetons,  and  the  loss  which  it  had 
occasioned,  those  freebooters  had  been  no  less  indignant  at 
being  outwitted  by  the  white  men,  and  disappointed  of  tlieir 
anticipated  gains,  and  it  was  apprehended  they  would  be  par- 
ticularly hostile  against  the  present  expedition,  when  they 
should  learn  that  these  gentlemen  were  engaged  in  it. 

All  these  causes  of  uneasiness  were  concealed  as  much  as 
possible  from  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  lest  they  should  be- 
come intimidated  ;  it  was  impossible,  however,  to  prevent  the 
rumors  brought  by  the  Indians  from  leaking  out,  and  they 
became  subjects  of  gossiping  and  exaggeration.  The  chief 
of  the  Omahas,  too,  on  returning  from  a  himting  excursion, 
reported  that  two  men  had  been  killed  some  distance  above, 
by  a  band  of  Sioux.  This  added  to  the  fears  that  already 
began  to  be  excited.  The  voyageurs  pictured  to  themselves 
bands  of  fierce  warriors  stationed  along  each  bank  of  the 
river,  by  whom  they  would  be  exposed  to  be  shot  down  in 
their  boats  :   or  lurking  hordes,  who  would  set  on  them  at 


mfi 


DEPARTURE    FROM    THE    OMAHA    VILLACiE. 


181 


night,  and  massacre  them  in  their  encampments.  Some  lost 
heart,  and  proposed  to  return,  rather  than  light  their  way,  and, 
in  a  manner,  run  the  gauntlet  through  the  country  of  these 
piratical  marauders.  In  fact,  three  men  deserted  while  at  this 
village.  Luckily,  their  place  was  supplied  by  three  others 
who  happened  to  be  there,  and  who  were  prevailed  on  to  join 
the  expedition  by  promises  of  liberal  pay,  and  by  being  fitted 
out  and  equipped  in  complete  style. 

The  irresolution  and  discontent  visible  among  some  of  his 
people,  arising  at  times  almost  to  mutiny,  and  the  occasional 
desertions  which  took  place  while  thus  among  friendly  tribes, 
and  within  reach  of  the  frontiers,  added  greatly  to  the  anxie- 
ties of  Mr.  Hunt,  and  rendered  him  eager  to  press  forward 
and  leave  a  hostile  tract  behind  him,  so  that  it  would  be  as 
perilous  to  return  as  to  keep  on,  and  no  one  would  dare  to 
desert. 

Accordingly,  on  the  15th  of  May  he  departed  from  the  vil- 
lage of  the  Omahas,  and  set  forward  towards  the  country  of 
the  formidable  Sioux  Tetons.  For  the  first  five  days  they 
had  a  fair  and  fresh  breeze,  and  the  boats  made  good  pro- 
gress. The  wind  then  came  ahead,  and  the  river  beginning 
to  rise,  and  to  increase  in  rapidity,  betokened  the  commence- 
ment of  the  annual  flood,  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snow 
on  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  the  vernal  rains  of  tlic  upper 
prairies. 

As  they  W(  re  now  entering  a  region  where  foes  might  be 

lying  in  wait  on  either  bank,  it  was  determined,  in  hunting  for 

game,  to  confine  themselves  principally  to  the  islands,  which 

sometimes  extend  to  considerable  length,  and  are  beautifully 

wooded,  affording  abundant  pasturage  and  shade.     On  one  of 

these  they  killed  three  buflfaloes  and  two  elks,  and,  halting  on 

the  ed'4e  of  a  beautiful  prairie,  made  a  sumptuous  hunter's 

16 


^w 


(I  ' 


182 


TWO    WANDER  I  NO    TRAPPERS. 


repast.  They  had  not  long  resumed  their  boats  and  pulled 
along  the  river  banks,  when  they  descried  a  canoe  approach- 
ing, navigated  by  two  men,  whom,  to  their  surprise,  they 
ascertained  to  be  white  men.  They  proved  to  be  two  of 
those  strange  and  fei.rless  wanderers  of  the  wilderness,  the 
trappers.  Their  names  were  Benjamin  Jones  and  Alexander 
Carson.  They  had  been  for  two  years  past  hunting  and  trap- 
ping near  the  head  of  the  Missouri  and  were  thus  floating  for 
thousands  of  miles  in  a  cockle  shell,  down  a  turbulent  stream, 
through  regions  infested  by  savage  tribes,  yet  apparently  as 
easy  and  unconcerned  as  if  navigating  securely  in  the  midst 
of  civilization. 

The  acquisition  of  two  such  hardy,  experienced  and  daunt- 
less himters  was  peculiarly  desirable  at  the  present  moment. 
They  needed  but  little  persuasion.  The  wilderness  is  the 
home  of  the  trapper ;  like  the  sailor,  he  cares  but  little  to  whioh 
point  of  the  compass  he  steers ;  and  Jones  and  Carson  readily 
abandoned  their  voyage  to  St.  Louis,  and  turned  their  faces 
towards  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Pacific. 

The  two  naturalists,  Mr.  Bradbury  and  Mr.  Nuttall,  who  had 
joined  the  expedition  at  St.  Louis,  still  accompanied  it,  and 
pursued  their  researches  on  all  occasions.  Mr.  Nuttall  .seems 
to  have  been  exclusively  devoted  to  his  scientific  pursuits.  He 
was  a  zealous  botanist,  and  all  his  enthusiasm  was  awakened 
at  beholding  a  new  world,  as  it  were,  opening  upon  him  in  the 
boundless  prairies,  clad  in  the  vernal  and  variegated  robe  of 
unknown  flowers.  Whenever  the  boats  landed  at  meal  times, 
or  for  any  temporary  purpose,  he  would  spring  on  shore  and 
set  out  on  a  hunt  for  new  specimens.  Every  plant  or  flower 
of  a  rare  or  unknown  species  was  eagerly  seized  as  a  prize. 
Delighted  with  the  treasures  spreading  themselves  out  before 
him,  he  went  groping  and  stumbling  along  among  a  wilderness 


ARDOR    OF    A    BOTANIST. 


1S3 


of  swoots,  Ibrj^etful  of  every  thinj^  but  his  immcdialo  pursuit, 
and  had  often  to  bo  sought  after  when  the  boats  wcro  about  to 
resume  their  course.  At  such  times  he  would  bo  found  far  olF 
in  the  prairies,  or  up  the  course  of  some  petty  stream  laden 
with  plants  of  all  kinds. 

The  Canadian  voyajieurs,  who  are  a  class  of  people  that 
know  nothing  out  of  their  iunnediate  line,  and  with  constitu- 
tional levity  make  a  jest  of  any  thing  they  cannot  understand, 
were  extremely  puzzled  by  this  passion  for  collecting  what 
they  considered  mere  useless  weeds.  When  they  saw  the 
worthy  botanist  coming  l)aek  heavy  laden  with  his  specimens, 
and  treasuring  them  up  as  carefully  as  a  miser  would  his 
hoard,  they  used  to  make  merry  among  themselves  at  his 
expense,  regarding  him  as  some  whimsical  kind  of  madman. 

Mr.  Hradbury  was  less  exclusive  in  his  tastes  and  habits,  and 
combined  the  hunter  and  sportsman  with  the  naturalist.  He 
took  his  rillc  or  his  fowlini'  piece  with  him  in  his  geological 
researches,  conformed  to  the  hardy  and  rugged  habits  of  the 
men  around  him,  and  of  course  gained  favor  in  their  eyes.  He 
had  a  strong  relish  for  incident  and  adventure,  was  curious  in 
observing  savage  manners,  and  savage  life,  and  ready  to  join 
any  hunting  or  otlier  excursion.  Even  now,  that  the  expedi- 
tion was  proceeding  tlirough  a  dangerous  neighborhood,  he 
coidd  not  check  his  propensity  to  ramble.  Having  observed, 
on  the  evening  of  the  2'Jd  of  May,  that  the  river  ahead  made  a 
great  bend  which  would  take  up  the  navigation  of  the  follow- 
ing day,  he  determined  to  profit  l)y  the  circumstance.  On  the 
morning  of  the  22d,  therefore,  instead  of  embarking,  he  filled 
his  shot  pouch  with  parched  corn,  for  provisions,  and  set  ofT 
to  cross  the  neck  on  foot  and  meet  the  boats  in  the  afternoon 
at  the  opjwsite  side  of  the  bend.  Mr.  Himt  felt  uneasy  at  h'is 
venturing  thus  alone,  and  reminded  him  that  he  was  in  an 


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184 


ADVENTURE    WITH    AN    INDIAN. 


enemy's  country ;  but  Mr,  Bradbury  made  light  of  the  danger, 
and  started  off  cheerily  upon  his  ramble.  His  day  was  passed 
pleasantly  in  traversing  a  beautilul  tract,  making  botanical  and 
geological  researches,  and  observing  the  habits  of  an  extensive 
village  of  prairie  dogs,  at  which  he  made  several  ineffectual 
shots,  without  considering  the  risk  he  run  of  attracting  the 
attention  of  any  savages  that  might  be  lurking  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. In  fact  he  had  totally  forgotten  the  Sioux  Tetons,  and 
all  tho  perils  of  the  country,  when,  about  the  middle  of  the 
afternoon,  as  he  stood  near  the  river  bank,  and  was  looking 
out  for  the  boat,  he  suddenly  felt  a  hand  laid  on  his  shoulder. 
Starting  and  turning  round,  he  beheld  a  naked  savage  with  a 
bow  bent,  and  the  arrow  pointed  at  his  breast.  In  an  instant 
his  gun  was  levelled  and  his  hand  upon  the  lock.  The  Indian 
drew  his  bow  still  further,  but  forbore  to  launch  the  shaft. 
Mr.  Bradbury,  with  admirable  presence  of  mind,  reflected  that 
the  savage,  if  hostile  in  his  intents,  would  have  shot  him  with- 
out giving  him  a  chance  of  defence  ;  he  paused,  therefore,  and 
held  out  his  hand.  The  other  took  it  in  sign  of  friendship, 
and  demanded  in  the  Osage  language  whether  he  was  a  Big 
Knife,  or  American.  He  answered  in  the  affirmative,  and  in- 
quired whether  the  other  were  a  Sioux.  To  his  great  relief 
he  found  that  he  was  a  Ponca.  By  this  time  two  other 
Indians  came  running  up,  and  all  three  laid  hold  of  Mr.  Brad- 
bury and  seemed  disposed  to  compel  him  to  go  off  with  them 
among  the  hills.  He  resisted,  and  sitting  down  on  a  sand  hill 
contrived  to  amuse  them  with  a  pocket  compass.  When  the 
novelty  of  this  was  exhausted  they  again  seized  him,  but  he 
now  produced  a  small  microscope.  This  new  wonder  again 
fixed  the  attention  of  the  savages,  who  have  far  more  curiosity 
than  it  has  been  the  custom  to  allow  them.  While  thus  en- 
gaged, one  of  them  suddenly  leaped  up  and  gave  a  war-whoop. 


il 


UNWELCOME    MISSIVES. 


185 


The  hand  of  the  hardy  naturaUst  was  again  on  his  gun  and  he 
was  prepared  to  make  battle  when  the  Indian  pointed  down 
the  river  and  revealed  the  true  cause  of  his  yell.  It  was  the 
mast  of  one  of  the  boats  appearing  above  the  low  willows 
which  bordered  the  stream.  Mr.  Bradbury  felt  infinitely  re- 
lieved by  the  sight.  The  Indians  on  their  part  now  showed 
signs  of  apprehension,  and  were  disposed  to  run  away  ;  but  he 
assured  them  of  good  treatment  and  something  to  drink  if  they 
would  accompany  him  on  board  of  the  boats.  They  lingered 
for  a  time,  but  disappeared  before  the  boats  came  to  land. 

On  the  following  morning  they  appeared  at  the  camp  accom- 
panied by  several  of  their  tribe.  With  them  came  also  a 
white  man,  who  announced  himself  as  a  messenger  bearing 
missives  for  Mr.  Hunt.  In  fact  he  brought  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Manuel  Lisa,  partner  and  agent  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company. 
As  has  already  been  mentioned,  this  gentleman  was  going  in 
search  of  Mr.  Henry  and  his  party,  who  had  been  dislodged 
from  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  by  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  and, 
had  shifted  his  post  somewhere  beyond  the  Rocky  mountains. 
Mr.  Lisa  had  left  St.  Louis  three  weeks  after  Mr.  Hunt,  and 
having  heard  of  the  hostile  intentions  of  the  Sioux,  had  made 
the  greatest  exertions  to  overtake  him,  that  they  might  pass 
through  the  dangerous  part  of  the  river  together.  He  had 
twenty  stout  oarsmen  in  his  service,  and  they  plied  their  oars 
so  vigorously,  that  he  had  reached  the  Omaha  village  just 
four  days  after  the  departure  of  Mr.  Hunt.  From  this  place 
he  despatched  the  messenger  in  question,  trusting  to  his  over- 
taking the  barges  as  they  toiled  up  against  the  stream,  and 
were  delayed  by  the  windings  of  the  river.  The  purport  of 
his  letter  was  to  entreat  Mr.  Hunt  to  wait  until  he  could  come 
up  with  him,  that  they  might  unite  their  forces  and  be  a  pro- 
tection to  each  other  in  their  perilous   course  through  the 

16* 


T" ' '. 

/| 

1* 

186 


A   BAFFLING    REPLY. 


t 

:j   i 


m 


"i\ 


1i 


t.:..:f 


country  of  the  Sioux.  In  fact,  as  it  was  afterwards  ascer- 
tained, Lisa  was  apprehensive  that  Mr.  Hunt  would  do  him 
some  ill  office  with  the  Sioux  bands,  securing  his  own  passage 
through  their  country  by  pretending  that  he  with  whom  they 
were  accustomed  to  trade,  was  on  his  way  to  them  with  a 
plentiful  supply  of  goods.  He  feared,  too,  that  Crooks  and 
M'Lellan  would  take  this  opportunity  to  retort  upon  him  the 
perfidy  which  they  accused  him  of  having  used,  two  years 
previously  among  these  very  Sioux.  In  this  respect,  how- 
ever, he  did  them  signal  injustice.  There  was  no  such  thing 
as  covert  design  or  treachery  in  their  thought ;  but  M'Lellan, 
when  he  heard  that  Lisa  was  on  his  way  up  the  river,  renewed 
his  open  threat  of  shooting  him  the  moment  he  met  him  on 
Indian  land. 

The  representations  made  by  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  of  the 
treachery  they  had  experienced,  or  fancied,  on  the  part  of 
Lisa,  had  great  weight  with  Mr.  Hunt,  especially  when  he 
recollected  the  obstacles  that  had  been  thrown  in  his  own  way 
by  that  gentleman  at  St.  Louis.  He  doubted,  therefore,  the 
fair  dealing  of  Lisa,  and  feared  that,  should  they  enter  the  Sioux 
country  together,  the  latter  might  make  use  of  his  influence 
with  that  tribe,  as  he  had  in  the  case  of  Crooks  and  M'Lel- 
lan, and  instigate  them  to  oppose  his  progress  up  the  river. 

He  sent  back,  therefore,  an  answer  calculated  to  beguile 
Lisa,  assuring  him  that  he  would  wait  for  him  at  the  Poncas 
village,  which  was  but  a  little  distance  in  advance  ;  but,  no 
sooner  had  the  messenger  departed,  than  he  pushed  forward 
with  all  diligence,  barely  stopping  at  the  village  to  procure  a 
supply  of  dried  buffalo  meat,  and  hastening  to  leave  the  other 
party  as  far  behind  as  possible,  thinking  there  was  less  to  be 
apprehended  from  the  open  hostility  of  Indian  foes,  than  from 
the  quiet  strategy  of  an  Indian  trader. 


CAMP    GOSSIP. 


187 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Camp  gossip — deserters — recruits — Kentucky  hunters — a  veteran 

WOODMAN TIDINGS    OF    Mr.    HeXRV DANGER    FROM    THE   BlACKFEKT 

ALTERATION     OP     PLANS SCENERY     OF     THE     RIVER BUFFALO     ROADS 

IRON    ORE — COUNTRY    OF     THE    SlOUX — A    LAND    OF    DANGER — APPREHEN- 
SIONS   OF     THE    VOYAGEURS InDIAN     SCOUTS THREATENED    HOSTILITIES 

A     COUNCIL    OF    WAR — AN     ARRAY     OF    BATTLE — A    PARLEY THE    PIPE 

OF    PEACE — SPEECH    MAKING. 


It  was  about  noon  when  the  party  left  the  Poncas  village, 
about  a  league  beyond  which  they  passed  the  mouth  of  the 
Quicourt,  or  Rapid  river,  (called,  in  the  original  French,  VEau 
Qui  Court.)  After  having  proceeded  some  distance  further, 
they  landed,  and  encamped  for  the  night.  In  the  evening 
camp,  the  voyageurs  gossiped,  as  usual,  over  the  events  of 
the  day ;  and  especially  over  intelligence  picked  up  among  the 
Poncas.  These  Indians  had  confirmed  the  previous  reports 
of  the  hostile  intentions  of  the  Sioux,  and  had  assured  them 
that  five  tribes,  or  bands,  of  that  fierce  nation  were  actually 
assembled  higher  up  the  river,  and  waiting  to  cut  them  off. 
This  evening  gossip,  and  the  terrific  stories  of  Indian  warfare 
to  which  it  gave  rise,  produced  a  strong  effect  upon  the 
imaginations  of  the  irresolute ;  and  on  the  morning  it  was  dis- 
covered that  the  two  men,  who  had  joined  the  party  at  the 
Maha  village,  and  been  so  bounteously  fitted  out,  had  deserted 
in  the  course  of  the  night,  carrying  with  them  all  their  equip- 
ments.    As  it  was  known  that  one  of  them  could  not  swim,  it 


'i4 


188 


KENTUCKY    HUNTERS    AFLOAT. 


«ii^ 


was  hoped  that  the  banks  of  the  Quicourt  river  would  bring 
them  to  a  halt.  A  general  pursuit  was  therefore  instituted, 
but  without  success. 

On  the  following  morning,  (May  26th)  as  they  were  all  on 
shore,  breakfasting  on  one  of  the  beautiful  banks  of  the  river, 
they  observed  two  canoes  descending  along  the  opposite  side. 
By  the  aid  of  spyglasses,  they  ascertained  that  there  were 
two  white  men  in  one  of  the  canoes,  and  one  in  the  other.  A 
gun  was  discharged,  which  called  the  attention  of  the  voy- 
agers, who  crossed  over.  They  proved  to  be  three  Kentucky 
hunters,  of  the  true  "dreadnought"  stamp.  Their  names  were 
Edward  Robinson,  John  Hoback,  and  Jacob  Rizner.  Robin- 
son was  a  veteran  backwoodman,  sixty-six  years  of  age.  He 
had  been  one  of  the  lirst  settlers  of  Kentucky,  and  engaged  in 
many  of  the  conflicts  of  the  Indians  on  "  The  Bloody  Ground." 
In  one  of  these  battles  he  had  been  scalped,  and  he  still  wore 
a  handkerchief  bound  round  his  head  to  protect  the  part. 
These  men  had  passed  several  years  in  the  upper  wilderness. 
They  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  Missouri  Company  under 
Mr.  Henry,  and  had  crossed  the  Rocky  mountains  with  him 
in  the  preceding  year,  when  driven  from  his  post  on  the  Mis- 
souri by  the  hostilities  of  the  Blackfeet,  After  crossing  the 
mountains,  Mr.  Henry  had  established  himself  on  one  of 
the  head  branches  of  the  Columbia  river.  There  they  had 
remained  with  him  for  some  months,  hunting  and  trapping, 
until,  having  satisfied  their  wandering  propensities,  they  felt 
disposed  to  return  to  the  families  and  comfortable  homes 
which  they  had  left  in  Kentucky.  They  had  accordingly 
made  their  way  back  across  the  mountains,  and  down  the 
rivers,  and  were  in  full  career  for  St.  Louis,  when  thus  sud- 
denly interrupted.  The  sight  of  a  powerful  party  of  traders, 
trappers,  hunters,  and  voyageurs,  well  armed  and  equipped, 


DANGER    FROM    THE    BLACKFEET. 


1H9 


aid  bring 
nstituted, 

re  all  on 

the  river, 
isite  side, 
ere  were 
)tlier.     A 
the  voy- 
Kontucky 
mes  were 
.     Robin- 
age.     He 
ngaged  in 
Ground." 
still  wore 
the  part, 
ilderness. 
.ny  under 
with  him 
the  Mis- 
Issing  the 
one   of 
I  they  had 
trapping, 
they  felt 
lie  homes 
|cordingly 
lown  the 
[thus  sud- 
|f  traders, 
equipped, 


furnished  at  all  points,  in  high  health  and  spirits,  and  banquet- 
ing lustily  on  the  green  margin  of  the  river,  was  a  spectacle 
equally  stimulating  to  these  veteran  backwoodmen  with  the 
glorious  array  of  a  campaigning  army  to  an  old  soldier ;  but 
when  they  learned  the  grand  scope  and  extent  of  the  enter- 
prise in  hand,  it  was  irresistible :  homes  and  families,  and  all 
the  charms  of  green  Kentucky  vanished  from  their  thoughts ; 
t^ey  cast  loose  their  canoes  to  drift  down  the  stream,  and 
joyfully  enlisted  in  the  band  of  adventurers.  They  engaged 
on  similar  terms  with  some  of  the  other  hunters.  The  com- 
pany was  to  fit  them  out,  and  keep  them  supplied  with  the 
requisite  equipments  and  munitions,  and  they  were  to  yield 
one  half  of  the  produce  of  their  hunting  and  trapping. 

The  addition  of  three  such  staunch  recruits  was  extremely 
acceptable  at  this  dangerous  part  of  the  river.     The  knowl- 
edge of  the  country  which  they  had  acquired,  also,  in  their 
journeys  and  hunting  excursions  along  the  rivers  and  among 
the  Rocky  mountains,  was  all  important ;  in  fact,  the  informa- 
tion derived  from  them  induced  Mr.  Hunt  to  alter  his  future 
course.     He  had  hitherto  intended  to  proceed  by  the  route 
taken  by  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  their  famous  exploring  expedi- 
tion, ascending  the  Missouri  to  its  forks,  and  thence  going, 
by  land,  across  the  mountains.     These  men  informed  him, 
however,  that  on  taking  that  course  he  would  have  to  pass 
through  the  country  infested  by  the  savage  tribe  of  the  Black- 
feet,  and  would  be  exposed  to  their  hostilities ;  they  being,  as 
has  already  been  observed,  exasperated  to  deadly  animosity 
against  the  whites,  on  account  of  the  death  of  one  of  their 
tribe  by  the  hands  of  Captain   Lewis.      They  advised  him 
rather  to  pursue  a  route  more  to  the  southward,  being  the  same 
by  which  they  had  returned.     This  would  carry  them  over  the 
mountains  about  where  the  head  waters  of  the  Platte  and  the 


u 


It- 

if- 

H 


iif! 


m 


190 


A    CHANGE    OF    PLAN. 


Yellowstone  take  their  rise,  at  a  place  much  more  easy  and 
practicable  than  that  where  Lewis  and  Clarke  had  crossed. 
In  pursuing  this  course,  also,  he  would  pass  through  a  country- 
abounding  with  game,  where  he  would  have  a  better  chance 
of  procuring  a  constant  supply  of  provisions  than  by  the  other 
route,  and  would  run  less  risk  of  molestation  from  the  Black- 
feet.  Should  he  adopt  this  advice,  it  would  be  better  for  him 
to  abandon  the  river  at  the  Aricara  town,  at  which  he  would 
arrive  in  the  course  of  a  few  days.  As  the  Indians  of  that 
town  possessed  horses  in  abundance,  he  might  purchase  a 
sufficient  number  of  them  for  his  great  journey  overland, 
which  would  commence  at  that  place. 

After  reflecting  on  this  advice,  and  consulting  with  his 
associates,  Mr.  Hunt  came  to  the  determination  to  follow 
the  route  thus  pointed  out,  in  which  the  hunters  engaged  to 
pilot  him. 

The  party  continued  their  voyage  with  delightful  May 
weather.  The  prairies  bordering  on  the  river  were  gayly 
painted  with  innumerable  flowers,  exhibiting  the  motley  con- 
fusion of  colors  of  a  Turkey  carpet.  The  beautiful  islands 
also,  on  which  they  occasionally  halted,  presented  the  appear- 
ance of  mingled  grove  and  garden.  The  trees  were  often 
covered  with  clambering  grape  vines  in  blossom,  which  per- 
fumed the  air.  Between  the  stately  masses  of  the  groves 
were  grassy  lawns  and  glades,  studded  with  flowers,  or  inter- 
spersed with  rose  bushes  in  full  bloom.  These  islands  were" 
often  the  resort  of  the  buflTalo,  the  elk,  nnd  the  antelope,  who 
had  made  innumerable  paths  among  the  trees  and  thickets, 
which  had  the  eflect  of  the  mazy  walks  and  alleys  of  parks 
and  shrubberies.  Sometimes,  where  the  river  passed  between 
high  banks  and  bluffs,  the  roads,  made  by  the  tramp  of  bufl'a- 
loes  for  many  ages  along  the  face  of  the  heights,  looked  like 


mm 


IRON    ORE — A    LAND    OF    DANGER. 


191 


80  many  well  travelled  highways.  At  other  places,  the  bjinks 
were  banded  with  great  veins  of  iron  ore,  laid  bare  by  the 
abrasion  of  the  river.  At  one  place  the  course  of  the  river 
was  nearly  in  a  straight  line  for  about  fifteen  miles.  The 
banks  sloped  gently  to  its  margin,  without  a  single  tree,  but 
bordered  with  grass  and  herbage  of  a  vivid  green.  Along 
each  bank,  for  the  whole  fifteen  miles,  extended  a  stripe,  one 
hundred  yards  in  breadth,  of  a  deep  rusty  brown,  indicating 
an  inexhaustible  bed  of  iron,  through  the  centre  of  which  the 
Missouri  had  worn  its  way.  Indications  of  the  continuance 
of  this  bed  were  afterwards  observed  higher  up  the  river.  It 
is,  in  fact,  one  of  the  mineral  magazines  which  nature  has 
provided  in  the  heart  of  this  vast  realm  of  fertility,  and  which, 
in  connexion  with  the  immense  beds  of  coal  on  the  same  river, 
seem  garnered  up  as  the  elements  of  the  future  wealth  and 
power  of  the  mighty  west. 

The  sight  of  these  mineral  treasures  greatly  excited  the 
curiosity  of  Mr.  Bradbury,  and  it  was  tantalizing  to  him  to  be 
checked  in  his  scientific  researches,  and  obliged  to  forego  his 
usual  rambles  on  shore ;  but  they  were  now  entering  the  fated 
country  of  the  Sioux  Tetons,  in  which  it  was  dangerous  to 
wander  about  unguarded. 

This  country  extends  for  some  days'  journey  along  the  river, 
and  consists  of  vast  prairies,  here  and  there  diversified  by 
swelling  hills,  and  cut  up  by  ravines,  the  channels  of  turbid 
streams  in  the  rainy  seasons,  but  almost  destitute  of  water 
during  the  heats  of  summer.  Here  and  there,  on  the  sides 
of  the  hills,  or  along  the  alluvial  borders  and  bottoms  of  the 
ravines,  are  groves  and  skirts  of  forest ;  but  for  the  most  part 
the  country  presented  to  the  eye  a  boundless  waste,  covered 
with  herbage,  but  without  trees. 

The  soil  of  this  immense  region  is  strongly  impregnated 


192 


APPREHENSIONS  OP  THE  VOYAOEURS. 


i;; 


I 


with  sulphur,  copperas,  alum,  and  glauber  salts ;  its  various 
earths  impart  a  deep  tinge  to  the  streams  which  drain  it,  and 
these,  with  the  crumbling  of  the  banks  along  the  Missouri, 
give  to  the  waters  of  that  river  much  of  the  coloring  matter 
with  which  they  are  cK  aded. 

Over  this  vast  tract  the  roving  bands  of  the  Sioux  Tetons 
hold  their  vagrant  sway ;  subsisting  by  the  chase  of  the  buf- 
falo, the  elk,  the  deer,  and  the  antelope,  and  waging  ruthless 
warfare  with  other  wandering  tribes. 

As  the  boats  made  their  way  up  the  stream  bordered  by 
this  land  of  danger,  many  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  whose 
fears  had  been  awakened,  would  regard  with  a  distrustful 
eye  the  boundless  waste  extending  on  each  side.  All,  how- 
ever, was  silent,  and  apparently  untenanted  by  a  human  be'ng. 
Now  and  then  a  herd  of  deer  would  be  seen  feeding  tranquilly 
among  the  flowery  herbage,  or  a  line  of  buffaloes,  like  a  cara- 
van on  its  march,  moving  across  the  distant  profile  of  the 
prairiOk  The  Canadians,  however,  began  to  apprehend  an 
ambush  in  every  thicket,  and  to  regard  the  broad,  tranquil 
plain  as  a  sailor  eyes  some  shallow  and  perfidious  sea, 
which,  though  smooth  and  safe  to  the  eye,  conceals  the 
lurking  rock  or  treacherous  shoal.  The  very  name  of  a 
Sioux  became  a  watchword  of  terror.  Not  an  elk,  a  wolf,  or 
any  other  animal,  could  appear  on  the  hills,  but  the  boats 
resounded  with  exclamations  from  stem  to  stern,  "  voita  les 
Sioux .'"  "  voila  les  Sioux .'"  (there  are  the  Sioux !  there  are 
the  Sioux!)  Whenever  it  was  practicable,  the  night  encamp- 
ment was  on  some  island  in  the  centre  of  the  stream. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  May,  as  the  travellers  were 
breakfasting  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  the  usual  alarm 
was  given,  but  with  more  reason,  as  two  Indians  actually 
made  their  appearance  on  a  bluff  on  the  opposite  or  northeast 


INDIAN    SCOUTS. 


103 


siile,  ami  harangued  them  in  a  loud  voice.  As  it  was  iini)os- 
sible  at  that  distance  to  distinguish  what  thoy  said,  Mr.  Hunt, 
after  breakfast,  crossed  the  river  with  Pierre  Dorion,  tiio 
interpreter,  and  advanced  boldly  to  converse  with  them,  while 
the  rest  remained  watching,  in  mute  suspense,  the  movements 
of  the  parties.  As  soon  as  Mr.  Hunt  landed,  one  of  the 
Indians  disappeared  behind  the  hill,  but  shortly  reappeared  on 
horseback,  and  went  scouring  off  across  the  heights.  Mr. 
Hunt  held  some  conference  with  the  remaining  savage,  and 
then  recrossed  the  river  to  his  party. 

These  two  Indians  proved  to  be  spies  or  scouts  of  a  large 
war  party  encamped  about  a  league  ofi',  and  numbering  two 
hundred  and  eighty  lodges,  or  about  six  hundred  warriors,  of 
three  different  tribes  of  Sioux ;  the  Yangtons  Alma,  the  'J'e- 
tons  Bois-brul^,  and  the  Tetons  Min-na-kine-azzo.  They 
expected  daily  to  be  reinforced  by  two  other  tribes,  and  had 
been  waiting  eleven  days  for  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party, 
with  a  determination  to  oppose  their  progress  up  the  river ; 
being  resolved  to  prevent  all  trade  of  the  white  men  with 
their  enemies  the  Arickaras,  Mandans,  and  Minatarees.  The 
Indian  who  had  galloped  ofT  on  horseback  had  gone  to  give 
notice  of  the  approach  of  the  party,  so  that  they  might  now 
look  out  for  some  fierce  scenes  with  those  piratical  savages, 
of  whom  they  had  received  so  many  formidable  accounts. 

The  party  braced  up  their  spirits  to  the   encounter,  and 

re-embarking,  pulled  resolutely  up  the  stream.     An  island  for 

some  time  intervened  between  them  and  the  opposite  side  of 

the  river ;  but  on  clearing  the  upper  end,  they  came  in  full 

view  of  the  hostile  shore.     There  was  a  ridge  of  hills  down 

which  the  savages  were  pouring  in  great  numbers,  some  on 

horseback,  and  some  on  foot.     Reconnoitring  them  with  the 

aid  of  glasses,  they  perceived  that  thev  were  all  in  warlike 

17 


104 


TllIlEATENED    HOSTIMTIFS, 


■W  1': 


army,  piiintcd  unci  dcconitcd  lor  biittlo.  Their  woapons  were 
bows  and  arrows,  and  a  few  short  carbines,  and  most  of  them 
had  round  shields.  Altogether  they  iiad  a  wild  and  gallant 
appearatice,  and,  taking  possession  of  a  point  which  com- 
manded the  river,  rangtid  tluimselves  along  the  bank  as  if 
prepared  to  dispute  the  passage. 

At  sight  of  this  formidable  front  of  war,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
companions  held  council  together.  It  was  plain  that  the 
riunors  they  had  heard  were  correct,  and  the  Sioux  were 
determined  to  oppose  their  progress  by  force  of  arnis.  To 
attempt  to  elude  them  and  continue  along  the  river  was  out  of 
the  question.  The  strength  of  the  mid-current  was  too  violent 
to  be  withstood,  and  the  boats  were  obliged  to  ascend  along 
the  river  banks.  These  banks  were  often  high  and  perpen- 
dicular, aflbrding  the  savages  frequent  stations,  from  whence, 
safe  themselves,  and  almost  unseen,  they  might  shower  down 
their  missiles  upon  the  boats  below,  and  retreat  at  will,  with- 
out danger  from  pursuit.  Nothing  apparently  remained,  there- 
fore, but  to  fight  or  turn  back.  The  Sioux  far  outnumbered 
them,  it  is  true,  but  their  own  party  was  about  sixty  strong, 
well  armed  and  supplied  with  ammunition ;  and,  beside  their 
guns  and  rifles,  they  had  a  swivel  and  two  howitzers  mounted 
in  the  boats.  Should  they  succeed  in  breaking  this  Indian 
force  by  one  vigorous  assault,  it  was  likely  they  would  be 
deterred  from  making  any  future  attack  of  consequence.  The 
fighting  alternative  was,  therefore,  instantly  adopted,  and  the 
boats  pulled  to  shore  nearly  opposite  to  the  hostile  force. 
Here  the  arms  were  all  examined  and  put  in  order.  The 
swivel  and  howitzers  were  then  loaded  with  powder  and  dis 
charged,  to  let  the  savages  know  by  the  report  how  formidably 
they  were  provided.  The  noise  echoed  along  the  shores  of 
the  river,  and  must  have  startled  the  warriors,  who  were  only 


|i|«i 


A\    ARRAY    OF    BATTLK. 


hV) 


accustomed  to  tlio  sharp  reports  of  riJles.  The  .s;nn«>  pieces 
were  then  loiuled  vvifli  as  luaiiy  bullets  as  they  woiiM  jjrobably 
bear;  after  which  tlio  Mhoh^  P'lrty  embarked,  and  pulled 
across  the  river.  The  indians  remained  watehinjf  them  in 
.silence,  their  painted  forms  and  visaffes  ylarir.j,'  in  tlie  sun, 
and  tiieir  feathers  llutterin;f  in  th(!  br((ezc.  The  poor  Cana- 
dians eyed  them  with  rueful  glances,  and  now  and  then  a 
fearful  ejaculation  would  escape  then).  "  Parl)leu !  this  is  a 
sad  scrape  we  are  in,  brother !"  would  one  mutter  to  the  next 
oarstnan.  *'  Aye,  aye,"  the  other  would  reply,  "  wc  are  not 
going  to  a  wedding,  my  I'riend  !" 

When  the  boats  arrived  wiiliin  riflo  shot,  i\w  hunters  and 
other  fighting  personages  on  board  seized  their  weapons,  and 
prepared  for  action.  As  they  rose  to  fire,  a  confusion  took 
place  among  the  savages.  They  displayed  their  bidlalo  robes, 
raised  them  with  both  hands  above  their  heads,  and  then 
spread  them  before  them  on  the  ground.  At  sight  of  this, 
Pierre  Dorion  eagerly  cried  out  to  the  party  not  to  iire,  as  this 
movement  was  a  peaceful  signal,  and  an  invitation  to  a  parley. 
Immediately  about  a  dozen  of  the  principal  warriors,  sepa- 
rating from  the  rest,  descended  to  the  edge  of  the  river,  lighted 
a  tire,  seated  themselves  in  a  semicircle  round  it,  and,  display- 
ing the  calumet,  invited  the  party  to  land.  Mr.  Hunt  now 
called  a  council  of  the  partners  on  board  of  his  boat.  The 
question  was,  whether  to  trust  to  the  amicable  overtures  of 
tliese  ferocious  people  ?  It  was  determined  in  the  aflirmative ; 
for,  otherwise,  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  fight  them. 
The  main  body  of  the  party  were  ordered  to  remain  on  board 
of  the  boats,  keeping  within  shot,  and  prepared  to  fire  in  case 
of  any  signs  of  treachery ;  while  Mr.  Hunt  and  the  other  part- 
ners (M'Kenzie,  Crooks,  Miller,  and  M'Lellan,)  proceeded  to 
land,  accompanied  by  the  interpreter  and  Mr.  Bradbury.     The 


ri    t" 


196 


THE    PIPE    OF    PEACE. 


;■      »      I.  r 


■!  I! 


•t  ; 


r  '     '  -  ''I  ' 


Hi     :•#■. 


ti;i 


'111 

i 


I 


'I 


chiefs  who  awaited  them  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  remained 
seated  in  their  semicircle,  without  stirring  a  limb  or  moving  a 
muscle,  motionless  as  so  many  statues.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
companions  advanced  without  hesitation,  and  took  their  seats 
on  the  sand  so  as  to  complete  the  circle.  The  band  of  war- 
riors who  lined  the  banks  above  stood  looking  down  in  silent 
groups  and  clusters,  some  ostentatiously  equipped  and  deco- 
rated, others  entirely  naked,  but  fantastically  painted,  and  all 
variously  armed. 

The  pipe  of  peace  was  now  brought  forward  with  due  cere- 
mony. The  bowl  was  of  a  species  of  red  stone  resembling 
porphyry ;  the  stem  was  six  feet  in  length,  decorated  with 
tufts  of  horse  hair  dyed  red.  The  pipebearer  stepped  Avithin 
the  circle,  lighted  the  pipe,  held  it  towards  the  sun,  then 
towards  the  different  points  of  the  compass,  after  which  ho 
handed  it  to  the  principal  chief.  The  latter  smoked  a  few 
whiffs,  then,  holding  the  head  of  the  pipe  in  his  hand,  offered 
the  other  end  to  Mr.  Hunt,  and  to  each  one  successively  in 
the  circle.  When  all  had  smoked,  it  was  considered  that  an 
assurance  of  good  faith  and  amity  had  been  interchanged. 
Mr.  Hunt  now  made  a  speech  in  French,  which  was  inter- 
preted as  he  proceeded  by  Pierre  Dorion.  He  informed  the 
Sioux  of  the  real  object  of  the  expedition,  of  himself  and  his 
companions,  which  was,  not  to  trade  with  any  of  the  tribes  up 
the  river,  but  to  cross  the  mountains  to  the  great  salt  lake  in 
the  west,  in  search  of  some  of  their  brothers,  whom  they  had 
not  seen  for  eleven  months.  That  he  had  heard  of  the  inten- 
tion of  the  Sioux  to  oppose  his  passage,  and  was  prepared,  as 
they  might  see,  to  effect  it  at  all  hazards :  nevertheless,  his 
feelings  towards  the  Sioux  were  friendly,  in  proof  of  which  he 
had  brought  them  a  present  of  tobacco  and  corn.  So  saying, 
he  ordered  about  fifteen  carottes  of  tobacco,  and  as  many  bags 


SPEECH    MAKING. 


197 


of  corn,  to  be  brought  from  the  boat  and  laid  in  a  heap  near 
the  council  fire. 

The  sight  of  these  presents  mollified  the  chieftain,  who  had 
doubtless  been  previously  rendered  considerate  by  the  resolute 
conduct  of  the  white  men,  the  judicious  disposition  of  their 
little  armament,  the  completeness  of  their  equipments,  and.  the 
compact  array  of  battle  which  they  presented.  He  made  a 
s^/vicch  in  reply,  in  which  he  stated  the  object  of  their  hostile 
assemblage,  which  had  been  merely  to  prevent  supplies  of 
arms  and  ammunition  from  going  to  the  Arickaras,  Mandans, 
and  Minatarees,  with  whom  they  were  at  war ;  but  being  now 
convinced  that  the  party  Avere  carrying  no  supplies  of  the 
kind,  but  merely  proceeding  in  quest  of  their  brothers  beyond 
the  mountains,  they  would  not  impede  them  in  their  voyage. 
He  concluded  by  thanking  them  for  their  present,  and  advising 
them  to  encamp  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  as  he  had 
some  young  men  among  his  warriors  for  whose  discretion  he 
could  not  be  answerable,  and  who  might  be  troublesome. 

Here  ended  the  conference :  they  all  arose,  shook  hands, 
and  parted.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  re-embarked,  and 
the  boats  proceeded  on  their  course  unmolested. 


17* 


I 
[ii')'-;'     l! 


\  ■  W" 


198 


A   MEETING    OF    OLD   OPPONENTS. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


'ii 


:!^i 


The  great  bend  of  the  Missouri — Crooks  and  M'Lellan  meet  with 
TWO  OF  their  Indian  opponents — wanton  outrage  of  a  white  man 

THE     CAUSE      OP      InDIAN     HOSTILITY — DANGERS     AND      PRECAUTIONS AN 

Indian  war  party — dangerous  situation  of  Mr.  Hunt — a  friend- 
ly   ENCAMPMENT FEASTING    AND   DANCING APPROACH    OF   MaNUEL   LiSA 

AND    HIS    PARTY A    GRIM    MEETING    BETWEEN   OLD    RIVALS PlERRE    Do- 

RION    IN    A    FURY A    BURST    OF    CHIVALRY. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day  (June  1st)  they  arrived 
at  the  great  bend,  where  the  river  winds  for  about  thirty  Uiiles 
round  a  circular  peninsula,  the  neck  of  which  is  not  above  two 
thousand  yards  across.  On  the  succeeding  morning,  at  an 
early  hour,  they  descried  two  Indians  standing  on  a  high  bank 
of  the  river,  waving  and  spreading  their  buffalo  robes  in  signs 
of  amity.  They  immediately  pulled  to  shore  and  landed.  On 
approaching  the  savages,  however,  the  latter  showed  evident 
symptoms  of  alarm,  spreading  out  their  arms  horizontally, 
according  to  their  mode  of  supplicating  clemency.  The  rea- 
son was  soon  explained.  They  proved  to  be  two  chiefs  of 
the  very  war  party  that  had  brought  Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lel- 
lan to  a  stand  two  years  before,  and  obliged  them  to  escape 
down  the  river.  They  ran  to  embrace  these  gentlemen,  as  if 
delighted  to  meet  with  them ;  yet  they  evidently  feared  some 
retaliation  of  their  past  misconduct,  nor  were  they  quite  at 
ease  until  the  pipe  of  peace  had  been  smoked. 


CAUSES    OF   INDIAN    HOSTILITY. 


199 


Mr.  Hunt  having  been  informed  that  the  tribe  to  which 
these  men  belonged,  had  killed  three  white  men  during  the 
preceding  summer,  reproached  them  with  the  crime  and  de- 
manded their  reasons  for  such  savage  hostility.  "We  kill 
white  men,"  replied  one  of  the  chiefs,  "because  white  men 
kill  us.  That  Aery  man,"  added  he,  pointing  to  Carson,  one 
of  the  new  recruits,  "  killed  one  of  our  brothers  last  summer. 
The  three  white  men  were  slain  to  avenge  his  death." 

The  chief  was  correct  in  his  reply.  Carson  admitted  that 
being  with  a  party  of  Arickaras  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri, 
and  seeing  a  war  party  of  Sioux  on  the  opposite  side,  he  had 
fired  with  his  rifle  across.  It  was  a  random  shot,  made  without 
much  expectation  of  effect,  for  the  river  was  full  half  a  mile  in 
breadth.  Unluckily  it  brought  down  a  Sioux  warrior  for  whose 
wanton  destruction  threefold  vengeance  had  been  taken  as  has 
been  stated.  In  this  Avay  outrages  are  frequently  committed 
on  the  natives  by  thoughtless  or  mischievous  white  men  ;  the 
Indians  retaliate  according  to  a  law  of  their  code,  which  re- 
quires blood  for  blood  ;  their  act,  of  what  with  them  is  pious 
vengeance,  resounds  throughout  the  land,  and  is  represented  as 
wanton  and  unprovoked ;  the  neighborhood  is  roused  to  arms  ; 
a  war  ensues,  which  ends  in  the  destruction  of  half  the  tribe, 
the  ruin  of  the  rest,  and  their  expulsion  from  their  hereditary 
homes.  Such  is  too  often  the  real  history  of  Indian  warfare, 
which  in  general  is  traced  up  only  to  some  vindictive  act  of  a 
savage  ;  while  the  outrage  of  the  scoundrel  white  man  that 
provoked  it  is  sunk  in  silence. 

The  two  chiefs,  having  smoked  their  pipe  of  peace  and 
received  a  few  presents,  departed  well  satisfied.  In  a  litde 
while  two  others  appeared  on  horseback,  and  rode  up  abreast 
of  the  boats.  They  had  seen  the  presents  given  to  their 
comrades,  but  were  dissatisfied  with  them  and  came  after  the 


200 


DANGERS    AND    PRECAUTIONS. 


h  '   V 


ii»i 


m 


boats  to  ask  for  more.  Being  somewhat  peremptory  and 
insolent  in  their  demands,  Mr.  limit  gave  them  a  flat  refusal 
and  threatened,  if  they  or  any  of  their  tribe  followed  him  with 
similar  demands,  to  treat  them  as  enemies.  They  turned  and 
rode  off*  in  a  furious  passion.  As  he  was  ignorant  what  force 
these  chiefs  might  have  behind  the  hills,  and  as  it  was  very 
possible  they  might  take  advantage  of  some  pass  of  the  river 
to  attack  the  boats,  Mr.  Hunt  called  all  stragglers  on  board 
and  prepared  for  such  emergency.  It  was  agreed  that  the 
large  boat  commanded  by  Mr.  Hunt,  should  ascend  along  the 
northeast  side  of  the  river,  and  the  three  smaller  boats  along 
the  south  side.  By  this  arrangement  each  party  would  com- 
mand a  view  of  the  opposite  heights  above  the  heads  and  out 
of  the  sight  of  their  companions,  and  could  give  the  alarm 
should  they  perceive  any  Indians  lurking  there.  The  signal 
of  alarm  was  to  be  two  shots  fired  in  quick  succession. 

The  boats  proceeded  for  the  greater  part  of  the  day  without 
seeing  any  signs  of  an  enemy.  About  four  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  the  large  boat,  commanded  by  Mr.  Hunt,  came  to 
where  the  river  was  divided  by  a  long  sand  bar,  which  appar- 
ently, however,  left  a  sufficient  channel  between  it  and  the 
shore  along  which  they  were  advancing.  He  kept  up  this 
channel,  therefore,  for  some  distance  until  the  water  proved 
too  shallow  for  the  boat.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to  put 
about,  return  down  the  chaimel,  and  pull  round  the  lower  end 
of  the  sand  bar  into  the  main  stream.  Just  as  he  had  given 
orders  to  this  efl!ect  to  his  men,  two  signal  guns  were  fired 
from  the  boats  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  At  the  same 
moment  a  file  of  savage  warriors  was  observed  pouring  down 
from  the  impending  bank  and  gathering  on  the  shore  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  bar.  They  were  evidently  a  war  party, 
being  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  battle  clubs  and  carbines, 


AN    INDIAN    WAR    PARTY. 


201 


and  round  bucklers  of  buffalo  hide,  and  their  naked  bodies 
were  painted  with  black  and  white  stripes.  The  natural  in- 
ference was  that  they  belonged  to  the  two  tribes  of  Sioux 
which  had  been  expected  by  the  great  war  party,  and  that 
they  had  been  invited  to  hostility  by  the  two  chiefs  who  had 
been  enraged  by  the  refusal  and  the  menace  of  Mr.  Hunt. 
Here  then  was  a  fearful  predicament.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  crew 
seemed  caught  as  it  were  in  a  trap.  The  Indians,  to  the 
number  of  about  a  hundred,  had  already  taken  possession  of  a 
point  near  which  the  boat  would  have  to  pass :  others  kept 
pouring  down  the  bank,  and  it  was  probable  that  some  would 
remain  posted  on  the  top  of  the  height. 

The  hazardous  situation  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  perceived  by 
those  in  the  other  boats  and  they  hastened  to  his  assistance. 
They  were  at  some  distance  above  the  sand  bar,  however, 
and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  saw,  with  intense 
anxiety,  the  number  of  savages  continually  augmenting,  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  channel,  so  that  the  boat  would  be  exposed 
to  a  fearful  attack  before  they  could  render  it  any  assistance. 
Their  anxiety  increased  as  they  saw  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party 
descending  the  channel  and  dauntlessly  approaching  the  point 
of  danger ;  but  it  suddenly  changed  into  surprise  on  beholding 
the  boat  pass  close  by  the  savage  horde  uiunolestcd,  and  steer 
out  safely  into  the  broad  river. 

The  next  moment  the  whole  band  of  warriors  was  in  motion. 
They  ran  along  the  bank  until  they  were  opposite  to  the  boats, 
then  throwing  by  their  weapons  and  buffalo  robes,  plunged 
into  the  river,  waded  and  swam  off  to  the  boats  and  surrounded 
them  in  crowds,  seeking  to  shake  hands  with  every  individual 
on  board,  for  the  Indians  have  long  since  found  this  to  be 
the  white  man's  token  of  amity,  and  they  carry  it  to  an 
extreme. 


m 


202 


A    FRIENDLY    ENCAMPMENT. 


ii 


:» 


:fl»il 


All  uneasiness  was  now  at  an  end.  The  Indians  proved  to 
be  a  war  party  of  Arickaras,  Mandans  and  Minnetarees,  con- 
sisting of  three  hundred  warriors,  and  bound  on  a  foray  against 
the  Sioux.  Their  war  plans  were  abandoned  for  the  present, 
and  they  determined  to  return  to  the  Arickara  town,  where 
they  hoped  to  obtain  from  the  white  men  arms  and  ammunition 
that  would  enable  them  to  take  the  field  with  advantage  over 
their  enemies. 

The  boats  now  sought  the  first  convenient  place  for  encamp- 
ing. The  tents  were  pitched ;  the  warriors  fixed  their  camp 
at  about  a  hundred  yards  distant ;  provisions  were  furnished 
from  the  boats  sufficient  for  all  parties ;  there  was  hearty 
though  rude  feasting  in  both  camps,  and  in  the  evening  the 
red  warriors  entertained  their  white  friends  with  dances  and 
songs,  that  lasted  until  after  midnight. 

On  the  following  morning  (July  3)  the  travellers  re-embark- 
ed, and  took  a  temporary  leave  of  their  Indian  friends,  who 
intended  to  proceed  immediately  for  the  Arickara  town,  Avhere 
they  expected  to  arrive  in  three  days,  long  before  the  boats 
could  reach  there.  Mr.  Himt  had  not  proceeded  far  before 
the  chief  came  galloping  along  the  shore  and  made  signs  for 
a  parley.  He  said,  his  people  could  not  go  home  satisfied 
unless  they  had  something  to  take  with  them  to  prove  that 
they  had  met  with  the  white  men.  Mr.  Hunt  understood  the 
drift  of  the  speech,  and  made  the  chief  a  present  of  a  cask  of 
powder,  a  bag  of  balls,  and  three  dozen  of  knives,  Avith  which 
he  Avas  highly  pleased.  While  the  chief  Avas  recei\'ing  these 
presents  an  Indian  came  running  along  the  shore  and  an- 
nounced that  a  boat,  filled  with  white  men,  Avas  coming  up  the 
river.  This  was  by  no  means  agreeable  tidings  to  Mr.  Hunt, 
who  correctly  concluded  it  to  be  the  boat  of  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa, 
and  he  was  vexed  to  find  that  alert  and  adventurous  trader 


¥  'ihsi'; 


PM  > 


APPROACH    OF   LISA. 


203 


s  proved  to 
tarees,  con- 
oray  against 
he  present, 
3wn,  where 
ammunition 
antage  over 

for  encamp- 
l  their  camp 
:e  furnished 
was  hearty 
evening  the 
dances  and 

re-embark- 
riends,  who 
own,  where 
e  the  boats 

far  before 
e  signs  for 
ne  satisfied 

prove  that 
erstood  the 
f  a  cask  of 
with  which 
iving  these 
•e  and  an- 
ting up  the 

Mr.  Hunt, 
anuel  Lisa, 
rous  trader 


upon  his  heels,  whom  he  had  hoped  to  have  out  manoeuvred, 
and  left  far  behind.  Lisa,  however,  was  too  much  experi- 
enced in  the  wiles  of  Indian  trade  to  be  lulled  by  the  promise 
of  waiting  for  him  at  the  Poncas  village  ;  on  the  contrary, 
he  had  allowed  himself  no  repose,  and  had  strained  every 
nerve  to  overtake  the  rival  party,  and  availing  himself  of  the 
moonlight,  had  even  sailed  during  a  considerable  part  of  the 
night.  In  this  he  was  partly  prompted  by  his  apprehensions 
of  the  Sioux,  having  met  a  boat  which  had  probably  passed 
Mr.  Himt's  party  in  the  night,  and  which  had  been  fired  into 
by  these  savages. 

On  hearing  that  Lisa  was  so  near  at  hand,  Mr.  Hunt 
perceived  that  it  was  useless  to  attempt  any  longer  to  evade 
him ;  after  proceeding  a  few  miles  further,  therefore,  he  came 
to  a  halt  and  waited  for  him  to  come  up.  In  a  little  while  the 
barge  of  Lisa  made  its  appearance.  It  came  sweeping  gently 
up  the  river,  manned  by  its  twenty  stout  oarsmen,  and  armed 
by  a  swivel  mounted  at  the  boAv.  The  whole  number  on 
board  amounted  to  twenty-six  men ;  among  whom  was  Mr. 
Henry  Brackenridge,  then  a  young,  enterprising  man ;  who 
was  a  mere  passenger,  tempted  by  notions  of  curiosity  to  ac- 
company Mr.  Lisa.  He  has  since  made  himself  known  by 
various  Avriting,  among  which  may  be  noted  a  narrative  of  this 
very  voyage. 

The  approach  of  Lisa,  while  it  was  regarded  with  uneasi- 
ness by  Mr.  Hunt,  roused  the  ire  of  M'Lellan ;  who  calling  to 
mind  old  grievances,  began  to  look  round  for  his  rifle,  as  if  he 
really  intended  to  carry  his  threat  into  execution  and  shoot  him 
on  the  spot ;  and  it  was  with  some  difficulty  that  Mr.  Hunt  was 
enabled  to  restrain  his  ire,  and  prevent  a  scene  of  outrage  and 
confusion. 


204 


MEETING    BETWEEN    OLD   RIVALS. 


I 


w 


» 


The  meeting  between  the  two  leaders,  thus  mutually  dis- 
trustful, could  not  be  very  cordial ;  and  as  to  Messrs.  Crooks 
and  M'Lellan,  though  they  refrained  from  any  outbreak,  yet 
they  regarded  in  grim  defiance  their  old  rival  and  underplotter. 
In  truth,  a  general  distrust  prevailed  throughout  the  party  con- 
cerning Lisa  and  his  intentions.  They  considered  him  artful 
and  slippery,  and  secretly  anxious  for  the  failure  of  their  expe- 
dition. There  being  now  nothing  more  to  be  apprehended 
from  the  Sioux,  they  suspected  that  Lisa  would  take  advantage 
of  his  twenty-oared  barge  to  leave  them  and  get  first  among  the 
Arickaras.  As  he  had  traded  with  those  people  and  possessed 
great  influence  over  them,  it  was  feared  he  might  make  use  of 
it  to  impede  the  business  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party.  It  was 
resolved,  therefore,  to  keep  a  sharp  look  out  upon  his  move- 
ments ;  and  M'Lellan  swore  that  if  he  saw  the  least  sign  of 
treachery  on  his  part,  he  would  instantly  put  his  old  threat 
into  execution. 

Notwithstanding  these  secret  jealousies  and  heart-burnings, 
the  two  parties  maintained  an  outward  appearance  of  civility, 
and  for  two  days  continued  forward  in  company  Avith  some 
degree  of  harmony.  On  the  third  day,  however,  an  explosion 
took  place,  and  it  was  produced  by  no  less  a  personage  than 
Pierre  Dorion,  the  half-breed  interpreter.  It  will  be  recol- 
lected that  this  worthy  had  been  obliged  to  steal  a  march  from 
St.  Louis,  to  avoid  being  arrested  for  an  old  whiskey  debt 
which  he  owed  to  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  and  by  which 
Mr.  Lisa  had  hoped  to  prevent  his  enlisting  in  Mr.  Hunt's  ex- 
pedition. Dorion,  since  the  arrival  of  Lisa,  had  kept  aloof  and 
regarded  him  with  a  sullen  and  dogged  aspect.  On  the  fifth 
of  July  the  two  parties  were  brought  to  a  halt  by  a  heavy  rain, 
and  remained  encamped  about  a  hundred  yards  apart.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  Lisa  undertook  to  tamper  with  the  faith  ot 


I  "1. 


?iii 


THE   RAGE    OF   PIERRE   DORION. 


205 


itually  (lis- 
irs.  Crooks 
;break,  yet 
iderplotter. 

party  con- 

liim  artful 
their  expe- 
iprehended 
3  advantage 
t  among  the 
I  possessed 
lake  use  of 
ty.     It  was 

his  move- 
iast  sign  of 

old  threat 

rt-burnings, 
of  civility, 
with  some 
I  explosion 
>nage  than 
be  recol- 
narch  from 
iskey  debt 
by  which 
hunt's  ex- 
aloof  and 
n  the  fifth 
leavy  rain, 
rt.  In  the 
ke  faith  ot 


Pierre  Dorion,  and,  inviting  him  on  board  of  his  boat,  regaled 
him  with  his  favorite  whiskey.  When  he  thought  liim  suffi- 
ciently mellowed,  he  proposed  to  him  to  quit  the  service  of  his 
new  employers  and  return  to  his  old  allegiance.  Finding  him 
not  to  be  moved  by  soft  words,  he  called  to  mind  his  old  debt  to 
the  company,  and  threatened  to  carry  him  ofF  by  force,  in  pay- 
ment of  it.  The  mention  of  this  debt  always  stirred  up  the 
gall  of  Pierre  Dorion,  bringing  with  it  the  remembrance  of  the 
whiskey  extortion.  A  violent  quarrel  arose  between  him  and 
Lisa,  and  he  left  the  boat  in  high  dudgeon.  His  first  step  was 
to  repair  to  the  tent  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  reveal  the  attempt  that 
had  been  made  to  shake  his  faith.  While  he  was  yet  talking 
Lisa  entered  the  tent,  under  the  pretext  of  coming  to  borrow  a 
towing  line.  High  words  instantly  ensued  between  him  and 
Dorion,  which  ended  by  the  half-breed's  dealing  him  a  blow. 
A  quarrel  in  the  "  Indian  country,"  however,  is  not  to  be  set- 
tled with  fisticufTs.  Lisa  immediately  rushed  to  his  boat  for 
a  weapon.  Dorion  snatched  up  a  pair  of  pistols  belonging  to 
Mr.  Hunt,  and  placed  himself  in  battle  array.  The  noise  had 
roused  the  camp,  and  every  one  pressed  to  know  the  cause. 
Lisa  now  reappeared  upon  the  field  with  a  knife  stuck  in  his 
girdle.  Mr.  Breckenridge,  who  had  tried  in  vain  to  mollify 
his  ire,  accompanied  him  to  the  scene  of  action.  Pierre  Dori- 
on's  pistols  gave  him  the  advantage,  and  he  maintained  a  most 
warlike  attitude.  In  the  meantime.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  had 
learnt  the  cause  of  the  affray,  and  were  each  eager  to  take  the 
quarrel  into  their  own  hands.  A  scene  of  uproar  and  hubbub 
ensued  that  defies  description.  M'Lellan  would  have  brought 
his  rifle  into  play  and  settled  all  old  and  new  grudges  by  a  pull 
of  the  trigger,  had  he  not  been  restrained  by  Mr.  Hunt.  That 
gentleman  acted  as  moderator,  endeavoring  to  prevent  a  gen- 
eral melee ;  in  the  midst  of  the  brawl,  however. 


18 


expres 


206 


A   GRAND   MELEE    PREVENTED. 


I'  '  i 

i 

■m 


sion  was  made  use  of  by  Lisa  derogatory  to  his  own  honor. 
In  an  instant,  the  tranquil  spirit  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  in  a  flame. 
He  now  became  as  eager  for  fight  as  any  one  on  the  ground, 
and  challenged  Lisa  to  settle  the  dispute  on  the  spot  Avith 
pistols.  Lisa  repaired  to  his  boat  to  arm  himself  for  the 
deadly  feud.  He  was  followed  by  Messrs.  Bradbury  and 
Breckenridge,  who,  novices  in  Indian  life  and  the  "  chivalry" 
of  the  frontier,  had  no  relish  for  scenes  of  blood  and  brawl. 
By  their  earnest  mediation  the  quarrel  was  with  great  difficulty 
brought  to  a  close  without  bloodshed ;  but  the  two  leaders 
of  the  rival  camps  separated  in  anger,  and  all  personal  inter- 
course ceased  between  them. 


* 


FEATURES  OF  THE  WILDERNESS. 


207 


CHAPTER  XX. 


Features  of  the  wilderness — herds  op  nuFFXLo — antelopes — their 

VARIETIES  AND  HABITS — JoHN  DaY — HIS  HUNTINO  STRATAGEM — INTER- 
VIEW WITH  THREE  AUICKARAS NEGOTIATIONS  BETWEEN  THE  RIVAL  PAR- 
TIES— THE    LeFTHANDED   AND  THE    BlO    MaN,    TWO  AkICKARA   CHIEFS 

ArICKARA     VILLAGE ITS     INHABITANTS CEREMONIALS    ON     LANDING A 

COUNCIL    LODGE — GRAND    CONFERENCE SPEECH    OF    LiSA — NEOOTUTIQM 

FOR   HORSES SHREWD  SUGGESTION  OF    GrAY  EyES,  AN  ArICKARA  CHIEF 

ENCAMPMENT    OP   THE   TRADING    PARTIES. 

The  rival  parties  now  coasted  along  the  opposite  sides  of  the 
river,  within  sight  of  each  other;  the  barges  of  Mr.  Hunt 
always  keeping  some  distance  in  the  advance,  lest  Lisa  should 
push  on  and  get  first  to  the  Arickara  village.  The  scenery 
and  objects,  as  they  proceeded,  gave  evidence  that  they  were 
advancing  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  domains  of  savage 
nature.  Boundless  wastes  kept  extending  to  the  eye,  more 
and  more  animated  by  herds  of  buffalo.  Sometimes  these 
unwieldy  animals  were  seen  moving  in  long  procession  across 
the  silent  landscape  ;  at  other  times  they  were  scattered  about, 
singly  or  in  groups,  on  the  broad  enamelled  prairies  and  green 
acclivities,  some  cropping  the  rich  pasturage,  others  reclining 
amidst  the  flowery  herbage  ;  the  whole  scene  realizing  in  a 
manner  the  old  scriptural  descriptions  of  the  vast  pastoral 
countries  of  the  Orient,  with  "  cattle  upon  a  thousand  hills." 
At  one  place  the  shores  seemed  absolutely  lined  with 
buflaloes ;  many  were  making  their  way  across  the  stream, 


w^^V^lt 

i    ;       III 

208 


ANTELOPES — THEIR    IIADIT9. 


snorting,  and  blowing,  and  lloundering.  Numbers,  in  spite 
of  every  eflbrt,  were  borne  by  the  rapid  current  within  shot  of 
the  boats,  and  several  were  killed.  At  another  place  a  num- 
ber were  descried  on  the  beach  of  a  small  island,  under  the 
shade  of  the  trees,  or  standing  in  the  water,  like  cattle,  to 
avoid  the  flies  and  the  heat  of  the  day. 

Several  of  the  best  marksmen  stationed  themselves  in  the 
bow  of  a  barge  which  advanced  slowly  and  silently,  stemming 
the  current  with  the  aid  of  a  broad  sail  and  a  fair  breeze. 
The  buflalo  stood  gazing  quietly  at  the  barge  as  it  approached, 
perfectly  unconscious  of  their  danger.  The  fattest  of  tlie  herd 
was  selected  by  the  hunters,  who  all  fired  together  and  brought 
down  their  victim. 

Beside  tlie  buffaloes  they  saw  abundance  of  deer,  and 
frequent  gangs  of  stately  elks,  together  with  light  troops  of 
sprightly  antelopes,  the  fleetest  and  most  beautiful  inhabitants 
of  the  prairies. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  antelopes  in  these  regions,  one 
nearly  the  size  of  the  common  deer,  the  other  not  much  larger 
than  a  goat.  Their  color  is  a  light  gray,  or  rather  dun,  slightly 
spotted  with  white ;  and  they  have  small  horns  like  those  of 
the  deer,  which  they  never  shed.  Nothing  can  surpass  the 
delicate  and  elegant  finish  of  their  limbs,  in  which  lightness, 
elasticity,  and  strength,  are  wonderfully  combined.  All  the 
attitudes  and  movements  of  this  beautiful  animal  are  graceful 
and  picturesque ;  and  it  is  altogether  as  fit  a  subject  for  the 
fanciful  uses  of  the  poet,  as  the  oft  sung  gazelle  of  the  east. 

Their  habits  are  shy  and  capricious  ;  they  keep  on  the  open 
plains,  are  quick  to  take  the  alarm,  and  bound  away  with  a 
fleetness  that  defies  pursuit.  When  thus  skimming  across  a 
prairie  in  the  autumn,  their  light  gray  or  dun  color  blends  with 
the  hue  of  the  withered  herbage,  the  swiftness  of  their  motion 


EXPLOIT   OF    JOHN    DAY. 


209 


bailies  the  rye,  and  they  almost  seem  unsubstantial  forms, 
driven  hko  gossamer  hrl'oro  the  wind. 

While  tlicy  thus  keep  to  the  open  plain  and  tujsf  to  their 
speed,  they  arc  safe  ;  but  they  have  a  pruiitnf  <  uriosiiy  ''i;it 
sometimes  betrays  them  to  their  ruin.  W'Immi  tiuy  Jiavc  scud 
for  some  distance  and  lel't  their  pursuer  beiiiiuf^  'hey  will  sud- 
denly stop  and  turn  to  fjaze  at  the  object  of  their  d  irm.  If 
the  pursuit  is  not  followed  up  thry  will,  after  a  time,  yield  to 
their  irwpiisitive  haiikeriii<r,  and  return  to  the  place  from 
Avhencc  they  have  bi'en  frightened. 

John  Day,  the  veteran  hunter  already  mentioned,  displayed 
liis  experieneo  and  skill  in  entrappin^r  one  of  these  beautiful 
animals.  'l'akin<f  advantajjo  of  its  well  known  curiosity,  he 
laid  down  Hat  among  the  grass,  and  putting  his  handkerchief 
on  the  end  of  his  ramrod,  waved  it  gently  in  the  air.  This 
had  the  ell'ect  of  the  fabled  fascination  of  the  rattle  snake 
The  antelope  gazed  at  the  mysterious  object  for  some  time  at 
a  distance,  then  approached  tinudly,  pausing  and  reconnoi- 
tring with  increased  curiosity ;  moving  round  the  point  of 
attraction  in  a  circle,  but  still  drawing  nearer  and  nearer, 
until,  being  within  tlie  range  of  the  deadly  rifle,  he  fell  a 
victim  to  his  curiosity. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  as  the  party  were  making  brisk  pro- 
gress with  a  tine  breeze,  they  met  a  canoe  with  three  Indians 
descending  the  river.  They  came  to  a  parley,  and  brought 
news  from  the  Arickara  village.  The  war  party,  which  had 
caused  such  alarm  at  the  sand  bar,  had  reached  the  village 
some  days  previously,  announced  the  approach  of  a  party  of 
traders,  and  displayed  with  great  ostentation  the  presents  they 
had  received  from  them.  On  further  conversation  with  these 
three  Indians,  Mr.  Hunt  learnt  the  real  danger  which  he  had 

run,  when  hemmed  up  within  the  sand  bar.     The  Mandans 

18* 


rv, 


\i  I- 


I)  '• 


210 


AN    EMBASSY — NEGOTIATIONS. 


who  were  of  the  war  party,  when  they  saw  the  boat  so  com- 
pletely entrapped  and  apparently  within  their  power,  had  been 
eager  for  attacking  it,  and  securing  so  rich  a  prize.  The 
Minatarees,  also,  were  nothing  loth,  feeling  in  some  measure 
committed  in  hostility  to  the  whites,  in  consequence  of  their 
tribe  having  killed  two  white  men  above  the  fort  of  the  Mis- 
souri Fur  Company.  Fortunately,  the  Arickaras  who  formed 
the  majority  of  the  war  party,  proved  true  in  their  friendship 
to  the  whites  and  prevented  any  hostile  act,  otherwise  a  bloody 
affray,  and  perhaps  a  horrible  massacre,  might  have  ensued. 

On  the  11th  of  June,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  en- 
camped near  an  island  about  six  miles  below  the  Arickara 
village.  Mr.  Lisa  encamped,  as  usual,  at  no  great  distance ; 
but  the  same  sullen  and  jealous  reserve,  and  non-intercourse 
continued  between  them.  Shortly  after  pitching  the  tents, 
Mr.  Breckenridge  made  his  appearance  as  an  cimbassador  from 
the  rival  camp.  He  came  on  behalf  of  his  companions,  to 
arrange  the  manner  of  making  their  entrance  into  the  village 
and  of  receiving  the  chiefs ;  for  every  thing  of  the  kind  is  a 
matter  of  grave  ceremonial  among  the  Indians. 

The  partners  now  expressed  frankly  their  deep  distrust  of  the 
intentions  of  Mr.  Lisa,  and  their  apprehensions,  that,  out  of  the 
jealousy  of  trade,  and  resentment  of  recent  disputes,  he  might 
seek  to  instigate  the  Arickaras  against  them.  Mr.  Brecken- 
ridge assured  them  that  their  suspicions  were  entirely  ground- 
less, and  pledged  himself  that  nothing  of  the  kind  should 
take  place.  He  found  it  difficult,  however,  to  remove  their 
distrust ;  the  conference,  therefore,  ended  without  producing 
any  cordial  understanding ;  and  M'Lellan  recurred  to  his  old 
threat  of  shooting  Lisa  the  instant  he  discovered  any  tiling 
like  treachery  in  his  proceedings. 

That  night  the  rain  fell  in  torrents,  accompanied  by  thunder 


TWO  CHIEFS  AND  A  CREOLE  INTERPRTER.     211 


»at  SO  com- 
r,  had  been 
rize.     The 
le  measure 
ce  of  their 
if  the  Mis- 
^ho  formed 
friendship 
ie  a  bloody- 
ensued, 
mions  en- 
i  Arickara 
distance ; 
ntercourse 
the  tents, 
sador  from 
anions,  to 
he  village 
kind  is  a 

rust  of  the 
out  of  the 
he  might 
Brecken- 
y  ground- 
d  should 
3ve  their 
)roducing 
3  his  old 
ny  tiling 

'  thunder 


and  lightning.  The  camp  was  deluged,  and  the  bedding  and 
baggage  drenched.  All  hands  embarked  at  an  early  hour, 
and  set  forward  for  the  village.  About  nine  o'clock,  when 
half  way,  they  met  a  canoe,  on  board  of  which  were  two 
Arickara  dignitaries.  One,  a  fine  looking  man,  much  above 
the  common  size,  was  hereditary  chief  of  the  village  ;  he  was 
called  the  Lefthanded,  on  account  of  a  personal  peculiarity. 
The  other,  a  ferocious  looking  savage,  was  the  war  chief, 
or  generalissimo;  he  was  known  by  the  name  of  the  Biff 
Man,  an  appellation  he  well  deserved  from  his  size,  for  he 
was  of  a  gigantic  frame.  Both  were  of  fairer  complexion 
than  is  usual  with  savages. 

They  were  accompanied  by  an  interpreter;  a  French 
Creole ;  one  of  those  haphazard  wights  of  Gallic  origin,  who 
abound  upon  our  frontier,  living  among  the  Indians  like  one 
of  their  own  race.  He  had  been  twenty  years  among  the 
Arickaras,  had  a  squaw  and  a  troop  of  piebald  children,  and 
officiated  as  interpreter  to  the  chiefs.  Through  this  worthy 
organ  the  two  dignitaries  signified  to  Mr.  Hunt  their  sovereign 
intention  to  oppose  the  further  progress  of  the  expedition  up 
the  river  unless  a  boat  were  left  to  trade  with  them.  Mr. 
Hunt,  in  reply,  explained  the  object  of  his  voyage,  and  his 
intention  of  debarking  at  their  village  and  proceeding  thence 
by  land ;  and  that  he  woidd  willingly  trade  with  them  for  a 
supply  of  horses  for  his  journey.  With  this  explanation  they 
were  perfectly  satisfied,  and  putting  about,  steered  for  their 
village  to  make  preparations  for  the  reception  of  the  strangers. 

The  village  of  the  Rikaras,  Arickaras,  or  Ricarces,  for  the 
name  is  thus  variously  written,  is  between  the  46th  and  47th 
parallels  of  north  latitude,  and  fourteen  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  The  party  reached 
it  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  but  landed  on  the  opposite 


212 


THE    ARICKARA   VILLAGE. 


1. 


n 


mm 


n 


side  of  the  river,  where  they  spread  out  their  baggage  and 
effects  to  dry.  From  hence  they  commanded  an  excellent 
view  of  the  village.  It  was  divided  into  two  portions,  about 
eighty  yards  apart,  being  inhabited  by  two  distinct  bands.  The 
whole  extended  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  along  the  river 
bank,  and  was  composed  of  conical  lodges,  that  looked  like 
so  many  small  hillocks,  being  wooden  frames  intertwined  with 
osier,  and  covered  with  earth.  The  plain  beyond  the  village 
swept  up  into  hills  of  considerable  height,  but  the  whole 
country  was  nearly  destitute  of  trees.  While  they  were  re- 
garding the  village,  they  beheld  a  singular  fleet  coming  down 
the  river.  It  consisted  of  a  number  of  canoes,  each  made 
of  a  single  buffalo  hide  stretched  on  sticks,  so  as  to  form  a 
kind  of  circular  trough.  Each  one  was  navigated  by  a  single 
squaw,  who  knelt  in  the  bottom  and  paddled ;  towing  after 
her  frail  bark  a  bundle  of  floating  wood  intended  for  firing. 
This  kind  of  canoe  is  in  frequent  use  among  the  Indians ; 
the  buffalo  hide  being  readily  made  up  into  a  bundle  and 
transported  on  horseback ;  it  is  very  serviceable  in  conveying 
baggage  across  the  rivers. 

The  great  number  of  horses  grazing  around  the  village,  and 
scattered  over  the  neighboring  hills  and  valleys,  bespoke  the 
equestrian  habits  of  the  Arickaras,  who  are  admirable  horse- 
men. Indeed,  in  the  number  of  his  horses  consists  the  wealth 
of  an  Indian  of  the  prairies ;  who  resembles  an  Arab  in  his 
passion  for  this  noble  animal,  and  in  his  adroitness  in  the 
management  of  it. 

After  a  time,  the  voice  of  the  sovereign  chief,  "  the  Left- 
handed,"  was  heard  across  the  river,  announcing  that  the 
council  lodge  was  preparing,  and  inviting  the  Avhite  men  to 
come  over.  The  river  was  half  a  mile  in  width,  yet  every 
word  uttered  by  the  chieftain  was  heard ;  this  may  be  partly 


LANDING    AT   THE    VILLAGE. 


213 


aggage  and 
n  excellent 
'tions,  about 
)ands.  The 
ig  the  river 
looked  like 
twined  with 

the  village 

the  whole 
By  were  re- 
aming down 

each  made 
s  to  form  a 

by  a  single 

owing  after 

1  for  firing. 

e  Indians ; 

bundle  and 

conveying 

illage,  and 
)espoke  the 
ible  horse- 
the  wealth 
rab  in  his 
ess  in  the 

'  the  Left- 
y  that  the 
te  men  to 
yet  every 
be  partly 


attributed  to  the  distinct  manner  in  which  every  syllable  of 
the  compouhd  words  in  the  Indian  languages  is  articulated 
and  accented ;  but  in  truth,  a  savage  warrior  might  often  rival 
Achilles  himself  for  force  of  lungs.* 

Now  came  the  delicate  point  of  management ;  how  the  two 
rival  parties  were  to  conduct  their  visit  to  the  village  with 
proper  circumspection  and  due  decorum.  Neither  of  the 
leaders  had  spoken  to  each  other  since  their  quarrel.  All  com- 
munication had  been  by  ambassadors.  Seeing  the  jealousy 
entertained  of  Lisa,  Mr.  Breckenridge,  in  his  negociation, 
had  arranged  that  a  deputation  from  each  party  should  cross 
the  river  at  the  same  time,  so  that  neither  would  have  the 
first  access  to  the  ear  of  the  Arickaras. 

The  distrust  of  Lisa,  however,  had  increased  in  proportion 
as  they  approached  the  sphere  of  action,  and  M'Lellan  in 
particular,  kept  a  vigilant  eye  upon  his  motions,  swearing  to 
shoot  him  if  he  attempted  to  cross  the  river  first. 

About  two  o'clock  the  large  boat  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  manned, 
and  he  stepped  on  board,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  M'Kenzie 
and  M'Lellan  ;  Lisa  at  the  same  time  embarked  in  his  barge  ; 
the  two  deputations  amounted  in  all  to  fourteen  persons,  and 
never  was  any  movement  of  rival  potentates  conducted  with 
more  wary  exactness. 

Thev  landed  amidst  a  rabble  crowd,  and  were  received  on 
the  bank  by  the  lefthanded  chief,  who  conducted  them  into 
the  village  with  grave  courtesy ;  driving  to  the  right  and  left 
the  swarms  of  old  squaws,  imp-like  boys,  and  vagabond  dogs, 
with  which  the  place  abounded.  They  wound  their  way 
between  the  cabins  which  looked  like  dirt-heaps  huddled 
together  without  any  plan,  and  surrounded  by  old  palisades ; 
all  filthy  in  the  extreme,  and  redolent  of  .illanous  smells. 

♦  Bradbury.    P.  110. 


MH 

HP"' 

i^H 

lp'' 

m 

j|:,|' 

^'^H^H 

■ "'  1 

i;  ''1  i 

i' '  [\  " 

K;'-:l| 

1 

ll'  '< 


IP 


liiii 


mwm 


214 


THE    COUNCIL   LODGE. 


At  length  they  arrived  at  the  council  lodge.  It  was  some- 
what spacious,  and  formed  of  four  forked  trunks  of  trees  placed 
upright,  supporting  cross  beams  and  a  frame  of  poles  inter- 
woven with  osiers,  and  the  whole  covered  with  earth.  A  hole 
sunken  in  the  centre  formed  the  fireplace,  and  immediately 
above  was  a  circular  hole  in  the  apex  of  the  lodge,  to  let  out 
the  smoke  and  let  in  the  daylight.  Around  the  lodge  were 
recesses  for  sleeping,  like  the  berths  on  board  ships,  screened 
from  view  by  curtains  of  dressed  skins.  At  the  upper  end 
of  the  lodge  Avas  a  kind  of  hunting  and  warlike  trophy  con- 
sisting of  two  buffalo  heads  garishly  painted,  surmounted  by 
shields,  bows,  quivers  of  arrows,  and  other  weapons. 

On  entering  the  lodge  the  chief  pointed  to  mats  or  cushions 
which  had  been  placed  around  for  the  strangers,  and  on  which 
they  seated  themselves,  while  he  placed  himself  on  a  kind 
of  stool.  An  old  man  then  came  forward  with  the  pipe  of 
peace  or  good  fellowship,  lighted  and  handed  it  to  the  chief, 
and  then  falling  back,  squatted  himself  near  the  door.  The 
pipe  was  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth,  each  one  taking  a 
whiff,  which  is  equivalent  to  the  inviolable  pledge  of  faith, 
of  taking  salt  together  among  the  ancient  Britons.  The 
chief  then  made  a  sign  to  the  old  pipebearer,  who  seemed 
to  fill,  likewise,  the  station  of  herald,  seneschal,  and  public 
crier,  for  he  ascended  to  the  top  of  the  lodge  to  make  procla- 
mation. Here  he  took  his  post  beside  the  aperture  for  the 
emission  of  smoke,  and  the  admission  of  light ;  the  chief 
dictated  from  within  what  he  was  to  proclaim,  and  he  bawled 
it  forth  with  a  force  of  lungs  that  resounded  over  all  the 
village.  In  this  way  he  summoned  the  warriors  and  great 
men  to  council ;  every  now  and  then  reporting  progress  to  his 
chief  through  the  hole  in  the  roof. 

In  a  little  while  the  braves  and  sages  began  to  enter  one 


W 


t  was  some- 
trees  placed 
poles  inter- 
rth.  A  hole 
immediately 
e,  to  let  out 

lodge  were 
ps,  screened 
3  upper  end 

trophy  con- 
rmounted  by 
ns. 

i  or  cushions 
nd  on  which 
if  on  a  kind 

the  pipe  of 
to  the  chief, 

door.  The 
ne   taking  a 

ge  of  faith, 
•itons.     The 

vho  seemed 
and  public 

nake  procla- 

ture  for  the 
the   chief 

1  he  bawled 

)ver  all  the 
and  great 

(gress  to  his 

0  enter  one 


THE    SPEECH    OF    LISA. 


215 


by  one  as  their  names  were  called  or  announced,  emerging 
from  under  the  buffalo  robe  suspended  over  the  entrance 
instead  of  a  door,  stalking  across  the  lodge  to  the  skins  placed 
on  the  floor  and  crouching  down  on  them  in  silence.  In  this 
way  twenty  entered  and  took  their  seats,  forming  an  assem- 
blage worthy  of  the  pencil ;  for  the  Arickaras  are  a  noble  race 
of  men,  large  and  well  formed,  and  maintain  a  savage  grandeur 
and  gravity  of  demeanor  in  their  solemn  ceremonials. 

All  being  seated,  the  old  seneschal  prepared  the  pipe  of 
ceremony  or  council  and  having  lit  it,  handed  it  to  the  chief. 
He  inhaled  the  sacred  smoke,  gave  a  puflf  upward  to  the 
heaven,  then  downward  to  the  earth,  then  towards  the  east ; 
after  this  it  was  as  usual  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth,  each 
holding  it  respectfully  until  his  neighbor  had  taken  several 
whiffs ;  and  now  the  grand  council  was  considered  as  opened 
in  due  form. 

The  chief  made  an  harangue  welcoming  the  white  men  to 
his  village,  and  expressing  his  happiness  in  taking  them  by 
the  hand  as  friends ;  but  at  the  same  time  complaining  of  the 
poverty  of  himself  and  his  people ;  the  usual  prelude  among 
Indians  to  begging  or  hard  bargaining. 

Lisa  rose  to  reply,  and  the  eyes  of  Hunt  and  his  com- 
panions were  eagerly  turned  upon  him,  those  of  M'Lellan 
glaring  like  a  basilisks.  He  began  by  the  usual  expressions 
of  friendship,  and  then  proceeded  to  explain  the  object  of  his 
own  party.  Those  persons,  however,  said  he,  pointing  to  Mr. 
Hunt  and  his  companions,  are  of  a  different  party,  and  are  quite 
distinct  in  their  views  ;  but,  added  he,  though  we  are  separate 
parties  we  make  but  one  common  cause  when  the  safety  of 
either  is  concerned.  Any  injury  or  insult  offered  to  them  I 
shall  consider  as  done  to  myself,  and  will  resent  it  accordingly. 
I  trust,  therefore,  that  you  will  treat  them  with  the  same 


111   , 

m 
llill  1: 


216 


H0NE3T  EXPEDIENT  OP  THE  GRAY  EYES. 


!!■  .1 


* 


friendship  that  you  have  always  manifested  for  me,  doing 
every  thing  in  your  power  to  serve  them  and  to  help  them 
on  their  way.  The  speech  of  Lisa,  delivered  with  an  air  of 
frankness  and  sincerity,  agreeably  surprised  and  disappointed 
the  rival  party. 

Mr.  Hunt  then  spoke  declaring  the  object  of  his  journey  to 
the  great  Salt  lake  beyond  the  mountains,  and  that  he  should 
want  horses  for  the  purpose,  for  which  he  was  ready  to  trade, 
having  brought  with  him  plenty  of  goods.  Both  he  and  Lisa 
concluded  their  speeches  by  making  presents  of  tobacco. 

The  lefthanded  chieftain  in  reply  promised  his  friendship 
and  aid  to  the  new  comers,  and  welcomed  them  to  his  village. 
He  added  that  they  had  not  the  number  of  horses  to  spare 
that  Mr.  Hunt  required,  and  expressed  a  doubt  whether  they 
should  be  able  to  part  with  any.  Upon  this,  another  chief- 
tain, called  Gray  Eyes,  made  a  speech  and  declared  that 
they  could  readily  supply  Mr.  Hunt  with  all  the  horses  he 
might  want,  since,  if  they  had  not  enough  in  the  village,  they 
could  easily  steal  more.  This  honest  expedient  immediately 
removed  the  main  difficulty ;  but  the  chief  deferred  all  trading 
for  a  day  or  two,  until  he  should  have  time  to  consult  with  his 
subordinate  chiefs,  as  to  market  rates ;  for  the  principal  chief 
of  a  village,  in  conjunction  with  his  council,  usually  fixes  the 
prices  at  which  articles  shall  be  bought  and  sold,  and  to  them 
the  village  must  conform. 

The  council  now  broke  up.  Mr.  Hunt  transferred  his  camp 
across  the  river  at  a  little  distance  below  the  village  and  the 
lefthanded  chief  placed  some  of  his  warriors  as  a  guard  to 
prevent  the  intrusion  of  any  of  his  people.  The  camp  was 
pitched  on  the  river  bank  just  above  the  boats.  The  tents 
and  the  men  wrapped  in  their  blankets  and  bivouacking  on 
skins  in  the  open  air,  surrounded  the  baggage  at  night.     Four 


'ES. 

r  me,  doing 
0  help  them 
ith  an  air  of 
disappointed 

!s  journey  to 
It  he  should 
ady  to  trade, 
he  and  Lisa 
obacco. 
is  friendship 
3  his  village, 
ses  to  spare 
i^hether  they 
lother  chief- 
eclared  that 
B  horses  he 
village,  they 
immediately 
d  all  trading 
suit  with  his 
ncipal  chief 
Uy  fixes  the 
and  to  them 


HARMONY    IN   THE    CAMP. 


217 


sentinels  also  kept  watch  within  sight  of  each  other  outside 
of  the  camp  until  midnight,  when  they  were  relieved  by 
four  others  who  mounted  guard  until  daylight.  Mr.  Lisa 
encamped  near  to  Mr.  Hunt,  between  him  and  the  village. 

The  speech  of  Mr.  Lisa  in  the  council  had  produced  a 
pacific  effect  in  the  encampment.  Though  the  sincerity  of  his 
friendship  and  good  will  towards  the  new  company  still  re- 
mained matter  of  doubt,  he  was  no  longer  suspected  of  an 
intention  to  play  false.  The  intercourse  between  the  two 
leaders  was,  therefore,  resumed,  and  the  afl^airs  of  both  parties 
went  on  harmoniously. 


19 


ed  his  camp 
age  and  the 
a  guard  to 
}  camp  was 
The  tents 
macking  on 
ight.     Four 


i ;    I 


^M 


m 


i  F 


218 


AN    INDIAN    HORSE    FAIR. 


CHAPTER    XXI 


ill 


An  Indian  horse  fair — love  op  the  Indians  for  horses — scenes'  in 
THE  Arickara  village — Indian  hospitality — duties  of  Indian  wo- 
men  GAME  HAP'TS  op  THE   MEN THEIR  INDOLENCE — LOVE  OF  (JOSSII'INU 

rumors  of  lurking  enemies scouts an  alarm a  sallying  forth 

— Indian  dogs — return  of  a  horse-stealing  party — an  Indian  dep- 
utation— FRESH  ALARMS — RETURN  OF  A  SUCCESSFUL  WAR  PARTY — DRKSS 

OP    THE    ArICKARAS InDIAN    TOILET TRIUMPHAL    ENTRY     OF    THE    WAR 

PARTY — MEETINGS    OF    RELATIONS    AND    FRIENDS — InDIAN    SENSIBILITY 

MEETING    OF    A    WOUNDED    WARRIOR    AND    HIS    MOTHER FESTIVITIES    AND 

LAMENTATIONS. 

A  TRADE  now  commenced  with  the  Arickaras  under  the  regu- 
lation and  supervision  of  their  two  chieftains.  Lisa  sent  a 
part  of  his  goods  to  the  lodge  of  the  lefthanded  dignitary,  and 
Mr.  Hunt  established  his  mart  in  the  lodge  of  the  Big  Man. 
The  village  soon  presented  the  appearance  of  a  busy  fair ;  and 
as  horses  were  in  demand,  the  purlieus  and  the  adjacent  plain 
were  like  the  vicinity  of  a  Tartar  encampment ;  horses  were 
put  through  all  their  paces,  and  horsemen  were  careering  about 
with  that  dexterity  and  grace  for  which  the  Arickaras  are 
noted.  As  soon  as  a  horse  was  purchased,  his  tail  was  crop- 
ped, a  sure  mode  of  distinguishing  him  from  the  horses  of  the 
tribe ;  for  the  Indians  disdain  to  practise  this  absurd,  barba- 
rous, and  indecent  mutilation,  invented  by  some  mean  and 
vulgar  mind,  insensible  to  tbp  merit  and  perfections  of  the 
animal.    On  the  contrary,  the  Indian  horses  are  suffered  to 


INDIAN    HORSES. 


219 


— scrnes  in 
Indian  wo- 
w  cjossii'ino 
lying  forth 
Indian  bep- 

tllTV — DRESS 
OF    THE    WAR 

ENSIBILITY 

nVITIES    AND 

t  the  regu- 
isa  sent  a 
nitary,  and 
Big  Man. 
f  fair ;  and 
icent  plain 
orses  were 
iring  about 
ckaras  are 

was  crop- 
'ses  of  the 
ard,  barba- 

mean  and 
)ns  of  the 

luffered  to 


remain  in  every  respect  the  superb  and  beautiful  animals 
which  nature  formed  them. 

The  wcahh  of  an  Indian  of  the  far  west  consists  principally 
in  his  horses,  of  which  each  chief  and  warrior  possesses  a 
great  number,  so  that  the  plains  about  an  Indian  village  or 
encampment  are  covered  with  them.  These  form  objects  of 
traffic,  or  objects  of  depredation,  and  in  this  way  pass  from 
tribe  to  tribe  over  great  tracts  of  country.  The  horses  owned 
by  the  Arickaras  are,  for  the  most  part,  of  the  wild  stock  of 
the  prairies ;  some,  however,  had  been  obtained  from  the  Pon- 
cas.  Pawnees,  and  other  tribes  to  the  southwest,  who  had 
stolen  them  from  the  Spaniards  in  the  course  of  horse-stealing 
expeditions  into  the  Mexican  territories.  These  were  to  be 
known  by  being  branded ;  a  Spanish  mode  of  marking  horses 
not  practised  by  the  Indians 

As  the  Arickaras  were  meditating  another  expedition  against 
their  enemies  the  Sioux,  the  articles  of  traffic  most  in  demand 
were  guns,  tomahawks,  scalping  knives,  powder,  ball,  and 
other  munitions  of  war.  The  price  of  a  horse,  as  regulated 
by  the  chiefs,  was  commonly  ten  dollars  worth  of  goods  at 
first  cost.  To  supply  the  demand  thus  suddenly  created,  par- 
ties of  young  men  and  braves  had  sallied  forth  on  expeditions 
to  steal  horses  ;  a  species  of  service  among  the  Indians  which 
takes  precedence  of  hunting,  and  is  considered  a  department 
of  honorable  warfare. 

While  the  leaders  of  the  expedition  were  actively  engaged 
in  preparing  for  the  approaching  journey,  those  who  had  ac- 
companied it  for  curiosity  or  amusement,  found  ample  matter 
for  observation  in  the  village  and  its  inhabitants.  Wherever 
they  went  they  were  kindly  entertained.  If  they  entered  a 
lodge,  the  buHalo  robe  was  spread  before  the  fire  for  them  to 
sit  down ;  the  pipe  was  brought,  and  while  the  master  of  the 


*--!i 


ri 


m 


220 


DOMESTIC    LIFE    OF    AN    INDIAN. 


lodge  conversed  with  his  guests,  the  squaw  put  the  earthen 
vessel  over  tlie  fire,  well  lilled  with  dried  buffalo  meat  and 
pounded  corn ;  for  the  Indian  in  his  native  state,  before  ho 
has  mingled  much  with  white  men,  and  acquired  their  sordid 
habits,  has  the  hospitality  of  the  Arab :  never  does  a  stranger 
enter  his  door  without  having  food  placed  before  him ;  and 
never  is  the  food  thus  furnished  made  a  matter  of  traffic. 

The  life  of  an  Indian  when  at  home  in  his  village  is  a  lile 
of  indolence  and  amusement.  To  the  woman  is  consigned 
the  labors  of  the  household  and  the  field ;  she  arrange.^*  the 
lodge ;  brings  wood  for  the  fire ;  cooks ;  jerks  venison  and 
buffalo  meat ;  dresses  the  skins  of  the  animals  killed  in  the 
chase  ;  cultivates  the  little  patch  of  maize,  pumpkins,  and  pulse, 
which  furnishes  a  great  part  of  their  provisions.  Their  time 
for  repose  and  recreation  is  at  sunset,  when  the  labors  of  the 
day  being  ended,  they  gather  together  to  amuse  themselves 
with  petty  games,  or  to  hold  gossiping  convocations  on  the 
tops  of  their  lodges. 

As  to  the  Indian,  he  is  a  game  animal,  not  to  be  degraded 
by  useful  or  menial  toil.  It  is  enough  that  he  exposes  him- 
self to  the  hardships  of  the  chase  and  the  perils  of  war ;  that 
he  brings  home  food  for  his  family,  and  watches  and  fights  for 
its  protection.  Every  thing  else  is  beneath  his  attention. 
When  at  home,  he  attends  only  to  his  weapons  and  his  horses, 
preparing  the  means  of  future  exploit.  Or  he  engages  with 
his  comrades  in  games  of  dexterity,  agility  and  strength  ;  or  in 
gambling  games  in  which  every  thing  is  put  at  hazard,  with  a 
recklessness  seldom  witnessed  in  civilized  life. 

A  great  part  of  the  idle  leisure  of  the  Indians  when  at  home, 
is  passed  in  groups,  squatted  together  on  che  bank  of  a  river, 
on  the  top  of  a  mound  on  the  prairie,  or  on  the  roof  of  one  of 
their  earth-covered  lodges,  talking  over  the  news  of  the  day. 


RUMORS    OF    LURKING    FOES. 


221 


le  earthen 
meat  and 
before  ho 
tieir  sordid 
a  stranger 
him ;  and 
afflc. 

ge  is  a  lile 
consigned 
ranges  the 
onison  and 
lied  in  the 
,  and  pulse, 
Their  time 
ibors  of  the 
themselves 
ins  on  the 

degraded 
Iposes  him- 

war ;  that 
id  fights  for 

attention. 

I  his  horses, 

rages  with 

ligth  ;  or  in 

lard,  with  a 

|n  at  home, 
1  of  a  river, 
of  one  of 
)f  the  day. 


the  aflairs  of  the  tribe,  the  events  and  exploits  of  their  last 
hunting  or  fighting  expedition ;  or  listening  to  the  stories  of 
old  times  told  by  some  veteran  chronicler ;  resembling  a  group 
of  our  village  quidnuncs  and  politicians,  listening  to  the  pro- 
sings  of  some  superannuated  oracle,  or  discussing  the  contents 
of  an  ancient  newspaper. 

As  to  the  Indian  women,  they  are  far  from  complaining  of 
their  lot.  On  the  contrary,  they  would  despise  their  husbands 
could  they  stoop  to  any  menial  oflice,  and  would  think  it  con- 
veyed an  imputation  upon  their  own  conduct.  It  is  the  worst 
insult  one  virago  can  cast  upon  another  in  a  moment  of  alter- 
cation. *'  Infamous  woman  I"  will  she  cry,  "  I  have  seen 
your  husband  carrying  wood  into  his  lodge  to  make  the  fire 
Where  was  his  squaw,  that  he  should  be  obliged  to  make  a 
woman  of  himself!" 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  fellow  travellers  had  not  been  many  days 
at  the  Arickara  village,  when  rumors  began  to  circulate  that  the 
Sioux  had  followed  them  up,  and  that  a  war  party,  four  or  five 
hundred  in  number,  were  lurking  somewhere  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. These  rumors  produced  much  embarrassment  in  the 
camp.  The  white  hunters  were  deterred  from  venturing  forth 
in  quest  of  game,  neither  did  the  leaders  think  it  proper  to  ex- 
pose them  to  such  risk.  The  Arickaras,  too,  who  had  suffered 
greatly  in  their  wars  with  this  cruel  and  ferocious  tribe,  were 
roused  to  increased  vigilance,  and  stationed  mounted  scouts 
upon  the  neighboring  hills.  This,  however,  is  a  general  pre- 
caution among  the  tribes  of  the  prairies.  Those  immense 
plains  present  a  horizon  like  the  ocean,  so  that  any  object  of 
importance  can  be  descried  afar,  and  information  communi- 
cated to  a  great  distance.  The  scouts  are  stationed  on  the 
hills,  therefore,  to  look  out  both  for  game  and  for  enemies,  and 

are,  in  a  manner,  living  telegraphs  conveying  their  intelligence 

19* 


;.'il 


*'ii 


222 


A    8ALLYIN0    FORTH. 


W™ 


1'^ 


11^ 


by  concerted  sijins.  If  they  wish  to  jfive  notice  of  a  herd  of 
buiVuIo  in  tl»o  phiin  beyond,  they  yaUop  backwards  ami  for- 
wards abreast,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  If  they  perceive  an 
enemy  at  hand,  they  gallop  to  and  fro,  crossing  each  other ; 
at  sight  of  which,  the  whole  village  Hies  to  arms. 

Such  an  alarm  was  given  in  the  afternoon  of  the  15th. 
Four  scouts  were  seen  crossing  and  recrossing  each  other  at 
full  gallop,  on  the  sunnnit  of  a  hill  about  two  miles  distant 
down  the  river.  The  cry  was  up  that  the  Sioux  were  coming. 
In  an  instant  the  village  was  in  an  uproar.  Men,  women  and 
children  were  all  brawling  and  shouting ;  dogs  barking,  yelp- 
ing and  howling.  Some  of  the  warriors  ran  for  the  horses  to 
gather  and  drive  them  in  from  the  prairie,  some  for  their 
weapons.  As  fast  as  they  could  arm  and  equip  they  sallied 
forth ;  some  on  horseback,  some  on  foot.  Some  hastily  ar- 
rayed in  their  war  dress,  with  coronets  of  fluttering  feathers, 
and  their  bodies  smeared  with  paint ;  others  naked  and  only 
furnished  with  the  weapons  they  had  snatched  up.  The 
women  and  children  gathered  on  the  tops  of  the  lodges  and 
heightened  the  confusion  of  the  scene  by  their  vociferation. 
Old  men  who  could  no  longer  bear  arms  took  similar  stations, 
and  harangued  the  warriors  as  they  passed,  exhorting  them 
to  valorous  deeds.  Some  of  the  veterans  took  arms  them- 
selves, and  sallied  forth  with  tottering  steps.  In  this  way, 
the  savage  chivalry  of  the  village  to  the  immber  of  five  hun- 
dred, poured  forth,  belter  skelter,  riding  and  running,  with 
hideous  yells  and  war-whoops,  like  so  many  bedlamites  or 
demoniacs  let  loose. 

After  a  while  the  tide  of  war  rolled  back,  but  with  far  less 
uproar.  Either  it  had  been  a  false  alarm,  or  the  enemy  had  re- 
treated on  finding  themselves  discovered,  and  quiet  was  restored 
to  the  village.     The  white  hunter  continuing  to  be  fearful  of 


INDIAN  D008 — TRIUMPHANT  MORSE  STEALERS. 


223 


a  lierd  of 
8  and  for- 
erccivo  an 
ich  other ; 

the  15th. 
r.h  other  at 
Ics  distant 
re  coming, 
vomen  and 
king,  yelp. 
13  horses  to 
3  for  their 
liey  sallied 
hastily  ar- 
g  feathers, 
1  and  only 
up.      The 
odges  and 
aciferation. 
ar  stations, 
rting  them 
rms  them- 
this  way, 
five  hun- 
ting, with 
amites  or 


h  far  less 
ny  had  re- 
is  restored 
fearful  of 


ranging  this  dangerous  neighborhood,  fresh  provisions  began 
to  be  scarce  in  the  camp.  As  a  substitute,  therefore,  for 
venison  and  bullalo  meat,  the  travellers  had  to  purchase  a 
number  of  dogs  to  be  shot  and  cooked  for  the  supply  of  the 
camp.  Fortunately,  however  chary  the  Indians  might  be  of 
their  horses,  they  were  lil)cral  of  their  dogs.  In  fact,  these 
animals  swarm  about  an  Indian  village  as  they  do  about  a 
Turkish  town.  Not  a  family  but  has  two  or  three  dozen 
belonging  to  it,  of  all  sizes  and  colors ;  some,  of  a  superior 
breed,  are  used  for  hunting ;  others,  to  draw  the  sledge,  while 
others,  of  a  mongrel  breed,  and  idle  vagabond  nature,  are 
fattened  for  lood.  They  are  supposed  to  be  descended  from 
the  wolf,  and  retain  something  of  his  savage  but  cowardly 
temper,  howling  rather  than  barking  ;  showing  their  teeth  and 
snarUng  on  the  slightest  provocation,  but  sneaking  away  on 
the  least  attack. 

The  excitement  of  the  village  continued  from  day  to  day. 
On  the  day  following  the  alarm  just  mentioned,  several  parties 
arrived  from  dilFerent  directions,  and  were  met  and  conducted 
by  some  of  the  braves  to  the  council  lodge,  where  they  re- 
ported the  events  and  success  of  their  expeditions,  whether 
of  war  or  hunting ;  which  news  was  afterwards  promulgated 
throughout  the  village,  by  certain  old  men  who  acted  as 
heralds  or  town  criers.  Among  the  parties  which  arrived  was 
one  that  had  been  among  the  Snake  nation  stealing  horses,  and 
returned  crowned  with  success.  As  they  passed  in  triumph 
through  the  village  they  were  cheered  by  the  men,  women, 
and  children,  collected  as  usual  on  the  tops  of  the  lodges, 
and  were  exhorted  by  the  Nestors  of  the  village  to  be  generous 
in  their  dealings  with  the  white  men. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  feasting  and  rejoicing  among  the 
relations  of  the  successful  warriors  ;  but  sounds  of  grief  and 


1       '  .  -; 

Ih 

i 

!' ' 

'  '?i 

rmM 


h 

b 

'I 

I 

>  ■ 

!■ 

t 

1       ; 

1               -J 

;( 

? 

224 


DEPARTURE    OF    CHEYENNES. 


wailing  were  heard  from  the  hills  adjacent  to  the  village : 
the  lamentations  of  women  Avho  had  lost  some  relative  in 
the  foray. 

An  Indian  village  is  subject  to  continual  agitations  and 
excitements.  The  next  day  arrived  a  deputation  of  braves 
from  the  Cheyenne  or  Shienne  nation ;  a  broken  tribe,  cut  up, 
like  the  Arickaras,  by  wars  with  the  Sioux,  and  driven  to 
take  refuge  among  the  Black  hills,  near  the  sources  of  the 
Cheyenne  river,  from  which  they  derive  their  name.  One 
of  these  deputies  was  magnificently  arrayed  in  a  buffalo  robe, 
on  which  various  figures  were  fancifully  embroidered  with 
split  quills  dyed  red  and  yellow ;  and  the  whole  was  fringed 
with  the  slender  hoofs  of  young  fawns,  that  rattled  as  he 
walked. 

The  arrrival  of  this  deputation  was  the  signal  for  another 
of  those  ceremonials  which  occupy  so  much  of  Indian  life ; 
for  no  being  is  more  courtly  and  punctilious,  and  more  observ- 
ant of  etiquette  and  formality  than  an  American  savage. 

The  object  of  the  deputation  was  to  give  notice  of  an 
intended  visit  of  the  Shienne  (or  Cheyenne)  tribe  to  the 
Arickara  village  in  the  course  of  fifteen  days.  To  this  visit 
Mr.  Hunt  looked  forward,  to  procure  additional  horses  for  his 
journey ;  all  his  bargaining  being  inefl^ectual  hi  obtaining  a 
sufficient  supply  from  the  Arickaras.  Indeed  nothing  could 
prevail  upon  the  latter  to  part  with  their  prime  horses,  which 
had  been  trained  to  buffalo  hunting. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  would  have  to  abandon  his  boats  at  this  place, 
Mr.  Lisa  now  offered  to  purchase  them,  and  such  of  his 
merchandise  as  was  superfluous,  and  to  pay  him  in  horses,  to 
be  obtained  at  a  fort  belonging  to  the  Missouri  Fur  Company 
situated  at  the  Mandan  villages,  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  further  up  the  river.     A  bargain  was  promptly  made, 


RETURN    OF    A    WAR    PARTY. 


the  village : 
relative  in 

tations  and 
ri  of  braves 
ribe,  cut  up, 
d  driven  to 
trees  of  the 
lame.  One 
buffalo  robe, 
idered  with 
was  fringed 
,ttled  as  he 

for  another 
Indian  life ; 
nore  observ- 
•age. 

otice  of  an 
ribe  to  the 
Ho  this  visit 
Tses  for  his 
obtaining  a 
ithing  could 
•rses,  which 

t  this  place, 
luch  of  his 
1  horses,  to 
ir  Company 
d  and  fifty 
nptly  made, 


and  Mr.  Lisa  and  Mr.  Crooks,  with  several  companions,  set 
out  for  the  fort  to  procure  the  horses.  They  returned,  after 
upwards  of  a  fortnight's  absence,  bringing  with  them  the  stipu- 
lated  number  of  horses.  Still  the  cavalry  was  not  sufficiently 
numerous  to  convey  the  party  and  the  baggage  and  merchan- 
dise, and  a  few  days  more  were  required  to  complete  the 
arrangements  for  the  journey. 

On  the  9th  of  July,  just  before  daybreak,  a  great  noise  and 
vociferation  was  heard  in  the  village.  This  being  the  usual 
Indian  hour  of  attack  and  surprise,  and  the  Sioux  being  known 
to  be  in  the  neighborhood,  the  camp  was  instantly  on  the 
alert.  As  the  day  broke  Indians  were  descried  in  considerable 
number  on  the  bluffs,  three  or  four  miles  down  the  river. 
The  noise  and  agitation  in  the  village  continued.  The  tops 
of  the  lodges  were  crowded  with  the  inhabitants,  all  earnestly 
looking  towards  the  hills,  and  keeping  up  a  vehement  chatter- 
ing. Presently  an  Indian  warrior  galloped  past  the  camp 
towards  the  village,  and  in  a  little  while  the  legions  began 
to  pour  forth. 

The  truth  of  the  matter  was  now  ascertained.  The  Indians 
upon  the  distant  hills  were  three  hundred  Arickara  braves, 
returning  from  a  foray.  They  had  met  the  war  party  of 
Sioux  who  had  been  so  long  hovering  about  the  neighborhood, 
had  fought  with  them  the  day  before,  killed  several,  and 
defeated  the  rest  with  the  loss  of  but  two  or  three  of  their 
own  men  and  about  a  dozen  wounded ;  and  they  were  now 
halting  at  a  distance  until  their  comrades  in  the  village  should 
come  forth  to  meet  them,  and  swell  the  parade  of  their  tri- 
umphal entry.  The  warrior  who  had  galloped  past  the  camp 
was  tlio  leader  of  the  party  hastening  home  to  give  tidings 
of  his  victory. 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  this  great  martial  cere- 


m 


m 


: 

r^' 

T 

I  ;  ■ 

J     , 

' 

r'  ' 


226 


ARICKARA    DRESS — INDIAN   TOILET. 


mony.  All  the  finery  and  equipments  of  the  warriors  were 
sent  forth  to  them,  that  they  might  appear  to  the  greatest 
advantage.  Those,  too,  who  had  remained  at  home,  tasked 
their  wardrobes  and  toilets  to  do  honor  to  the  procession. 

The  Arickaras  generally  go  naked,  but,  like  all  savages, 
they  have  their  gala  dress  of  which  they  are  not  a  little  vain. 
This  usually  consists  of  a  gay  surcoat  and  leggings  of  the 
dressed  skin  of  the  antelope,  resembling  chamois  leather,  and 
embroidered  with  porcupine  quills  brilliantly  dyed.  A  buffalo 
robe  is  thrown  over  the  right  shoulder,  and  across  the  left  is 
slung  a  quiver  of  arrows.  They  wear  gay  coronets  of  plumes, 
particularly  those  of  the  swan ;  but  the  feathers  of  the  black 
eagle  are  considered  the  most  worthy,  being  a  sacred  bird 
among  the  Indian  warriors.  He  who  has  killed  an  enemy  in 
his  own  land,  is  entitled  to  drag  at  his  heels  a  fox-skin 
attached  to  each  moccasin ;  and  he  who  has  slain  a  grizzly 
bear,  wears  a  necklace  of  his  claws,  the  most  glorious  trophy 
that  a  hunter  can  exhibit. 

An  Indian  toilet  is  an  operation  of  some  toil  and  trouble ; 
the  warrior  often  has  to  paint  himself  from  head  to  foot,  and 
is  extremely  capricious  and  difficult  to  please,  as  to  the 
hideous  distribution  of  streaks  and  colors.  A  great  part  of 
the  morning,  therefore,  passed  away  before  there  were  any 
signs  of  the  distant  pageant.  In  the  meantime  a  profound 
stillness  reigned  over  the  village.  Most  of  the  inhabitants 
had  gone  forth ;  others  remained  in  mute  expectation.  All 
sports  and  occupations  were  suspended,  excepting  that  in  the 
lodges  the  painstaking  squaws  were  silently  busied  preparing 
the  repasts  for  the  warriors. 

It  was  near  noon  that  a  mingled  sound  of  voices  and  rude 
music  faintly  heard  from  a  distance,  gave  notice  that  the  pro- 
cession was  on  the  march.     The  old  men  and  such  of  the 


TRIUMPHANT    PROCESSION. 


227 


squaws  as  could  leave  their  employments  hastened  forth  to 
meet  it.  In  a  little  while  it  emerged  from  behind  a  hill,  and 
had  a  wild  and  picturesque  appearance  as  it  came  moving  over 
the  summit  in  measured  step,  and  to  the  cadence  of  songs 
and  savage  instruments ;  the  warlike  standards  and  trophies 
flaunting  aloft,  and  the  feathers,  and  paint,  and  silver  orna- 
ment of  the  warriors  glaring  and  glittering  in  the  sunshine. 

The  pageant  had  really  something  chivalrous  in  its  arrange- 
ment. The  Arickaras  are  divided  into  several  bands,  each 
bearing  the  name  of  some  animal  or  bird,  as  the  buffalo,  the 
bear,  the  dog,  the  pheasant.  The  present  party  consisted  of 
four  of  these  bands,  one  of  which  was  the  dog,  the  most 
esteemed  in  war,  being  composed  of  young  men  under  thirty, 
and  noted  for  prowess.  It  is  engaged  on  the  most  desperate 
occasions.  The  bands  marched  in  separate  bodies  under  their 
several  leaders.  The  warriors  on  foot  came  first,  in  platoons 
of  ten  or  twelve  abreast ;  then,  the  horsemen.  Each  band 
bore  as  an  ensign  a  spear  or  bow  decorated  with  beads, 
porcupine  quills  and  painted  feathers.  Each  bore  its  trophies 
of  scalps,  elevated  on  poles,  their  long  black  locks  streaming 
in  the  wind.  Each  was  accompanied  by  its  rude  music  and 
minstrelsy.  In  this  way  the  procession  .  xtended  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  mile.  The  warriors  were  variously  armed,  some 
few  with  gims,  others  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  war  clubs, 
all  had  shields  of  buffalo  hide,  a  kind  of  defence  generally 
used  by  the  Indians  of  the  open  prairies,  who  have  not  the 
covert  of  trees  and  forests  to  protect  them.  They  were 
painted  in  the  most  savage  style.  Some  had  the  stamp  of  a 
red  hand  across  their  mouths,  a  sign  that  they  had  drunk  the 
lifeblood  of  a  foe  ! 

As  they  drew  near  to  the  village  the  old  men  and  the 
women  began  to  meet  them,  and  now  a  scene  ensued  that 


t.--^ 


228 


THE    YOUNG    WARRIOR    AND    HIS    MOTHER. 


#iJ! 


9.1 

I' 
1(' 


r* 


proved  the  fallacy  of  the  old  fable  of  Indian  apathy  and 
stoicism.  Parents  and  children,  husbands  and  wives,  brothers 
and  sisters  met  with  the  most  rapturous  expressions  of  joy ; 
while  wailings  and  lamentations  were  heard  from  the  relatives 
of  the  killed  and  wounded.  The  procession,  however,  con- 
tinued on  with  slow  and  measured  step,  in  cadence  to  the 
solemn  chaunt,  and  the  warriors  maintained  their  fixed  and 
stern  demeanor. 

Between  two  of  the  principal  chiefs  rode  a  young  warrior 
who  had  distinguished  himself  in  the  battle.  He  was  severely 
wounded,  so  as  with  difficulty  to  keep  on  his  horse ;  but  he 
preserved  a  serene  and  steadfast  countenance,  as  if  perfectly 
unharmed.  His  mother  had  heard  of  his  condition.  She 
broke  through  the  throng,  and  rushing  up,  threw  her  arms 
around  him  and  wept  aloud.  He  kept  up  the  spirit  and 
demeanor  of  a  warrior  to  the  last,  but  expired  shortly  after 
he  had  reached  his  home. 

The  village  was  now  a  scene  of  the  utmost  festivity  and 
triumph.  The  banners,  and  trophies,  and  scalps,  and  painted 
shields  were  elevated  on  poles  near  the  lodges.  There  were 
war-feasts,  and  scalp-dances,  with  warlike  songs  and  savage 
music ;  all  the  inhabitants  were  arrayed  in  their  festal  dresses  ; 
while  the  old  heralds  went  round  from  lodge  to  lodge,  pro- 
mulgating with  loud  voices  the  events  of  the  battle  and  the 
exploits  of  the  various  warriors. 

Such  was  the  boisterous  revelry  of  the  village  ;  but  sounds 
of  another  kind  were  heard  on  the  surrounding  hills  ;  piteous 
wailings  of  the  women,  who  had  retired  thither  to  mourn  in 
darkness  and  solitude  for  those  who  had  fallen  in  battle.  There 
the  poor  mother  of  the  youthful  warrior  who  had  returned 
home  in  triumph  but  to  die,  gave  full  vent  to  the  anguish  of  a 
mother's  heart.      How  much  does  this   custom  among  the 


apathy  and 
ies,  brothers 
ions  of  joy ; 
the  relatives 
>wever,  con- 
ence  to  the 
ir  fixed  and 

mng  warrior 
vas  severely 
rse ;  but  he 
if  perfectly 
ition.  She 
IV  her  arms 
}  spirit  and 
shortly  after 


LAMENTATIONS    AMONG    THE    HILLS. 


229 


Indian  women  of  repairing  to  the  hill  tops  in  the  night,  and 
pouring  forth  their  waitings  for  the  dead,  call  to  mind  the 
beautiful  and  affecting  passage  of  Scripture,  "  In  Rama  was 
there  a  voice  heard,  lamentation,  and  weeping  and  great 
mourning,  Rachel  weeping  for  her  children,  and  would  not 
be  comforted,  because  they  are  not." 


20 


festivity  and 
and  painted 
There  were 
and  savage 
ital  dresses ; 
I  lodge,  pro- 
ttle  and  the 


but  sounds 
lis ;  piteous 
0  mourn  in 
.ttle.  There 
ad  returned 
nguish  of  a 
among  the 


i 


m. 


' ).' 


230 


WILDERNESS    OF    THE    FAR    WEST. 


CHAPTER   XXII, 


:;r  ^^  ^'^' 


]::%-'i 


i   '  f< 


!  i 


Wilderness    of  the   far   west — great  American   desert — rAEciiED 
SEASONS — Black  hills — Rocky  mountains — wandering  and  pkeda- 

TORY  HORDES — SPECULATIONS  ON  WHAT  MAY  BE  THE  FUTURE  rOI'ULA- 
TION — APPREHENDED  DANGERS — A  PLOT  TO  DESERT — RoSE  THE  INTER- 
PRETER  HIS  SINISTER  CHARACTER DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  ArICKARA 

VILLAGE. 

While  Mr.  Hunt  was  diligently  preparing  for  his  arduous 
journe^ ,  some  of  his  men  began  to  lose  heart  at  the  perilous 
prospect  before  them ;  but,  before  we  accuse  them  of  want 
of  spirit,  it  is  proper  to  consider  the  nature  of  the  wilderness 
into  which  they  were  about  to  adventure.  It  was  a  region 
almost  as  vast  and  trackless  as  the  ocean,  and,  at  the  time 
of  which  we  treat,  but  little  known,  excepting  through  the 
vague  accounts  of  Indian  hunters.  A  part  of  their  route  would 
lay  across  an  immense  tract  stretching  north  and  south  for 
hundreds  of  miles  along  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and 
drained  by  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Missouri  and  the 
Mississippi.  This  region,  which  resembles  one  of  the  im- 
measurable steppes  of  Asia,  has  not  inaptly  been  termed  "  the 
great  American  desert."  It  spreads  forth  into  undulating  and 
treeless  plains,  and  desolate  sandy  wastes,  wearisome  to  the 
eye  from  their  extent  and  monotony,  and  which  are  supposed 
by  geologists,  to  have  formed  the  ancient  floor  of  the  ocean, 


PLAINS    AND    MOUNTAINS. 


231 


r — rAECJiF.D 

VXD    rHEDA- 

rk  i'opv  la- 
the inter- 
;  Arickaka 


arduous 

perilous 

of  want 

r^ilderness 

a  region 

the  time 

ough  the 

lite  would 

south  for 

:ains,  and 

and   the 

the  im- 

led  "the 

iting  and 

le  to  the 

supposed 

le  ocean, 


countless  ages  since,  when  its  primeval  waves  beat  against 
the  granite  bases  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

It  is  a  land  where  no  man  permanently  abides ;  for,  in 
certain  seasons  of  the  year  there  is  no  food  either  for  the 
hunter  or  his  steed.  The  herbage  is  parched  and  withered  ; 
the  brooks  and  streams  are  dried  up  ;  the  buffalo,  the  elk  and 
deer  have  wandered  to  distant  parts,  keeping  within  the  verge 
of  expiring  verdure,  and  leaving  behind  them  a  vast  uninhabited 
solitude,  seamed  by  ravines,  the  beds  of  former  torrents,  but 
now  serving  only  to  tantalize  and  increase  the  thirst  of  the 
traveller. 

Occa.sionally  the  monotony  of  this  vast  wilderness  is  inter- 
rupted by  mountainous  belts  of  sand  and  limestone,  broken 
into  confused  masses ;  with  precipitous  cliffs  aud  yawning 
ravines,  looking  like  the  ruins  of  a  world ;  or  is  traversed  by 
lofty  and  barren  ridges  of  rock,  almost  impassable,  like  those 
denominated  the  Black  hills.  Beyond  these  rise  the  stern 
barriers  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  limits,  as  it  were,  of  the 
Atlantic  world.  The  rugged  defiles  and  deep  valleys  of  this 
vast  chain  form  sheltering  places  for  restless  and  ferocious 
bands  of  savages,  many  of  them  the  remnants  of  tribes,  once 
inhabitants  of  the  prairies,  but  broken  up  by  war  and  violence, 
and  who  carry  into  their  mountain  haunts  the  fierce  passions 
and  reckless  habits  of  desperadoes. 

Such  is  the  nature  of  this  immense  wilderness  of  the  far 
west ;  which  apparently  defies  cultivation,  and  the  habitation 
of  civilized  life.  Some  portions  of  it  along  the  rivers  may 
partially  l)e  subdued  by  agriculture,  others  may  form  vast 
pastoral  tracts,  like  those  of  the  cast ;  but  it  is  to  be  feared 
that  a  great  part  of  it  will  form  a  lawless  interval  between 
the  abodes  of  civilized  man,  like  the  wastes  of  the  ocean  or 
the  deserts  of  Arabia ;    and,  like   them,  be    subject   to    the 


i 

i  • '  '\ 

'I'l 

';,:' 

1 M 

■;  ■ 

jj 

^i^yi 

\i 

HH 

r?KjB 

''*>*qH 

'.  iH 

^ 

.1 

H 

1 

1 

232 


FUTURE  PEOPLE  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 


depredations  of  the  marauder.  Here  may  spring  up  new  and 
mongrel  races,  like  new  formations  in  geology,  the  amalgama- 
tion of  the  "  debris"  and  "  abrasions"  of  former  races,  civilized 
and  savage  ;  the  remains  of  broken  and  almost  extinguished 
tribes ;  the  descendants  of  wandering  hunters  and  trappers ; 
of  fugitives  from  the  Spanish  and  American  frontiers ;  of 
adventurers  and  desperadoes  of  every  class  and  country,  yearly 
ejected  from  the  bosom  of  society  into  the  wilderness.  We 
are  contributing  incessantly  to  swell  this  singular  and  hetero- 
geneous cloud  of  Avild  population  that  is  to  hang  about  our 
frontier,  by  the  transfer  of  whole  tribes  of  savages  from  the 
east  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  great  wastes  of  the  far  west. 
Many  of  these  bear  with  them  the  smart  of  real  or  fancied 
injuries  ;  many  consider  themselves  expatriated  beings,  wrong- 
fully exiled  from  their  hereditary  homes,  and  the  sepulchres 
of  their  fathers,  and  cherish  a  deep  and  abiding  animosity 
against  the  race  that  has  dispossessed  them.  Some  may 
gradually  become  pastoral  hordes,  like  those  rude  and  mi- 
gratory people,  half  shepherd,  half  warrior,  who,  with  their 
flocks  and  herds,  roam  the  plains  of  upper  Asia ;  but,  others, 
it  is  to  be  apprehended,  will  become  predatory  bands,  mounted 
on  the  fleet  steeds  of  the  prairies,  with  the  open  plains  for 
their  marauding  grounds,  and  the  mountains  for  their  retreats 
and  lurking  places.  Here  they  may  resemble  those  great 
hordes  of  the  north ;  "  Gog  and  Magog  with  their  bands,"  that 
haunted  the  gloomy  imaginations  of  the  prophets.  "  A  great 
company  and  a  mighty  host,  all  riding  upon  horses,  and  warring 
upon  those  nations  which  were  at  rest,  and  dwelt  peaceably, 
and  had  gotten  cattle  and  goods." 

The  Spaniards  changed  the  whole  character  and  habits  of 
the  Indians  when  they  brought  the  horse  among  them.  In 
Chili,  Tucumau  and  other  parts,  it  has  converted  them,  wc 


fea,, 


BODERS    OF    ILL    LUCK. 


233 


new  and 
lalgaina- 
civilizcd 
iiguislied 
:rappers ; 
iers ;    of 
y,  yearly 
ss.     We 
i  hetcro- 
iboiit  our 
Irom  the 
far  west, 
r  fancied 
;s,  Avrong- 
epidchres 
mimosity 
)me  may 
and  mi- 
ith  their 
',  others, 
mounted 
ains  for 
retreats 
ise  great 
ids,"  that 
A  great 
warring 
!aceably. 

labits  of 
em.  In 
lem,  wc 


are  tokl,  into  Tartar-like  tribes,  and  enabled  them  to  keep  the 

Spaniards  out  of  their  country,  and  even  to  make  it  dangerous 

for  them  to  venture  far  from  their  towns  and  settlements.     Arc 

we  not  in  danger  of  producing  some  such  state  of  things  in 

the  boundless  regions  of  the  far  west  ?     That  these  arc  not 

mere  fanciful  and  extravagant  suggestions  we  have  suflicient 

proofs  in  the  dangers  already  experienced  by  the  traders  to 

the  Spanish  mart  of  Santa  Fd,  and  to  the  distant  po.sts  of  the 

fur   companies.      These   are   obliged    to    proceed   in   armed 

caravans,  and  are  subject  to  murdcjrous   attacks  from  bands 

of  Pawnees,  Camanches  and  Blackfeet,  that  come   scouring 

upon  them  in  their  weary  march  across  the  plains,  or  lie  in 

wait  for  them  among  the  passes  of  the  mountains. 

We  are  wandering,  however,  into  excursive  speculations, 

when  our  intention  was  merely  to  give  an  idea  of  the  nature 

of  the  wilderness  which  Mr.  Hunt  was  about  to  traverse  ;  and 

which  at  that  time  was  far  less  known  than  at  present ;  though 

it  still  remains  in  a  great  measure  an  unknown  land.     We 

cannot  be  surprised,  therefore,  that  some  of  the  least  resolute 

of  his  party  should  feel  dismay  at  the  thoughts  of  adventuring 

into  this  perilous  wilderness  under   the  uncertain   guidance 

of  three  hunters,  who  had  merely  passed  once  through  the 

country   and   might    have   forgotten   the    landmarks.      Their 

apprehensions  were  aggravated  by  some  of  Lisa's  followers, 

who,  not  being  engaged  in  the  expedition,  took  a  mischievous 

pleasure  in  exaggerating  its  dangers.     They  painted  in  strong 

colors,  to  the  poor  Canadian  voyagcurs,  the  risk  they  would 

run  of  perishing  with  hunger  and  thirst ;  of  being  cut  off  by 

war-parties  of  the  Sioux  who  scoured  the  plains ;  of  having 

their  horses  stolen  by  the  Upsarokas  or  Crows,  who  infested 

the  skirts  of  the  Rocky  mountains ;  or  of  being  butchered  by 

the  Blackfeet,  who  lurked  among  the  defiles.      In  a  word, 

20* 


234 


EDWARD    ROSE,    THE    INTERPRETER. 


\i' 


I 


t;-!' 


m 


thcro  was  little  clmncc  of  their  gottin^j  alive  across  the  moun- 
tains ;  and  even  if  they  did,  those  three  guides  knew  nothing 
of  the  howling  wilderness  that  lay  beyond. 

'J'lu!  apprehensions  thus  awakened  in  the  minds  of  some 
of  the  men  came  well  nigh  proving  detrimental  to  the  expe- 
dition. Sonu!  of  them  detennined  to  desert,  and  to  make  their 
way  back  to  St.  Loins.  Tiu-'y  accordingly  pm-loined  several 
weaj)ons  and  a  barrel  of  gunpowder,  as  anununition  for  their 
enterprise,  and  buried  them  in  the  river  bank,  intending  to 
seize  one  of  the  boats  and  make  oil'  in  the  night.  Fortunately 
their  plot  was  overheard  by  .John  Day,  the  Kentuckian.  ami 
communicated  to  the  partners,  who  took  quiet  and  ell'ectual 
means  to  frustrate  it. 

The  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  the  Crow  Indians  had 
not  been  overrated  by  the  camp  gossips.  These  .savages, 
through  whose  mountain  haunts  the  party  woidd  have  to  pass, 
were  noted  for  daring  and  excursive  habits,  and  great  dexterity 
in  horse  stealing.  Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  considered  himself 
fortunate  in  having  met  with  a  man  who  miglit  l)e  of  great 
use  to  him  in  any  intercoiu-se  he  might  have  with  the  tribe. 
This  was  a  wandering  individual  luuneu  Edward  Rose,  whom 
he  had  picked  up  somewhere  on  the  Missouri — one  of  those 
anomalous  beings  foimd  on  the  frontier,  who  seem  to  have 
neither  kin  nor  country.  He  had  lived  some  time  among  the 
Crows,  so  as  to  become  acquainted  with  their  language  and 
customs ;  and  was,  withal,  a  dogged,  sullen,  silent  fellow, 
with  a  sinister  aspect,  and  more  of  the  savage  than  the  civil- 
ized man  in  his  appearance.  He  was  engaged  to  serve  in 
general  as  a  hunter,  but  as  guide  and  interpreter  when  they 
should  reach  the  country  of  the  Crows. 

On  the  18th  of  July,  Mr.  Hunt  took  up  his  line  of  march 
by  land  from  the  Arickara  village,  leaving  Mr.  Lisa  and  Mr. 


DEPARTURE    FROM    THE    ARITKARAS. 


235 


Nuttall  there,  where  they  intended  to  await  the  expected 
arrival  of  Mr.  Henry  from  the  Rocky  mountains.  As  to  Messrs. 
Bradbury  and  Dre(  kenridge,  thc^y  liad  departed  some  days 
previously,  on  a  voyage  down  the  river  to  St.  Louis,  with  a 
detachment  from  Mr.  Lisa's  party.  With  all  his  exertions, 
Mr.  Hunt  iiad  been  unable  to  obtain  a  sullicient  number  of 
horses  for  the  accommodation  of  all  his  people.  His  caval- 
cade consisted  of  eighty-two  horses,  most  of  them  heavily 
laden  with  Itjdian  goods,  beaver  traps,  annnunition,  Indian 
corn,  corn  meal  and  other  necessaries.  Each  of  the  partners 
was  mounted,  and  a  horse  was  allotted  to  the  interpreter, 
Pierre  Dorion,  for  the  transportation  of  his  luggage  and  lus 
two  children.  His  squaw,  for  the  most  part  of  the  time, 
trudged  on  foot,  like  the  residue  of  the  party ;  nor  did  any 
of  the  men  show  more  patience  and  fortitude  than  this  resolute 
woman  in  enduring  fatigue  and  hardship. 

The  veteran  trappers  and  voyageurs  of  Lisa's  party  shook 
their  heads  as  their  comrades  set  out,  and  took  leave  of  them 
as  of  doomed  men ;  and  even  Lisa  himself,  gave  it  as  his 
opinion,  after  the  travellers  had  departed,  that  they  woidd 
never  reach  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  but  would  either  perish 
with  hunger  in  the  wilderness,  or  be  cut  off  by  the  savages. 


:  I 


230 


SUMMER    WEATHER    OF    THE    I'llAlRIES. 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 


SaMMEB     WEATHER     OK     THE     PRAIRIES — PURITY     OK     THE    ATMOSPHERE — 

Canadians    on    the   march — sickness    in    the   camp — Biu    river- 
vulgar     NOMENCLATURE — SUGGESTIONS     AHOUT     THT.     ORIGINAL     InDIAN 

names CAMP     OF     ChEYENNES — TRADE     FOR     HORSES — CHARACTER     OF 

THE     ChEYENNES THEIR     HORSEMANSHIP HISTORICAL     ANECDOTES      OK 

THE   TRIBE. 

The  course  taken  by  Mr.  Hunt  was  at  first  to  the  north 
west,  but  soon  turned  and  kept  generally  to  the  southwest, 
to  avoid  the  country  infested  by  the  Blackfeet.  His  route 
took  him  across  some  of  the  tributary  streams  of  tlic  Missouri, 
and  over  immense  prairies,  bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  and 
destitute  of  trees.  It  was  now  the  height  of  summer,  and 
these  naked  plains  would  be  intolerable  to  the  traveller  were 
it  not  for  the  breezes  which  sweep  over  then:  during  the 
fervor  of  the  day,  bringing  with  them  tempering  airs  from  the 
distant  mountains.  To  the  prevalence  of  these  breezes,  and 
to  the  want  of  all  leafy  covert,  may  Ave  also  attribute  tlie 
freedom  from  those  flies  and  other  insects  so  tormenting  to 
man  and  beast  during  the  summer  months,  in  the  lower  plains, 
which  are  bordered  and  interspersed  with  woodland. 

The  monotony  of  these  immense  landscapes,  also,  would  be 
as  wearisome  as  that  of  the  ocean,  were  it  not  relieved  in 
some  degree  by  the  purity  and  elasticity  of  the  atmosphere, 
and  the  beauty  of  the  heavens.     The  sky  has  that  delicious 


CANADIANS    IN    CAMP — rilEERFUL    DRl'DCiES. 


237 


OSPHERE — 
I!      IIIVEK— 

:\i,    Indian 

RACTER      OF 
;CDOTES      OP 

he  north 
outhwest, 
His  route 
Missouri, 
rizon,  anil 
imer,  and 
eller  were 
uring  the 

from  the 
czes,  and 
ribute  tlie 
lenting  to 

or  plains, 

would  be 

;lieved  in 

nosphcre, 

delicious 


blue  for  wliich  the  sky  of  Italy  is  rrnownod ;  the  sun  shines 
with  a  splendor,  unobstured  by  any  cloud  or  vapor,  and  a 
starlight  night  on  the  prairies  is  glorious.  'I'his  purity  and 
elasticity  of  atmosphere  increases  as  the  traveller  approaches 
the  mountains,  and  gradually  rises  into  the  more  olevat«'d 
prairies. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  journey,  Mr.  Hunt  arranged  llic 
party  into  small  and  convenient  messes,  distributing  antong 
them  the  camp  kettles.  Tlu!  encampments  at  night  were  a>< 
before  ;  some  sleeping  luider  tents,  and  others  bivouacking  in 
the  open  air.  The  Canadians  proved  as  patient  of  toil  and 
hardship  on  the  land  as  on  the  water ;  indeiMl,  nothing  could 
surpass  the  patience  and  good-liumor  of  these  men  upon  the 
march.  They  were  the  cheerful  drudges  of  the  party,  loading 
and  unloading  the  horses,  pitching  the  tents,  making  tlie  fires, 
cooking ;  in  short,  performing  all  those  household  and  menial 
ofFices  which  the  Indians  usually  assign  to  the  squaws  ;  and, 
like  the  squaws,  they  left  all  the  hunting  and  fighting  to 
others.  A  Canadian  has  but  little  afl'ection  for  the  exercise 
of  the  rifle. 

The  progress  of  the  party  was  but  slow  for  the  first  few 
days.  Some  of  the  men  were  indisposed ;  Mr.  Crooks,  es- 
pecially, was  so  unwell  that  he  could  not  keep  on  his  horse. 
A  rude  kind  of  litter  was,  therefore,  prepared  for  him,  con- 
sisting of  two  long  poles,  fixed,  one  on  each  side  of  two  horses, 
with  a  matting  between  them,  on  wliich  he  reclined  at  full 
length,  and  was  protected  from  the  sun  by  a  canopy  oi"  boughs. 

On  the  evening  of  the  23d  (July)  they  encamped  on  tlie 
banks  of  what  they  term  Big  river ;  and  here  we  cannot  but 
pause  to  lament  the  stupid,  common-place,  and  often  ribald 
names  entailed  upon  the  rivers  and  other  features  of  the  great 
west,  by  traders  and  settlers.    As  the  aboriginal  tribes  of  these 


^'^! 


l"'' 

! 

)■■ 

1    'l' 

i               ^ 

'      ,' 

r 

"1 

1 1 

238 


RESTORATION    OF    INDIAN    NAMES. 


magnificent  regions  are  yet  in  existence,  the  Indian  names 
might  easily  be  recovered ;  which,  beside  being  in  general 
more  sonorous  and  musical,  would  remain  mementoes  of  the 
primitive  lords  of  the  soil,  of  whom  in  a  little  while  scarce 
any  traces  will  be  left.  Indeed,  it  is  to  be  wished  that 
the  whole  of  our  country  could  be  rescued,  as  much  as  pos- 
sible, from  the  wretched  nomenclature  inflicted  upon  it,  by 
ignorant  and  vulgar  minds  ;  and  this  might  be  done,  in  a  great 
degree,  by  restoring  the  Indian  names,  wherever  significant 
and  euphonious.  As  there  appears  to  be  a  spirit  of  research 
abroad  in  respect  to  our  aboriginal  antiquities,  we  would 
suggest,  as  a  worthy  object  of  enterprise,  a  map,  or  maps, 
of  every  part  of  our  country,  giving  the  Indian  names 
wherever  they  could  be  ascertained.  Whoever  achieves  such 
a  task  worthily,  will  leave  a  monument  to  his  own  reputation. 

To  retiirn  from  this  digression.  As  the  travellers  were 
now  in  a  country  abounding  with  buffalo,  they  remained  for 
several  days  encamped  upon  the  banks  of  Big  river,  to  obtain 
a  supply  of  provisions,  and  to  give  the  invalids  time  to  recruit. 

On  the  second  day  of  their  sojourn,  as  Ben  Jones,  John 
Day  and  others  of  the  hunters  were  in  pursuit  of  game,  they 
came  upon  an  Indian  camp  on  the  open  prairie,  near  to  a 
.small  stream  Avhich  ran  through  a  ravine.  The  tents  or  lodges 
were  of  dressed  buffalo  skins,  sewn  together  and  stretched  ou 
tapering  pine  poles,  joined  at  top,  but  radiating  at  bottom,  so  as 
to  form  a  circle  capable  of  admitting  fifty  persons.  Numbers 
of  horses  were  grazing  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp,  or 
straying  at  large  in  the  prairie  ;  a  sight  most  acceptable  to  the 
hunters.  After  reconnoitring  the  camp  for  some  time,  they 
ascertained  it  to  belong  to  a  band  of  Cheyenne  Indians,  the 
.same  that  had  sent  a  deputation  to  the  Arickaras.  They 
received  the  hunters  in  the  most  friendly  manner ;    invited 


A    CHEYENNE    CAMP. 


239 


ian  names 
in  general 
oes  of  the 
lile  scarce 
ished   that 
ch  as  pos- 
ipon  it,  by 
,  in  a  great 
significant 
of  research 
we   would 
p,  or  maps, 
lian    names 
hieves  such 
reputation, 
ellers  were 
mained  for 
er,  to  obtain 
e  to  recruit, 
ones,  John 
game,  they 
near  to  a 
ts  or  lodges 
tretched  ou 
ottom,  so  as 
Numbers 
re  camp,  or 
)table  to  the 
time,  they 
ndians,  the 
as.      They 
er ;   invited 


them  to  their  lodges,  which  were  lore  cleanly  than  Indian 
lodges  are  prone  to  be,  and  set  food  before  them  with  true 
uncivilized  hospitality.  Several  of  them  accompanied  the 
hunters  back  to  the  camp,  Avhen  a  trade  was  immediately 
opened.  The  Cheyennes  were  astonished  and  delighted  to 
find  a  convoy  of  goods  and  trinkets  thus  brought  into  the  very 
heart  of  the  prairie  ;  while  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were 
overjoyed  to  have  an  opportunity  of  obtaining  a  further  supply 
of  horses  from  these  equestrian  savages. 

During  a  fortnight  t.iat  the  travellers  lingered  at  this  place, 
their  encampment  was  continually  thronged  by  the  Cheyennes. 
They  were  a  civil,  well-behaved  people,  cleanly  in  their  per- 
sons and  decorous  in  their  habits.  The  men  were  tall,  straight 
and  vigorous,  with  aqueline  noses,  and  high  cheek  bones. 
Some  were  almost  as  naked  as  ancient  statues,  and  might 
have  stood  as  models  for  a  statuary ;  others  had  leggins  and 
moccasins  of  deer  skin,  and  buflfalo  robes,  Avhich  they  threw 
gracefully  over  their  shoulders.  In  a  little  while,  however, 
they  began  to  appear  in  more  gorgeous  array,  tricked  out  in 
the  finery  obtained  from  the  white  men ;  bright  cloths ;  brass 
rings  ;  beads  of  various  colors,  and  happy  was  he  who  could 
render  himself  hideous  with  vermilion. 

The  travellers  had  frequent  occasion  to  admire  the  skill  and 
grace  with  which  these  Indians  managed  their  horses.  Some 
of  them  made  a  striking  display  when  mounted ;  themselves 
and  their  steeds  decorated  in  gala  style ;  for  the  Indians  often 
bestow  more  finery  upon  their  horses  than  upon  themselves. 
Some  would  hang  round  the  necks,  or  rather  on  the  breasts 
of  their  horses,  the  most  precious  ornaments  they  had  obtained 
from  the  white  men  ;  others  interwove  feathers  in  their  manes 
and  tails.  The  Indian  horses,  too,  appear  to  have  an  attach- 
ment to  their  wild  riders,  and  indeed  it  is  said  that  the  horses 


W: 


■,      11 


li,  ■.      ): 


240 


CHEYENNES,    THEIR    HABITS    AND    HISTORY. 


of  the  prairies  readily  distinguish  an  Indian  from  a  white  man 
by  the  smell,  and  give  a  preference  to  the  former.  Yet  the 
Indians,  in  general,  are  hard  riders,  and,  however  they  may 
value  their  horses,  treat  them  with  great  roughness  and  neg- 
lect. Occasionally  the  Cheyennes  joined  the  white  hunters 
in  pursuit  of  the  elk  and  buffalo ;  and  when  in  the  ardor  of 
the  chase,  spared  neither  themselves  nor  their  steeds,  scouring 
the  prairies  at  full  speed,  and  plunging  down  precipices  and 
frightful  ravines  that  threatened  the  necks  of  both  horse  and 
horseman.  The  Indian  steed,  well  trained  to  the  chase, 
seems  as  mad  as  his  rider,  and  pursues  the  game  as  eagerly 
as  if  it  were  his  natural  prey,  on  the  flesh  of  which  he  was 
to  banquet. 

The  history  of  the  Cneyennes  is  that  of  many  of  those 
wandering  tribes  of  the  prairies.  They  were  the  remnant  of 
a  once  powerful  people  called  the  Shaways,  inhabiting  a 
branch  of  the  Red  river  which  flows  into  Lake  Winnipeg. 
Every  Indian  tribe  has  some  rival  tribe  with  which  it  wages 
implacable  hostility.  The  deadly  enemies  of  the  Shaways 
were  the  Sioux,  who,  after  a  long  course  of  warfare,  proved 
too  powerful  for  them,  and  drove  them  across  the  Missouri. 
They  again  took  root  near  the  Warricanne  creek,  and  estab- 
lished themselves  there  in  a  fortified  village. 

The  Sioux  still  followed  them  with  deadly  animosity ;  dis- 
lodged them  from  their  village,  and  compelled  them  to  take 
refuge  in  the  Black  hills,  near  the  upper  waters  of  the  Shey- 
enne  or  Cheyenne  river.  Here  they  lost  even  their  name,  and 
became  known  among  the  French  colonists  by  that  of  the  river 
they  frequented. 

The  heart  of  the  tribe  was  now  broken  ;  its  numbers  were 
greatly  thiimed  by  their  harassing  wars.  They  no  longer 
attempted  to  establish  themselves  in  any  permanent  abode  that 


■  white  man 
r.  Yet  the 
r  they  may 
s  and  neg- 
lite  hunters 
lie  ardor  of 
Is,  scouring 
cipices  and 
I  horse  and 
the  chase, 
}  as  eagerly 
lich  he  was 

ly  of  those 
remnant  of 
nhabiting  a 
Winnipeg, 
ch  it  wages 
le  Shaways 
fare,  proved 
e  Missouri. 
,  and  estab- 

nosity ;  dis- 
lem  to  take 
f  the  Shey- 
r  name,  and 
of  the  river 

mbers  were 
r  no  longer 
X  abode  that 


FLUCTUATIONS  OF  SAVAGE  LIFE.         241 

might  be  an  object  of  attack  to  their  cruel  foes.  They  gave 
up  the  cultivation  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth,  and  became  a 
wandering  tribe,  subsisting  by  the  chase,  and  following  the 
bufTalo  in  its  migrations. 

Their  only  possessions  were  horses,  which  they  caught  on 
the  prairies,  or  reared,  or  captured  on  predatory  incursions 
into  the  Mexican  territories,  as  has  already  been  mentioned. 
With  some  of  these  they  repaired  once  a  year  to  the  Arickara 
villages,  exchanged  them  for  corn,  beans,  pumpkins,  and  arti- 
cles of  European  merchandise,  and  then  returned  into  the 
heart  of  the  prairies. 

Such  are  the  fluctuating  fortunes  of  these  savage  nations. 
War,  famine,  pestilence,  together  or  singly,  bring  down  their 
strength  and  thin  their  numbers.     Whole  tribes  are  rooted  up 
from  their  native  places,  wander  for  a  time  about  these  im- 
mense  regions,   become  amalgamated  with   other   tribes,   or 
disappear  from  the  face  of  the  earth.     There  appears  to  be  a 
tendency  to  extinction   among   all   the  savage   nations ;    and 
this  tendency  would  seem  to  have  been  in  operation  among 
the  aboriginals  of  this  country  long  before  the  advent  of  the 
white  men,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  traces  and  traditions 
of  ancient  populousness  in  regions  which  were  silent  and 
deserted  at  the  time  of  the  discovery;  and  from  the  myste- 
rious and  perplexing  vestiges  of  unknown  races,  predecessors 
of  those  found  in  actual  possession,  and  who  must  long  since 
have  become  gradually  extinguished  or  been  destroyed!    The 
whole  history  of  the  aboriginal  population  of  this   country, 
however,  is   an  enigma,  and  a  grand  one— will  it  ever  be 
solved  ? 


21 


)l 


II      ''' 


Ik 


242 


NEW    DISTRIBUTION    OF    HORSES. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


New  distribution  of  horses — secret  ixfokmation  of  treason  in  thk 
CAMP — Rose  the  interpreter,  his  perfidious  character — his  plots 

ANECDOTES    OF    THE    CrOW    InDIAN.S NOTORIOUS    HORSE     STEALERS — 

SOME    ACCOUNT    OP    RoSE — A    DESPERADO    OF    THE    FRONTIER. 

On  the  sixth  of  August  the  travellers  bade  farewell  to  the 
friendly  band  of  Cheyennes,  and  resumed  their  journey.  As 
they  had  obtained  thirty-six  additional  horses  by  their  recent 
traffic,  Mr.  Hunt  made  a  new  arrangement.  The  baggage 
was  made  up  in  smaller  loads.  A  horse  was  allotted  to  each 
of  the  six  prime  hunters,  and  others  were  distributed  among 
the  voyageurs,  a  horse  for  every  two,  so  that  they  could  ride 
and  walk  alternately.  Mr.  Crooks  being  still  too  feeble  to 
mount  the  saddle,  was  carried  on  a  litter. 

Their  march  this  day  lay  among  singular  hills  and  knolls 
of  an  indurated  red  earth,  resembling  brick,  about  the  bases 
of  which  were  scattered  pumice  stones  and  cinders,  the  whole 
bearing  traces  of  the  action  of  fire.  In  the  evening  they 
encamped  on  a  branch  of  Big  river. 

They  were  now  out  of  the  tract  of  country  infested  by  the 
Sioux,  and  had  advanced  such  a  distance  into  the  interior  that 
Mr.  Hunt  no  longer  felt  apprehensive  of  the  desertion  of  any 
of  his  men.  He  was  doomed,  however,  to  experience  new 
cause  of  anxiety.  As  he  was  seated  in  his  tent  after  night- 
fall, one  of  the  men  came  to  him  privately,  and  informed  him 


.  i 


TREASON    IN    THE    CAMP. 


243 


I 


ISON   IN    THt: 

HIS    PLOTS 

STEALKRi- 

i. 

veil  to  the 
irney.  As 
heir  recent 
16  baggage 
ed  to  each 
ted  among 
could  ride 
>  feeble  to 

and  knolls 
the  bases 
the  whole 

ening  they 

ited  by  the 
nterior  that 
ion  of  any 
ience  new 
after  night- 
brmed  him 


J 


that  there  was  mischief  brewing  in  the  camp.  Edward  Rose, 
the  interpreter,  whose  sinister  looks  we  have  already  men- 
tioned, was  denounced  by  this  secret  informer  as  a  designing, 
treacherous  scoundrel,  who  was  tampering  with  the  fidelity  of 
certain  of  the  men,  and  instigating  them  to  a  flagrant  piece  of 
treason.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  they  would  arrive  at 
the  mountainous  district  infested  by  the  Upsarokas  or  Crows, 
the  tribe  among  which  Rose  was  to  ofliciate  as  interpreter. 
His  plan  was  that  several  of  the  nien  should  join  with  him, 
when  in  that  neighborhood,  in  carrying  ofl"  a  number  of  the 
horses  with  their  packages  of  goods,  and  deserting  to  those 
savages.  He  assured  them  of  good  treatment  among  the 
Crows,  the  principal  chiefs  and  warriors  of  whom  he  knew : 
they  would  soon  become  great  men  among  them,  and  have  the 
finest  women,  and  the  daughters  of  the  cliiefs,  for  Avives  ;  and 
the  horses  and  goods  they  carried  off  would  make  them  rich 
for  life. 

The  intelligence  of  this  treachery  on  the  part  of  Rose  gave 
much  disquiet  to  Mr.  Hunt,  for  he  knew  not  how  far  it  might 
be  effective  among  his  men.  He  had  already  had  proofs  that 
several  of  them  were  disaffected  to  the  enterprise,  and  loath 
to  cross  the  mountains.  He  knew  also  that  savage  life  had 
charms  for  many  of  them,  especially  the  Canadians,  who  were 
[)rone  to  intermarry  and  domesticate  themselves  among  the 
Indians. 

And  here  a  word  or  two  concerning  the  Crows  may  be  of 
service  to  the  reader,  as  they  will  figure  occasionally  in  the 
.succeeding  narration. 

The  tribe  consists  of  four  bands,  which  have  their  nestling 
places  in  fertile,  well  wooded  valleys,  lying  among  the  Rocky 
mountains,  and  watered  by  the  Big  Horse  river  and  its  tribu- 
tary streams  ;    biU,  though   these   are  properly  ihcir   homes. 


I-     ' 


244 


THE    CROW    INDIANS. 


t\ 


where  they  shelter  their  old  people,  their  wives,  and  their 
children,  the  men  of  the  tribe  are  almost  continually  on  the 
foray  and  the  scanjper.  They  are,  in  fact,  notorious  marau- 
ders and  horsestealers  ;  crossing  and  recrossing  the  moun- 
tains, robbing  on  the  one  side,  and  conveying  their  spoils  to 
the  other.  Hence,  we  are  told,  is  derived  their  name,  given 
to  them  on  account  of  their  imsettlcd  and  predatory  habits ; 
winging  their  flight,  like  the  crows,  from  one  side  of  the 
mountains  to  the  other,  and  making  free  booty  of  every  thing 
that  lies  in  their  way.  Horses,  however,  are  the  especial 
objects  of  their  depredations,  and  their  skill  and  audacity  in 
stealing  them  are  said  to  be  astonishing.  This  is  their  glory 
and  delight ;  an  accomplished  horsestealer  fills  up  their  idea 
of  a  hero.  Many  horses  arc  obtained  by  them,  also,  in  barter 
from  tribes  in  and  beyond  the  mountains.  They  have  an  abso- 
lute passion  for  this  noble  animal ;  beside  which  he  is  with 
them  an  important  object  of  trallic.  Once  a  year  they  make  a 
visit  to  the  Mandans,  Minatarces,  and  other  tribes  of  the  Mis- 
souri, taking  with  them  droves  of  horses  which  they  exchange 
for  guns,  ammunition,  trinkets,  vermilion,  cloths  of  bright 
colors,  and  various  other  articles  of  European  manufacture. 
With  these  they  supply  their  own  wants  and  caprices,  and 
carry  on  the  internal  trade  for  horses  already  mentioned. 

The  plot  of  Rose  to  rob  and  abandon  his  countrymen  when 
in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness,  and  to  throw  himself  into  the 
hands  of  a  horde  of  savages,  may  appear  strange  and  improba- 
ble to  those  unacquainted  with  the  singular  and  anomalous 
characters  that  are  to  i)c  found  about  the  borders.  This  fel- 
low, it  appears,  was  one  of  those  desperadoes  of  the  frontiers 
outlawed  by  their  crimes,  who  combine  the  vices  of  civilized 
and  savage  life,  and  are  ten  times  more  barbarous  than  the 
Indians  with  whom  they  consort.     Rose  had  formerly  be- 


A  DESPERADO  OF  THE  FRONTIER. 


245 


,  and  their 
ally  on  the 
3US  maraii- 
the  moirn- 
r  spoils  to 
ame,  given 
ory  habits ; 
idc  of  the 
jvery  thing 
e  especial 
audacity  in 
th(;ir  glory 
their  idea 
),  in  barter 
'■e  an  abso- 
he  is  with 
ey  make  a 
r  the  Mis- 
exchange 
of  bright 
iniifacture. 
rices,  and 
ncd. 

nen  when 
f  into  the 
I  iniproba- 
inomalous 
This  fel- 
i  frontiers 
r  civilized 
than  the 
nerly  be- 


longed to  one  of  the  gangs  of  pirates  who  infested  the  islands 
of  the  Mississippi,  plundering  boats  as  they  went  up  and  down 
the  river,  and  who  sometimes  shifted  the  scene  of  their  rob- 
beries to  the  shore,  waylaying  travellers  as  they  returned  by 
land  from  New  Orleans  with  the  proceeds  of  their  downward 
voyage,  plundering  them  of  their  money  and  effects,  and  often 
perpetrating  the  most  atrocious  murders. 

These  hordes  of  villains  being  broken  up  and  dispersed, 
Rose  had  betaken  himself  to  the  wilderness,  and  associated 
himself  with  the  Crows,  whose  predatory  habits  were  con- 
genial with  his  own,  had  married  a  woman  of  the  tribe,  and, 
in  short,  had  identified  himself  with  those  vagrant  savages. 

Such  was  the  worthy  guide  and  interpreter,  Edward  Rose. 
We  give  his  story,  however,  not  as  it  was  known  to  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  companions  at  the  time,  but  as  it  has  been  subse- 
quently ascertained.  Enough  was  known  of  the  fellow  and 
his  dark  and  perfidious  character  to  put  Mr.  Hunt  upon  his 
guard :  still,  as  there  was  no  knowing  how  far  his  plans  might 
have  succeeded,  and  as  any  rash  act  might  blow  the  mere 
smouldering  sparks  of  treason  into  a  sudden  blaze,  it  was 
thought  advisable  by  thosa  with  whom  Mr.  Hunt  consulted,  to 
conceal  all  knowledge  or  suspicion  of  the  meditated  treachery, 
but  to  keep  up  a  vigilant  watch  upon  the  movements  of  Rose, 
and  a  strict  guard  upon  the  horses  at  night. 


21* 


;         ." 

K^tf 

' 

Mf 

■  i^ ' 

'■  < 

'.'  :  '  ' 

246 


FOSSIL   TREES. 


CHAPTER    XXV, 


Substitute  for  PUEh  on  the  prairies — fossil  trees — fierceness  of 

THE  buffaloes  WHEN  IN  HEAT — THREE  HUNTERS  MISSING — SIGNAL  FIRES 

AND     SMOKES UNEASINESS     CONCERNING      THE     LOST      MEN A     PLAN      TO 

FORESTALL  A  ROGUE — NEW  ARRANGEMENT  WITH    IloSE — RETURN   OF    THE 
WANDERERS. 

The  plains  over  which  the  travellers  were  journeying  con- 
tinued to  be  destitute  of  trees  or  even  shrubs ;  insomuch  that 
they  had  to  use  the  dung  ol'  the  buffalo  for  fuel,  as  the  Arabs 
of  the  desert  use  that  of  the  camel.  This  substitute  for  fuel 
is  universal  among  the  Indians  of  these  upper  prairies,  and  is 
said  to  make  a  fire  equal  to  that  of  turf.  If  a  few  chips  are 
added,  it  throws  out  a  cheerful  and  kindly  blaze. 

These  plains,  however,  had  not  always  been  equally  desti- 
tute of  wood,  as  was  evident  from  the  trunks  of  trees  which 
the  travellers  repeatedly  met  with,  some  still  standing,  others 
lying  about  in  broken  fragments,  but  all  in  a  fossil  state,  having 
flourished  in  times  long  past.  In  these  singular  remains,  the 
original  grain  of  the  wood  was  still  so  distinct  that  they  could 
be  ascertained  to  be  the  ruins  of  oak  trees.  Several  pieces 
of  the  fossil  wood  were  selected  by  the  men  to  serve  as  whet- 
stones. 

In  this  part  of  the  journey  there  was  no  lack  of  provisions, 
for  the  prairies  were  covered  with  immense  herds  of  buffalo. 


} 


RCENESS  OF 
[GNAL  FIREH 
A     PLAN     TO 

;rn  of  the 


ying  con- 
nuch  that 
the  Arabs 
e  for  fuel 
3s,  and  is 
chips  are 

illy  desti- 
es  which 
ig,  others 
e,  having 
lains,  the 
ley  could 
il  pieces 
as  whet- 

ovisions, 
r  buffalo. 


THE    LOST    HUNTERS. 


247 


These,  in  general,  are  animals  of  peaceable  demeanor,  grazing 
quietly  like  domestic  cattle ;  but  this  was  the  season  when 
they  are  in  heat,  and  when  the  bulls  are  unusually  fierce  and 
pugnacious.  There  was  accordingly  a  universal  restlessness 
and  conmiotion  throughout  the  plain ;  and  the  amorous  herds 
gave  utterance  to  their  feeUngs  in  low  bellowings  that  re- 
sounded  liko  distant  thunder.  Here  and  there  lierce  duellos 
took  place  between  rival  enamorados ;  butting  tlieir  huge 
shagged  fronts  together,  goring  each  other  with  their  short 
black  horns,  and  tearing  up  the  earth  with  tlieir  feet  in  perfect 
fury. 

In  one  of  the  evening  halts,  Pierre  Dorion,  the  interpreter, 
together  with  Carson  and  Gardpie,  two  of  the  hunters,  were 
missing,  nor  had  they  returned  by  morning.  As  it  was  sup- 
posed  they  had  wandered  away  in  pursuit  of  buffalo,  and 
would  readily  Ihid  the  track  of  the  party,  no  solicitude'  was 
felt  on  their  account.  A  fire  was  left  burning,  to  guide  them 
by  its  column  of  smoke,  and  the  travellers  proceeded  on  their 
march.  In  the  evening  a  signal  fire  was  made  on  a  hill  ad- 
jacent to  the  camp,  and  in  the  morning  it  was  replenished 
with  fuel  so  as  to  last  throughout  the  day.  These  signals  are 
usual  among  the  Indians,  to  give  warnings  to  each  other,  or  to 
call  home  straggling  hunters  ;  and  such  is  the  transparency  of 
the  atmosphere  in  those  elevated  plains,  that  a  slight  column 
of  smoke  can  be  discerned  from  a  great  distance,  particularly 
in  the  evenings.  Two  or  three  days  elapsed,  however,  with- 
out the  reappearance  of  the  three  hunters ;  and  Mr.  Hunt 
slackened  his  march  to  give  them  lime  to  overtake  him. 

A  vigilant  watch  continued  to  be  kept  upon  the  movements 
of  Rose,  and  of  such  of  the  men  as  were  considered  doubtful 
in  their  loyalty ;  but  nothing  occurred  to  excite  immediate 
apprehensions.     Rose  evidently  was  not  a  favorite  among  his 


!'i 


fi,i 


248 


SIGNAL    FIRES. 


comrades,  and  it  was  hoped  lliat  he  had  not  been  able  to  make 
any  real  partisans. 

On  the  10th  of  August  they  encamped  among  hills,  on  the 
highest  peak  oC  which  Mr.  Hunt  caused  a  huge  pyre  of  pine 
wood  to  lie  made,  which  soon  sent  up  a  great  column  of  flame 
that  might  be  seen  far  and  wide  over  the  prairies.  This  fire 
blazed  all  night,  and  was  amply  replenished  at  daybreak ;  so 
that  the  towering  pillar  of  smoke  could  not  but  lie  descried  by 
the  wanderers  if  within  the  distance  of  a  day's  journey. 

It  is  a  common  occurrence  in  these  regions,  where  the  fea- 
tures of  the  country  so  nmch  resemble  each  other,  for  hunters 
to  lose  themselves  and  wander  for  many  days,  before  they  can 
find  their  way  back  to  the  main  body  of  their  party.  In  the 
present  instance,  however,  a  more  than  common  solicitude 
was  felt  in  consequence  of  the  distrust  awakened  by  the 
sinister  designs  of  liose. 

The  route  now  became  excessively  toilsome  over  a  ridge  of 
steep  rocky  hills,  covered  with  loose  stones.  These  were 
intersected  by  deep  valleys,  formed  by  two  branches  of  Big 
river,  coming  from  the  south  of  west,  both  of  which  they 
crossed.  These  streams  were  bordered  by  meadows,  well 
stocked  with  buflaloes.  Loads  of  meat  were  brought  in  by 
the  hunters ;  but  the  travellers  were  rendered  dainty  by  profu- 
sion, and  would  cook  only  the  choice  pieces. 

They  had  now  travelled  for  several  days  at  a  very  slow 
rate,  and  had  made  signal  fires  and  left  traces  of  their  route  at 
every  stage,  yet  nothing  was  heard  or  seen  of  the  lost  men. 
It  began  to  be  feared  that  they  might  have  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  some  lurking  band  of  savages.  A  party  numerous 
as  that  of  Mr.  Hunt,  with  a  long  train  of  pack-horses,  moving 
across  open  plains  or  naked  hills,  is  discoverable  at  a  great 
distance  by  Indian  scouts,  who  spread  the  intelligence  rapidly 


if       > 


A    BRIBE    TO    BE    HONEST. 


24i> 


e  to  make 

Is,  on  the 
re  of  pine 
I  of  flame 

This  fire 
break ;  so 
cscried  by 
ney. 

re  the  fea- 
6r  hunters 
D  they  can 
f.     In  the 

sohcitude 
ed  by  the 

a  ridge  of 
lese  were 
ics  of  Big 
hich  they 
ows,  Avell 
ght  in  by 
by  profu- 

very  slow 
ir  route  at 

lost  men. 
ri  into  the 

numerous 
3s,  moving 
at  a  great 

ce  rapidly 


to  various  points,  and  assemble  their  friends  to  hang  about  the 
skirts  of  the  travellers,  steal  their  horses,  or  cut  oil'  any  strag- 
glers from  the  main  body. 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were  more  and  more  sensible 
how  nnich  h  would  be  in  the  power  of  this  sullen  and  daring 
vagabond  Rose,  to  do  them  mischief,  when  they  should  be- 
come entanyh'd  in  the  defiles  of  the  nioinitains,  with  the 
passes  of  which  they  were  wliuily  unacquaintcMl,  and  which 
Wire  infested  by  his  freebooting  friends,  the  Crows.  There, 
should  he  succeed  in  seducing  sonu^  of  tlie  party  into  his 
plans,  he  might  carry  oil"  the  best  horses  and  eflects,  throw 
himself  among  his  savage  allies,  ami  set  all  pursuit  at  de- 
fiance. Mr.  Hunt  resolved,  thcrelbr(>,  to  frustrate  the  knave, 
divert  him,  by  management,  from  his  plans,  and  make  it  suffi- 
ciently advantageous  for  him  to  remain  honest.  He  took 
occasion,  accordingly,  in  the  course  of  conversation,  to  inform 
Rose  that,  having  engaged  him  chiefly  as  a  guide  and  inter- 
preter through  the  country  of  the  Crows,  they  would  not  stand 
in  need  of  his  services  beyond.  Knowing,  therefore,  his  con- 
nexion by  marriage  with  that  tribe,  and  his  predilection  for  a 
residence  among  them,  they  woidd  put  no  constraint  upon  his 
will.  ])ut,  whenever  they  mot  with  a  party  of  that  people, 
would  leav(^  him  at  liberty  to  remain  among  his  adopted  breth- 
ren. Furthermore  that,  in  thus  parting  with  him,  they  would 
pav  him  half  a  year's  wages  in  consideration  of  his  past  ser- 
vices, and  would  give  him  a  horse,  three  beaver  traps,  and 
sundry  other  articles  calculated  to  sot  him  up  in  the  world. 

This  unexpected  liberality,  which  made  it  nearly  as  profita- 
ble and  infinitely  less  hazardous  for  Rose  to  remain  honest 
than  to  play  the  rogue,  completely  disarmed  him.  From  that 
time  his  whole  deportment  imderwent  a  change.  His  brow 
cleared  up  and  appeared  more  cheerful ;  he  left  off"  his  sullen, 


11 


I'  Kr  I        ) 

I'  *     '        ' 


250 


THE    LITTLE    MISSOURI. 


skulking  habits,  and  mado  no  further  attempts  to  tamper  with 
the  faith  of  his  comrades. 

On  the  i:3th  of  August  Mr.  Hunt  varied  his  course  and 
inclined  westward,  in  liopes  of  falling  in  with  the  three  lost 
hunters ;  who,  it  was  now  thought,  might  have  kept  to  the 
right  hand  of  Big  river.  This  course  soon  bronght  liim  to  a 
fork  ol'  tlio  Little  Missouri,  about  a  hundred  yards  wide,  and 
resembling  the  great  river  of  the  same  name  in  tlie  strength 
of  its  current,  its  turbid  water,  and  the  frequency  of  drift  wood 
and  sunken  trees. 

Rugged  mountains  appeared  ahead,  crowding  down  to  the 
water  edge,  and  offering  a  barrier  to  further  progress  on  the 
side  they  were  ascending.  Crossing  the  river,  therefore,  they 
encamped  on  its  northwest  bank,  where  they  found  good  pas- 
turaije  and  l)uiralo  in  abundance.  The  weather  was  overcast 
and  rainy,  and  a  general  gloom  pervaded  the  camp ;  the  voya- 
geurs  sat  moping  in  groupes,  with  their  shoulders  as  high  as 
their  heads,  croaking  their  forebodings,  when  suddenly  towards 
evening  a  shout  of  joy  gave  notice  that  the  lost  men  were 
found.  Thoy  came  slowly  lagging  into  the  camp,  with  weary 
looks,  and  horses  jaded  and  way  worn.  They  had,  in  fact, 
been  for  several  days  incessantly  on  the  move.  In  their 
hunting  excursion  on  the  prairies  they  had  pushed  so  far  in 
pursuit  of  buffalo,  as  to  lind  it  impossible  to  retrace  their  steps 
over  plains  trampled  by  innumerable  herds ;  and  were  baflled 
by  the  monotony  of  the  landscape  in  their  attempts  to  recall 
landmarks.  They  had  ridden  to  and  fro  until  they  had  almost 
lost  the  points  of  the  compass,  and  become  totally  bewildered ; 
nor  did  they  ever  perceive  any  of  the  signal  fires  and  columns 
of  smoke  made  by  their  comrades.  At  length,  about  two  days 
previously,  when  almost  spent  by  anxiety  and  hard  riding, 


A    WELCOME    RETURN. 


251 


ampcr  with 

course  and 
three  lost 
icpt  to  the 
It  him  to  a 
i  wide,  and 
lie  strcnjfth 
drift  wood 

own  to  the 

ess  on  the 
eforc,  they 
good  pas- 
is  overcast 
;  the  voya- 
as  high  as 
dy  towards 
men  were 
tvith  weary 
id,  in  fact, 
In  their 
1  so  far  in 
their  stops 
ere  baffled 
3  to  recall 
had  almost 
Dwildered ; 
id  columns 
t  two  days 
ird  riding, 


they  came,  to  their  great  joy,  upon  the  "  trail"  of  the  party, 
which  they  had  since  followed  up  steadily. 

Those  only,  who  have  experienced  tlie  warm  cordiality  that 
grows  up  between  comrades  in  wild  and  adventurous  expcdi- 
tions  of  the  kind,  can  picture  to  themselves  the  hearty  cheer- 
ing with  which  the  stragglers  were  welconuid  to  the  camj). 
Every  one  crowded  round  them  to  ask  qutjstions,  and  to  liear 
the  story  of  their  mishaps ;  and  even  the  squaw  of  the  moody 
half-breed,  Pierre  Dorion,  forgot  the  sternness  of  his  domestic 
rule,  and  the  conjugal  discipline  of  the  cudgel,  in  her  joy  at 
his  safe  return. 


1 


252 


THE    BLACK    MOUNTAINS, 


CHAPTER   XXVI 


m 


W 


The   Black  mountains — haunts   op   predatory  Inpiaxs — theiu  wilti 

AND  broken  appearance — SUPERSTITIONS   CONCERNING   THEM — TITrMIEK 

SPIRITS SINGULAR    NOISES    IN    THE    MOUNTAINS SECRET    MIXES HIDDEN 

TREASURES — MOUNTAINS     IN      LABOR SCIENTIFIC     EXPLANATION — IMPAS- 
SABLE     DEFILES BLACK-TAILED      DEER THE      BIGHORN      OR      AHSAHTA 

PROSPECT    FROM    A    LOFTY     HEIGHT PLAIN    WITH    HERDS     OF    BUFFALO — 

DISTANT    PEAKS     OF     THE    RoCKY     MOUNTAINS ALARMS     IN     THE    CAMP 

TRACKS     OF     GRIZZLY     BEARS DANGEROUS     NATURE     OF    THIS     AXIMAI. — 

ADVENTURES     OF    WiLLIAM     CaNNON     AND     JoHN     DaY      WITH      GRIZZLY 
BEARS. 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  were  now  on  the  skirts  of  the  Black 
hills,  or  Black  mountains,  as  they  are  sometimes  called  ;  an 
extensive  chain,  lying  about  a  hundred  miles  east  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  and  stretching  in  a  northeast  direction  from 
the  south  fork  of  the  Nebraska,  or  Platte  river,  to  the  great 
north  bend  of  the  Missouri.  The  Sierra  or  ridge  of  the 
Black  hills,  in  fact,  forms  the  dividing  line  between  the  waters 
of  the  Missouri  and  those  of  the  Arkansas  and  the  Mississippi, 
and  gives  rise  to  the  Cheyenne,  the  Little  Missouri,  and  several 
tributary  streams  of  the  Yellowstone. 

The  wild  recesses  of  these  hills,  like  those  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  are  retreats  and  lurking  places  for  broken  and 
predatory  tribes,  and  it  was  among  them  that  the  remnant  of 
the  Cheyenne  tribe  took  refuge,  as  has  been  stated,  from  their 
conquering  enemies,  the  Sioux. 


THUNDER    SPIRITS. 


253 


-THEIK  WILf) 
;m — rill-NDER 
NES — HIDDEN 

TION IMI'AS- 

AHSAHTA 

F     nUFFALO 

THE    CAMl' 

;iS     ANIMAL 

ITH      GF.IZZLY 

the  Black 
called  ;  an 
ast  of  the 
ction  from 
the  great 
we  of  the 
the  waters 
ississippi, 
nd  sBA'eral 

le  Rocky 
roken  and 
'iiinant  of 
from  their 


i 


The  Black  hills  are  chiefly  composed  of  sand  stone,  and  in 
many  places  are  broken  into  savage  clifTs  and  precipices,  and 
present  the  most  singular  and  fantastic  forms ;  sometimes 
resembling  towns  and  castellated  fortresses.  The  ignorant 
inhabitants  of  plains  are  prone  to  clothe  the  mountains  that 
bound  their  horizon  with  fanciful  and  superstitious  attributes 
Thus  the  wandering  tribes  of  the  prairies  who  often  behold 
clouds  gathering  round  the  summits  of  these  hills,  and  light- 
ning flashing,  and  thunder  pealing  from  them,  when  all  the 
neighboring  plains  are  serene  and  sunny,  consider  them  the 
abode  of  the  genii  or  thunder  spirits,  who  fabricate  storms  and 
tempests.  On  entering  their  defiles,  therefore,  they  often 
hang  ofTerings  on  the  trees,  or  place  them  on  the  rocks,  to 
propitiate  the  invisible  "  lords  of  the  mountains,"  and  procure 
good  weather  and  successful  hunting ;  and  they  attach  unusual 
significance  to  the  echoes  which  haunt  the  precipices.  This 
superstition  may  also  have  arisen,  in  part,  from  a  natural 
phenomenon  of  a  singular  nature.  In  the  most  calm  and 
serene  weather,  and  at  all  times  of  ihe  day  or  night,  succes- 
sive reports  are  now  and  then  heard  among  these  mountains, 
resembling  the  discharge  of  several  pieces  of  artillery.  Similar 
reports  were  heard  ^-y  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  the  Rocky 
mountains,  which  they  say,  were  attributed  by  the  Indians  to 
the  bursting  of  the  rich  mines  of  silver  contained  in  the  bosom 
of  the  mountains. 

In  fact  these  singular  explosions  have  received  fanciful 
explanations  from  learned  men,  and  have  not  been  satisfac- 
torily accounted  for  even  by  philosophers.  They  are  said  to 
occur  frequently  in  Brazil.  Vasconcelles  a  Jesuit  father, 
descril^es  one  which  he  heard  in  the  Sierra,  or  mountain 
region  of  Piratininga,  and  which  he  compares  to  the  dis- 
charges of  a  park  of  artillery.     The  Indians  told  him  that  it 

22 


'■•U  ! 


254 


SOUNDS    IN    THE    MOUNTAINS. 


was  an  explosion  of  stones.  The  worthy  father  had  soon  a 
satisfactory  proof  of  the  truth  of  their  information,  for  the 
very  place  was  found  where  a  rock  had  burst  and  exploded 
from  its  entrails  a  stony  mass,  like  a  bomb-shell,  and  of  the 
size  of  a  bull's  heart.  This  mass  was  broken  either  in  its 
ejection  or  its  fall,  and  wonderful  was  the  internal  organiza- 
tion revealed.  It  had  a  shell  harder  even  than  iron ;  within 
which  were  arranged,  like  the  seeds  of  a  pomegranate,  jewels 
of  various  colors ;  some  transparent  as  crystal ;  others  ol"  a 
fine  red,  and  others  of  mixed  hues.  The  same  phenomenon  i-^ 
said  to  occur  occasionally  in  the  adjacent  province  of  Guayra, 
where  stones  of  the  bigness  of  a  man's  hand  are  exploded, 
with  a  loud  noise,  from  the  bosom  of  the  earth,  and  scatter 
about  glittering  and  beautiful  fragments  that  look  like  precious 
gems,  but  are  of  no  value. 

The  Indians  of  the  Orellanna,  also,  tell  of  horrible  noises 
heard  occasionally  in  the  Paraguaxo,  which  they  consider 
the  throes  and  groans  of  the  mountain  endeavoring  to  cast 
forth  the  precious  stones  hidden  within  its  entrails.  Others 
have  endeavored  to  account  for  these  discharges  of  "  moimtain 
artillery"  on  humbler  principles  ;  attributing  them  to  the  loud 
reports  made  by  the  disruption  and  fall  of  great  masses  of 
lock,  reverberated  and  prolonged  by  the  echoes  ;  others,  to  the 
disengagement  of  hydrogen,  produced  by  subterraneous  beds 
of  coal  in  a  state  of  ignition.  In  whatever  way  this  singular 
phenomenon  may  be  accounted  for,  the  existence  of  it  appears 
to  be  well  established.  It  remains  one  of  the  lingering  mvs- 
teries  of  nature  which  throw  something  of  a  supernatural 
charm  over  her  wild  mountain  solitudes ;  and  we  doubt  whether 
the  imaginative  reader  will  not  rather  join  with  the  poor 
Indian  in  attributing  it  to  the  thunder  spirits,  or  the  guardian 


THE    AHSAHTA    OR    BIGHORN. 


255 


i  soon  a 
for  the 
exploded 
d  of  the 
er  in  its 
organiza- 
I ;  within 
6,  jewels 
:iers  of  a 
»menon  i^ 
f  Guayra, 
exploded, 
id  scatter 
3  precious 

)le  noises 
consider 

g  to  cast 

,     Others 

mountain 

the  loud 

liasses  of 
srs,  to  the 
■ous  beds 
singular 
It  appears 
fing  mys- 
K'rnatural 
whether 
|the  poor 
guardian 


genii  of  unseen  treasures,  than  to  o.ny  common-place  physical 
cause. 

Whatever  might  be  the  supernatural  influences  among  these 
mountains,  the  travellers  found  their  physical  difficulties  hard 
to  cope  with.  They  made  repeated  attempts  to  find  a  passage 
through,  or  over  the  chain,  but  were  as  often  turned  back  by 
impassable  barriers.  Sometimes  a  defile  seemed  to  open  a 
practicable  path,  but  •  would  terminate  in  some  wild  chaos 
of  rocks  and  clifis,  which  it  was  impossible  to  climb.  The 
animals  of  these  solitary  regions  were  different  from  those 
they  bad  been  accustomed  to.  The  black-tailed  deer  would 
bound  up  the  ravines  on  their  approach,  and  the  bighorn  would 
gaze  fearlessly  down  upon  them  from  some  impending  preci- 
pice, or  skip  playfully  from  rock  to  rock.  These  animals  are 
only  to  be  met  with  in  mountainous  regions.  The  former  is 
larger  than  the  common  deer,  but  its  flesh  is  not  equally 
esteemed  by  hunters.  It  has  very  large  ears,  and  the  tip 
of  the  tail  is  black,  from  which  it  derives  its  name. 

The  bighorn  is  so  named  from  its  horns ;  which  are  of  a 
great  size,  and  twisted  like  those  of  a  ram.  It  is  called  by 
some  the  argali,  by  others,  the  ibex,  though  differing  from 
both  of  these  animals.  The  Mandans  call  it  the  ahsahta, 
a  name  much  belter  than  the  clumsy  appellation  which  it 
generally  bears.  It  is  of  the  size  of  a  small  elk,  or  large 
deer,  and  of  a  dun  color,  excepting  the  belly  and  round  the  tail, 
where  it  is  white.  In  its  habits  it  resembles  the  goat,  fre- 
quenting the  rudest  precipices  ;  cropping  the  herbage  from  their 
edges  ;  and  like  the  chamois,  bounding  lightly  and  securely 
among  dizzy  heights,  where  the  hunter  dares  not  venture.  It 
is  difficult,  therefore,  to  get  within  shot  of  it.  Ben  Jones  the 
hunter,  however,  in  one  of  the  passes  of  the  Black  hills, 
succeeded  in  bringing  down  a  bighorn  from  the  verge  of  a 


Il  ' 


J!  «      I     '. 


t 


256 


DISTANT    VIEW    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


precipice,  the  flesh  of  which  was  pronounced  by  the  gourmands 
of  the  camp  to  have  the  flavor  of  excellent  mutton. 

Baflled  in  his  attempts  to  traverse  this  mountain  chain,  Mr. 
Hunt  skirted  along  it  to  the  southwest,  keeping  it  on  the 
right ;  and  still  in  hope  of  finding  an  opening.  At  an  early 
hour  one  day,  he  encamped  in  a  narrow  valley  on  the  banks 
of  a  beautifully  clear  but  rushy  pool ;  surrounded  by  thickets 
bearing  abundance  of  wild  cherries,  currants,  and  yellow  and 
purple  gooseberries. 

While  the  afternoon's  meal  was  in  preparation,  Mr.  Hunt 
and  Mr.  M'Kenzie  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the  nearest  hill, 
from  whence,  aided  by  the  purity  and  transparency  of  the 
evening  atmosphere,  they  commanded  a  vast  prospect  on  all 
sides.  Below  them  extended  a  plain,  dotted  with  innumerable 
herds  of  buffalo.  Some  were  lying  down  among  the  herbage, 
others  roaming  in  their  unbounded  pastures,  while  many  were 
engaged  in  fierce  contests  like  those  already  described,  their 
low  bellowings  reaching  the  ear  like  the  hoarse  murmurs  of 
the  surf  on  a  distant  shore. 

Far  off  in  the  west  they  descried  a  range  of  lofty  mountains 
printing  the  clear  horizon,  some  of  them  evidently  capped 
with  snow.  These  they  supposed  to  be  the  Big  Horn  moun- 
tains, so  called  from  the  animal  of  that  name,  with  which 
they  abound.  They  are  a  spur  of  the  great  Rocky  chain. 
The  hill  from  whence  Mr.  Hunt  had  this  prospect  was,  accord- 
ing to  his  computation,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from 
the  Arickara  village. 

On  returning  to  the  camp,  Mr.  Hunt  found  some  uneasiness 
prevailing  among  the  Canadian  voyageurs.  In  straying  among 
the  thickets  they  had  beheld  tracks  of  grizzly  bears  in  every 
direction ;  doubtless  attracted  thither  by  the  fruit.  To  their 
dismay  they  now  found  that  they  had  encamped  in  one  of  the 


THE    GRIZZLY    BEAR. 


257 


rs. 
Tourmands 

chain,  Mr. 
it  on  the 
t  an  early 
the  banks 
)y  thickets 
rcllow  and 

Mr.  Hunt 
rarest  hill, 
cy  of  the 
ect  on  all 
mumerable 
e  herbage, 
nany  were 
ibed,  their 
uirmurs  of 

mountains 
[y  capped 
)rn  moun- 
ith  which 
ky  chain. 
IS,  accord- 
nilcs  from 

neasiness 

ng  among 

in  every 

To  their 

ne  of  the 


i  ■ 
I'-  _ 


favorite  resorts  of  this  dreaded  animal.  The  idea  marred  all 
the  comfort  of  the  encampment.  As  night  closed,  the  sur- 
rounding thickets  were  peopled  with  terrors ;  insomuch  that, 
according  to  Mr.  Hunt,  they  could  not  help  starting  at  every 
little  breeze  that  stirred  the  bushes. 

The  grizzly  bear  is  the  only  really  formidable  quadruped  of 
our  continent.  He  is  the  favorite  theme  of  the  hunters  ol" 
the  far  west,  who  describe  him  as  equal  in  size  to  a  common 
cow  and  of  prodigious  strength.  He  makes  battle  if  assailed, 
and  often,  if  pressed  by  hunger,  is  the  assailant.  If  wounded, 
he  becomes  furious  and  will  pursue  the  hunter.  His  speed 
exceeds  that  of  a  man,  but  is  inferior  to  that  of  a  horse.  In 
attacking  he  rears  himself  on  his  hind  legs  and  springs  the 
length  of  his  body.  Wo  to  horse  or  rider  that  comes  within 
the  sweep  of  his  terrific  claws,  which  are  sometimes  nine 
inches  in  length,  and  tear  every  thing  before  them. 

At  the  time  we  are  treating  of,  the  grizzly  bear  was  still 
frequent  on  the  Missouri,  and  in  the  lower  country,  but,  like 
some  of  the  broken  tribes  of  the  prairies,  he  has  gradually 
fallen  back  before  his  enemies  and  is  now  chiefly  to  be  found 
in  the  upland  regions,  in  rug;;  d  fastnesses  like  those  of  the 
Black  hills  and  the  Rocky  mountains.  Here  he  lurks  in 
caverns,  or  holes  which  he  has  digged  in  the  sides  of  hills, 
or  under  the  roots  and  trunks  of  fallen  trees.  Like  the  com- 
mon bear  he  is  fond  of  fruits,  and  mast,  and  roots,  the  latter  of 
which  he  will  dig  up  with  his  fore  claws.  He  is  carnivorous 
also,  and  will  even  attack  and  conquer  the  lordly  buffalo, 
dragging  his  huge  carcass  to  the  neighborhood  of  his  den, 
that  he  may  prey  upon  it  at  liis  leisure. 

The  hunters,  both  white  and  red  men,  consider  this  the 

most  heroic  game.     They  prefer  to  hunt  him  on  horseback, 

and  will  venture  so  near  as  sometimes  to  singe  his  hair  with 

22* 


IM 


!:''.(     1 
'/■i^ 


inii 


258 


ADVENTURE    OF    WILLIAM    CANNON. 


the  flash  of  the  rifle.  The  hunter  of  the  grizzly  bear,  how- 
ever, must  be  an  experienced  hand,  and  know  where  to  aim  at 
a  vital  part ;  for  of  all  quadrupeds,  he  is  the  most  difficult  to 
be  killed.  He  will  receive  repeated  wounds  whhout  flinching, 
and  rarely  is  a  shot  mortal  unless  through  the  head  or  heart. 

That  the  dangers  apprehended  from  the  grizzly  bear,  at 
this  night  encampment,  wore  not  imaginary,  was  proved  on 
the  following  morning.  Among  the  hired  men  of  the  party 
was  one  William  Cannon,  who  had  been  a  soldier  at  one  of 
the  frontier  posts,  and  entered  into  the  employ  of  Mr.  Hunt 
at  Mackinaw.  He  was  an  inexperienced  hunter  and  a  poor 
shot,  for  which  he  was  much  bantered  by  his  more  adroit 
comrades.  Piqued  at  their  raillery,  he  had  been  practising 
ever  since  he  had  joined  the  expedition,  but  without  success. 
In  the  course  of  the  present  afternoon,  he  went  forth  by 
himself  to  take  a  lesson  in  venerie,  and,  to  his  great  delight, 
had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  a  bufTalo.  As  he  was  a  considera- 
ble distance  from  the  camp,  he  cut  out  the  tongue  and  some 
of  the  choice  bits,  made  them  into  a  parcel,  and,  slinging 
them  on  his  shoulders  by  a  strap  passed  round  his  forehead, 
as  the  voyageurs  carry  packages  of  goods,  set  out  all  glorious 
for  the  camp,  anticipating  a  triumph  over  his  brother  hunters. 
In  passing  through  a  narrow  ravine,  he  heard  a  noise  behind 
him,  and  looking  round  beheld,  to  his  dismay,  a  grizzly  bear 
in  full  pursuit,  apparently  attracted  by  the  scent  of  the  meat. 
Cannon  had  heard  so  much  of  the  invulnerability  of  this  tre- 
mendous animal  that  he  never  attempted  to  fire,  but,  slipping 
the  strap  from  his  forehead,  let  go  the  bufllilo  meat  and  ran  for 
his  life.  The  bear  did  not  stop  to  regale  himself  with  the 
game,  but  kept  on  after  the  hunter.  He  had  nearly  overtaken 
him  when  Cannon  reached  a  tree,  and,  throwing  down  his 
rifle,  scrambled  up  it.     The  next  instant  Bruin  was  at  the  foot 


■T. 


i 


JOHN    DAT    AND    THE    BEAR. 


259 


ear,  how- 
to  aim  at 
ifficult  to 
flinching, 
•  heart, 
bear,  at 
roved  on 
the  party 
at  one  of 
Mr.  Hunt 
id  a  poor 
)re  adroit 
practising 
,  success, 
forth  by 
,t  delight, 
;onsidera- 
ind  some 
shnging 
forehead, 
glorious 
hunters, 
e  behind 
zzly  bear 
le  meat, 
this  tre- 
slipping 
.  ran  for 
rvith  the 
vertaken 
own  his 
the  foot 


of  the  tree ;  but,  as  this  species  of  bear  does  not  climb,  he 
contented  himself  with  turning  the  chase  into  a  blockade. 
Night  came  on.  In  the  darkness  Cannon  could  not  perceive 
whether  or  not  the  enemy  maintained  his  station ;  but  his 
fears  pictured  him  rigorously  mounting  guard.  He  passed  the 
night,  therefore,  in  the  tree,  a  prey  to  dismal  fancies.  In  the 
morning  the  bear  was  gone.  Cannon  warily  descended  the 
tree,  gathered  up  his  gun,  and  made  the  best  of  his  way  back 
to  the  camp,  without  venturing  to  look  after  his  buflalo  meat. 

While  on  this  theme  we  will  add  another  anecdote  of  an 
adventure  with  a  grizzly  bear,  told  of  John  Day,  the  Kentucky 
hunter,  but  which  happened  at  a  diflercnt  period  of  the  expe- 
dition.    Day  was  hunting  in  company  with  one  of  the  clerks 
of  the  Company,  a  lively  youngster,  who  was  a  great  favorite 
with  the  veteran,  but  whose  vivacity  he  had  continually  to 
keep  in  check.     They  were  in  search  of  deer,  when  suddenly 
a  huge  grizzly  bear  emerged  from  a  thicket  about  thirty  yards 
distant,   rearing  himself  upon  his  hind   legs  with  a  terrific 
growl,   and  displaying  a  hideous  array  of  teeth  and  claws. 
The  rifle  of  the  young  man  was  levelled  in  an  instant,  but 
John  Day's  iron  hand  was  as  quickly  upon  his  arm.      "  Be 
quiet,  boy  I   be  quiet !"    exclaimed   the    hunter,  between   his 
clenched  teeth,  and  without  turning  his  eyes  from  the  bear. 
They  remained  motionless.     The  monster  regarded  them  for 
a  time,  then,  lowering  himself  on  his  fore  paws,  slowly  with- 
drew.    He  had  not  gone  many  paces  before  he  again  turned, 
reared  himself  on  his  hind  legs,  and  repeated  his  menace. 
Day's  hand  was  still  on  the  arm  of  his  young  companion,  he 
again  pressed  it  hard,  and  kept  repeating  between  his  teeth, 
"Quiet,  boy! — keep  quiet  I — keep  quiet!" — though  the  latter 
had  not  made  a  move  since  his  first  prohibition.     The  bear 
again  lowered  himself  on  all  fours,  retreated  some  twenty 


f 

1 

'A 

if. 

260 


A    HAZARDOUS    SHOT. 


yards  further,  and  again  turned,  reared,  showed  his  teeth,  and 
growled.  This  third  menace  was  too  much  for  the  game 
spirit  of  John  Day.  "  By  Jove !"  exclaimed  he,  "  I  can 
stand  this  no  longer,"  and  in  an  instant  a  ball  from  his  rifle 
whizzed  into  tlie  foe.  The  wound  was  not  mortal ;  but, 
inckily,  it  dismayed  instead  of  enraging  the  animal,  and  he 
retreated  into  the  thicket. 

Day's  young  companion  reproached  him  for  not  practising 
the  caution  which  he  enjoined  upon  others.  "  Why,  boy," 
replied  the  veteran,  "  caution  is  caution,  but  one  must  not  put 
up  with  too  much  even  from  a  bear.  Would  you  have  me 
suffer  myself  to  be  bullied  all  day  by  a  varmint  ?" 


'■} 


eeth,  and 
he  game 
"  I  can 
his  rifle 
•tal;  but, 
,  and  he 


AN    INDIAN    TRAIL. 


261 


)ractising 
ly,  boy," 
t  not  put 
have  rae 


if 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 

Indian  trail—rough  mountain  travelling— sufferings  prom  hunger 
AND  THIRST— Powder  river- game  in  abundance— a  hunter's  para- 
dise—mountain  PEAK   SEEN  AT   A  GREAT    DISTANCE— ONE    OF    THE    BlO 

Horn  chain — Rocky  mountains— extent — appearance — height the 

GREAT  American  desert — various  characteristics  of  the  moun- 
tains—Indian superstitions  concerning  them— land  op  souls- 
towns  op  the  free  and  generous  spirits— HAPpy  hunting  grounds. 

For  the  two  following  days  the  travellers  pursued  a  westerly 
course  for  thirty-four  miles,  along  a  ridge  of  country  dividing 
the  tributary  waters  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone. 
As  landmarks  they  guided  themselves  by  the  summits  of  the 
far  distant  mountains,  which  they  supposed  to  belong  to  the 
Big  Horn  chain.  They  were  gradually  rising  into  a  higher 
temperature,  for  the  weather  was  cold  for  the  season,  with  a 
sharp  frost  in  the  night,  and  ice  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness. 

On  the  twenty-second  of  August,  eariy  in  the  day,  they 
came  upon  the  trail  of  a  numerous  band.  Rose  and  the  other 
hunters  examined  the  foot-prints  with  great  attention,  and 
determined  it  to  be  the  trail  of  a  party  of  Crows,  returning 
from  an  annual  trading  visit  to  the  Mandans.  As  this  trail 
afforded  more  commodious  travelling,  they  immediately  stnick 
into  it,  and  followed  it  for  two  days.  It  led  them  over  rough 
hills,  and  through  broken  gullies,  during  which  time  they 


262 


SUFFERINGS    FROM    THIRST. 


suffered  great  Aiiigue  from  the  ruggcdness  of  the  country. 
The  weather,  too,  which  had  recently  been  frosty,  was  now 
oppressively  warm,  and  (here  was  great  scarcity  of  water, 
insomuch  that  a  valuable  dog  belonging  to  Mr.  M'Kenzie  died 
of  tliirst. 

At  one  time  they  had  twenty-five  miles  of  painful  travel, 
without  a  drop  of  water,  until  they  arrived  at  a  small  running 
stream.  Here  they  eagerly  slaked  their  thirst ;  but,  this 
being  allayed,  the  calls  of  hunger  became  equally  importu- 
nate. Ever  since  they  had  got  among  these  barren  and  arid 
hills,  where  there  was  a  deficiency  of  grass,  they  had  met 
with  no  buffaloes ;  those  animals  keeping  in  the  grassy  mea- 
dows near  the  streams.  They  were  obliged,  therefore,  to  have 
recourse  to  their  corn  meal,  which  they  reserved  for  such 
emergencies.  Some,  however,  were  lucky  enough  to  kill  a 
wolf,  which  they  cooked  for  supper,  and  pronounced  excellent 
food. 

The  next  morning  they  resumed  their  wayfaring,  hungry 
and  jaded,  and  had  a  dogged  march  of  eighteen  miles  among 
the  same  kind  of  liills.  At  length  they  emerged  upon  a 
stream  of  clear  water,  one  of  the  forks  of  Powder  river,  and 
to  their  great  joy  beheld  once  more  wide  grassy  meadows, 
stocked  with  herds  of  buffalo.  For  several  days  they  kepi 
about  the  banks  of  this  river,  ascending  it  about  eighteen  miles. 
It  was  a  hunter's  paradise ;  the  buffaloes  were  in  such  abun- 
dance that  they  w^ere  enabled  to  kill  as  many  as  they  pleased, 
and  to  jerk  a  sufficient  supply  of  meat  for  several  days'  jour- 
neying. Here,  then,  they  revelled  and  reposed  after  their 
hungry  and  weary  travel,  hunting  and  feasting,  and  reclining 
upon  the  grass.  Their  quiet,  however,  was  a  little  marred  by 
coming  upon  traces  of  Indians,  who,  they  concluded,  must  be 
Crows ;  they  were  therefore  obliged  to  keep  a  more  vigilant 


) 


II      !     # 


PEAKS  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


263 


3  country. 

was  now 

of  water, 

cnzie  died 

ful  travel, 

11  running 

but,   this 

r  importu- 

i  and  arid 

'■  had  inet 

assy  mca- 

rc,  to  have 

for  sucli 

to  kill  a 

excellent 

g,  hungry 
es  among 
upon  a 
river,  and 
meadows, 
they  kept 
en  miles, 
ich  abun- 

pleased, 
lys'  jour- 
'ter  their 
reclining 
larred  by 

must  be 
3  vigilant 


watch  than  ever  upon  their  horses.  For  several  days  they 
had  been  directing  their  march  towards  the  lofty  mountain 
descried  by  JNfr.  Hunt  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie  on  the  17th  of  Au- 
gust, the  height  of  which  rendered  it  a  landmark  over  a  vast 
extent  of  country.  At  first  it  had  appear(^d  to  them  solitary 
and  detached ;  but  as  they  advanced  towards  it,  it  proved  to 
be  the  principal  summit  of  a  chain  of  mountains.  Day  by 
day  it  varied  in  form,  or  rather  its  lower  peaks,  and  the  sum- 
mits of  others  of  the  chain  emerged  above  the  clear  horizon, 
and  linally  the  inferior  line  of  hills  which  eormected  most 
of  them  rose  to  view.  So  far,  however,  are  objects  discerni- 
ble in  the  pure  atmosphere  of  these  elevated  plains,  that,  from 
tlie  place  wliere  they  first  descried  the  main  mountain,  -they 
had  to  travel  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  before  they  reached  its 
base.  Here  they  encamped  on  the  thirtieth  of  August,  having 
come  nearly  four  hundred  miles  since  leaving  the  Arickara 
village. 

The  mountain  which  now  towered  above  tliem  was  one  of 
the  Big  Horn  chain,  bordered  by  a  river  of  the  same  name, 
and  extending  for  a  long  distance  rather  east  of  north  and 
west  of  south.  It  was  a  part  of  the  great  system  of  granite 
mountains  which  forms  one  of  the  most  important  and  striking 
features  of  North  America,  stretcliing  paralb^l  to  the  coast  of 
the  Pacitic  from  tlie  Isthmus  of  Panama  abnost  to  the  Arctic 
ocean ;  and  presenting  a  corresponding  chain  to  tliat  of  the 
Andes  in  tlio  southern  h<Mnisphere.  This  vast  ranac  has 
acquired  from  its  rugged  and  broken  cliaractor,  and  its  sum- 
mits of  nnl-,(l  granite,  the  ai)pellation  of  tlie  Hocky  mountnins, 
a  name  by  no  means  distinctive,  as  all  elevated  ranges  are 
rocky.  Among  the  early  explorers  it  was  knonn  as  the  range 
of  Chippewyan  niuunfains,  and  this  Indian  name  is  the  one  it 
is  likely  to  retain  in  poetic  usage.     Rising  from  the  midst  of 


264 


ELEVATFD    I'LAIN.'<. 


J'    I 


vast  plains  and  prairi«'s,  traversinjf  several  doyrces  of  latiiiido, 
dividing  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific,  and  seem- 
ing to  bind  with  diverging  ridges  the  level  regions  on  its 
flanks,  it  has  been  figuratively  termed  the  backbone  of  the 
northern  continent. 

The  Rocky  mountains  do  not  j)resent  a  range  of  uniforrn 
elevation,  but  rather  groups  and  occasionally  detached  peaks. 
Though  some  of  these  rise  to  the  region  of  perpetual  snows, 
and  arc  upwards  of  eleven  thousand  feet  in  real  altitude,  yel 
their  height  from  their  immediate  bases  is  not  so  great  as  might 
be  imagined,  as  they  swell  up  from  elevated  plains,  several 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.     These  plains  are 
often  of  a  desolate  sterility ;  mere  sandy  wastes,  formed  of 
the  detritus  of  the  granite  heights,  destitute  of  trees  and  herb- 
age, scorched  by  the  ardent  and  reflected  rays  of  the  summer's 
sun,  and,  in  winter,  swept  by  chilling  blasts  from  the  snow  clad 
mountains.     Such  is  a  great  part  of  that  vast  region  extending 
north  and  south  along  the  mountains,  several  hundred  miles 
in  width,  which  has  not  improperly  been  termed  the  Great 
American  Desert.     It  is  a  region  that  almost  discourages  all 
hope  of  ctdtivation,  and  can  only  be  traversed  with  safety  by 
keeping  near  the  streams  which  intersect  it.     Extensive  plains 
likewise  occur  among  the  higher  regions  of  the  mountains, 
of  considerable  fertility.     Indeed,  these  lofty  plats  of  table  land 
seem  to  form  a  pecidiar  feature  in  the  American  continents. 
Some  occur  among  the  Cordilleras  of  the  Andes,  where  cities, 
and  towns,  and  cidtivated  farms,  are  to  be  seen  eight  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  Rocky  mountains,  as  we  have  already  observed,  occur 
sometimes  singly  or  in  groups,  and  occasionally  in  collateral 
ridges.  Between  these  are  deep  valleys,  with  small  streams 
winding  through  them,  which  find  their  way  into  the  lower 


1: 


THE    IIAPrV    HUNTINO    0R0UND8. 


265 


1  lutinulr, 
nd  HC'cin- 
ns  on  its 
10  of  the 

f  uniform 

ed  peaks. 

al  snows, 

litude,  yet 

L  as  mi^'ht 

s,  several 

plains  are 

formed  of 

and  lierb- 

summer's 

snow  clad 

extending 

red  miles 

le  Great 

uraj^es  all 

safety  by 

ive  plains 

lountains, 

ible  land 

ontinents. 

re  cities, 

thousand 

h1,  occur 
:ollateral 
streams 
"lie  lower 


plains,  augmenting  as  they  proceed,  and  idtiinately  discharging 
themselves  into  those  vast  rivers,  which  traverse  the  prairies 
like  great  arteries,  and  drain  the  continent. 

While  the  granitic  summits  of  the  Rocky  mountains  arc 
bleak  and  bare,  many  of  the  inferior  ridges  are  scantily  clothed 
with  scrubbed  pines,  oaks,  cedar  and  furze.  Various  parts  of 
the  mountains  also  bear  traces  of  volcanic  action.  Some  of  the 
interior  valleys  are  strewed  with  scoria  and  broken  stones, 
evidently  of  volcanic  origin  ;  the  surromuling  rocks  bear  the 
like  character,  and  vestiges  of  extinguished  craters  are  to  be 
seen  on  the  elevated  heights. 

We  have  already  noticed  the  superstitious  feelings  with 
which  the  Indians  regard  the  Black  hills  ;  but  this  immense 
range  of  mountains,  which  divides  all  that  they  know  of  the 
world,  and  gives  birth  to  such  mighty  rivers,  is  still  more  an 
object  of  awe  and  veneration.  They  call  it  "  The  crest  of  the 
world,"  and  think  that  Wacondah,  or  the  master  of  life,  as  they 
designate  the  Supreme  Being,  has  his  residence  among  these 
aerial  heights.  The  tribes  on  the  eastern  prairies  call  them 
the  mountains  of  the  setting  sun.  Some  of  them  place  the 
"  happy  hunting  grounds,"  their  ideal  paradise,  among  the 
recesses  of  these  mountains ;  but  say  that  they  are  invisible 
to  living  men.  Here  also  is  the  "  Land  of  Souls,"  in  which 
are  the  "  towns  of  the  free  and  generous  spirits,"  where  those 
who  have  pleased  the  master  of  life  wliile  living,  enjoy  after 
death  all  manner  of  delights. 

Wonders  are  told  of  these  mountains  by  the  distant  tribes, 
whose  warriors  or  hunters  have  ever  wandered  in  their  neigh- 
borhood. It  is  thought  by  some  that,  after  death,  they  will 
have  to  travel  to  these  mountains  and  ascend  one  of  their 
highest  and  most  rugged  peaks,  among  rocks  and  snows  and 

tumbling  torrents.     After  many  moons  of  painful  toil  they  will 

23 


266 


TOWNS    OF   THE    GENEROUS    SPIRITS. 


reach  the  summit,  from  whence  they  will  have  a  view  over  the 
land  of  souls.  There  they  will  see  the  happy  hunting  grounds, 
with  the  souls  of  the  brave  and  ,';ood  living  hi  tents  in  green 
meadows,  by  bright  running  streams,  or  hunting  the  herds  of 
buffalo,  and  elks,  and  deer,  which  have  been  slain  on  earth. 
There,  too,  they  will  see  the  villages  or  towns  of  the  free  and 
generous  spirits  brightening  in  the  midst  of  delicious  prairies. 
If  they  have  acquitted  themselves  well  while  living,  they 
will  be  permitted  to  descend  and  enjoy  this  hapi  y  country ; 
if  otherwise,  they  will  but  be  tantalized  with  this  prospect  of 
it,  and  then  hurled  back  from  the  mountain,  to  wander  about 
the  sandy  plains,  and  endure  the  eternal  pangs  of  unsatislied 
thirst  and  hunger. 


HAUNTS    OF   THE    CROW    INDlA^^^. 


267 


1  over  the 
grounds, 
in  green 
herds  of 

on  earth. 

!  free  and 
prairies. 

ng,  they 
country ; 

ospect  of 

Jer  about 

nsatisfied 


CHAPTER   XXVIII. 

Region  op  the  Crow  Indians — scouts  on  the  lookout — visit  from 

A    CREW    OP    HARD     RIDERS A    CrOW    CAMP — PRESENTS     TO    THE     CrOW 

CHIEF BARGAINING CrOW  BULLIES RoSE  AMONG  HIS  InDIAN   FRIENDS 

PARTING     WITH     THE    CrOWS — PERPLEXITIES     AMONG     THE     MOUNTAINS 

— MORE    OP  THE  CrOWS — EQUESTRIAN  CHILDREN — SEARCH  AFTER  8TRAQ- 
GLERS. 

The  travellers  had  now  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mountain 
regions  infested  by  the  Crow  Indians,  These  restless  ma- 
rauders, as  has  already  been  observed,  are  apt  to  be  continually 
on  the  prowl  about  the  skirts  of  the  mountains ;  and  even 
when  encamped  in  some  deep  and  secluded  glen,  they  keep 
scouts  upon  the  clifls  and  promontories,  who,  unseen  them- 
selves, can  discern  every  living  thing  that  moves  over  the  sub- 
jacent plains  and  valleys.  It  was  not  to  be  expected  that  our 
travellers  could  pass  unseen  through  a  region  thus  vigilantly 
centinelled ;  accordingly,  in  the  edge  of  the  evening,  not  long 
after  they  had  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  Big  Horn  Sierra, 
a  couple  of  wild-looking  beings,  scantily  clad  in  skins,  but 
well  armed,  and  mounted  on  horses  as  wild-looking  as  them- 
selves, were  seen  approaching  with  great  caution  from  among 
the  rocks.  They  might  have  been  mistaken  for  two  of  the 
evil  spirits  of  the  mountains  so  formidable  in  Indian  fable. 

Rose  was  immediately  sent  out  to  hold  a  parley  with  them, 
and  invite  them  to  the  camp.     They  proved  to  be  two  scouts 


im- 


268 


MOUNTAIN    SCAMPERERS A    CROW    CAMP. 


from  the  same  band  that  had  been  tracked  for  some  days  past, 
and  which  was  now  encamped  at  some  distance  in  the  folds 
of  the  mountain.  They  were  easily  prevailed  upon  to  come 
to  the  camp,  where  they  were  well  received,  and,  after  remain- 
ing there  until  late  in  the  evening,  departed  to  make  a  report 
of  all  they  had  seen  and  experienced,  to  their  companions. 

The  following  day  had  scarce  dawned,  when  a  troop  of 
these  wild  mountain  scamperers  came  galloping  with  whoops 
and  yells  into  the  camp,  bringing  an  invitation  from  their  chief 
for  the  white  men  to  visit  him.  The  tents  were  accordingly 
struck,  the  horses  laden,  and  the  party  were  soon  on  the 
march.  The  Crow  horsemen,  as  they  escorted  them,  appeared 
to  take  a  pride  in  shewing  off  their  equestrian  skill  ard  hardi- 
hood ;  careering  at  full  speed  on  their  half-savage  steeds,  and 
dashing  among  rocks  and  crags,  and  up  and  down  the  most 
rugged  and  dangerous  places  with  perfect  ease  and  unconcern. 

A  ride  of  sixteen  miles  brought  them,  in  the  afternoon,  in 
sight  of  the  Crow  camp.  It  was  composed  of  leathern  tents 
pitched  in  a  meadow  on  the  border  of  a  small  clear  stream 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  A  great  number  of  horses  were 
grazing  in  the  vicinity,  many  of  them  doubtless  captured  in 
maraudmg  excursions. 

The  Crow  chieftain  came  forth  to  meet  his  guests  with 
great  professions  of  friendship,  and  conducted  them  to  his 
tents,  pointing  out,  by  the  way,  a  convenient  place  where  tliey 
might  fix  their  camp.  No  sooner  had  they  done  so,  than 
Mr.  Hunt  opened  some  of  the  packages  and  made  the  chief  a 
present  of  a  scarlet  blanket,  and  a  quantity  of  powder  and 
ball ;  he  gave  him  also  some  knives,  trinkets  and  tobacco  to 
be  distributed  among  his  warriors,  with  all  which  the  grim 
potentate  seemed  for  the  time,  well  pleased.  As  the  Crows, 
however,  were  reputed  to  be  perfidious  in  the  extreme,  and 


DEALINGS    WITH    THE    CROWS. 


269 


as  errant  freebooters  as  the  bird  after  which  they  were  so 
worthily  named ;  and  as  their  general  feelings  towards  the 
whites  were  known  to  be  by  no  means  friendly,  the  inter- 
course with  them  was  conducted  with  great  circumspection. 

The  following  day  was  passed  in  trading  with  the  Crows 
for  buffalo  robes  and  skins,  and  in  bartering  galled  and  jaded 
horses  for  others  that  were  in  good  condition.  Some  of  the 
men  also,  purchased  horses  on  their  own  account,  so  that  the 
number  now  amounted  to  one  hundred  and  twenty-one,  mo^t 
of  them  sound  and  active,  and  fit  for  mountain  service. 

Their  wants  being  supplied  they  ceased  all  further  traffic, 
much  to  the  dissatisfaction  of  the  Crows,  who  became  ex- 
tremely urgent  to  continue  the  trade,  and,  finding  their  impor- 
tunities of  no  avail,  assumed  an  insolent  and  menacing  tone. 
All  this  was  attributed  by  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  associates,  to  the 
perfidious  instigations  of  Rose  the  interpreter,  who  they  sus- 
pected of  the  desire  to  foment  ill-will  between  them  and  the 
savages,  for  the  promotion  of  his  nefarious  plans.  M'Jjellan, 
with  his  usual  trunchant  mode  of  dealing  out  justice,  resolved 
to  shoot  the  desperado  on  the  spot  in  case  of  any  outbreak. 
Nothing  of  the  kind,  however,  occurred.  The  Crows  were 
probably  daunted  by  tlie  resolute,  though  quiet,  demeanor  of 
the  white  men,  and  the  constant  vigilance  and  armed  prepara- 
tion which  they  maintained  ;  and  Rose,  if  he  really  still  har- 
bored his  knavish  designs,  must  have  perceived  th;it  they 
were  suspected,  and,  if  attempted  to  be  carried  into  effect, 
might  bring  ruin  on  his  own  head. 

The  next  morning,  bright  and  early,  Mr.  Hunt  proposed  to 

resume  his  journeying.     He  took  a  ceremonious  leave  of  the 

Crow  chieftain,  and  his  vagabond  warriors,  and,  according  to 

previous  arrangements,  consigned  to  their  cherishing  friendship 

and  fraternal  adoption,  their  worthy  confederate,  Rose ;  who, 

23* 


I  ■■■H 


270 


AN    ADOPTED    CROW. 


having  figured  among  the  water  pirates  of  the  Mississippi, 
was  well  fitted  to  rise  to  distinction  among  the  land  pirates 
of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

It  is  proper  to  add  that  the  ruffian  was  well  received  among 
the  tribe  and  appeared  to  be  perfectly  satisfied  with  the  com- 
promise he  had  made  ;  feeling  much  more  at  his  ease  among 
savages  than  among  white  men.  It  is  outcasts  from  civiliza- 
tion, fugitives  from  justice,  and  heartless  desperadoes  of  this 
kind,  who  sow  the  seeds  of  enmity  and  bitterness  among  the 
unfortunate  tribes  of  the  frontier.  There  is  no  enemy  so 
implacable  against  a  country  or  a  commmnty  as  one  of  its 
own  people  who  has  rendered  himself  an  alien  by  his  crimes. 

Right  glad  to  be  relieved  from  this  treacherous  companion, 
Mr.  Hunt  pursued  his  course  along  the  skirts  of  the  mountain 
in  a  southern  direction,  seeking  for  some  practicable  defile 
by  which  he  might  pass  through  it ;  none  such  presented, 
however,  in  the  course  of  fifteen  miles,  and  he  encamped  on 
a  small  stream,  still  on  the  outskirts.  The  green  meadows 
which  border  these  mountain  streams  are  generally  well 
stocked  with  game,  and  the  hunters  soon  killed  several  fat 
elks,  which  supplied  the  camp  with  fresh  meat.  In  the  eve- 
ning the  travellers  were  surprised  by  an  unwelcome  visit  from 
several  Crows  belonging  to  a  different  band  from  that  which 
they  had  recently  left,  and  who  said  their  camp  was  among 
the  mountains.  The  consciousness  of  being  environed  by 
such  dangerous  neighbors,  and  of  being  still  within  the  range 
of  Rose  and  his  fellow  ruffians,  obliged  the  party  to  be  con- 
tinually on  the  alert  and  to  maintain  weary  vigils  throughout 
the  night,  lest  they  should  be  robbed  of  their  horses. 

On  the  third  of  September,  finding  that  the  mountain  still 
stretched  onwards,  presenting  a  continued  barrier,  they  en- 
deavored to  force  a  passage  to  the  westward,  but  soon  became 


: 


AN   UNEXPECTED   VISIT. 


271 


ssissippi, 
d  pirates 

!d  among 
the  com- 
ie  anionji 

civiliza- 
s  of  this 
nong  the 
nemy  so 
ne  of  its 
i  crimes, 
mpanion, 
mountain 
)le  defile 
resented, 
mped  on 
neadows 
lly  well 
veral  fat 
the  eve- 
isit  from 
at  which 
s  among 
oned  by 
le  range 

be  con- 
roughout 

tain  still 
hey  en- 
became 


entangled  among  rocks  and  precipices  which  set  all  their 
efforts  at  defiance.  The  mountain  seemed  for  the  most  part 
rugged,  bare,  and  sterile  ;  yet  here  and  there  it  was  clothed 
AN'ith  pines,  and  with  shrubs  and  flowering  plants,  some  of 
which  were  in  bloom.  In  toiling  among  these  weary  places, 
their  thirst  became  excessive,  for  no  water  was  to  be  met  with. 
Numbers  of  the  men  wandered  off  into  rocky  dells  and  ravines 
in  hopes  of  finding  some  brook  or  fountain ;  some  of  whom 
lost  their  way  and  did  not  rejoin  the  main  party. 

After  half  a  day  of  painful  and  fruitless  scrambling,  Mr. 
Hunt  gave  up  the  attempt  to  penetrate  in  this  direction,  and, 
returning  to  the  little  stream  on  the  skirts  of  the  mountain, 
pitched  his  tents  within  six  miles  of  his  encampment  oi  he 
preceding  night.  He  now  ordered  that  signals  should  be 
made  for  the  stragglers  in  quest  of  water,  but  the  night  passed 
away  without  their  return. 

The  next  morning,  to  their  surprise  Rose  made  his  appear- 
ance at  the  camp,  accompanied  by  some  of  his  Crow  associ- 
ates. His  unwelcome  visit  revived  their  suspicions,  but  he 
announced  himself  as  a  messenger  of  good-will  from  the  chief, 
who,  finding  they  had  taken  a  wrong  road,  had  sent  Rose  and 
his  companions  to  guide  them  to  a  nearer  and  better  one 
across  the  mountain. 

Having  no  choice,  being  themselves  utterly  at  fault,  they 
set  out  imder  this  questionable  escort.  They  had  not  gone 
far  before  they  fell  in  with  the  whole  party  of  Crows,  who, 
they  now  found,  were  going  the  same  road  with  themselves. 
The  two  cavalcades  of  white  and  red  men,  therefore,  pushed 
on  together,  and  presented  a  wild  and  picturesque  spectacle, 
as,  equipped  with  various  weapons  and  in  various  garbs,  with 
trains  of  pack  horses,  they  wound  in  long  lines  through  the 


: 


272 


AN    INFANT    JOCKEY. 


rugged  defiles,  and  up  and  down  the  crags  and  steeps  of  the 
mountain. 

The  travellers  had  again  an  opportunity  to  see  and  admire 
the  equestrian  habitudes  and  address  of  this  hard-riding  tribe. 
They  were  all  mounted,  man,  woman  and  child,  for  the  Crows 
have  horses  in  abundance,  so  that  no  one  goes  on  foot.  The 
children  are  perfect  imps  on  horseback.  Among  them  was 
one  bo  young  that  he  could  not  yet  speak.  He  was  tied  on  a 
coh  of  two  years  old,  but  managed  the  reins  as  i^  by  instinct, 
and  plied  the  whip  with  true  Indian  prodigality.  Mr.  Hunt 
inquired  the  age  of  this  infant  jockey  and  was  answered  that 
"  he  had  seen  two  winters." 

This  is  almost  realizing  the  fable  of  the  centaurs ;  nor  can 
we  wonder  at  the  equestrian  adroitness  of  these  savages,  who 
are  thus  in  a  manner  cradled  in  the  saddle,  and  become  in 
infancy  almost  identilied  with  the  animal  they  bestride. 

The  mountain  defiles  were  exceedingly  rough  and  broken, 
and  the  travelling  painful  to  the  burthened  horses.  The  party, 
therefore,  proceeded  but  slowly,  and  were  gradually  left  be- 
hind by  the  band  of  Crows,  who  had  taken  the  lead.  It  is 
more  than  probable  that  Mr.  Hunt  loitered  in  his  course,  to 
get  rid  of  such  doubtful  fellow-travellers.  Certain  it  is  that 
he  felt  a  sensation  of  relief  as  he  saw  the  whole  crew,  the 
renegade  Rose,  and  all,  disappear  among  the  windings  of  the 
mountain,  and  heard  the  last  yelp  of  the  savages  die  away  in 
the  distance. 

When  they  were  fairly  ought  of  sight,  and  out  of  hearing, 
he  encamped  on  the  head  waters  of  the  little  stream  of  the 
preceding  day,  having  come  about  sixteen  miles.  Here  he 
remained  all  the  succeeding  day,  as  well  to  give  time  for  the 
Crows  to  get  in  the  advance,  as  for  the  stragglers,  who  had 


SEARCH  AFTER  STRAGGLERS. 


273 


wandered  away  in  quest  of  water  two  days  previously,  to 
rejoin  the  camp.  Indeed,  considerable  uneasiness  began  to 
be  felt  concerning  these  men  lest  they  should  become  utterly 
bewildered  in  the  defiles  of  the  mountains,  or  should  fall  into 
the  hands  of  some  marauding  band  of  savages.  Some  of  the 
most  experienced  hunters  were  sent  in  search  of  them,  others, 
in  the  meantime,  employed  themselves  in  hunting.  The 
narrow  valley  in  which  they  encamped  being  watered  by  a 
rimning  stream,  yielded  fresh  pasturage,  and,  though  in  the 
heart  of  the  Big  Horn  mountains,  was  well  stocked  with  buf- 
falo. Several  of  these  were  killed,  as  also  a  grizzly  bear. 
In  the  evening,  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties,  the  stragglers 
made  their  appearance,  and  provisions  being  in  abundance, 
there  was  hearty  good  cheer  in  the  camp. 


t.;^ 


i'(* 


274 


A   WANDERING    HAND. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Mountain  glens — wandering  band  op  savages — anecdotes  of  Sues- 

MONIES     AND     FlATHEADS ROOT     DIGGERS — THEIR      SOLITARY     LURKING 

HABITS GNOMES    OF  THP    MOUNTAINS WiND    RIVER — SCARCITY  OF    FOOD 

ALTERATION    OF    ROUTE THE    PiLOT    KnOBS    OR    TeTONS — BRANCH    OP 

THE  COLERADO— HUNTING  CAMP. 


Resuming  their  course  on  the  following  morning,  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  companions  continued  on  westward  through  a  rugged 
region  of  hills  and  rocks,  but  diversified  in  many  places  by 
grassy  little  glens,  with  springs  of  water,  bright  sparkling 
brooks,  clumps  of  pine  trees,  and  a  profusion  of  flowering 
plants,  which  were  in  full  bloom,  although  the  weather  was 
frosty.  These  beautiful  and  verdant  recesses,  running  through 
and  softening  the  rugged  mountains,  were  cheering  and  re- 
freshing to  the  way  worn  travellers. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  as  they  were  entangled  in  a 
defile,  they  beheld  a  small  band  of  savages,  as  wild  looking  as 
the  surrounding  scenery,  who  reconnoitred  them  warily  from 
the  rocks  before  they  ventured  to  advance.  Some  of  them 
were  mounted  on  horses  rudely  caparisoned,  with  bridles  or 
halters  of  buffalo  hide,  one  end  trailing  after  them  on  the 
ground.  They  proved  to  be  a  mixed  party  of  Flatheads  and 
Slioshonies,  or  Snakes ;  and  as  these  tribes  will  be  frequently 
mentioned  in  the  course  of  this  work,  we  shall  give  a  few 
introductory  particulars  concerning  them. 


SNAKES    AND    FLATHEADS. 


275 


s  or  Snos- 

tV  LURKING 
ITY  OF  FOOD 
-BRANCH    OP 


Mr.  Hunt 
1  a  rugged 
places  by 
sparkling 
flowering 
lather  was 
kg  through 
g  and  re- 

gled  in  a 
coking  as 
arily  from 
of  them 
jridles  or 
m  on  the 
leads  and 
"requently 
ive  a  few 


f 


The  Flatheads  in  question  are  not  to  be  confounded  with 
those  of  the  name  who  dwell  about  the  lower  waters  of  the 
Columbia ;  neither  do  they  flatten  their  heads,  as  the  others 
do.  They  inhabit  the  banks  of  a  river  on  the  west  side  of  the 
mountains,  and  arc  described  as  simple,  honest,  and  hospitable. 
Like  all  people  of  similar  character,  whether  civilized  or  sa- 
vage, they  are  prone  to  be  imposed  upon  ;  and  are  especially 
maltreated  by  the  ruthless  Blackfeet,  who  harass  them  in  their 
villages,  steal  their  horses  by  night,  or  openly  carry  them  ofl" 
in  the  face  of  day,  without  provoking  pursuit  or  retaliation. 

The  Shoshonies  are  a  branch  of  the  once  powerful  and  pros- 
perous tribe  of  the  Snakes,  who  possessed  a  glorious  hunting 
country  about  the  upper  forks  of  the  Missouri,  abounding  in 
beaver  and  buflfalo.  Their  hunting  ground  was  occasionally 
invaded  by  the  Blackfeet,  but  the  Snakes  battled  bravely  for 
their  domains,  and  a  long  and  bloody  feud  existed,  with  variable 
success.  At  length  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  extending 
their  trade  into  the  interior,  had  dealings  with  the  Blackfeet, 
who  were  nearest  to  them,  and  supplied  them  with  fire-arms. 
The  Snakes,  who  occasionally  traded  with  the  Spaniards,  en- 
deavored, but  in  vain,  to  obtain  similar  weapons  ;  the  Spanish 
traders  wisely  refused  to  arm  them  so  formidably.  The  Black- 
feet had  now  a  vast  advantage,  and  soon  dispossessed  the 
poor  Snakes  of  their  favorite  hunting  grounds,  their  land  of 
plenty,  and  drove  them  from  place  to  place,  until  they  Avere 
fain  to  take  refuge  in  the  a\  ildest  and  most  desolate  recesses 
of  the  Rocky  mountains.  Even  here  they  are  subjected  to 
occasional  visits  from  their  implacable  foes,  as  long  as  they 
have  horses,  or  any  other  property  to  tempt  the  plunderer. 
Thus  by  degrees  the  Snakes  have  become  a  scattered,  broken 
spirited,  impoverished  people ;  keeping  about  lonely  rivers  and 
mountain  streams,  and  subsisting  chiefly  upon  fish.     Such'of 


276 


DIGOEUS    AND    SHOSllONIES. 


them  as  still  possess  horses,  and  occasionally  figure  as  hunters, 
are  called  Shoshonies ;  but  there  is  another  class,  the  most 
abject  and  forlorn,  who  are  called  Shuckers,  or  more  commonly 
Diggers  and  Root  eaters.  These  are  a  shy,  secret,  solitary 
race,  who  keep  in  the  most  retired  parts  of  the  mountains, 
lurking  like  gnomes  in  caverns  and  clefts  of  the  rocks,  and 
subsisting  in  a  great  measure  on  the  roots  of  the  earth.  Some- 
times, in  passing  through  a  solitary  mountain  valley,  the  tra- 
veller comes  perchance  upon  the  bleeding  carcass  of  a  deer  or 
buffalo  that  has  just  been  slain.  He  looks  round  in  vain  for 
the  hunte  ;  the  whole  landscape  is  lifeless  and  deserted :  at 
length  he  perceives  a  thread  of  smoke,  curling  up  from  among 
the  crags  and  cliffs,  and  scrambling  to  the  place,  linds  some 
forlorn  and  skulking  brood  of  diggers,  terrified  at  being  dis- 
covered. 

The  Shoshonies,  however,  who,  as  has  been  observed,  have 
still  "horse  to  ride  and  weapon  to  wear,"  are  somewhat  bolder 
in  their  spirit,  and  more  open  and  wide  in  their  wanderings. 
In  the  autumn,  when  salmon  disappear  from  the  rivers,  and 
hunger  begins  to  pinch,  they  even  venture  down  into  their 
ancient  hunting  grounds,  to  make  a  foray  among  the  buffaloes. 
In  this  perilous  enterprise  they  are  occasionally  joined  by  the 
Flatheads,  the  persecutions  of  the  Blackfeet  having  produced 
a  close  alliance  and  co-operation  between  these  luckless  and 
maltreated  tribes.  Still,  notwithstanding  their  imited  force, 
every  step  they  take  within  the  debateable  ground,  is  taken 
in  fear  and  trembling,  and  with  the  utmost  precaution  :  and  an 
Indian  trader  assures  us,  that  he  has  seen  at  least  five  hundred 
of  them,  armed  and  equipped  for  action,  and  keeping  watch 
upon  the  hill  tops,  while  about  fifty  were  hunting  in  the  prairie. 
Their  excursions  are  brief  and  hurried ;  as  soon  as  they  have 
collected  and  jerked  sufficient  buffalo  meat  for  winter  provs- 


s  hunters, 
the  most 
:ommoiily 
t,  solitary 
nountains, 
ocks,  and 
I.  Some- 
',  the  tra- 
a  deer  or 
a  vain  lor 
serted :  at 
)m  among 
nds  some 
jeing  dis- 

rved,  have 
lat  bolder 
mderings. 
vers,  and 
into  their 
buffaloes, 
ed  by  tlie 
produced 
kless  and 
ed  force, 
is  taken 
:  and  an 
hundred 
ng  watch 
e  prairie, 
hey  have 
er  provs- 


ENCAMPMENT    ON    THE    MOUNTAINS. 


277 


\ 


sions,  they  pack  their  horses,  abandon  the  dangerous  hunting 
grounds,  and  hasten  back  to  the  mountains,  happy  il'  they  have 
not  the  terrible  Blackfeet  rattling  after  them. 

►Such  a  confederate  band  of  Shoshonies  and  Flatheads,  was 
the  one  met  by  our  travellers.  It  was  bound  on  a  visit  to  the 
Arapahocs,  a  tribe  inhabiting  the  banks  of  the  Nebraska. 
They  were  armed  to  the  best  of  their  scanty  means,  and  aoiiw 
of  the  Shoshonies  had  bucklers  of  buffalo  hide,  adorned  with 
feathers  and  leathern  fringes,  and  which  have  a  charmed  virtue 
in  their  eyes,  from  having  been  prepared,  with  mystic  cere- 
monies by  their  conjurors. 

In  company  with  this  wandering  band  our  travellers  pro- 
ceeded all  day.  In  the  evening  they  encamped  near  to  each 
other  in  a  defile  of  the  mountains,  on  the  borders  of  a  stream 
running  north,  and  falling  into  Bighorn  river.  In  the  vicinity 
of  the  camp,  they  found  gooseberries,  strawberries  and  cur- 
rants, in  great  abundance.  The  defile  bore  traces  of  having 
been  a  thoroughfare  for  countless  herds  of  buffaloes,  though 
not  one  was  to  be  seen.  The  hunters  succeeded  in  killing  an 
elk  and  several  black-tailed  deer. 

They  were  now  in  the  bosom  of  the  second  Bighorn  ridge, 
with  another  lofty  and  snow-crowned  mountain,  full  in  view 
to  the  west.  Fifteen  miles  of  western  course,  brought  them, 
on  the  following  day,  down  into  an  intervening  plain,  well 
stocked  with  buffalo.  Here  the  Snakes  and  Flatheads  joined 
with  the  white  hunters  in  a  successful  hunt,  that  soon  filled 
the  camp  with  provisions. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  September,  the  travellers 

parted  company  with  their  Indian  friends,  and  continued  on 

their  course  to  the  west.     A  march  of  thirty  miles  brought 

ihem,  in  the  evening,  to  the  banks  of  a  rapid  and  beautifully 

clear  stream  about  a  hundred  yards  wide.     It  is  the  north  fork 

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278 


WIND    RIVER. 


or  branch  of  the  Bighorn  river,  but  bears  its  peculiar  name 
of  the  Wind  river,  from  being  subject  in  the  winter  season  to 
a  continued  blast  which  sweeps  its  banks  and  prevents  the 
snow  from  lying  on  them.  This  blast  is  said  to  be  caused 
by  a  narrow  gap  or  funnel  in  the  mountains  through  which 
tlie  river  forces  its  way  between  perpendicular  precipices, 
resembling  cut  rocks. 

This  river  gives  its  name  to  a  whole  range  of  mountains 
consisting  of  three  parallel  chains,  eighty  miles  in  length,  and 
about  twenty  or  twenty-five  broad.  One  of  its  peaks  is  proba- 
bly fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  being  one 
of  the  highest  of  the  the  Rocky  Sierra.  Those  mountains 
give  rise,  not  merely  to  the  Wind  or  Bighorn  river,  but  to 
several  branches  of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Missouri  on 
the  east,  and  of  the  Columbia  and  Colorado  on  the  west ;  thus 
dividing  the  sources  of  these  mighty  streams. 

For  five  succeeding  days,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  continued 
up  the  course  of  the  Wind  river,  to  the  distance  of  about 
eighty  miles,  crossing  and  recrossing  it,  according  to  its  wind- 
ings, and  the  nature  of  its  banks  ;  sometimes  passing  through 
valleys,  at  other  times  scrambling  over  rocks  and  hills.  The 
country  in  general  Avas  destitute  of  trees,  but  they  passed 
through  groves  of  wormwood,  eight  and  ten  feet  in  height, 
which  they  used  occasionally  for  fuel,  and  they  met  with  large 
quantities  of  wild  flax. 

The  mountains  were  destitute  of  game  ;  they  came  in  sight 
of  two  grizzly  bears,  but  could  not  get  near  enough  for  a  shot ; 
provisions,  therefore,  began  to  be  scanty.  They  saw  large 
flights  of  the  kind  of  thrush  commonly  called  the  robin,  and 
many  smaller  birds  of  migratory  species ;  but  the  hills  in 
general  appeared  lonely  and  with  few  signs  of  animal  life. 
On  the  evening  of  the  14th  September,  they  encamped  on  the 


LANDMARKS    OF    THE    COLUMBIA. 


279 


ight, 

large 

sight 

I  shot ; 

I  large 

and 


Is 


in 


life. 

the 


forks  of  the  Wind,  or  Bighorn  river.     The  largest  ot  these 
forks  came  from  the  range  of  Wind  river  monntains. 

The  hunters  who  served  as  guides  to  the  party  in  this  part 
of  their  route,  had  assured  Mr.  Hunt  that,  by  following  up 
Wind  river,  and  crossing  a  single  mountain  ridge,  he  would 
come  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia.  The  scarcity 
of  game,  however,  which  already  had  been  felt  to  a  pinching 
degree,  and  which  threatened  them  with  famine  among  the 
sterile  heights  which  lay  before  ihem,  admonished  them  to 
change  their  course.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  make 
for  a  stream,  which,  they  were  informed,  passed  through  the 
neighboring  mountains,  to  the  south  of  west,  on  the  grassy 
banks  of  which  it  was  probable  they  would  meet  with  buffalo. 
Accordingly,  about  three  o'clock  on  the  following  day,  meet- 
ing with  a  beaten  Indian  road  which  lead  in  the  proper 
direction,  they  struck  into  it  turning  their  backs  upon  Wind 
river. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  they  came  to  a  height  that  com- 
manded an  almost  boundless  prospect.  Here  one  of  the 
guides  paused,  and,  after  considering  the  vast  landscape  atten- 
tively, pointed  to  three  mountain  peaks  glistening  with  snow, 
which  rose,  he  said,  above  a  fork  of  Columbia  river.  They 
were  hailed  by  the  travellers  with  that  joy  with  which  a 
beacon  on  a  seashore  is  hailed  by  mariners  after  a  long  and 
dangerous  voyage.  It  is  true  there  was  many  a  weary  league 
to  be  traversed  before  they  should  reach  these  landmarks,  for, 
allowing  for  their  evident  height,  and  the  extreme  transpa- 
rency of  the  atmosphere,  they  could  not  be  much  less  than  a 
hundred  miles  distant.  Even  after  reaching  them,  there  would 
yet  remain  hundreds  of  miles  of  their  journey  to  be  accom- 
plished. All  these  matters  were  forgotten  in  the  joy  at  seeing 
the  first  landmarks  of  the  Columbia,  that  river  which  formed 


280 


SPANISH    RIVER. 


it  ' 


the  bourne  of  the  expedition.  These  remarkable  peaks  are 
known  to  some  travellers  as  the  Tetons ;  as  they  had  been 
guiding  points  for  many  days,  to  Mr.  Hunt,  he  gave  them 
the  name  of  the  Pilot  Knobs. 

The  travellers  continued  their  course  to  the  south  of  west 
for  about  forty  miles,  through  a  region  so  elevated  that  patches 
of  snow  lay  on  the  highest  summits,  and  on  the  northern 
declivities.  At  length  they  came  to  the  desired  stream,  the 
object  of  their  search,  the  waters  of  which  flowed  to  the  Avest. 
It  was,  in  fact,  a  branch  of  the  Colorado,  which  falls  into  the 
gulf  of  Calafornia,  and  had  received  from  ihe  hunters  the 
name  of  Spanish  river,  from  information  given  by  the  Indians, 
that  Spaniards  resided  upon  its  lower  waters. 

The  aspect  of  this  river  and  its  vicinity  was  cheering  to  the 
way  worn  and  hungry  travellers.  Its  banks  were  green,  and 
there  were  grassy  valleys  running  from  it  in  various  directions, 
into  the  heart  of  the  rugged  mountains,  with  herds  of  buffalo 
quietly  grazing.  The  hunters  sallied  forth  with  keen  alacrity, 
and  soon  returned  laden  with  provisions. 

In  this  part  of  the  mountains  Mr.  Hunt  met  with  three 
different  kinds  of  gooseberries.  The  common  purple,  on  a  low 
and  very  thorny  bush ;  a  yellow  kind,  of  an  excellent  flavor, 
growing  on  a  stalk  free  from  thorns  ;  and  a  deep  purple,  of  the 
size  and  taste  of  our  winter  grape,  with  a  thorny  stalk.  There 
were  also  three  kinds  of  currants,  one  very  large  and  Avell 
tasted,  of  a  purple  color,  and  growing  on  a  bush  eight  or  nine 
feet  high.  Another  of  a  yellow  color,  and  of  the  size  and 
taste  of  the  large  red  currant,  the  bush  four  or  five  feet  high ; 
and  the  third  a  beautiful  scarlet,  resembling  the  strawberry  in 
sweetness,  though  rather  insipid,  and  growing  on  a  low  bush. 

On  the  17th,  they  continued  down  the  course  of  the  river, 
making  fifteen  miles  to  the  southwest.     The  river  abounded 


A    HALT    FOR    REPOSE. 


281 


with  geese  and  ducks,  and  there  were  signs  of  its  being  in- 
habited by  beaver  and  otters  :  indeed  they  were  now  approach- 
ing regions  where  these  animals,  the  great  objects  of  the  fur 
trade,   are   said  to  abound.      They  encamped  for  the  niglit 
opposite    the    end   of    a   mountain   in    the   west,  which  was 
probably  the   last  chain  of   the   Rocky  mountains.     On  the 
following  morning  they  abandoned  the  main  course  of  Span- 
ish river,  and  taking  a  northwest  direction   for  eight  miles, 
came  upon  one  of  its  little  tributaries,  issuing  out  of  The  bosom 
of  the  mountains,  and  running  through  green  meadows,  yield- 
ing pasturage  to  herds  of  bullalo.      As  these  were  probably 
the  last  of  that  animal  they  would  meet  with,  they  encamped 
on  the  grassy  banks  of  the  river,  determming  to  spend  several 
days  in  hunting,  so  as   to  be  able  to  jerk  sufficient  meat  to 
supply  them  until  they  should  reach  tlie  waters  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, where  they  trusted  to  find  fish  enough  for  their  sup- 
port.    A  little  repose,  too,  was  necessary  for  both  men  and 
horses,  after  their  rugged  and  incessant  marching ;  having  in 
the  course  of  the  last  seventeen  days,  traversed  two  hundred 
and  sixty  miles  of  rough,  and  in  many  parts,  sterile,  mountain 
country. 


24' 


282 


A    HUNTING    ENCAMPMENT. 


ii 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

A    PLENTIFUI,    HUNTING     CAMP — ShOSHONIE    HUNTERS — HoBACK's     RIVER — 

Mad  river — encampment  near  the  Pilot  Knobs — a  consultation — 
preparations  for  a  perilous  voyage. 

Five  days  were  passed  by  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions 
in  the  fresh  meadows  watered  by  the  bright  little  mountain 
stream.  The  hunters  made  great  havoc  among  the  buffaloes, 
and  brought  in  quantities  of  meat ;  the  voyageurs  busied 
themselves  about  the  fires,  roasting  and  stewing  for  present 
purposes,  or  drying  provisions  for  the  journey ;  the  pack 
horses,  eased  of  their  burthens,  rolled  in  the  grass,  or  grazed 
at  large  about  the  ample  pastures  ;  those  of  the  party  who  had 
no  call  upon  their  services,  indulged  in  the  luxury  of  perfect 
relaxation,  and  the  camp  presented  a  picture  of  rude  feasting 
and  revelry,  of  mingled  bustle  and  repose,  characteristic  of  a 
halt  in  a  fine  hunting  country.  In  the  course  of  one  of  their 
excursions,  some  of  the  men  came  in  sight  of  a  small  party 
of  Indians,  who  instantly  fled  in  great  apparent  consternation. 
They  immediately  returned  to  camp  with  the  intelligence  : 
upon  which  Mr.  Hunt  and  four  others  flung  themselves  upon 
their  horses,  and  sallied  forth  to  reconnoitre.  After  riding 
for  about  eight  miles,  they  came  upon  a  wild  mountain  scene. 
A  lonely  green  valley  stretched  before  them,  surrounded  by 
rugged   heights.      A  herd  of  buffalo  were   careering   madly 


SHOSIIOME    HUNTERS. 


283 


through  it,  with  a  troop  of  savage  horsemen  in  full  chase, 
plying  them  with  their  bows  and  arrows.  The  appearance  of 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  put  an  abrupt  end  to  the  hunt ; 
the  buffalo  scuttled  off  in  one  direction,  while  the  Indians 
plied  their  lashes  and  galloped  off  in  another,  as  fast  as  their 
steeds  could  carry  them.  Mr.  Hunt  gave  chase  ;  there  was 
a  sharp  scamper,  though  of  short  continuance.  Two  young 
Indians,  w  iio  were  indifferently  mounted,  were  soon  overtaken. 
They  were  terribly  frightened,  and  evidently  gave  themselves 
up  for  lost.  By  degrees  their  fears  were  allayed  by  kind 
treatment ;  but  they  continued  to  regard  the  strangers  with  a 
mixture  of  awe  and  wonder ;  for  it  was  the  first  time  in  their 
lives  they  had  ever  seen  a  white  man. 

They  belonged  to  a  party  of  Snakes  who  had  come  across 
the  mountains  on  their  autunmal  hunting  excursion  to  provide 
buffalo  meat  for  the  winter.  Being  persuaded  of  the  peaceable 
intentions  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions,  they  willingly 
conducted  them  to  their  camp.  It  was  pitched  in  a  narrow 
valley  on  the  margin  of  a  stream.  The  tents  were  of  dressed 
skins  ;  some  of  them  fantastically  piiinted  ;  with  horses  grazing 
about  them.  The  approach  of  the  party  caused  a  transient 
alarm  in  the  camp,  for  these  poor  Indians  were  ever  on  the 
look  out  for  cruel  foes.  No  sooner,  however,  did  they  recog- 
nise the  garb  and  complexion  of  their  visiters,  than  their  appre- 
hensions were  changed  into  joy  ;  for  some  of  them  had  dealt 
with  white  men,  and  knew  them  to  be  friendly,  and  to  abound 
with  articles  of  singular  value.  They  welcomed  them,  there- 
fore, to  their  tents,  set  food  before  them  ;  and  entertained 
them  to  the  best  of  their  power. 

They  had  been  successful  in  their  hunt,  and  their  camp 
was  full  of  jerked  buffalo  meat ;  all  of  the  choicest  kind,  and 
extremely  fat.     Mr.  Hunt  purchased  enough  of  them,  in  addi- 


It 


284 


HOBACKS    RIVEU. 


la  'J; 


tioii  to  what  liad  been  killed  and  cured  by  his  own  hunters,  to 
load  all  the  horses  excepting  those  reserved  lor  the  partners 
and  the  wife  of  Pierre  Dorion.  He  found  also  a  few  beaver 
skins  in  their  camp,  for  which  he  paid  liberally,  as  an  induce- 
ment for  theni  to  hunt  for  more  ;  informing  them  that  some  of 
his  party  intended  to  live  among  the  mountains,  and  trade  with 
the  native  hunters  for  their  peltries.  The  poor  Snakes  soon 
comprehended  the  advantages  thus  held  out  to  them,  and  pro- 
mised to  exert  themselves  to  procure  a  quantity  of  beaver  skins 
for  future  tralhc. 

Being  now  well  supplied  with  provisions,  Mr.  Hunt  broke 
up  his  encampment  on  the  24th  of  September,  and  continued 
on  to  the  west.  A  march  of  fiOeen  miles,  over  a  mountain 
ridge,  brought  them  to  a  stream  about  fifty  feet  in  width,  which 
Hoback,  one  of  their  guides,  who  had  trapped  about  the  neigh- 
borhood when  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Henry,  recognised  for  one 
of  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia.  The  travellers  hailed  it 
with  delight,  as  the  first  stream  they  had  encountered  tending 
toward  their  point  of  destination.  They  kept  along  it  for  two 
days,  during  wliich,  from  the  contribution  of  many  rills  and 
brooks,  it  gradually  swelled  into  a  small  river.  As  it  mean- 
dered among  rocks  and  precipices,  they  were  frequently 
obliged  to  ford  it,  and  such  was  its  rapidity,  that  the  men 
were  often  in  danger  of  being  swept  away.  Sometimes  the 
banks  advanced  so  close  upon  the  river,  that  they  were  obliged 
to  scramble  up  and  down  their  rugged  promontories,  or  to  skirt 
along  their  bases  where  there  was  scarce  a  foothold.  Their 
horses  had  dangerous  falls  in  some  of  these  passes.  One  of 
them  rolled,  with  his  load,  nearly  two  hundred  feet  down  hill 
into  the  river,  but  Avithout  receiving  any  injury.  At  length 
they  emerged  from  these  stupendous  defiles,  and  continued  for 
several  miles  along  the  bank  of  Hoback's  river,  through  one 


MAD    RIVER. 


285 


of  the  stem  mountain  valleys.     Here  it  was  joined  by  a  river 
of  greater  magnitude  and  swifter  current,  and  their  united 
waters  swept  off  through  the  valley  in  one  impetuous  stream, 
which,  from  its  rapidity  and  turbulence,  had  received  the 
name  of  Mad  river.     At  the  confluence  of  these  streams  the 
travellers    encamped.      An  important   point  in  their  arduous 
journey  had  been  attained,  a  few  miles  from  their  camp  rose 
the  three  vast  snowy  peaks  called  the  Tetons,  or  the  Pilot 
Knobs,  the  great  landmarks  of  the  Columbia,  by  which  they 
had  shaped  their  course  through  this  mountain  wilderness. 
By  their  feet  flowed  the  rapid  current  of  Mad  river,  a  stream 
ample  enough  to  admit  of  the  navigation  of  canoes,  and  down 
which  they  might  possibly  be  able  to  steer  their  course  to 
the  main  body  of  the  Columbia.     The  Canadian  voyageiirs 
rejoiced  at  the  idea  of  once  more  launching  themselves  upon 
their  favorite  element ;  of  exchanging  their  horses  for  canoes, 
and  of  gliding  down  the  bosoms  of  rivers,  instead  of  scram- 
bling over  the  backs  of  mountains.     Others  of  the  party,  also, 
inexperienced  in  this  kind  of  travelling,  considered  their  toils 
and  troubles  as  drawing  to  a  close.     They  had  conquered  the 
chief  difficulties  of  this  great  rocky  barrier,  and  now  flattered 
themselves  with  the  hope  of  an  easy  downward  course  for  the 
rest  of  their  journey.     Little  did  they  dream  of  the  hardships 
and  perils  by  land  and  water,  which  were  yet  to  be  encoun- 
tered in  the  frightful  wilderness  that  intervened  between  them 
and  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  ! 


END    OF    VOLUME    ONE. 


0. 


